well, i called the local bug store and asked them what size the nut
was and they told me it was 36mm. i want to do this right so i
bought a cheap torque bar $70, the guy and the store said i could
spend $400 if i wanted top quality... a bit high for me. the bug
store dude also said i should torque between 250-275 lbs/ft! wow...
thats alot of torquing.
thanks for everyones input... i'll be finishing up tomorrow (i hope)



--- In 1302@..., Mike Knight <mknight@e...> wrote:
> My 2 cents -
>
> I agree with what Mark has said - but if an impact wrench (spanner
here in
> the UK) is too expensive - the socket will have a ¾" drive - just
get a flat
> bar about 3' x 2" x ¼" and wed a ¾" on the need - cheap and it
takes a hell
> of a lot of pounding without damage.
>
> If you swing by Birmingham, UK - you can have mine! :-)
>
>
>
>
>
> To tighten - I worked out my body weight over the appropriate
extension of
> the scaffold pole, and voila you get the right torque. That did
it for me
> for many, many tears. Do not forget to re-tighten after a week of
driving.
>
>
>
> Mike
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: bruce hotson [mailto:grnphrog@y...]
> Sent: 29 October 2003 07:48
> To: 1302@...
> Subject: [1302 eGroup] replacing all cylinders... master and wheel
>
>
>
> i noticed some fluid leaking out of the left front wheel cylinder,
> so i thougth it might be wise to replace 32 year old parts.
> i did the master cylinder and front left, but couldnt do the rear
> because i didnt have a big enough wrench to take the rear nut
off...
> do you know what nut it is?
> thanks for the help,
> bruce
>
>
>
> --- In 1302@..., Mike Knight <mknight@e...> wrote:
> > Try adjusting the brakes - again - they often need to re-centre
> themselves
> >
> > Try pumping the brake pedal, does it get stiffer? If it has, but
> only a bit
> > try driving a couple of meters backward and forward and braking,
> this will
> > knock the shoes into the right position
> >
> > Re-adjust.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you still have a spongy pedal - you might need to bleed the
> brakes,
> > sometimes pushing the pistons back can introduce air, especially
> if they
> > seals are a bit dodgy.
> >
> >
> >
> > If you bleed the brakes - and the brake fluid is old - I would
> take the
> > opportunity to pump a lot of new fluid through the system. Over
> time the
> > fluid picks up water and this water can boil if you are using
the
> brakes a
> > lot. This happened to me once coming down a Spanish mountain
pass
> in a Ford
> > rally car - only handbrake sliding it into a quarry stopped me
> dropping
> > about 300 meters down to the valley floor!!!! This makes you
> think about
> > brake fluid!!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: bruce hotson [mailto:grnphrog@y...]
> > Sent: 28 October 2003 07:29
> > To: 1302@...
> > Subject: [1302 eGroup] spongy brakes...
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi all... I thought I would tap the knowledge of all who took
the
> > time to read this post.
> > I just installed new brake shoes in the front of my 1971
standard
> > bug. When I tested the brake pedal after I was done, the pedal
> went
> > all the way to the floor! This surprises me because I didnt have
> to
> > undo any brake lines, the only thing I can think of might have
to
> do
> > with me compressing the left wheel cylinder with a clamp to push
> > back the pistons so I could install the shoes. I undid the
> reservoir
> > cap to allow the brake fluid back into it with out building up
> > pressure and I made sure that it was full before I did anything.
> > Any thoughts, advice, and/or constructive critizism would be
> greatly
> > appreciated.
> > Thanks,
> > Bruce
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
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