HurdyGurdyForum : Messages : 6445-6474 of 9293

#6445

From: "arle_lommel" <alommel@...>
Date: Mon Mar 29, 2010 3:49 pm
Subject: New tuning and string question

(Apologies for the cross-posting for those who are on the other HG list.)

I have a three chanter instrument and after reading a tuning description by
Simon Wascher a few days ago I have decided I want to try the following chanter
tuning on my C/G instrument:

G (below middle C)
g (above middle c)
d' (one octave above middle C)

I currently have the first two strings (my current tuning is G g g, all in gut),
so I really only *need* to change one string.

So the first question I have is for any recommendations for what might be good
as that high D. I'd like a relatively inexpensive string to try this tuning out
on before I invest too much in the tuning.

My second question is for recommendations for what would work as a good lower
chanter. I've been using a gut string provided by Balázs Nagy, but I find it a
little "soft" for my taste and would prefer something a bit higher tension to
get a crisper response and less bending (I don't mind some bendability, but this
is just a bit much for my taste). I still want the lower chanter sound (I love
having the almost trombone-like quality it gives).

So any suggestions on these two items?

-Arle

Reply | Messages in this Topic (7)

#6446

From: "arle_lommel" <alommel@...>
Date: Mon Mar 29, 2010 7:40 pm
Subject: Re: New tuning and string question: Correction

arle_lommel

Send Email

One quick correction. I was off an octave. My desired tuning is:

g g' d''

-Arle

Reply | Messages in this Topic (7)

#6447

From: neilbrook <nwbrook@...>
Date: Mon Mar 29, 2010 7:46 pm
Subject: Re: New tuning and string question

nwbrook@...

Send Email

Those who have tried my "wonderstring " rate it highly for the d" . For low g , I'd recommend Corelli Crystal violin 4th.

Regards

Neil

On 29 Mar 2010, at 16:49, arle_lommel wrote:

(Apologies for the cross-posting for those who are on the other HG list.)

I have a three chanter instrument and after reading a tuning description by Simon Wascher a few days ago I have decided I want to try the following chanter tuning on my C/G instrument:

G (below middle C)
g (above middle c)
d' (one octave above middle C)

I currently have the first two strings (my current tuning is G g g, all in gut), so I really only *need* to change one string.

So the first question I have is for any recommendations for what might be good as that high D. I'd like a relatively inexpensive string to try this tuning out on before I invest too much in the tuning.

My second question is for recommendations for what would work as a good lower chanter. I've been using a gut string provided by Balázs Nagy, but I find it a little "soft" for my taste and would prefer something a bit higher tension to get a crisper response and less bending (I don't mind some bendability, but this is just a bit much for my taste). I still want the lower chanter sound (I love having the almost trombone-like quality it gives).

So any suggestions on these two items?

-Arle

nwbrook@...

Reply | Messages in this Topic (7)

#6448

From: "Martyn Robinson" <martyn.robinson@...>
Date: Mon Mar 29, 2010 10:55 pm
Subject: Re: New tuning and string question

robinsonmartyn

Send Email

On Neil’s recommendation last year I changed one of my two gut chanters (both tuned to g) to the Corelli Crystal string and tuned it one octave lower (G) and it sounds fantastic. What made it even better was the expression on the face of the fellow in the Sydney Violin Centre, who sold it to me, and his comments = “We don’t normally sell Corelli Crystal strings as they have a nasty nasal quality to the sound which I imagine would be ideal for a hurdy gurdy’!

I recommend the Corelli Crystals too.

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Reply | Messages in this Topic (7)

#6449

From: "gurdyfest" <gurdyfest@...>
Date: Mon Mar 29, 2010 11:10 pm
Subject: Hurdy-gurdy festival 6-9th May 2010 Youlgrave

gurdyfest

Send Email

Dear Forum members,

As you hopefully all know, we are now hardly more than a month away from the

4th UK Hurdy-gurdy Festival, 6th-9th May 2010 in Youlgrave.

For all details including programme and tickets please visit www.gurdy.co.uk .

We have again a fantastic line-up, exciting concert and workshop programme. And we think there cannot be more rain than we had last year, so this time the weather should be better. Thanks to all who have already booked your tickets and workshop places.

We organisers (Scott and Cecilia), being busy people with a normal working life will be away from our computer screens for a good couple of weeks, and although we'll try our best to keep you up-to-date and manage bookings, you might need to be patient and wait for a confirmation especially if you pay by cheque.

Happy Easter Everyone!

Cecilia and Scott

Reply | Messages in this Topic (1)

#6450

From: Enzo Puzzovio <dante.f@...>
Date: Tue Mar 30, 2010 8:32 am
Subject: Dublin

puzz.ovio

Send Email

Hi everyone,

I'm planning a trip to Dublin for September (7-12) and thinking of taking my
HG. Does anyone know about busking in Dublin? Is it allowed, is it welcome,
are there any no-go areas, are there perfect locations? Any decent evening
sessions or welcoming music clubs?

Handy tips and advice gratefully received. It will make a difference as to
my buying an extra Ryan Air seat for my HG - or not.

Enzo

Reply | Messages in this Topic (2)

#6451

From: Melvin Dorries <Melannde@...>
Date: Tue Mar 30, 2010 1:16 pm
Subject: Re: Re: HG kit sent from USA to UK

Melannde

Send Email

Hi All,

We have had some inquires regarding shipping our hurdy-gurdy kits from the USA to the UK and we are delighted with this. I am wondering what it costs the customer to receive an imported item such as this. Is there tax, duty, customs fees? Does anyone out there know? Our kits sell for $995 or about 665GBP with current exchange rate. What additional fees would a customer have to pay to get one in the UK?

Thanks

Hurdygurdycrafters

Mel

--- On Sun, 3/28/10, Scott Marshall <sklmarshall@...> wrote:

From: Scott Marshall <sklmarshall@...>
Subject: [HurdyGurdyForum] Re: Weird string problems
To: HurdyGurdyForum@...
Date: Sunday, March 28, 2010, 12:09 PM

I had a .41 string in my gurdy box so have tried that for now, but I think I will try out your suggestion too Neil, the violin string, thanks Scott :)

--- In HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk, neilbrook <nwbrook@... > wrote:
>
> I'm only saying they work for me. I find the viola string a bit stiff for my taste.
> On 28 Mar 2010, at 12:52, scott marshall wrote:
>
> > Hi Neil , I think it is a corelli crystal viola d medium it has a pink and black triped silk winding on the tail end. Is this the wrong string then? :) What would the viola string be used for, a mouche? The string was fitted, and the packet was in the case with my gurdy when I bought it. It can sound great , but it's not reliable. Cheers Scott
> >
> > --- On Sun, 28/3/10, neilbrook <nwbrook@... > wrote:
> >
> > From: neilbrook <nwbrook@... >
> > Subject: Re: [HurdyGurdyForum] Weird string problems
> > To: HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk
> > Date: Sunday, 28 March, 2010, 12:35
> >
> >
> > Hi Scott
> >
> > You don't say what make of wound string you are using. I'd say that if it isn't a corelli crystal violin 3rd, that may be the problem.
> >
> > For unison g, 38 thou is ok if you have a dull instrument but 35/36 will give a sweeter tone and more vibrato.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Neil
> > On 28 Mar 2010, at 11:18, Scott Marshall wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> I have been having some string problems, one on a d/g gurdy with a wound low d chanterelle. ...sometimes the string doesnt sound at all /goes into harmonics... or just makes a weird 'microphone feedback' type sound... I can't figure it out. If I wind the handle backwards and then forwards it sorts it out, or if I twist the cotton, but the problems come back again, particularly when playing fast. I have tried re cottoning shimming/ removing shims and rosin...
> >>
> >> Also on my g/c I have some heavy chanterelles fitted .38 thou, i find I am having to shim them alot because otherwise they are too loud, but then the sound can be a bit whistley/ harmonic. Would I be better of with lighter chanterelles like .35 and less shimming?
> >>
> >> Cheers Scott :)
> >>
> >
> >
> > nwbrook@gmail. com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> nwbrook@...
>

Reply | Messages in this Topic (15)

#6452

From: Enzo Puzzovio <dante.f@...>
Date: Tue Mar 30, 2010 1:49 pm
Subject: Re: Re: HG kit sent from USA to UK

puzz.ovio

Send Email

On 30/3/10 14:16, "Melvin Dorries" <Melannde@...> wrote:

Hi All,

We have had some inquires regarding shipping our hurdy-gurdy kits from the USA to the UK and we are delighted with this. I am wondering what it costs the customer to receive an imported item such as this. Is there tax, duty, customs fees? Does anyone out there know? Our kits sell for $995 or about 665GBP with current exchange rate. What additional fees would a customer have to pay to get one in the UK?

Thanks
Hurdygurdycrafters
Mel

Hi Mel,

The last I heard, import duty is 30% of the purchase price for instruments. However, I’ve just pulled this down from the Tax Office website which shows just what a minefield this can be. Your clients should make their own enquiries by referring to http://www.hmrc.gov.uk/customs ...

Customs Duty is charged as a percentage of the total value of the goods - that is the sterling equivalent of the price paid abroad.
To work out the percentage, each type of product is given a 'commodity code'. This tells you what the Customs Duty rate percentage is for that particular product, based on whether it’s being imported or exported.
There are around 14,000 different classifications. The duty rate percentage for each may vary according to the country the goods come from. The average percentage is between 5 and 9 per cent, but it can be as low as 0 per cent or as high as 85 per cent.
To find out the Customs Duty rate for a product you can contact HM Revenue & Customs VAT, Customs and Excise Helpline.

Enzo

Reply | Messages in this Topic (15)

#6453

From: Ann Patmore <aqzo0191@...>
Date: Tue Mar 30, 2010 3:40 pm
Subject: Re: Re: HG kit sent from USA to UK

aqzo01

Send Email

Hi Mel, I don't know about your kits or quite how the import system works but can tell you that I bought 2 ring binders from the US and they were $6 each - our customs charged me �22 in tax etc! and yet other times I have received stuff and paid no tax. I think it is very much a case of who's on duty the day it comes through the system!� AnnP

On 30 March 2010 14:16, Melvin Dorries <Melannde@...> wrote:

Hi All,

�

We have had some inquires regarding shipping our hurdy-gurdy kits from the USA to the UK and we are delighted with this. I am wondering what it costs the customer to receive an imported item such as this. Is there tax, duty, customs fees? Does anyone out there know? Our kits sell for $995 or about 665GBP with current exchange rate.� What additional fees�would a customer have to pay to get one in the UK?

�

Thanks

Hurdygurdycrafters

Mel

--- On Sun, 3/28/10, Scott Marshall <sklmarshall@...> wrote:

From: Scott Marshall <sklmarshall@...>
Subject: [HurdyGurdyForum] Re: Weird string problems
To: HurdyGurdyForum@...
Date: Sunday, March 28, 2010, 12:09 PM

�

I had a .41 string in my gurdy box so have tried that for now, but I think I will try out your suggestion too Neil, the violin string, thanks Scott :)

--- In HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk, neilbrook <nwbrook@... > wrote:
>
> I'm only saying they work for me. I find the viola string a bit stiff for my taste.
> On 28 Mar 2010, at 12:52, scott marshall wrote:
>
> > Hi Neil , I think it is a corelli crystal viola d medium it has a pink and black triped silk winding on the tail end. Is this the wrong string then? :) What would the viola string be used for, a mouche? The string was fitted, and the packet was in the case with my gurdy when I bought it. It can sound great , but it's not reliable. Cheers Scott
> >
> > --- On Sun, 28/3/10, neilbrook <nwbrook@... > wrote:
> >
> > From: neilbrook <nwbrook@... >
> > Subject: Re: [HurdyGurdyForum] Weird string problems
> > To: HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk
> > Date: Sunday, 28 March, 2010, 12:35
> >
> >
> > Hi Scott
> >
> > You don't say what make of wound string you are using. I'd say that if it isn't a corelli crystal violin 3rd, that may be the problem.
> >
> > For unison g, 38 thou is ok if you have a dull instrument but 35/36 will give a sweeter tone and more vibrato.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Neil
> > On 28 Mar 2010, at 11:18, Scott Marshall wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> I have been having some string problems, one on a d/g gurdy with a wound low d chanterelle. ...sometimes the string doesnt sound at all /goes into harmonics... or just makes a weird 'microphone feedback' type sound... I can't figure it out. If I wind the handle backwards and then forwards it sorts it out, or if I twist the cotton, but the problems come back again, particularly when playing fast. I have tried re cottoning shimming/ removing shims and rosin...
> >>
> >> Also on my g/c I have some heavy chanterelles fitted .38 thou, i find I am having to shim them alot because otherwise they are too loud, but then the sound can be a bit whistley/ harmonic. Would I be better of with lighter chanterelles like .35 and less shimming?
> >>
> >> Cheers Scott :)
> >>
> >
> >
> > nwbrook@gmail. com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> nwbrook@...
>

Reply | Messages in this Topic (15)

#6454

From: Enzo Puzzovio <dante.f@...>
Date: Tue Mar 30, 2010 3:53 pm
Subject: Re: HG kit sent from USA to UK

puzz.ovio

Send Email

Reply | Messages in this Topic (15)

#6455

From: "Peter Goble" <rma-rhms@...>
Date: Tue Mar 30, 2010 5:08 pm
Subject: RE: Re: HG kit sent from USA to UK

turnatune

Send Email

Hello Mel,

A spot of ill health has reduced my HG labouring to a minimum, bit with no lack of enthusiasm, I wait for the warmer weather

Re your question. I bought a train from you last year @ say £300. I received a letter saying I will have to pay VAT @ 15% or £45. It is now back to 17 ½ , consequently your £655 will cause a customs & excise bill of circa £116.

Peter

From: HurdyGurdyForum@... [mailto:HurdyGurdyForum@...] On Behalf Of Melvin Dorries
Sent: 30 March 2010 14:16
To: HurdyGurdyForum@...
Subject: Re: [HurdyGurdyForum] Re: HG kit sent from USA to UK

Hi All,

Thanks

Hurdygurdycrafters

Mel

--- On Sun, 3/28/10, Scott Marshall <sklmarshall@...> wrote:

From: Scott Marshall <sklmarshall@...>
Subject: [HurdyGurdyForum] Re: Weird string problems
To: HurdyGurdyForum@...
Date: Sunday, March 28, 2010, 12:09 PM

I had a .41 string in my gurdy box so have tried that for now, but I think I will try out your suggestion too Neil, the violin string, thanks Scott :)

--- In HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk, neilbrook <nwbrook@... > wrote:
>
> I'm only saying they work for me. I find the viola string a bit stiff for my taste.
> On 28 Mar 2010, at 12:52, scott marshall wrote:
>
> > Hi Neil , I think it is a corelli crystal viola d medium it has a pink and black triped silk winding on the tail end. Is this the wrong string then? :) What would the viola string be used for, a mouche? The string was fitted, and the packet was in the case with my gurdy when I bought it. It can sound great , but it's not reliable. Cheers Scott
> >
> > --- On Sun, 28/3/10, neilbrook <nwbrook@... > wrote:
> >
> > From: neilbrook <nwbrook@... >
> > Subject: Re: [HurdyGurdyForum] Weird string problems
> > To: HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk
> > Date: Sunday, 28 March, 2010, 12:35
> >
> >
> > Hi Scott
> >
> > You don't say what make of wound string you are using. I'd say that if it isn't a corelli crystal violin 3rd, that may be the problem.
> >
> > For unison g, 38 thou is ok if you have a dull instrument but 35/36 will give a sweeter tone and more vibrato.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Neil
> > On 28 Mar 2010, at 11:18, Scott Marshall wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> I have been having some string problems, one on a d/g gurdy with a wound low d chanterelle. ...sometimes the string doesnt sound at all /goes into harmonics... or just makes a weird 'microphone feedback' type sound... I can't figure it out. If I wind the handle backwards and then forwards it sorts it out, or if I twist the cotton, but the problems come back again, particularly when playing fast. I have tried re cottoning shimming/ removing shims and rosin...
> >>
> >> Also on my g/c I have some heavy chanterelles fitted .38 thou, i find I am having to shim them alot because otherwise they are too loud, but then the sound can be a bit whistley/ harmonic. Would I be better of with lighter chanterelles like .35 and less shimming?
> >>
> >> Cheers Scott :)
> >>
> >
> >
> > nwbrook@gmail. com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> nwbrook@...
>

Reply | Messages in this Topic (15)

#6456

From: "lorna9029" <lorna.robin@...>
Date: Tue Mar 30, 2010 6:21 pm
Subject: Re: Dublin

lorna9029

Send Email

i used to busk in Dublin and it was just find a spot....but that was 20 years
ago...stay as close to the centre as posible is my advice.
Regards
Robin

--- In HurdyGurdyForum@..., Enzo Puzzovio <dante.f@...> wrote:
>
> Hi everyone,
>
> I'm planning a trip to Dublin for September (7-12) and thinking of taking my
> HG. Does anyone know about busking in Dublin? Is it allowed, is it welcome,
> are there any no-go areas, are there perfect locations? Any decent evening
> sessions or welcoming music clubs?
>
> Handy tips and advice gratefully received. It will make a difference as to
> my buying an extra Ryan Air seat for my HG - or not.
>
> Enzo
>

Reply | Messages in this Topic (2)

#6457

From: Melvin Dorries <Melannde@...>
Date: Tue Mar 30, 2010 7:46 pm
Subject: RE: Re: HG kit sent from USA to UK

Melannde

Send Email

Hi Peter, Enzo and Ann,

Thank you for your replies regarding cost to import goods from the USA. Lots of interest in our products from your great country but we certainly don't want to mislead people about hidden costs. Hence the question. I will check it out further with all your help this will be much easier.

Get well Peter

Your Neighbor

Mel

--- On Tue, 3/30/10, Peter Goble <rma-rhms@...> wrote:

From: Peter Goble <rma-rhms@...>
Subject: RE: [HurdyGurdyForum] Re: HG kit sent from USA to UK
To: HurdyGurdyForum@...
Date: Tuesday, March 30, 2010, 1:08 PM

Hello Mel,

A spot of ill health has reduced my HG labouring to a minimum, bit with no lack of enthusiasm, I wait for the warmer weather

Re your question. I bought a train from you last year @ say £300. I received a letter saying I will have to pay VAT @ 15% or £45. It is now back to 17 ½ , consequently your £655 will cause a customs & excise bill of circa £116.

Peter

From: HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk [mailto:HurdyGurdyF orum@yahoogroups .co.uk] On Behalf Of Melvin Dorries
Sent: 30 March 2010 14:16
To: HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk
Subject: Re: [HurdyGurdyForum] Re: HG kit sent from USA to UK

Hi All,

We have had some inquires regarding shipping our hurdy-gurdy kits from the USA to the UK and we are delighted with this. I am wondering what it costs the customer to receive an imported item such as this. Is there tax, duty, customs fees? Does anyone out there know? Our kits sell for $995 or about 665GBP with current exchange rate. What additional fees would a customer have to pay to get one in the UK?

Thanks

Hurdygurdycrafters

Mel

--- On Sun, 3/28/10, Scott Marshall <sklmarshall@ yahoo.co. uk> wrote:

From: Scott Marshall <sklmarshall@ yahoo.co. uk>
Subject: [HurdyGurdyForum] Re: Weird string problems
To: HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk
Date: Sunday, March 28, 2010, 12:09 PM

I had a .41 string in my gurdy box so have tried that for now, but I think I will try out your suggestion too Neil, the violin string, thanks Scott :)

--- In HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk, neilbrook <nwbrook@... > wrote:
>
> I'm only saying they work for me. I find the viola string a bit stiff for my taste.
> On 28 Mar 2010, at 12:52, scott marshall wrote:
>
> > Hi Neil , I think it is a corelli crystal viola d medium it has a pink and black triped silk winding on the tail end. Is this the wrong string then? :) What would the viola string be used for, a mouche? The string was fitted, and the packet was in the case with my gurdy when I bought it. It can sound great , but it's not reliable. Cheers Scott
> >
> > --- On Sun, 28/3/10, neilbrook <nwbrook@... > wrote:
> >
> > From: neilbrook <nwbrook@... >
> > Subject: Re: [HurdyGurdyForum] Weird string problems
> > To: HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk
> > Date: Sunday, 28 March, 2010, 12:35
> >
> >
> > Hi Scott
> >
> > You don't say what make of wound string you are using. I'd say that if it isn't a corelli crystal violin 3rd, that may be the problem.
> >
> > For unison g, 38 thou is ok if you have a dull instrument but 35/36 will give a sweeter tone and more vibrato.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Neil
> > On 28 Mar 2010, at 11:18, Scott Marshall wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> I have been having some string problems, one on a d/g gurdy with a wound low d chanterelle. ...sometimes the string doesnt sound at all /goes into harmonics... or just makes a weird 'microphone feedback' type sound... I can't figure it out. If I wind the handle backwards and then forwards it sorts it out, or if I twist the cotton, but the problems come back again, particularly when playing fast. I have tried re cottoning shimming/ removing shims and rosin...
> >>
> >> Also on my g/c I have some heavy chanterelles fitted .38 thou, i find I am having to shim them alot because otherwise they are too loud, but then the sound can be a bit whistley/ harmonic. Would I be better of with lighter chanterelles like .35 and less shimming?
> >>
> >> Cheers Scott :)
> >>
> >
> >
> > nwbrook@gmail. com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> nwbrook@...
>

Reply | Messages in this Topic (15)

#6458

From: "CWH" <c.hl@...>
Date: Tue Mar 30, 2010 11:33 pm
Subject: Re: Re: HG kit sent from USA to UK

hillneerg

Send Email

There is, I think, a limit on which they don't charge duty and, most important, what class the item falls into. There are different rates of customs duty to be paid.

When seeking a HG, I was advised by the customs to either cladd it as a mechanical instrument or a violin class instrument (I don't remember which). I DO remember there was rather a large difference in the cost.

I must be honest and admit that all the DVDs and CDs I have bought from the US have never had anything charged but, as I said, I don'tthink they charge on small items under a certain value.

There should be a list (Harmonized Tariff System (HTS) )

that you could look at.

This site may help:

http://customs.hmrc.gov.uk/channelsPortalWebApp/channelsPortalWebApp.portal?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=pageImport_FAQs&propertyType=document&columns=1&id=HMCE_PROD_008654#P6_368

Colin Hill

----- Original Message -----

From: Melvin Dorries

To: HurdyGurdyForum@...

Sent: Tuesday, March 30, 2010 8:46 PM

Subject: RE: [HurdyGurdyForum] Re: HG kit sent from USA to UK

Hi Peter, Enzo and Ann,

Thank you for your replies regarding cost to import goods from the USA. Lots of interest in our products from your great country but we certainly don't want to mislead people about hidden costs. Hence the question. I will check it out further with all your help this will be much easier.

Get well Peter

Your Neighbor

Mel

--- On Tue, 3/30/10, Peter Goble <rma-rhms@gmx.com> wrote:

From: Peter Goble <rma-rhms@gmx.com>
Subject: RE: [HurdyGurdyForum] Re: HG kit sent from USA to UK
To: HurdyGurdyForum@yahoogroups.co.uk
Date: Tuesday, March 30, 2010, 1:08 PM

Hello Mel,

A spot of ill health has reduced my HG labouring to a minimum, bit with no lack of enthusiasm, I wait for the warmer weather

Re your question. I bought a train from you last year @ say £300. I received a letter saying I will have to pay VAT @ 15% or £45. It is now back to 17 ½ , consequently your £655 will cause a customs & excise bill of circa £116.

Peter

From: HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk [mailto:HurdyGurdyF orum@yahoogroups .co.uk] On Behalf Of Melvin Dorries
Sent: 30 March 2010 14:16
To: HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk
Subject: Re: [HurdyGurdyForum] Re: HG kit sent from USA to UK

Hi All,

We have had some inquires regarding shipping our hurdy-gurdy kits from the USA to the UK and we are delighted with this. I am wondering what it costs the customer to receive an imported item such as this. Is there tax, duty, customs fees? Does anyone out there know? Our kits sell for $995 or about 665GBP with current exchange rate. What additional fees would a customer have to pay to get one in the UK?

Thanks

Hurdygurdycrafters

Mel

--- On Sun, 3/28/10, Scott Marshall <sklmarshall@ yahoo.co. uk> wrote:

From: Scott Marshall <sklmarshall@ yahoo.co. uk>
Subject: [HurdyGurdyForum] Re: Weird string problems
To: HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk
Date: Sunday, March 28, 2010, 12:09 PM

I had a .41 string in my gurdy box so have tried that for now, but I think I will try out your suggestion too Neil, the violin string, thanks Scott :)

--- In HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk, neilbrook <nwbrook@... > wrote:
>
> I'm only saying they work for me. I find the viola string a bit stiff for my taste.
> On 28 Mar 2010, at 12:52, scott marshall wrote:
>
> > Hi Neil , I think it is a corelli crystal viola d medium it has a pink and black triped silk winding on the tail end. Is this the wrong string then? :) What would the viola string be used for, a mouche? The string was fitted, and the packet was in the case with my gurdy when I bought it. It can sound great , but it's not reliable. Cheers Scott
> >
> > --- On Sun, 28/3/10, neilbrook <nwbrook@... > wrote:
> >
> > From: neilbrook <nwbrook@... >
> > Subject: Re: [HurdyGurdyForum] Weird string problems
> > To: HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk
> > Date: Sunday, 28 March, 2010, 12:35
> >
> >
> > Hi Scott
> >
> > You don't say what make of wound string you are using. I'd say that if it isn't a corelli crystal violin 3rd, that may be the problem.
> >
> > For unison g, 38 thou is ok if you have a dull instrument but 35/36 will give a sweeter tone and more vibrato.
> >
> > Cheers
> >
> > Neil
> > On 28 Mar 2010, at 11:18, Scott Marshall wrote:
> >
> >>
> >> I have been having some string problems, one on a d/g gurdy with a wound low d chanterelle. ...sometimes the string doesnt sound at all /goes into harmonics... or just makes a weird 'microphone feedback' type sound... I can't figure it out. If I wind the handle backwards and then forwards it sorts it out, or if I twist the cotton, but the problems come back again, particularly when playing fast. I have tried re cottoning shimming/ removing shims and rosin...
> >>
> >> Also on my g/c I have some heavy chanterelles fitted .38 thou, i find I am having to shim them alot because otherwise they are too loud, but then the sound can be a bit whistley/ harmonic. Would I be better of with lighter chanterelles like .35 and less shimming?
> >>
> >> Cheers Scott :)
> >>
> >
> >
> > nwbrook@gmail. com
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> nwbrook@...
>

Reply | Messages in this Topic (15)

#6459

From: "Steve E" <brunfelsia@...>
Date: Wed Mar 31, 2010 5:54 am
Subject: Customs

psychotriav

Send Email

Hi All,

My experience tallies with other members with small items e.g.CDs, luthier bits
etc. which often come from USA labelled as "gift". I recall that when my shaft
and wheel arrived from Mel about 18m ago that there was nothing to pay with
HMRC. This seemed to be down to how creative the sender was and what description
was on the declaration, i.e. "craft materials". Larger parcels and larger
declared values may attract more attention!

Regards,

Steve

Reply | Messages in this Topic (4)

#6460

From: "Frank Vickers" <fv@...>
Date: Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:18 am
Subject: RE: Customs

fv.hg200

Send Email

I don’t want to suggest any avoidance of taxes, but where appropriate, I believe that instruments sent and returned for repairs do not attract duty/VAT. I might be mistaken on that though – my children are telling me I’m wrong on so much nowadays I’m beginning to doubt my very existence.

Frank Vickers

From: HurdyGurdyForum@... [mailto:HurdyGurdyForum@...] On Behalf Of Steve E
Sent: 31 March 2010 06:55
To: HurdyGurdyForum@...
Subject: [HurdyGurdyForum] Customs

Hi All,

My experience tallies with other members with small items e.g.CDs, luthier bits etc. which often come from USA labelled as "gift". I recall that when my shaft and wheel arrived from Mel about 18m ago that there was nothing to pay with HMRC. This seemed to be down to how creative the sender was and what description was on the declaration, i.e. "craft materials". Larger parcels and larger declared values may attract more attention!

Regards,

Steve

Reply | Messages in this Topic (4)

#6461

From: VonHorne@...
Date: Wed Mar 31, 2010 11:01 am
Subject: Re: Customs

fahnreich

Send Email

Also not one to say don't pay your taxes, it strikes me that Steve is actually correct here. You are not actually sending an instrument. You are sending the parts for the construction of an instrument. This would be like shipping a log to someone and calling it a violin (some assembly required). I think that "craft supplies" is actually an apt name for what you are shipping. It is still, at that point, only a supplies kit and not an actual instrument so the builder could (if one chose to do something this absurd) build a model airplane with it.

To the best of my knowledge, the import duty is based on importing a commodity that is made locally to such a degree that bringing the goods in from an outside source could damage the in-country market. I really don't see this as being a problem in the hurdy gurdy market. I know that if you ship to the US and name the instrument a "bagpipe" there is no duty (I guess the bagpipe makers lobby didn't have enough money for their senator).

Scott

Reply | Messages in this Topic (4)

#6462

From: Melvin Dorries <Melannde@...>
Date: Wed Mar 31, 2010 5:30 pm
Subject: Re: Customs& wheel question

Melannde

Send Email

Hi Scott,

Thanks for the info. and this is what our thinking was too. Perhaps this approch will help keep the transaction costs lower for customers.

Just sent a kit to the Swiss Alps and have no idea what the recipient will be in for but he knew and was happy to pay it so all is well there.

Any idea what your new HG's synthetic wheel is made of?

We need to cast a wheel but I don't want to experiment and "reinvent the wheel"
so to speak. Tried and true is just fine here.

Mel
--- On Wed, 3/31/10, VonHorne@... <VonHorne@...> wrote:

From: VonHorne@... <VonHorne@...>
Subject: Re: [HurdyGurdyForum] Customs
To: HurdyGurdyForum@...
Date: Wednesday, March 31, 2010, 11:01 AM

Also not one to say don't pay your taxes, it strikes me that Steve is actually correct here. You are not actually sending an instrument. You are sending the parts for the construction of an instrument. This would be like shipping a log to someone and calling it a violin (some assembly required). I think that "craft supplies" is actually an apt name for what you are shipping. It is still, at that point, only a supplies kit and not an actual instrument so the builder could (if one chose to do something this absurd) build a model airplane with it.

To the best of my knowledge, the import duty is based on importing a commodity that is made locally to such a degree that bringing the goods in from an outside source could damage the in-country market. I really don't see this as being a problem in the hurdy gurdy market. I know that if you ship to the US and name the instrument a "bagpipe" there is no duty (I guess the bagpipe makers lobby didn't have enough money for their senator).

Scott

Reply | Messages in this Topic (4)

#6463

From: robert loechler <robertloechler@...>
Date: Wed Mar 31, 2010 7:42 pm
Subject: chanter cotton

robertloechler

Send Email

Dear forum,

As a dedicated novice player for about a year,I am considering jettisoning the use of cotton altogether on my D/G unison d' chanters.Why?I would rather chew up a few bucks on replacing strings than try to replace my sore fingers from hours of retuning after each change of cotton.My HG has metal tangents.Precise but very tedious using a screwdriver.My ear as a 57 year old professional musician is brutally precise.The upper octave sounds aweful/unusable with even the slighest out-of-tune pulsation.If you suggest wooden tangents,I had plastic pressure fit ones on my first HG.same tediousness.My 041" gauge gut chanters are $18 each,a small price to pay for preserving my hands and precious time(at this age).Spending 75-90 of HG time tuning is not for me.And,so far as cheaper strings,the closest I can get right now is 038" nylgut ukulele strings for about $2-3 each.Thus,anyone with any experience with running chanters without cotton let me know results.does this get rid of perpetual tuning?How quickly do strings wear out this way?Does the string wear over time affect the tuning?Are there any cheap 039-041" strings available rather than gut?Before "solving" one problem and creating 2-3 new ones I figured that Forum consultation might help.Thanks for any help...Robert

Reply | Messages in this Topic (23)

#6464

From: neilbrook <nwbrook@...>
Date: Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:10 pm
Subject: Re: chanter cotton

nwbrook@...

Send Email

Are your fingers sore from using tuning pegs ? if so, why not fit "peghed" tuners and save yourself all that trouble.

Without cotton, you may get perfectly in tune but your loss of tone would probably irritate just as much. There should be no need to constantly change tangent settings. What is happening is that you are applying your cotton differently and that knocks it out of tune. Persevere in learning how to replicate the cotton application each time and your problem will go away.

Cheers

Neil

On 31 Mar 2010, at 20:42, robert loechler wrote:

Dear forum,

As a dedicated novice player for about a year,I am considering jettisoning the use of cotton altogether on my D/G unison d' chanters.Why?I would rather chew up a few bucks on replacing strings than try to replace my sore fingers from hours of retuning after each change of cotton.My HG has metal tangents.Precise but very tedious using a screwdriver.My ear as a 57 year old professional musician is brutally precise.The upper octave sounds aweful/unusable with even the slighest out-of-tune pulsation.If you suggest wooden tangents,I had plastic pressure fit ones on my first HG.same tediousness.My 041" gauge gut chanters are $18 each,a small price to pay for preserving my hands and precious time(at this age).Spending 75-90 of HG time tuning is not for me.And,so far as cheaper strings,the closest I can get right now is 038" nylgut ukulele strings for about $2-3 each.Thus,anyone with any experience with running chanters without cotton let me know results.does this get rid of perpetual tuning?How quickly do strings wear out this way?Does the string wear over time affect the tuning?Are there any cheap 039-041" strings available rather than gut?Before "solving" one problem and creating 2-3 new ones I figured that Forum consultation might help.Thanks for any help...Robert

Neil

www.hurdy-gurdy.org.uk

Reply | Messages in this Topic (23)

#6465

From: "Michael" <yello_armadillo@...>
Date: Wed Mar 31, 2010 8:18 pm
Subject: Re: HG kit sent from USA to UK

yello_armadillo

Send Email

I'm glad Hurdy Gurdy Crafters are in the States and there's no duty or VAT [at
least for now] to get a kit to Texas. Coincidently, mine just arrived yesterday!
If you want see how well Mel & Ann pack and ship their kits, I have some
pictures I took yesterday on my blog:

http://harvey-house.info/blog-hg/

--Michael


--- In HurdyGurdyForum@..., Melvin Dorries <Melannde@...> wrote:
>
> Hi All,
>  
> We have had some inquires regarding shipping our hurdy-gurdy kits from the USA
to the UK and we are delighted with this. I am wondering what it costs the
customer to receive an imported item such as this. Is there tax, duty, customs
fees? Does anyone out there know? Our kits sell for $995 or about 665GBP with
current exchange rate.  What additional fees would a customer have to pay to
get one in the UK?
>  
> Thanks
> Hurdygurdycrafters
> Mel
>
> --- On Sun, 3/28/10, Scott Marshall <sklmarshall@...> wrote:
>
>
> From: Scott Marshall <sklmarshall@...>
> Subject: [HurdyGurdyForum] Re: Weird string problems
> To: HurdyGurdyForum@...
> Date: Sunday, March 28, 2010, 12:09 PM
>
>
>  
>
>
>
> I had a .41 string in my gurdy box so have tried that for now, but I think I
will try out your suggestion too Neil, the violin string, thanks Scott :)
>
> --- In HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk, neilbrook <nwbrook@ > wrote:
> >
> > I'm only saying they work for me. I find the viola string a bit stiff for my
taste.
> > On 28 Mar 2010, at 12:52, scott marshall wrote:
> >
> > > Hi Neil , I think it is a corelli crystal viola d medium it has a pink and
black triped silk winding on the tail end. Is this the wrong string then? :)
What would the viola string be used for, a mouche? The string was fitted, and
the packet was in the case with my gurdy when I bought it. It can sound great ,
but it's not reliable. Cheers Scott
> > >
> > > --- On Sun, 28/3/10, neilbrook <nwbrook@ > wrote:
> > >
> > > From: neilbrook <nwbrook@ >
> > > Subject: Re: [HurdyGurdyForum] Weird string problems
> > > To: HurdyGurdyForum@ yahoogroups. co.uk
> > > Date: Sunday, 28 March, 2010, 12:35
> > >
> > >
> > > Hi Scott
> > >
> > > You don't say what make of wound string you are using. I'd say that if it
isn't a corelli crystal violin 3rd, that may be the problem.
> > >
> > > For unison g, 38 thou is ok if you have a dull instrument but 35/36 will
give a sweeter tone and more vibrato.
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > >
> > > Neil
> > > On 28 Mar 2010, at 11:18, Scott Marshall wrote:
> > >
> > >>
> > >> I have been having some string problems, one on a d/g gurdy with a wound
low d chanterelle. ...sometimes the string doesnt sound at all /goes into
harmonics... or just makes a weird 'microphone feedback' type sound... I can't
figure it out. If I wind the handle backwards and then forwards it sorts it out,
or if I twist the cotton, but the problems come back again, particularly when
playing fast. I have tried re cottoning shimming/ removing shims and rosin...
> > >>
> > >> Also on my g/c I have some heavy chanterelles fitted .38 thou, i find I
am having to shim them alot because otherwise they are too loud, but then the
sound can be a bit whistley/ harmonic. Would I be better of with lighter
chanterelles like .35 and less shimming?
> > >>
> > >> Cheers Scott :)
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > > nwbrook@gmail. com
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > nwbrook@
> >
>

Reply | Messages in this Topic (15)

#6466

From: VonHorne@...
Date: Wed Mar 31, 2010 4:53 pm
Subject: Re: chanter cotton

fahnreich

Send Email

Robert,

I am surprised that you would have to retune your tangents each time that you change cotton. It seems that if the string length remains the same you should not have to retune your tangents. Maybe it is your string and not the cotton. Have you tried other styles or makers? Have you checked to see if your nut is moving back and forth? You can check for movement by putting a pencil mark inside the keybox corresponding to the placement of the nut. Also, you may want to see if the bridge is bending or shifting at all when you apply cotton. The upper octave can be affected by movement at the bridge which may not affect the lower octave.

The keys closest to the wheel are usually very hard to keep tuned constantly. The problem is that wood moves (as I am sure you know). If you are very concerned about keeping them tunable you might want to bring the instrument back to the maker and have them readjust everything. Although I doubt that the changes would stay for long.

Scott

Reply | Messages in this Topic (23)

#6467

From: Augusto de Ornellas Abreu <augusto.ornellas@...>
Date: Wed Mar 31, 2010 9:37 pm
Subject: Re: chanter cotton

augusto_orne...

Send Email

In my experience, cottoning itself changes the pitch of the strings a lot, especially the upper octave.

I'm still struggling with cottoning and especially with the rosin. I renew the rosin when the sound starts to get weak, but then I spend HOURS trying to rub it off the wheel (with a clean soft rag, I do not have the nerve of using sandpaper, even the finest ones), because the sound gets too screechy with just a little rosin... After a long time and a great deal of elbow grease, the sound gets to where I like it, but there's gotta be an easiest way of doing it...

Too bad I won't be able to attend any of the major festivals (OTW, for example, where I was planning to go this year) - I live in Brazil and the closest events of the nature are at least 10 hours by plane and a couple of oceans apart from me...

On Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 5:53 PM, <VonHorne@...> wrote:

�

Robert,

�

I am surprised that you would have to retune your tangents�each time that you change cotton. It seems that if the string length remains the same you should not have to retune your tangents. Maybe it is your string and not the cotton. Have you tried other styles or makers? Have you checked to see if your nut is moving back and forth? You can check for movement by putting a pencil mark inside the keybox corresponding to the placement of the nut. Also, you may want to see if the bridge is bending or shifting at all when you apply cotton. The upper�octave can be affected by�movement at the bridge�which may not affect the lower octave.�

�

The keys closest to the wheel are usually very hard to keep tuned constantly. The problem is that wood moves (as I am sure you know). If you are very concerned about keeping them tunable you might want to bring the instrument back to the maker and have them readjust everything. Although I doubt that the changes would stay for long.

�

�

Scott

�

Reply | Messages in this Topic (23)

#6468

From: neilbrook <nwbrook@...>
Date: Wed Mar 31, 2010 10:00 pm
Subject: Re: chanter cotton

nwbrook@...

Send Email

It may be time to re-advertise the maintenance dvd :-)

On 31 Mar 2010, at 22:37, Augusto de Ornellas Abreu wrote:

In my experience, cottoning itself changes the pitch of the strings a lot, especially the upper octave.

I'm still struggling with cottoning and especially with the rosin. I renew the rosin when the sound starts to get weak, but then I spend HOURS trying to rub it off the wheel (with a clean soft rag, I do not have the nerve of using sandpaper, even the finest ones), because the sound gets too screechy with just a little rosin... After a long time and a great deal of elbow grease, the sound gets to where I like it, but there's gotta be an easiest way of doing it...

Too bad I won't be able to attend any of the major festivals (OTW, for example, where I was planning to go this year) - I live in Brazil and the closest events of the nature are at least 10 hours by plane and a couple of oceans apart from me...

On Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 5:53 PM, <VonHorne@aol.com> wrote:

Robert,

I am surprised that you would have to retune your tangents each time that you change cotton. It seems that if the string length remains the same you should not have to retune your tangents. Maybe it is your string and not the cotton. Have you tried other styles or makers? Have you checked to see if your nut is moving back and forth? You can check for movement by putting a pencil mark inside the keybox corresponding to the placement of the nut. Also, you may want to see if the bridge is bending or shifting at all when you apply cotton. The upper octave can be affected by movement at the bridge which may not affect the lower octave.

The keys closest to the wheel are usually very hard to keep tuned constantly. The problem is that wood moves (as I am sure you know). If you are very concerned about keeping them tunable you might want to bring the instrument back to the maker and have them readjust everything. Although I doubt that the changes would stay for long.

Scott

Neil

www.hurdy-gurdy.org.uk

Reply | Messages in this Topic (23)

#6469

From: Augusto de Ornellas Abreu <augusto.ornellas@...>
Date: Wed Mar 31, 2010 11:53 pm
Subject: Re: chanter cotton

augusto_orne...

Send Email

I have your DVD, Neil... Without it, I would be even worse, LOL

On Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 7:00 PM, neilbrook <nwbrook@...> wrote:

�

It may be time to re-advertise the maintenance dvd :-)

On 31 Mar 2010, at 22:37, Augusto de Ornellas Abreu wrote:

�
In my experience, cottoning itself changes the pitch of the strings a lot, especially the upper octave.

I'm still struggling with cottoning and especially with the rosin. I renew the rosin when the sound starts to get weak, but then I spend HOURS trying to rub it off the wheel (with a clean soft rag, I do not have the nerve of using sandpaper, even the finest ones), because the sound gets too screechy with just a little rosin... After a long time and a great deal of elbow grease, the sound gets to where I like it, but there's gotta be an easiest way of doing it...

Too bad I won't be able to attend any of the major festivals (OTW, for example, where I was planning to go this year) - I live in Brazil and the closest events of the nature are at least 10 hours by plane and a couple of oceans apart from me...

On Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 5:53 PM, <VonHorne@...> wrote:

�

Robert,

�

I am surprised that you would have to retune your tangents�each time that you change cotton. It seems that if the string length remains the same you should not have to retune your tangents. Maybe it is your string and not the cotton. Have you tried other styles or makers? Have you checked to see if your nut is moving back and forth? You can check for movement by putting a pencil mark inside the keybox corresponding to the placement of the nut. Also, you may want to see if the bridge is bending or shifting at all when you apply cotton. The upper�octave can be affected by�movement at the bridge�which may not affect the lower octave.�

�

The keys closest to the wheel are usually very hard to keep tuned constantly. The problem is that wood moves (as I am sure you know). If you are very concerned about keeping them tunable you might want to bring the instrument back to the maker and have them readjust everything. Although I doubt that the changes would stay for long.

�

�

Scott

�

Neil

www.hurdy-gurdy.org.uk

Reply | Messages in this Topic (23)

#6470

From: "Martyn Robinson" <martyn.robinson@...>
Date: Thu Apr 1, 2010 12:51 am
Subject: Re: chanter cotton

robinsonmartyn

Send Email

I’m still interested in any easy tips on how to cotton the drones in a Symphonie H.G. if anyone has any. I can do it – but not easily and am wondering if there is a trick I am missing? Any Symphonie owners out there with advice?

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Please consider the environment before printing this email.

Reply | Messages in this Topic (23)

#6471

From: robert loechler <robertloechler@...>
Date: Thu Apr 1, 2010 2:34 am
Subject: Re: chanter cotton

robertloechler

Send Email

Dear Neil,

thanks for your response.I will assume that "loss of tone" would mean a bit too much harshness without the cotton.whereas I understand the replication idea so far as cotton amounts,it never seems to quite work out so precisely.more practice I suppose.Plus,part of the tale that I left out is that I have been recutting chanter bridge slots over and over(maybe 10 times each) to try to match tone,volume,and wheel height for each of the unison 041" chanters.Each of these strings has been slackened and retightened probably 40-50 times each.Thus,some of the tuning issues have surronded trying to tune back up before a string has restabilized to maintain its proper pitch.Fortunately,this process is over.And,somehow by the grace of God,I have gotten a lot of the tangents to line up with one another either dead-on or within 1/16" one way or another.This way it makes remembering the sweet in-tune locations easier.Otherwise,I will stop monkeying trying for sonic perfection and focus on consistent cotton amounts (such as you suggest)to help to minimalize the retuning thing.thanks...Robert

--- On Wed, 3/31/10, neilbrook <nwbrook@...> wrote:

From: neilbrook <nwbrook@...>
Subject: Re: [HurdyGurdyForum] chanter cotton
To: HurdyGurdyForum@...
Date: Wednesday, March 31, 2010, 4:10 PM

Are your fingers sore from using tuning pegs ? if so, why not fit "peghed" tuners and save yourself all that trouble.

Without cotton, you may get perfectly in tune but your loss of tone would probably irritate just as much. There should be no need to constantly change tangent settings. What is happening is that you are applying your cotton differently and that knocks it out of tune. Persevere in learning how to replicate the cotton application each time and your problem will go away.

Cheers

Neil

On 31 Mar 2010, at 20:42, robert loechler wrote:

Dear forum,

As a dedicated novice player for about a year,I am considering jettisoning the use of cotton altogether on my D/G unison d' chanters.Why? I would rather chew up a few bucks on replacing strings than try to replace my sore fingers from hours of retuning after each change of cotton.My HG has metal tangents.Precise but very tedious using a screwdriver. My ear as a 57 year old professional musician is brutally precise.The upper octave sounds aweful/unusable with even the slighest out-of-tune pulsation.If you suggest wooden tangents,I had plastic pressure fit ones on my first HG.same tediousness. My 041" gauge gut chanters are $18 each,a small price to pay for preserving my hands and precious time(at this age).Spending 75-90 of HG time tuning is not for me.And,so far as cheaper strings,the closest I can get right now is 038" nylgut ukulele strings for about $2-3 each.Thus,anyone with any experience with running chanters without cotton let me know results.does this get rid of perpetual tuning?How quickly do strings wear out this way?Does the string wear over time affect the tuning?Are there any cheap 039-041" strings available rather than gut?Before "solving" one problem and creating 2-3 new ones I figured that Forum consultation might help.Thanks for any help...Robert

Neil

www.hurdy-gurdy.org.uk

Reply | Messages in this Topic (23)

#6472

From: robert loechler <robertloechler@...>
Date: Thu Apr 1, 2010 2:36 am
Subject: Re: chanter cotton

robertloechler

Send Email

Dear Scott,

Thanks for the ideas.A more detailed explanation is in email to Neil a couple minutes ago on the Forum...Robert

--- On Wed, 3/31/10, VonHorne@... <VonHorne@...> wrote:

From: VonHorne@... <VonHorne@...>
Subject: Re: [HurdyGurdyForum] chanter cotton
To: HurdyGurdyForum@...
Date: Wednesday, March 31, 2010, 4:53 PM

Robert,

I am surprised that you would have to retune your tangents each time that you change cotton. It seems that if the string length remains the same you should not have to retune your tangents. Maybe it is your string and not the cotton. Have you tried other styles or makers? Have you checked to see if your nut is moving back and forth? You can check for movement by putting a pencil mark inside the keybox corresponding to the placement of the nut. Also, you may want to see if the bridge is bending or shifting at all when you apply cotton. The upper octave can be affected by movement at the bridge which may not affect the lower octave.

The keys closest to the wheel are usually very hard to keep tuned constantly. The problem is that wood moves (as I am sure you know). If you are very concerned about keeping them tunable you might want to bring the instrument back to the maker and have them readjust everything. Although I doubt that the changes would stay for long.

Scott

Reply | Messages in this Topic (23)

#6473

From: robert loechler <robertloechler@...>
Date: Thu Apr 1, 2010 3:05 am
Subject: Re: chanter cotton

robertloechler

Send Email

Dear Augusto,

So far as rosin removal from the wheel,I have no problem with sandpaper of first 350 grit for 10-12 turns of the wheel followed by 400 grit for another 10-12 brisk turns of the wheel.My builder recommended this,and I have read about this same method in a French historical tract about hurdy gurdy maintenance from the 1700s.However,here is what I have settled on as a safer ,more comfortable method which I have had perfect results with for the past 6 months.It is simple:I went to the local hardware store and got a $5 window glass scraper with a retractable razor blade.If you are not familiar with such an item,it is used to scrape decals or anything unwanted off of window glass such as a car windshield or to scrape paint off of a house window,etc.This has been perfect for rosin removable.Detach all strings,turn the wheel,gently place blade evenly across the wheel rim,turn the wheel 5-6 brisk revolutions,lift off blade before stopping wheel,wipe rosin off blade.Since the razor blade on mine is not particularly sharp this process needs to be repeated about two to four times maximum depending on the rosin buildup.However,make sure that the blade is not pitted anywhere so that it scrapes evenly across the entire wheel rim.And,make sure that you place the blade down evenly across the entire wheel rim when you are scraping.I have had absolutely no problems with this method of rosin removal.Perfect every time...A final note:I did have to true the wheel once in a serious way.this glass scraper is not sharp or strong enough for trueing the wheel.The solution here was a scrap piece of window glass from the same hardware store cut to the same dimensions as the $5 glass scraper.This cost zero.It worked perfectly.Same technique but only 2-3 repetitions were necessary here because this cutting surface was far sharper.Also,I put masking tape around the bottom of the wheel to keep wood shavings from spitting into the interior of the hurdy gurdy...Good luck! I hope at least the $5 glass scraper rosin removal system will work for you as well.Although I play a lot,probably 15-20 hours a week,I find that I need to scrape off the rosin only once or twice a week on average...Robert

--- On Wed, 3/31/10, Augusto de Ornellas Abreu <augusto.ornellas@...> wrote:

From: Augusto de Ornellas Abreu <augusto.ornellas@...>
Subject: Re: [HurdyGurdyForum] chanter cotton
To: HurdyGurdyForum@...
Date: Wednesday, March 31, 2010, 5:37 PM

In my experience, cottoning itself changes the pitch of the strings a lot, especially the upper octave.

I'm still struggling with cottoning and especially with the rosin. I renew the rosin when the sound starts to get weak, but then I spend HOURS trying to rub it off the wheel (with a clean soft rag, I do not have the nerve of using sandpaper, even the finest ones), because the sound gets too screechy with just a little rosin... After a long time and a great deal of elbow grease, the sound gets to where I like it, but there's gotta be an easiest way of doing it...

Too bad I won't be able to attend any of the major festivals (OTW, for example, where I was planning to go this year) - I live in Brazil and the closest events of the nature are at least 10 hours by plane and a couple of oceans apart from me...

On Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 5:53 PM, <VonHorne@...> wrote:

Robert,

I am surprised that you would have to retune your tangents each time that you change cotton. It seems that if the string length remains the same you should not have to retune your tangents. Maybe it is your string and not the cotton. Have you tried other styles or makers? Have you checked to see if your nut is moving back and forth? You can check for movement by putting a pencil mark inside the keybox corresponding to the placement of the nut. Also, you may want to see if the bridge is bending or shifting at all when you apply cotton. The upper octave can be affected by movement at the bridge which may not affect the lower octave.

The keys closest to the wheel are usually very hard to keep tuned constantly. The problem is that wood moves (as I am sure you know). If you are very concerned about keeping them tunable you might want to bring the instrument back to the maker and have them readjust everything. Although I doubt that the changes would stay for long.

Scott

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#6474

From: Augusto de Ornellas Abreu <augusto.ornellas@...>
Date: Thu Apr 1, 2010 3:19 am
Subject: Re: chanter cotton

augusto_orne...

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I'm scared of using a fine sandpaper, do you think I would have the nerve of using a scraper with a blade?

oh my god, no... I'd ruin my HG, and the nearest HG maker nearby is at least 10 hours away on an airplane and across an ocean.

On Thu, Apr 1, 2010 at 12:05 AM, robert loechler <robertloechler@...> wrote:

�

Dear Augusto,

�� So far as rosin removal from the wheel,I have no problem with sandpaper of first 350 grit for 10-12 turns of the wheel followed by 400 grit for another 10-12 brisk turns of the wheel.My builder recommended this,and I have read about this same method in a French historical tract about hurdy gurdy maintenance from the 1700s.However,here is what I have settled on as a safer ,more comfortable method which I have had perfect results with for the past 6 months.It is simple:I went to the local hardware store and got a $5 window glass scraper with a retractable razor blade.If you are not familiar with such an item,it is used to scrape decals or anything unwanted off of window glass such as a car windshield or to scrape paint off of a house window,etc.This has been perfect for rosin removable.Detach all strings,turn the wheel,gently place blade evenly across the wheel rim,turn the wheel 5-6 brisk revolutions,lift off blade before stopping wheel,wipe rosin off blade.Since the razor blade on mine is not particularly sharp this process needs to be repeated about two to four times maximum depending on the rosin buildup.However,make sure that the blade is not pitted anywhere so that it scrapes evenly across the entire wheel rim.And,make sure that you place the blade down evenly across the entire wheel rim when you are scraping.I have had absolutely no problems with this method of rosin removal.Perfect every time...A final note:I did have to true the wheel once in a serious way.this glass scraper is not sharp or strong enough for trueing the wheel.The solution here was a scrap piece of window glass from the same hardware store cut to the same dimensions as the $5 glass scraper.This cost zero.It worked perfectly.Same technique but only 2-3 repetitions were necessary here because this cutting surface was far sharper.Also,I put masking tape around the bottom of the wheel to keep wood shavings from spitting into the interior of the hurdy gurdy...Good luck! I hope at least the $5 glass scraper rosin removal system will work for you as well.Although I play a lot,probably 15-20 hours a week,I find that I need to scrape off the rosin only once or twice a week on average...Robert

--- On Wed, 3/31/10, Augusto de Ornellas Abreu <augusto.ornellas@...> wrote:

From: Augusto de Ornellas Abreu <augusto.ornellas@...>

Subject: Re: [HurdyGurdyForum] chanter cotton
To: HurdyGurdyForum@...
Date: Wednesday, March 31, 2010, 5:37 PM

In my experience, cottoning itself changes the pitch of the strings a lot, especially the upper octave.

I'm still struggling with cottoning and especially with the rosin. I renew the rosin when the sound starts to get weak, but then I spend HOURS trying to rub it off the wheel (with a clean soft rag, I do not have the nerve of using sandpaper, even the finest ones), because the sound gets too screechy with just a little rosin... After a long time and a great deal of elbow grease, the sound gets to where I like it, but there's gotta be an easiest way of doing it...

Too bad I won't be able to attend any of the major festivals (OTW, for example, where I was planning to go this year) - I live in Brazil and the closest events of the nature are at least 10 hours by plane and a couple of oceans apart from me...

On Wed, Mar 31, 2010 at 5:53 PM, <VonHorne@...> wrote:

�

Robert,

�

I am surprised that you would have to retune your tangents�each time that you change cotton. It seems that if the string length remains the same you should not have to retune your tangents. Maybe it is your string and not the cotton. Have you tried other styles or makers? Have you checked to see if your nut is moving back and forth? You can check for movement by putting a pencil mark inside the keybox corresponding to the placement of the nut. Also, you may want to see if the bridge is bending or shifting at all when you apply cotton. The upper�octave can be affected by�movement at the bridge�which may not affect the lower octave.�

�

The keys closest to the wheel are usually very hard to keep tuned constantly. The problem is that wood moves (as I am sure you know). If you are very concerned about keeping them tunable you might want to bring the instrument back to the maker and have them readjust everything. Although I doubt that the changes would stay for long.

�

�

Scott

�

Reply | Messages in this Topic (23)

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