Nice one Chris.

I know some people that have spelling like that without
the aid of a drink first ! lol

Hope you get it sorted.

Cheers,
     John.


|->-----Original Message-----
|->From: Chris Hunter [mailto:cjhunter@...]
|->Sent: 01 August 2002 01:55:AM

<snip>

|->Chris
|->
|->
|->(Sorry for criptic reply ... have spilt my drink over
|->keyboard ... and not all the
|->keys now work ... and some give ,vbnxzUEPOIRlitple
|->characters ... !   As you can
|->see !   Rinsed it under the tap ... it helped ... but was
|->not a covbnxzplete cure
|->... )
...
This email is for the intended addressee only.
If you have received it in error then you must not use, retain, disseminate
or otherwise deal with it.  Please notify the sender by return email.
The views of the author may not necessarily constitute the views of Astrium
Limited.
Nothing in this email shall bind Astrium Limited in any contract or obligation.

Astrium Limited, Registered in England and Wales No. 2449259
Registered Office: Gunnels Wood Road, Stevenage, Hertfordshire, SG1 2AS, England

Our ground is also clay and although we have enough land for the huge
herrringbone drain field that would have been required we have other plans
for using it.

I've therefore fitted a Balmoral "CAP"  that looks exactly like anyone
else's septic tank but acytually has several separate internal chambers
including one that is continuously aerated.  It's now been working for
about a year, doesn't smell and produces an effluent that is allegedly
clean enough to drink but which I feed into a soakaway that when it isn't
soaking away will overflow to our pond


http://www.balmoral-group.com/tanks/level_2_pages/level_3_pages/enviro_products/\
cap.htm



Another alternative to large leach fields is the "Wisconsin Mound" - I give
below one of the likks and a short extract from it that I got by doing a
Google search for "septic tank mound" - try it yourself for another 4500
similar gems

http://cecalaveras.ucdavis.edu/realp.htm
"There is an engineering modification known as the Wisconsin mound system
which may allow the use of septic tank systems in areas previously
considered to be unsuitable due to slowly permeable soils (percolation
rates slower than 60 minutes per inch), thin soils over permeable bedrock,
and permanent or periodically high groundwater tables. Basically the only
differences are the addition of a pumping station to pump the tank effluent
up to a leach field constructed in a mound on top of the natural soil
surface. This system is definitely much more expensive than a traditional
septic tank system, but offers a viable solution in regions where the soil
characteristics preclude the use of a traditional system"



Eric Mears
Chemist LCUK
Hope Works
Derbyshire
S33 6RP

Tel (01433) 622254
Mob 077 14 22 65 12



                       EleanorEHewitt@ao
                       l.com                    To:      
UK_Selfbuild@...
                                                cc:
                       31/07/2002 23:21         Subject:  UK_Selfbuild Re: septic
tanks & treatment plants
                       Please respond to
                       UK_Selfbuild





After getting provisional ok from the environment agency for a septic tank
&
soak away, it now seems the percolation test may send us back to a
treatment
plant as the ground is solid clay! Oh well, its only money!!

Anyone care to voice a preference for Klargester v Condor?

Any experiences you'd like to share?

Eleanor








This e-mail is confidential and may contain legally privileged information.  If
you are not the intended recipient, you should not copy, distribute, disclose or
use the information it contains.  Please e-mail the sender immediately and
delete this message from your system.  E-mails are susceptible to corruption,
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your emails and their content.

Dear all

The pull switches we've had installed in our bathrooms are really noisy.
They didn't sound too bad before they went up but now they're of 'sonic
boom' proportions!  This is driving me nuts and we haven't even moved in
yet!

Anyone suggest the quietest on the market?

Many thanks
Richard.

Ours came from screwfix & seem OK (but we might just be more tolerant than
you <g>)

If the noise really bothers you, you might consider fixing a small box
packed with rockwool around the body of the switch or perhaps even
relocating the switch into the roofspace and fitting a very long string

Eric Mears
Chemist LCUK
Hope Works
Derbyshire
S33 6RP

Tel (01433) 622254
Mob 077 14 22 65 12



                       Richard Butters
                       <Richard.Butters@        To:       Self Build
<UK_Selfbuild@...>
                       tesco.net>               cc:
                                                Subject:  UK_Selfbuild Noisy pull
switch
                       01/08/2002 09:44
                       Please respond to
                       UK_Selfbuild





Dear all

The pull switches we've had installed in our bathrooms are really noisy.
They didn't sound too bad before they went up but now they're of 'sonic
boom' proportions!  This is driving me nuts and we haven't even moved in
yet!

Anyone suggest the quietest on the market?

Many thanks
Richard.


To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
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To contact the moderator eMail: Rick.Hughes@...


Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
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you are not the intended recipient, you should not copy, distribute, disclose or
use the information it contains.  Please e-mail the sender immediately and
delete this message from your system.  E-mails are susceptible to corruption,
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changes, or for their consequences. You should be aware that Lafarge may monitor
your emails and their content.

Richard,
are you sure its not just the fact that there is nothing in the
room to absorb the noise yet ?
Once you've got curtains, and towels hanging on radiators etc it
will probably be a lot better.

You could also try screwing the switch to the ceiling through a
thin piece of fairly dense foam, so that it doesn't transmit
so much of the switch noise to the ceiling.

Cheers,
     John.

|->-----Original Message-----
|->From: Eric.Mears@...
|->[mailto:Eric.Mears@...]
|->Sent: 01 August 2002 09:55:AM
|->To: UK_Selfbuild@...
|->Subject: Re: UK_Selfbuild Noisy pull switch
|->
|->
|->
|->Ours came from screwfix & seem OK (but we might just be more
|->tolerant than
|->you <g>)
|->
|->If the noise really bothers you, you might consider fixing a
|->small box
|->packed with rockwool around the body of the switch or perhaps even
|->relocating the switch into the roofspace and fitting a very
|->long string
|->
|->Eric Mears
|->Chemist LCUK
|->Hope Works
|->Derbyshire
|->S33 6RP
|->
|->Tel (01433) 622254
|->Mob 077 14 22 65 12
|->
|->
|->
|->
|->
|->                      Richard Butters
|->
|->
|->                      <Richard.Butters@        To:
|->Self Build <UK_Selfbuild@...>
|->
|->                      tesco.net>               cc:
|->
|->
|->                                               Subject:
|->UK_Selfbuild Noisy pull switch
|->
|->                      01/08/2002 09:44
|->
|->
|->                      Please respond to
|->
|->
|->                      UK_Selfbuild
|->
|->
|->
|->
|->
|->
|->
|->
|->
|->
|->
|->Dear all
|->
|->The pull switches we've had installed in our bathrooms are
|->really noisy.
|->They didn't sound too bad before they went up but now
|->they're of 'sonic
|->boom' proportions!  This is driving me nuts and we haven't
|->even moved in
|->yet!
|->
|->Anyone suggest the quietest on the market?
|->
|->Many thanks
|->Richard.
|->
|->
|->To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
|->UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
|->The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
|->To contact the moderator eMail: Rick.Hughes@...
|->
|->
|->Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
|->http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/info/terms.html
|->
|->
|->
|->
|->
|->
|->
|->This e-mail is confidential and may contain legally
|->privileged information.  If you are not the intended
|->recipient, you should not copy, distribute, disclose or use
|->the information it contains.  Please e-mail the sender
|->immediately and delete this message from your system.
|->E-mails are susceptible to corruption, interception and
|->unauthorised amendment; we do not accept liability for any
|->such changes, or for their consequences. You should be aware
|->that Lafarge may monitor your emails and their content.
|->
|->
|->To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
|->UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
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|->
|->Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/info/terms.html

...
This email is for the intended addressee only.
If you have received it in error then you must not use, retain, disseminate
or otherwise deal with it.  Please notify the sender by return email.
The views of the author may not necessarily constitute the views of Astrium
Limited.
Nothing in this email shall bind Astrium Limited in any contract or obligation.

Astrium Limited, Registered in England and Wales No. 2449259
Registered Office: Gunnels Wood Road, Stevenage, Hertfordshire, SG1 2AS, England

You could fit a fully electronic / microprossessor controlled infra
red proximity lighting control system, or alternatively screw the
pull switch to the ceiling with a couple of rubber washers between
the switch and the ceiling. The noise is probably being amplified by
the ceiling itself - so if you decouple the switch it should be alot
quieter.

> |->
> |->Dear all
> |->
> |->The pull switches we've had installed in our bathrooms are
> |->really noisy.
> |->They didn't sound too bad before they went up but now
> |->they're of 'sonic
> |->boom' proportions!  This is driving me nuts and we haven't
> |->even moved in
> |->yet!
> |->
> |->Anyone suggest the quietest on the market?
> |->
> |->Many thanks
> |->Richard.
> |->
> |->
> |->To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> |->UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@y...
> |->The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> |->To contact the moderator eMail: Rick.Hughes@a...
> |->
> |->
> |->Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> |->http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/info/terms.html
> |->
> |->
> |->
> |->
> |->
> |->
> |->
> |->This e-mail is confidential and may contain legally
> |->privileged information.  If you are not the intended
> |->recipient, you should not copy, distribute, disclose or use
> |->the information it contains.  Please e-mail the sender
> |->immediately and delete this message from your system.
> |->E-mails are susceptible to corruption, interception and
> |->unauthorised amendment; we do not accept liability for any
> |->such changes, or for their consequences. You should be aware
> |->that Lafarge may monitor your emails and their content.
> |->
> |->
> |->To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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> |->
> |->
> |->Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
> http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/info/terms.html
>
> ...
> This email is for the intended addressee only.
> If you have received it in error then you must not use, retain,
disseminate
> or otherwise deal with it.  Please notify the sender by return
email.
> The views of the author may not necessarily constitute the views of
Astrium Limited.
> Nothing in this email shall bind Astrium Limited in any contract or
obligation.
>
> Astrium Limited, Registered in England and Wales No. 2449259
> Registered Office: Gunnels Wood Road, Stevenage, Hertfordshire, SG1
2AS, England

>
> 10 mm £1.69
> 15 mm £1.13
> 22 mm £1.69
> 28 mm £4.31
>
> Plus VAT.

So in 100 metres of 15 mm copper you need 33 joints at 1.13 ( vat =
1.32) and 33 3 metre lengths of copper at 2.78 per length including
vat. total of £135.30.

To save costs you could have solder joints at 2.17 for 10. This gives
a total of £100.42.

100 metres of hep20 barrier pipe costs me £78 from my plumbers
merchant, and with the way my plumbing has been set out a minimal
number of joints would be required. I have over 900 metres of hep20 (
including UFH) and less than 100 joints, none of which are under the
floor. the joints are all either in the airing cupboard, under the
stairs or at the base of taps. This is not possible with copper.

Looking at this, copper is not cheaper than plastic, is more
difficult to fit, and creaks if not fitted properly when expanding or
contracting.

I seem to recall in a previous discussion john saying he was a
computer expert and programmer, seems he has led a pretty full life:)

Jason

Can anyone advise what are the relative advantages of one form of
wall panel insulation over the other and what are the likely costs
for each in a 4 bed detached house with 140mm timber frame.
Thanks,
Ross

----- Original Message -----
From: <EleanorEHewitt@...>
To: <UK_Selfbuild@...>
Sent: 31 July 2002 23:21
Subject: UK_Selfbuild Re: septic tanks & treatment plants


> After getting provisional ok from the environment agency for a septic tank
&
> soak away, it now seems the percolation test may send us back to a
treatment
> plant as the ground is solid clay! Oh well, its only money!!
>
> Anyone care to voice a preference for Klargester v Condor?
>
> Any experiences you'd like to share?
>
> Eleanor
>
>       Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
>


As I think you'll have discovered, there are a few options here. The
simplest and cheapest is probably to run from a septic tank in to soakaway.
When a soakaway is not possible, you can have a septic tank followed by
biological filter device which treats good enough to allow the effluent
discharge direct to a watercourse. Nowadays these come as a single unit
ready to drop into a hole in the ground. They do need electrical power
however.

Failing that, you'll be looking at a cess pool with expensive emptying
costs.

However, it may not be impossible to have a soakaway. If you can dig through
the clay and you're still above the water table, all is not lost. Talk to
your EA on and the suppliers on this. I've known places with deep shaft
soakaways which go below the clay.

Andrew Vevers,

In a message dated 01/08/2002 16:04:18 GMT Daylight Time,
andrewvevers@... writes:


> > After getting provisional ok from the environment agency for a septic tank
> &
> > soak away, it now seems the percolation test may send us back to a
> treatment
> > plant as the ground is solid clay! Oh well, its only money!!
> >
> > Anyone care to voice a preference for Klargester v Condor?
> >
>
> As I think you'll have discovered, there are a few options here. The
> simplest and cheapest is probably to run from a septic tank in to soakaway.
> When a soakaway is not possible, you can have a septic tank followed by
> biological filter device which treats good enough to allow the effluent
> discharge direct to a watercourse. Nowadays these come as a single unit
> ready to drop into a hole in the ground. They do need electrical power
> however.
>
> Failing that, you'll be looking at a cess pool with expensive emptying
> costs.
>
> However, it may not be impossible to have a soakaway. If you can dig
> through
> the clay and you're still above the water table, all is not lost. Talk to
> your EA on and the suppliers on this. I've known places with deep shaft
> soakaways which go below the clay.
>
> Andrew Vevers,

Sounds like its a treatment plant or nothing, as digging down is not a
consideration The level of the beck at the end of the garden runs just below
the level of the foundations. (Not literally!) Little room left. Have
considered herringbone but suspect we would have to cover the whole site.
Treatment plant sounds more effective too.
E


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Richard -

I'd guess you have plasterboard ceilings, and they'\re acting as sounding-boards
--- maybe be some sound-deadening compound added to (poured onto) the top of the
board would help ?

Chris



Richard Butters wrote:

> Dear all
>
> The pull switches we've had installed in our bathrooms are really noisy.
> They didn't sound too bad before they went up but now they're of 'sonic
> boom' proportions!  This is driving me nuts and we haven't even moved in
> yet!
>
> Anyone suggest the quietest on the market?
>
> Many thanks
> Richard

John -

I did, I think .... for reference, the solution seemed to be to rinse all the
sticky
fluid out using some still bottled water (low chlorine!), dry it overnight on
the
radiator (keeping it on), and then running ones hand left & right across all the
keys,
several times, to free them up.   My keyboard is semi-transparent, so I could
check for
freedom from drops & condensation before reconnecting it.

Just in case anyone else does the same !


Chris




"WEBSTER, Edward" wrote:

> Nice one Chris.
>
> I know some people that have spelling like that without
> the aid of a drink first ! lol
>
> Hope you get it sorted.
>
> Cheers,
>     John.
>
> |->-----Original Message-----
> |->From: Chris Hunter [mailto:cjhunter@...]
> |->Sent: 01 August 2002 01:55:AM
>
> <snip>
>
> |->Chris
> |->
> |->
> |->(Sorry for criptic reply ... have spilt my drink over keyboard ... and not
all the
>
> |->keys now work ... and some give ,vbnxzUEPOIRlitple characters ... !   As
you can
> |->see !   Rinsed it under the tap ... it helped ... but was not a
covbnxzplete cure
> ... )

--- In UK_Selfbuild@y..., "jas9288" <jashook@b...> wrote:

> Looking at this, copper is not cheaper
> than plastic, is more difficult to fit,
> and creaks if not fitted properly when expanding or
> contracting.

It looks like you have thought about your installation.  Full marks
there.  My plastic Speedfit creaks.

> I seem to recall in a previous discussion
> john saying he was a computer expert and
> programmer, seems he has led a pretty full life:)

I have. I was also a "comntrols systems specialist". that was the
title, with Honeyweell.

on 1/8/02 3:11 pm, rossjeal at rossjeal@... wrote:

> Can anyone advise what are the relative advantages of one form of
> wall panel insulation over the other and what are the likely costs
> for each in a 4 bed detached house with 140mm timber frame.
> Thanks,
> Ross
>
>


Ross,

We are using Kingspan under the ground-floor screed - Seconds' price for
50mm was actually nearly 60p per sheet more than I could have purchased best
quality for from the Telford Jewsons - but Seconds have a parcel of 75mm
which they offered at the same price as the 50mm so I have gone for that.

For walls and roof insulation we are using 250mm Warmcel for reasons that
Rick explained so well a week or so ago. Totally gap-filling - draughts are
a huge hidden source of heat loss and, as John B-C commented recently, the
area on which the North Americans really concentrate. Even with traditional
- as opposed to I-beam - timber-framing this is a real factor. Accurately
cutting and wedging virtually rigid and thick boards between studs and
rafters (particularly if you have dormers, hips and jack-rafters) without
leaving little gaps here and there is not an easy job to do.

The pro's and con's of cost were thoroughly aired a little while ago...

Bob

Chris

Try watford.com for a new keyboard available from
£5.29 each, probably cheaper than keeping heating on
all night.

DJB

  --- Chris Hunter <cjhunter@...> wrote:
<HR>
<html><body>


<tt>
John -<BR>
<BR>
I did, I think .... for reference, the solution seemed
to be to rinse all the sticky<BR>
fluid out using some still bottled water (low
chlorine!), dry it overnight on the<BR>
radiator (keeping it on), and then running ones hand
left & right across all the keys,<BR>
several times, to free them up.   My
keyboard is semi-transparent, so I could check for<BR>
freedom from drops & condensation before
reconnecting it.<BR>
<BR>
Just in case anyone else does the same !<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
Chris<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
<BR>
"WEBSTER, Edward" wrote:<BR>
<BR>
> Nice one Chris.<BR>
><BR>
> I know some people that have spelling like that
without<BR>
> the aid of a drink first ! lol<BR>
><BR>
> Hope you get it sorted.<BR>
><BR>
> Cheers,<BR>
>     John.<BR>
><BR>
> |->-----Original Message-----<BR>
> |->From: Chris Hunter
[mailto:cjhunter@...]<BR>
> |->Sent: 01 August 2002 01:55:AM<BR>
><BR>
> <snip><BR>
><BR>
> |->Chris<BR>
> |-><BR>
> |-><BR>
> |->(Sorry for criptic reply ... have spilt my
drink over keyboard ... and not all the<BR>
><BR>
> |->keys now work ... and some give
,vbnxzUEPOIRlitple characters ... !   As you
can<BR>
> |->see !   Rinsed it under the tap
... it helped ... but was not a covbnxzplete cure<BR>
> ... )<BR>
<BR>
</tt>

<br>

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__________________________________________________
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> -----Original Message-----
> From: David Bacon
>
>
> Chris
>
> Try watford.com for a new keyboard available from
> £5.29 each, probably cheaper than keeping heating on
> all night.
>
> DJB
>

+

I went home and listened to our pullswitch last night.

Am now forced to agree that it is a bit noisy although I've never really
noticed before so perhaps I am just more tolerant than you.

One further option nobody's suggested yet is that you can use a
conventional wall switch outside the bathroom instead of  your pull switch
(or even as well as if you wire for 2-way switching).


Eric Mears
Chemist LCUK
Hope Works
Derbyshire
S33 6RP

Tel (01433) 622254
Mob 077 14 22 65 12



                       Eric
                       Mears/Hope/Gb/Cement/Lafarge        To:      
UK_Selfbuild@...
                       @BlueCircle                         cc:
                                                           Subject:  Re:
UK_Selfbuild Noisy pull switch
                       01/08/2002 09:55
                       Please respond to
                       UK_Selfbuild






Ours came from screwfix & seem OK (but we might just be more tolerant than
you <g>)

If the noise really bothers you, you might consider fixing a small box
packed with rockwool around the body of the switch or perhaps even
relocating the switch into the roofspace and fitting a very long string

Eric Mears
Chemist LCUK
Hope Works
Derbyshire
S33 6RP

Tel (01433) 622254
Mob 077 14 22 65 12


                       Richard Butters
                       <Richard.Butters@        To:       Self Build
<UK_Selfbuild@...>
                       tesco.net>               cc:
                                                Subject:  UK_Selfbuild Noisy
pull switch
                       01/08/2002 09:44
                       Please respond to
                       UK_Selfbuild



Dear all

The pull switches we've had installed in our bathrooms are really noisy.
They didn't sound too bad before they went up but now they're of 'sonic
boom' proportions!  This is driving me nuts and we haven't even moved in
yet!

Anyone suggest the quietest on the market?

Many thanks
Richard.


To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
To contact the moderator eMail: Rick.Hughes@...


Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/info/terms.html







This e-mail is confidential and may contain legally privileged information.
If you are not the intended recipient, you should not copy, distribute,
disclose or use the information it contains.  Please e-mail the sender
immediately and delete this message from your system.  E-mails are
susceptible to corruption, interception and unauthorised amendment; we do
not accept liability for any such changes, or for their consequences. You
should be aware that Lafarge may monitor your emails and their content.


To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
To contact the moderator eMail: Rick.Hughes@...


Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/info/terms.html

What have folk been paying for blocks?

Just had a quote thru -

100mm 4Kn £6.20
100mm 7Kn £7.55
250mm 4Kn £15.50
250mm 7Kn £18.87

All per m2 price and other sizes pro rata with the 100mm and are for full
load deliveries in London.

Stephen


----- Original Message -----
From: Bob Justham <bobjustham@...>
To: <UK_Selfbuild@...>
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 10:49 PM
Subject: Re: UK_Selfbuild Warmcell Vs Kingspan


> on 1/8/02 3:11 pm, rossjeal at rossjeal@... wrote:
>
> > Can anyone advise what are the relative advantages of one form of
> > wall panel insulation over the other and what are the likely costs
> > for each in a 4 bed detached house with 140mm timber frame.
> > Thanks,
> > Ross
> >
> >
>
>
> Ross,
>
> We are using Kingspan under the ground-floor screed - Seconds' price for
> 50mm was actually nearly 60p per sheet more than I could have purchased
best
> quality for from the Telford Jewsons - but Seconds have a parcel of 75mm
> which they offered at the same price as the 50mm so I have gone for that.
>
> For walls and roof insulation we are using 250mm Warmcel for reasons that
> Rick explained so well a week or so ago. Totally gap-filling - draughts
are
> a huge hidden source of heat loss and, as John B-C commented recently, the
> area on which the North Americans really concentrate. Even with
traditional
> - as opposed to I-beam - timber-framing this is a real factor. Accurately
> cutting and wedging virtually rigid and thick boards between studs and
> rafters (particularly if you have dormers, hips and jack-rafters) without
> leaving little gaps here and there is not an easy job to do.
>
> The pro's and con's of cost were thoroughly aired a little while ago...
>
> Bob
>
>
>
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>
>
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>
>

Hi Richard,

I think I've found the quietest pull switch in the world. ;o)

Just finishing renovating my bathroom and installed 6 low voltage halogens.
What I desperately wanted was some way of dimming them so bought a DimPull.
Not only does it work a treat (ranges from 50 to 250 watts) it's also is
really quiet. You just need to educate your family to pull it gently as it
takes very little effort to activate it hence the low noise levels.

WARNING: Don't get one from DimPull direct as they will sting you for £30
while you can buy one through TLC for £17.99. Not exactly cheap but just
think of all the fun you'll have bathing in the semi darkness. Now where's
that soap gone now?.......;o)

Here's some links:

http://www.dimpull.co.uk
http://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Main_Index/Wiring_Accessories_Menu_Index/Wiring_
Accessories~Dimmers_All/Dimpull/index.html

Steve


----- Original Message -----
From: "Richard Butters" <Richard.Butters@...>
To: "Self Build" <UK_Selfbuild@...>
Sent: Thursday, August 01, 2002 9:44 AM
Subject: UK_Selfbuild Noisy pull switch


> Dear all
>
> The pull switches we've had installed in our bathrooms are really noisy.
> They didn't sound too bad before they went up but now they're of 'sonic
> boom' proportions!  This is driving me nuts and we haven't even moved in
> yet!
>
> Anyone suggest the quietest on the market?
>
> Many thanks
> Richard.
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick.Hughes@...
>
>
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Thanks for all the comments.  I'll try playing with rubber (don't know what
the wife will say ;-)
UFH prevents recessing the switch though.
I'll also keep pulling random switches when in shops and get a strange name
for myself!

Cheers
Richard

----- Original Message -----
From: <Eric.Mears@...>
To: <UK_Selfbuild@...>
Sent: 02 August 2002 08:53
Subject: Re: UK_Selfbuild Noisy pull switch


>
> I went home and listened to our pullswitch last night.
>
> Am now forced to agree that it is a bit noisy although I've never really
> noticed before so perhaps I am just more tolerant than you.
>
> One further option nobody's suggested yet is that you can use a
> conventional wall switch outside the bathroom instead of  your pull switch
> (or even as well as if you wire for 2-way switching).
>
>
> Eric Mears
> Chemist LCUK
> Hope Works
> Derbyshire
> S33 6RP
>
> Tel (01433) 622254
> Mob 077 14 22 65 12
>
>
>
>                       Eric
>                       Mears/Hope/Gb/Cement/Lafarge        To:
UK_Selfbuild@...
>                       @BlueCircle                         cc:
>                                                           Subject:  Re:
UK_Selfbuild Noisy pull switch
>                       01/08/2002 09:55
>                       Please respond to
>                       UK_Selfbuild
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Ours came from screwfix & seem OK (but we might just be more tolerant than
> you <g>)
>
> If the noise really bothers you, you might consider fixing a small box
> packed with rockwool around the body of the switch or perhaps even
> relocating the switch into the roofspace and fitting a very long string
>
> Eric Mears
> Chemist LCUK
> Hope Works
> Derbyshire
> S33 6RP
>
> Tel (01433) 622254
> Mob 077 14 22 65 12
>
>
>                       Richard Butters
>                       <Richard.Butters@        To:       Self Build
> <UK_Selfbuild@...>
>                       tesco.net>               cc:
>                                                Subject:  UK_Selfbuild
Noisy
> pull switch
>                       01/08/2002 09:44
>                       Please respond to
>                       UK_Selfbuild
>
>
>
> Dear all
>
> The pull switches we've had installed in our bathrooms are really noisy.
> They didn't sound too bad before they went up but now they're of 'sonic
> boom' proportions!  This is driving me nuts and we haven't even moved in
> yet!
>
> Anyone suggest the quietest on the market?
>
> Many thanks
> Richard.
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick.Hughes@...
>
>
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> http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/info/terms.html
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>
>
>
>
>
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----- Original Message -----
From: <EleanorEHewitt@...>
To: <UK_Selfbuild@...>
Sent: 01 August 2002 17:01
Subject: Re: UK_Selfbuild Re: septic tanks & treatment plants


> In a message dated 01/08/2002 16:04:18 GMT Daylight Time,
> andrewvevers@... writes:
>
>
> Sounds like its a treatment plant or nothing, as digging down is not a
> consideration The level of the beck at the end of the garden runs just
below
> the level of the foundations. (Not literally!) Little room left. Have
> considered herringbone but suspect we would have to cover the whole site.
> Treatment plant sounds more effective too.
> E


OK but as this is a self build group have you looked into building your own
system? To be honest it's a lot less hassle dropping a Klargester in and
it'll probably work better, but a brick built septic tank and filter are not
that complicated, at least not for anybody contemplating building a house.
The main item you'll need to hunt for is the device which distributes the
settled sewage onto the biological filter, and I've seen home made versions
of these.

Get hold of British Standard BS6297 "Design and installation of small sewage
treatment works and cesspools" which will give you the low down.

Andrew

Just a reminder on how to join to join the UK_Selfbuild group - been asked to
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Moderator, UK_Selfbuild

To contact me direct please email: Rick.Hughes@...

> OK but as this is a self build group have you looked into building your own
> system? To be honest it's a lot less hassle dropping a Klargester in and
> it'll probably work better, but a brick built septic tank and filter are not
> that complicated, at least not for anybody contemplating building a house.

With a basic Klargester costing around the 500quid mark, I would have
thought building your own septic tank makes about as much sense as baking
your own bricks or growing your own insulation on a flock of sheep.

But if your point about it not being complicated for anyone building a house
is valid (and it seems plausible) then the other side of the coin must be
that we shouldn't bother building conventional brick houses at all but
should instead opt for giant above-ground Klargesters, decorated with the
odd window and doorway and maybe with some wysteria trained over the GRP
shell.

Actually I think this is exactly what the Egan agenda and the Housing Forum
wants us to do! I say this becuse I am just ploughing through a publication
called Homing in on Excellence and subtitled (snappily) A Commentary on the
Use of Offsite Fabrication Methods for the UK Housebuilding Industry. It's
actually a fascinating read but I am left perplexed as to why the whole
off-site fabrication scene is being so heavily promoted by the Government
through its various quangos such as the Housing Forum. If it's that good,
why does it need official promotion?


--Mark Brinkley
Weston Colville, Cambs



----------
>From: "Andrew Vevers" <andrewvevers@...>
>To: <UK_Selfbuild@...>
>Subject: Re: UK_Selfbuild Re: septic tanks & treatment plants
>Date: Fri, Aug 2, 2002, 5:36 pm
>

Mark -

> Homing in on Excellence - A Commentary on the Use of Offsite Fabrication
Methods
for the UK Housebuilding Industry

... is there a link to an on-line version ... ?


Chris



Mark Brinkley wrote:

> > OK but as this is a self build group have you looked into building your own
> > system? To be honest it's a lot less hassle dropping a Klargester in and
> > it'll probably work better, but a brick built septic tank and filter are not
> > that complicated, at least not for anybody contemplating building a house.
>
> With a basic Klargester costing around the 500quid mark, I would have
> thought building your own septic tank makes about as much sense as baking
> your own bricks or growing your own insulation on a flock of sheep.
>
> But if your point about it not being complicated for anyone building a house
> is valid (and it seems plausible) then the other side of the coin must be
> that we shouldn't bother building conventional brick houses at all but
> should instead opt for giant above-ground Klargesters, decorated with the
> odd window and doorway and maybe with some wysteria trained over the GRP
> shell.
>
> Actually I think this is exactly what the Egan agenda and the Housing Forum
> wants us to do! I say this becuse I am just ploughing through a publication
> called Homing in on Excellence and subtitled (snappily) A Commentary on the
> Use of Offsite Fabrication Methods for the UK Housebuilding Industry. It's
> actually a fascinating read but I am left perplexed as to why the whole
> off-site fabrication scene is being so heavily promoted by the Government
> through its various quangos such as the Housing Forum. If it's that good,
> why does it need official promotion?
>
> --Mark Brinkley
> Weston Colville, Cambs

Chris,

The housing forum has a website at
www.thehousingforum.org.uk

The book (actaully at 81 pages more a booklet) is £25.00. Doesn't appear to
have an ISBN. I expect much of the stuff is on the webiste anyway.


-- Mark Brinkley
Rodelia Books
www.rodelia.co.uk


----------
>From: Chris Hunter <cjhunter@...>
>To: UK_Selfbuild@...
>Subject: Re: UK_Selfbuild Could you live in a septic tank?
>Date: Sat, Aug 3, 2002, 3:45 am
>

> Mark -
>
>> Homing in on Excellence - A Commentary on the Use of Offsite Fabrication
Methods
> for the UK Housebuilding Industry
>
> ... is there a link to an on-line version ... ?
>
>
> Chris
>
>
>
> Mark Brinkley wrote:
>
>> > OK but as this is a self build group have you looked into building your own
>> > system? To be honest it's a lot less hassle dropping a Klargester in and
>> > it'll probably work better, but a brick built septic tank and filter are
not
>> > that complicated, at least not for anybody contemplating building a house.
>>
>> With a basic Klargester costing around the 500quid mark, I would have
>> thought building your own septic tank makes about as much sense as baking
>> your own bricks or growing your own insulation on a flock of sheep.
>>
>> But if your point about it not being complicated for anyone building a house
>> is valid (and it seems plausible) then the other side of the coin must be
>> that we shouldn't bother building conventional brick houses at all but
>> should instead opt for giant above-ground Klargesters, decorated with the
>> odd window and doorway and maybe with some wysteria trained over the GRP
>> shell.
>>
>> Actually I think this is exactly what the Egan agenda and the Housing Forum
>> wants us to do! I say this becuse I am just ploughing through a publication
>> called Homing in on Excellence and subtitled (snappily) A Commentary on the
>> Use of Offsite Fabrication Methods for the UK Housebuilding Industry. It's
>> actually a fascinating read but I am left perplexed as to why the whole
>> off-site fabrication scene is being so heavily promoted by the Government
>> through its various quangos such as the Housing Forum. If it's that good,
>> why does it need official promotion?
>>
>> --Mark Brinkley
>> Weston Colville, Cambs
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick.Hughes@...
>
>
> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to
http://uk.docs.yahoo.com/info/terms.html
>
>

> > OK but as this is a self build group have you looked into building your
own
> > system? To be honest it's a lot less hassle dropping a Klargester in and
> > it'll probably work better, but a brick built septic tank and filter are
not
> > that complicated, at least not for anybody contemplating building a
house.
>
> With a basic Klargester costing around the 500quid mark, I would have
> thought building your own septic tank makes about as much sense as baking
> your own bricks or growing your own insulation on a flock of sheep.
>


I agree - and maybe there are even cheaper tanks we could convert which
would be more house like.

The Klargester I have in mind though is one of those containing a rotating
biological contacter. This has a series of rotating disks which dip into the
sewage, and bacteria do the job, purifying the liquid. This replaces the old
bed of stone chippings. Unfortunately we're looking at something which will
cost around £10,000 depending on size, so you might think it's worth
building your own version.

Andy

Do the Klargester Biodiscs cost as much as £10k?
I didn't realise that they were that expensive.

Tracey

> The Klargester I have in mind though is one of those containing a rotating
> biological contacter. This has a series of rotating disks which dip into
the
> sewage, and bacteria do the job, purifying the liquid. This replaces the
old
> bed of stone chippings. Unfortunately we're looking at something which
will
> cost around £10,000 depending on size, so you might think it's worth
> building your own version.

Just following the converstaion about the cost of the Klargester BioDisc. I
was quoted about £2200 plus the dreaded VAT for the 6 person BioDisc and that
sort of price was confirmed by Klargester at the Self Build show at the NEC.
£10,000 sounds horrendous; - are we talking about a hotel or something?!

Wayne Jackson

Can anyone advise where I can get Tri Phosphor Tubes of 210mm in length?


Regards,

Augustine Amusan

mailto:a.amusan@... <mailto:a.amusan@...>




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hello Eric

I wonder if you can give us some idea of the cost of your Balmoral "CAP"

Regards

Tracey