I need to install an oven, gas hob and extractor hood.

I note that the oven says it needs a double pole switch but it doesn't
say what amp it needs to be?

It is a new Zanussi single oven.

However it does say in the connection - connection via 13A socket
outlet , 13 A spur box or cooker control circuit min 15A max 25A.

Currently my kitchen does not have its own ring. It is run off the
main socket ring.

Is this going to be OK? Am I required to have a switch above the
counter? If so does it need to be 32amp DP switch?

Or is it saying that it will run off a 13A socket outlet? Therefore
could I chuck a plug on it and plug it into a DP 13A double socket?

Same question applies to the electrics for the gas hob as well and the
extractor hood.

Thanks

Ho Yin

My water meter makes a huge racket when water is flowing through it! It
knocks and taps like mad as the propellers are turning.

So if I ring them and ask them to come out does it mean I have to pay a call
out charge??

Is this noise normal or should it be silent?

Ho Yin

On 31/12/2007, Rex <rex-butcher@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks for the replies. Was not really posting to seek an answer,
> just to highlight the stupidity of these organizations.
>
> If push comes to shove, I will write but hopefully, the issue has been
> resolved.
>
> Water is no longer following into the house as the main (internal) tap
> is off. I want them to check (what I believe to be) their meter but
> there is a 'call-out' charge if the customer request this and then a
> repair charge, etc, etc, etc.
>
> When I mentioned that the meter pit was full of water and it was not
> from rain, then she agreed that someone would come and take a look. I
> never agreed to a charge and if they do send a bill, I will certainly
> a/ not pay it and b/ talk with or write to the head honcho.
>
> Rex
>
> --- In UK_Selfbuild@... <UK_Selfbuild%40yahoogroups.co.uk>,
> Eric Mears <Eric.Mears@...> wrote:
> >
> >
> > Write to them expressing dissatisfaction with this stupid answer.
> >
> > Advise them in writing (preferably using recorded delivery) that the
> meter
> > is faulty, the current reading is (whatever) and that you accept no
> > responsibility for any future alleged consumption.
> >
> > If it's actually in your way or causing a leak within your premises,
> write
> > another letter telling them that it has been removed to a secure storage
> > area and its feed pipe capped.
> >
> > Save copies to send to OFWAT in due course.
> >
> > HTH
> >
> >
> > Eric Mears
> > CHESTERFIELD
> > Derbyshire
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: UK_Selfbuild@... <UK_Selfbuild%40yahoogroups.co.uk>
> [mailto:UK_Selfbuild@... <UK_Selfbuild%40yahoogroups.co.uk>]
> > On Behalf Of Rex
> > Sent: 31 December 2007 09:54
> > To: SelfBuildHouse
> > Subject: UK_Selfbuild Who owns the meter?
> >
> > Hi there,
> >
> > Here's an interesting thing; or I think it is.
> >
> > We pop in and out of the house we are going to demolish and because
> it is
> > useful to have
> > the toilet working, have not turned the water off yet. But that has
> lead to
> > a compression
> > T joint blowing off which has brought the kitchen ceiling down. No
> problem,
> > turned the
> > water off at the roadside meter. And happy that the house wants to
> demolish
> > itself which
> > will save some money!
> >
> > One week later, went to check and there is still water leaking and more
> > ceiling down.
> > Checked the mains again and I cannot turn it any more off. About
> one mug of
> > water per 30
> > seconds coming from the kitchen tap, so demolished some kitchen
> cabinets to
> > get to the
> > mains tap and that has stopped the flow.
> >
> > Today, called the water company to complain about their leaking
> tap/meter as
> > I don't want
> > to pay for water that should have been stopped at the mains tap.
> There is a
> > charge for
> > them to come and check the meter/tap if a customer requests it as
> they don't
> > own the
> > meter.
> >
> > The conversation was interesting; Who owns the meter? Don't know.
> > Do I own
> > it? No! If you don't own it and I don't own it, when I
> > rebuild, can I take
> > it out and install it somewhere more accessible? No, because you
> don't own
> > it.
> > But neither do you? That's right. We (the water
> > company) are
> > responsible for all the pipes and meters, etc that we installed.
> But you
> > did not install
> > the mains pipes or meters in the road as they were there before you took
> > ownership of the
> > company. Yes, but now we own them and they are our responsibility.
> So you
> > do have
> > responsibility for the meter. No.
> >
> > Talk about Catch 22!
> >
> > Rex
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Just a reminder on how to join to join the UK_Selfbuild group - been asked to
re-post this for people who wish to send to colleagues etc.


The UK_Selfbuild group is an internet based group hosted by YahooGroups, a free,
easy-to-use email group service.

JOIN NOW, IT'S EASY - the simplest way is to go the eGroups web site and you
will be prompted to join - at which time you can select individual emails,
digest format or web based :
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/UK_Selfbuild/

Or simply send a blank email to: UK_Selfbuild-subscribe@yahoogroups.com

By joining UK_Selfbuild, you will be able to exchange messages with other group
members.
YahooGroups also makes it easy to store photos and files, co-ordinate events and
more.

Here's an introductory message from the group moderator:
----------------------------------------------------------------------


Hello,

Welcome to the UK_Selfbuild group at YahooGroups, a free, easy-to-use email
group service.
Please take a moment to review this message.
Once you are a member to start sending messages to members of this group, simply
send email to: UK_Selfbuild@yahoogroups.com

If you do not wish to belong to UK_Selfbuild, you may unsubscribe by sending an
email to
UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@yahoogroups.com

You may also visit the YahooGroups web site to modify your subscriptions:
http://groups.yahoo.com/group/UK_Selfbuild/

There is a Selfbuild FAQ available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk


Regards,

Rick Hughes
Moderator, UK_Selfbuild

To contact me direct please email: Rick_Hughes@...

> Hi there
>
> We are planning to have UFH on a screeded ground floor of a timber frame
> house.
> Construction will be 180mm studs, filled with Warmcell and block and
> render external.
>
> I want UFH on the first floor but SWMBO reckons that we can save
> considerable money by
> having regular (or designer?) radiators.  Apparently, everyone she has
> spoken with (oh
> yeah, she is talking UFH with all her friends!) say that UFH on the first
> floor and in the
> bedrooms is slow to respond and radiators are better/faster.  My argument
> is that UFH
> should be running most of the time as background heat.  She counters by
> saying that if we
> go away (will we be able to afford it?) UFH will take a long time to heat
> the place upon
> our return; or if there is a cold snap, UFH will not provide heat now.
>
> My hope is a well insulated, thermally efficient house will not need too
> much heating
> upstairs, in which case, her argument is to save money with radiators.
>
> Never having lived in a house with UFH, what is the general consensus?
> Any views on the
> cost saving of radiators v. UFH?
>
> Many thanks and Happy New Year.
>
> Rex

Our extension is about the same spec as your design. We have 250mm of
Warmcell in the roof, walls are 170mm. Wet UFH downstairs set in screed,
topped with terracotta tiles.

We went for no heating upstairs apart from the towel rail and electric UFH
(about 320W) in the en-suite.

It works amazingly well.

Even in the cold snap we didn't feel the need for heating upstairs.

Like some other posters, I don't know where we'd put radiators; being able
to design without having large chunks of wall out of bounds is a great
bonus.

Don't know if this helps at all,
     Richard

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1205 - Release Date: 31/12/2007
15:32

In answer to Andy's question, the company is 3 Valleys.

Ho Yin, based upon my conversation, if there is apparently little or
nothing wrong with the meter, 3 Valleys will charge to check it.
However, at the moment, I think because the meter pot fills with water
by itself and not from rain, they are coming to check with no charge.
  If they charge me, I do not pay.

My meter has a plastic T for the tap fitting.  I don't like to turn it
too much for fear of snapping it.  Was told that they used to be metal
but metal corrodes and jams, so all the new meters/shut-off valves are
plastic.

As an aside, was recently on a week break in Tenerife and being a sad
individual, noticed that the water meter and tap for all new houses is
in a nice clean box with glass front, mounted on the perimeter wall.
Stays dry, is clean and easily accessible.  Just the way they should be.

Rex


--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "Ho Yin Ng"
<architect.hoyin@...> wrote:
>
> My water meter makes a huge racket when water is flowing through it! It
> knocks and taps like mad as the propellers are turning.
>
> So if I ring them and ask them to come out does it mean I have to
pay a call
> out charge??
>
> Is this noise normal or should it be silent?
>
> Ho Yin
>
> On 31/12/2007, Rex <rex-butcher@...> wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for the replies. Was not really posting to seek an answer,
> > just to highlight the stupidity of these organizations.
> >
> > If push comes to shove, I will write but hopefully, the issue has been
> > resolved.
> >
> > Water is no longer following into the house as the main (internal) tap
> > is off. I want them to check (what I believe to be) their meter but
> > there is a 'call-out' charge if the customer request this and then a
> > repair charge, etc, etc, etc.
> >
> > When I mentioned that the meter pit was full of water and it was not
> > from rain, then she agreed that someone would come and take a look. I
> > never agreed to a charge and if they do send a bill, I will certainly
> > a/ not pay it and b/ talk with or write to the head honcho.
> >
> > Rex
> >
> > --- In UK_Selfbuild@...
<UK_Selfbuild%40yahoogroups.co.uk>,
> > Eric Mears <Eric.Mears@> wrote:
> > >
> > >
> > > Write to them expressing dissatisfaction with this stupid answer.
> > >
> > > Advise them in writing (preferably using recorded delivery) that the
> > meter
> > > is faulty, the current reading is (whatever) and that you accept no
> > > responsibility for any future alleged consumption.
> > >
> > > If it's actually in your way or causing a leak within your premises,
> > write
> > > another letter telling them that it has been removed to a secure
storage
> > > area and its feed pipe capped.
> > >
> > > Save copies to send to OFWAT in due course.
> > >
> > > HTH
> > >
> > >
> > > Eric Mears
> > > CHESTERFIELD
> > > Derbyshire
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: UK_Selfbuild@...
<UK_Selfbuild%40yahoogroups.co.uk>
> > [mailto:UK_Selfbuild@...
<UK_Selfbuild%40yahoogroups.co.uk>]
> > > On Behalf Of Rex
> > > Sent: 31 December 2007 09:54
> > > To: SelfBuildHouse
> > > Subject: UK_Selfbuild Who owns the meter?
> > >
> > > Hi there,
> > >
> > > Here's an interesting thing; or I think it is.
> > >
> > > We pop in and out of the house we are going to demolish and because
> > it is
> > > useful to have
> > > the toilet working, have not turned the water off yet. But that has
> > lead to
> > > a compression
> > > T joint blowing off which has brought the kitchen ceiling down. No
> > problem,
> > > turned the
> > > water off at the roadside meter. And happy that the house wants to
> > demolish
> > > itself which
> > > will save some money!
> > >
> > > One week later, went to check and there is still water leaking
and more
> > > ceiling down.
> > > Checked the mains again and I cannot turn it any more off. About
> > one mug of
> > > water per 30
> > > seconds coming from the kitchen tap, so demolished some kitchen
> > cabinets to
> > > get to the
> > > mains tap and that has stopped the flow.
> > >
> > > Today, called the water company to complain about their leaking
> > tap/meter as
> > > I don't want
> > > to pay for water that should have been stopped at the mains tap.
> > There is a
> > > charge for
> > > them to come and check the meter/tap if a customer requests it as
> > they don't
> > > own the
> > > meter.
> > >
> > > The conversation was interesting; Who owns the meter? Don't know.
> > > Do I own
> > > it? No! If you don't own it and I don't own it, when I
> > > rebuild, can I take
> > > it out and install it somewhere more accessible? No, because you
> > don't own
> > > it.
> > > But neither do you? That's right. We (the water
> > > company) are
> > > responsible for all the pipes and meters, etc that we installed.
> > But you
> > > did not install
> > > the mains pipes or meters in the road as they were there before
you took
> > > ownership of the
> > > company. Yes, but now we own them and they are our responsibility.
> > So you
> > > do have
> > > responsibility for the meter. No.
> > >
> > > Talk about Catch 22!
> > >
> > > Rex
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

I am building a 5 bed house over 3 levels (to include basement which will
contain 2 beds, 2en suites,  kitchen and lounge). I am going to UFH the G/F,
rads upstairs. I am a little undecided on the basement heating though, the
basement is to be a Thermonex precast job. Simplicity and cost savings point
towards rads in the basement, and I suspect that it will be warmish anyway
being buried in the ground. Anyone with a basement or knowledge car to
comment?



Craig







[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

In a message dated 01/01/2008 14:58:39 GMT Standard Time,
rex-butcher@... writes:

So if  I ring them and ask them to come out does it mean I have to
pay a  call
> out charge??



Hi,

Get a neighbour to write in and complain about the flooding.

602






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Ho Yin

To answer your questions backwards:

The gas hob and extractor take a trivial amount of power, I'd guess at
10W and 100W respectively. Use either a fused switch or a plug and
socket with a 3A fuse.

For the oven, everything depends on how powerful it is. Somewhere on
it will be a label giving the power - I think the Whirlpool oven I
have just fitted in our kitchen is about 2kW, this is less than a
kettle and can easily be dealt with by a 13A fused switch (I think
they are usually DP) or plug/socket (which is what I have used - they
are permitted for isolation up to 16A if I remember correctly)

The question of whether this will put too much load on the power ring
is certainly worth asking and seeing what other demands there are but
I would be surprised if there was a problem, the extra load is not
that great.

I do not believe there is a requirement to have the isolation switch
anywhere in particular, just reasonably accessable.

HTH

Nick

--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "Ho Yin Ng"
<architect.hoyin@...> wrote:
>
> I need to install an oven, gas hob and extractor hood.
>
> I note that the oven says it needs a double pole switch but it doesn't
> say what amp it needs to be?
>
> It is a new Zanussi single oven.
>
> However it does say in the connection - connection via 13A socket
> outlet , 13 A spur box or cooker control circuit min 15A max 25A.
>
> Currently my kitchen does not have its own ring. It is run off the
> main socket ring.
>
> Is this going to be OK? Am I required to have a switch above the
> counter? If so does it need to be 32amp DP switch?
>
> Or is it saying that it will run off a 13A socket outlet? Therefore
> could I chuck a plug on it and plug it into a DP 13A double socket?
>
> Same question applies to the electrics for the gas hob as well and the
> extractor hood.
>
> Thanks
>
> Ho Yin
>

Craig,



Are house is over three floors, four if you count the loft...



The lowest floor is a full basement (fully under the ground).



We did install UFH in most of the basement but have found that it hasn't
been needed so far this year... There is a heat source in the form of an
electrical equipment room which produces a significant amount of heat, I
also have the boiler and Thermal store in the basement as well.



We do constantly change the air using the MVHR unit.



The area is made up of a Cinema / Bar / Party area and a Games room.
Last night with 30 odd people in the basement the temperature reached 25
odd degrees, I am seriously considering Air Con but don't want to pay to
waste heat!!! Maybe if we had more ventilation available we would be
able to cope in the winter but if we are going to get ambient
temperatures outside of 25 plus in the summer I'm not sure how effective
that could be. The Cinema does seem to hover around the 21 degrees most
of the time (without using the UFH).



During the 'Party' we had a Bar fridge, Down-lighters, Disco Lights, Pin
Ball Machine, Amplifier, TVs and CRT Projector along with the boiler and
equipment room...



I suppose I am saying it very much depends on how you will use the
space.



Nigel



Some idea of the space here

http://photos.corbenic.co.uk/dcp02115jpg.html





-----Original Message-----
From: Craig Stephenson [mailto:cjstephenson@...]
Sent: 01 January 2008 16:00
To: UK_Selfbuild@...
Subject: UK_Selfbuild Re: UFH (again)



I am building a 5 bed house over 3 levels (to include basement which
will
contain 2 beds, 2en suites, kitchen and lounge). I am going to UFH the
G/F,
rads upstairs. I am a little undecided on the basement heating though,
the
basement is to be a Thermonex precast job. Simplicity and cost savings
point
towards rads in the basement, and I suspect that it will be warmish
anyway
being buried in the ground. Anyone with a basement or knowledge car to
comment?

Craig

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I know nothing about floortiling, over wet underfloor heating in
screed.What ive gathered so far is I need to use Bal rapidset flex
adhesive, Its rapidly becoming clear to me this can be truly
horrendously expensive.Does any one have an idear of what price i
should be aiming for when i negotiate my tiles from topps, i think it
starts around the £47 mark? Cheers,Jess.

Just looked in the manual. It is apparently 2,500W.

So if this being the case a simple 13 A plug socket should be fine. Just
need to make sure it is a double pole switch.

Ho Yin

On 01/01/2008, buildingstoat <nick@...> wrote:
>
>   Ho Yin
>
> To answer your questions backwards:
>
> The gas hob and extractor take a trivial amount of power, I'd guess at
> 10W and 100W respectively. Use either a fused switch or a plug and
> socket with a 3A fuse.
>
> For the oven, everything depends on how powerful it is. Somewhere on
> it will be a label giving the power - I think the Whirlpool oven I
> have just fitted in our kitchen is about 2kW, this is less than a
> kettle and can easily be dealt with by a 13A fused switch (I think
> they are usually DP) or plug/socket (which is what I have used - they
> are permitted for isolation up to 16A if I remember correctly)
>
> The question of whether this will put too much load on the power ring
> is certainly worth asking and seeing what other demands there are but
> I would be surprised if there was a problem, the extra load is not
> that great.
>
> I do not believe there is a requirement to have the isolation switch
> anywhere in particular, just reasonably accessable.
>
> HTH
>
> Nick
>
> --- In UK_Selfbuild@... <UK_Selfbuild%40yahoogroups.co.uk>,
> "Ho Yin Ng"
> <architect.hoyin@...> wrote:
> >
> > I need to install an oven, gas hob and extractor hood.
> >
> > I note that the oven says it needs a double pole switch but it doesn't
> > say what amp it needs to be?
> >
> > It is a new Zanussi single oven.
> >
> > However it does say in the connection - connection via 13A socket
> > outlet , 13 A spur box or cooker control circuit min 15A max 25A.
> >
> > Currently my kitchen does not have its own ring. It is run off the
> > main socket ring.
> >
> > Is this going to be OK? Am I required to have a switch above the
> > counter? If so does it need to be 32amp DP switch?
> >
> > Or is it saying that it will run off a 13A socket outlet? Therefore
> > could I chuck a plug on it and plug it into a DP 13A double socket?
> >
> > Same question applies to the electrics for the gas hob as well and the
> > extractor hood.
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Ho Yin
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I found these guys to be a lot cheaper:

http://www.trades-direct.co.uk/modules/shop/products.asp?rangeid=104

Though they don't have the rapidset, but they might be able to get it. Or
you could just use PTB Flexible.

Ho Yin

On 01/01/2008, jeremy6844 <jess.clarke6@...> wrote:
>
>   I know nothing about floortiling, over wet underfloor heating in
> screed.What ive gathered so far is I need to use Bal rapidset flex
> adhesive, Its rapidly becoming clear to me this can be truly
> horrendously expensive.Does any one have an idear of what price i
> should be aiming for when i negotiate my tiles from topps, i think it
> starts around the £47 mark? Cheers,Jess.
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "jeremy6844"
<jess.clarke6@...> wrote:
>
> I know nothing about floortiling, over wet underfloor heating in
> screed.What ive gathered so far is I need to use Bal rapidset flex
> adhesive, Its rapidly becoming clear to me this can be truly
> horrendously expensive.Does any one have an idear of what price i
> should be aiming for when i negotiate my tiles from topps, i think
it
> starts around the £47 mark? Cheers,Jess.
>
Hi Jess

I pay £27 inc vat for 20kg - locally arranged price so probably not
helpful unless you are near Edinburgh.

Trades direct http://www.trades-
direct.co.uk/modules/shop/products.asp?rangeid=104 seem to have a
deal at the moment for 2 bags of white at £46.40, not sure about VAT
& carriage. £25.33 each for grey.

You could also try a local Porcelenosa - their stuff seems to be
manufactured by BAL, and can be quite competitive.

Cheers
Colin

Hello, We are looking to begin a self build and tightly budgeted project mid
summer and are
gathering items that need securing on the property.  Does anyone have a shipping
container
they no longer need.  We will most probably need it for a year and are willing
to pass it on
once finished with our project!  Any leads would be greatly appreciated.   We
are located just
outside Stamford /Grantham in Lincolnshire. Thanks.

This from the Green Buiding Forum. Anyone interested should contact
direct.

http://www.sustainconstruction.com/TC_Project.html

or email Steve at RoofKreteTC@...

No connection to me.

Derrick

Chris Hunter wrote:
> David -
>
> have a look at :
>
> http://www.maxbotix.com/
>
> 'tis what we have in-mind to use for this ...
>
> Chris

Try:
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=3\
395395
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0\
218995

Pricey (£42 for the sensor) but mountable under the bath (if it's plastic)

(sorry about the delay RS website has been down for a few days)

David

Hello,
I believe that this message was intended for someone else and was sent to me in
error.
Regards,
Dee
________________________________
> To: UK_Selfbuild@...
> From: david@...
> Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 17:52:31 +0000
> Subject: Re: UK_Selfbuild Electric water valve for bath tap
>
>
> Chris Hunter wrote:
>> David -
>>
>> have a look at :
>>
>> http://www.maxbotix.com/
>>
>> 'tis what we have in-mind to use for this ...
>>
>> Chris
>
> Try:
>
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=3\
395395
>
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0\
218995
>
> Pricey (£42 for the sensor) but mountable under the bath (if it's plastic)
>
> (sorry about the delay RS website has been down for a few days)
>
> David
>
>
> Messages in this topic
_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today it's FREE!
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

dawsen Wadcott wrote:
> Hello,
> I believe that this message was intended for someone else and was sent to me
in error.
> Regards,
> Dee

Hi Dee

These messages are from people on the UK Selfbuild email list.

If you don't want them then follow the 'unsubscribe' instructions below.

David

Disregard my earlier message as it was sent in error.  My apologies.

Dee
________________________________
> To: uk_selfbuild@...
> From: sendaw@...
> Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 14:39:12 -0400
> Subject: RE: UK_Selfbuild Electric water valve for bath tap
>
>
> Hello,
> I believe that this message was intended for someone else and was sent to me
in error.
> Regards,
> Dee
> ________________________________
>> To: UK_Selfbuild@...
_________________________________________________________________
Express yourself instantly with MSN Messenger! Download today it's FREE!
http://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/

sounds good ... will take a look when it comes back up !!

(BTW, the MaxBotix would be about half that amount)

Chris


On 2 Jan 2008, at 17:52, David Greaves wrote:

> Chris Hunter wrote:
>> David -
>>
>> have a look at :
>>
>> http://www.maxbotix.com/
>>
>> 'tis what we have in-mind to use for this ...
>>
>> Chris
>
> Try:
> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?
> method=getProduct&R=3395395
> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?
> method=getProduct&R=0218995
>
> Pricey (£42 for the sensor) but mountable under the bath (if it's
> plastic)
>
> (sorry about the delay RS website has been down for a few days)
>
> David
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick.Hughes@...
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

It's there now.

The MaxBotix sounds like it uses direct ultrasonic reflections though.
So you have to mount it above the bath looking down?
I don't see how it works through the bath wall.
(and if you have to drill a hole then a simple resistive sensor would be fine)

Very happy to understand since I can't believe the price of these things!!

David


Chris Hunter wrote:
> sounds good ... will take a look when it comes back up !!
>
> (BTW, the MaxBotix would be about half that amount)
>
> Chris
>
>
> On 2 Jan 2008, at 17:52, David Greaves wrote:
>
>> Chris Hunter wrote:
>>> David -
>>>
>>> have a look at :
>>>
>>> http://www.maxbotix.com/
>>>
>>> 'tis what we have in-mind to use for this ...
>>>
>>> Chris
>> Try:
>> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?
>> method=getProduct&R=3395395
>> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?
>> method=getProduct&R=0218995
>>
>> Pricey (£42 for the sensor) but mountable under the bath (if it's
>> plastic)
>>
>> (sorry about the delay RS website has been down for a few days)
>>
>> David

Wall was the room wall .... in our case the bath will stand away from
all the walls ... so splashing wouldn't be an issue ... the idea was
to detect when a duck (or battleship) floated up above the rim of the
bath ... or rather, when a flag it could carry did that - so could
choose how deep ! !

But, yes, was thinking of ceiling mounting ...

Chris


On 2 Jan 2008, at 20:48, David Greaves wrote:

> It's there now.
>
> The MaxBotix sounds like it uses direct ultrasonic reflections though.
> So you have to mount it above the bath looking down?
> I don't see how it works through the bath wall.
> (and if you have to drill a hole then a simple resistive sensor
> would be fine)
>
> Very happy to understand since I can't believe the price of these
> things!!
>
> David
>
>
> Chris Hunter wrote:
>> sounds good ... will take a look when it comes back up !!
>>
>> (BTW, the MaxBotix would be about half that amount)
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>> On 2 Jan 2008, at 17:52, David Greaves wrote:
>>
>>> Chris Hunter wrote:
>>>> David -
>>>>
>>>> have a look at :
>>>>
>>>> http://www.maxbotix.com/
>>>>
>>>> 'tis what we have in-mind to use for this ...
>>>>
>>>> Chris
>>> Try:
>>> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?
>>> method=getProduct&R=3395395
>>> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?
>>> method=getProduct&R=0218995
>>>
>>> Pricey (£42 for the sensor) but mountable under the bath (if it's
>>> plastic)
>>>
>>> (sorry about the delay RS website has been down for a few days)
>>>
>>> David
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick.Hughes@...
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

There's another way, by relocating the plug on the outlet and having
the level sensor fitted to a hidden standpipe. The sensor then doesn't
need to be pretty and it doesn't depend on having a suitable wall,
ceiling, "transparent" bath etc.

Excuse the ascii art, but something like this?

|                   |  | |
|    bath         |  | |  <-- sensor fitted here (to standpipe)
|                   |  | |
|                   |_| |__
|________________   -->to new drain plug/valve

HTH,

Tim.


On Jan 2, 2008 8:56 PM, Chris Hunter <cjhunter@...> wrote:
> Wall was the room wall .... in our case the bath will stand away from
> all the walls ... so splashing wouldn't be an issue ... the idea was
> to detect when a duck (or battleship) floated up above the rim of the
> bath ... or rather, when a flag it could carry did that - so could
> choose how deep ! !
>
> But, yes, was thinking of ceiling mounting ...
>
> Chris
>
>
>
> On 2 Jan 2008, at 20:48, David Greaves wrote:
>
> > It's there now.
> >
> > The MaxBotix sounds like it uses direct ultrasonic reflections though.
> > So you have to mount it above the bath looking down?
> > I don't see how it works through the bath wall.
> > (and if you have to drill a hole then a simple resistive sensor
> > would be fine)
> >
> > Very happy to understand since I can't believe the price of these
> > things!!
> >
> > David
> >
> >
> > Chris Hunter wrote:
> >> sounds good ... will take a look when it comes back up !!
> >>
> >> (BTW, the MaxBotix would be about half that amount)
> >>
> >> Chris
> >>
> >>
> >> On 2 Jan 2008, at 17:52, David Greaves wrote:
> >>
> >>> Chris Hunter wrote:
> >>>> David -
> >>>>
> >>>> have a look at :
> >>>>
> >>>> http://www.maxbotix.com/
> >>>>
> >>>> 'tis what we have in-mind to use for this ...
> >>>>
> >>>> Chris
> >>> Try:
> >>> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?
> >>> method=getProduct&R=3395395
> >>> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?
> >>> method=getProduct&R=0218995
> >>>
> >>> Pricey (£42 for the sensor) but mountable under the bath (if it's
> >>> plastic)
> >>>
> >>> (sorry about the delay RS website has been down for a few days)
> >>>
> >>> David

I like it - best yet (IMHO).
The standpipe could even be capped, the rise and fall would be different but
would still be there and measurable (this because I have a sneaky feeling
that BCO would not like an open pipe after the u-bend - nor would you!).

Nick

Nick Laurie PC Repairs
01458 250834 and 07941 731056
skype: nicklaurie

-----Original Message-----
From: UK_Selfbuild@... [mailto:UK_Selfbuild@...]
On Behalf Of Tim Hawes
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 9:07 PM
To: UK_Selfbuild@...
Subject: Re: UK_Selfbuild Electric water valve for bath tap

There's another way, by relocating the plug on the outlet and having
the level sensor fitted to a hidden standpipe. The sensor then doesn't
need to be pretty and it doesn't depend on having a suitable wall,
ceiling, "transparent" bath etc.

Excuse the ascii art, but something like this?

|                   |  | |
|    bath         |  | |  <-- sensor fitted here (to standpipe)
|                   |  | |
|                   |_| |__
|________________   -->to new drain plug/valve

HTH,

Tim.


On Jan 2, 2008 8:56 PM, Chris Hunter <cjhunter@...> wrote:
> Wall was the room wall .... in our case the bath will stand away from
> all the walls ... so splashing wouldn't be an issue ... the idea was
> to detect when a duck (or battleship) floated up above the rim of the
> bath ... or rather, when a flag it could carry did that - so could
> choose how deep ! !
>
> But, yes, was thinking of ceiling mounting ...
>
> Chris
>
>
>
> On 2 Jan 2008, at 20:48, David Greaves wrote:
>
> > It's there now.
> >
> > The MaxBotix sounds like it uses direct ultrasonic reflections though.
> > So you have to mount it above the bath looking down?
> > I don't see how it works through the bath wall.
> > (and if you have to drill a hole then a simple resistive sensor
> > would be fine)
> >
> > Very happy to understand since I can't believe the price of these
> > things!!
> >
> > David
> >
> >
> > Chris Hunter wrote:
> >> sounds good ... will take a look when it comes back up !!
> >>
> >> (BTW, the MaxBotix would be about half that amount)
> >>
> >> Chris
> >>
> >>
> >> On 2 Jan 2008, at 17:52, David Greaves wrote:
> >>
> >>> Chris Hunter wrote:
> >>>> David -
> >>>>
> >>>> have a look at :
> >>>>
> >>>> http://www.maxbotix.com/
> >>>>
> >>>> 'tis what we have in-mind to use for this ...
> >>>>
> >>>> Chris
> >>> Try:
> >>> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?
> >>> method=getProduct&R=3395395
> >>> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?
> >>> method=getProduct&R=0218995
> >>>
> >>> Pricey (£42 for the sensor) but mountable under the bath (if it's
> >>> plastic)
> >>>
> >>> (sorry about the delay RS website has been down for a few days)
> >>>
> >>> David


To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
To contact the moderator eMail: Rick.Hughes@...

Yahoo! Groups Links

Yep, good one ... maybe be could be visible, & marked in litres or
even GBPs !

wonder what one would choose for the valve ... great thing about
traditional arrangement is that hairs are trapped & can be removed,
without jamming the works ....

Chris


On 2 Jan 2008, at 21:07, Tim Hawes wrote:

> There's another way, by relocating the plug on the outlet and having
> the level sensor fitted to a hidden standpipe. The sensor then doesn't
> need to be pretty and it doesn't depend on having a suitable wall,
> ceiling, "transparent" bath etc.
>
> Excuse the ascii art, but something like this?
>
> |                   |  | |
> |    bath         |  | |  <-- sensor fitted here (to standpipe)
> |                   |  | |
> |                   |_| |__
> |________________   -->to new drain plug/valve
>
> HTH,
>
> Tim.
>
>
> On Jan 2, 2008 8:56 PM, Chris Hunter <cjhunter@...> wrote:
>> Wall was the room wall .... in our case the bath will stand away from
>> all the walls ... so splashing wouldn't be an issue ... the idea was
>> to detect when a duck (or battleship) floated up above the rim of the
>> bath ... or rather, when a flag it could carry did that - so could
>> choose how deep ! !
>>
>> But, yes, was thinking of ceiling mounting ...
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>>
>> On 2 Jan 2008, at 20:48, David Greaves wrote:
>>
>>> It's there now.
>>>
>>> The MaxBotix sounds like it uses direct ultrasonic reflections
>>> though.
>>> So you have to mount it above the bath looking down?
>>> I don't see how it works through the bath wall.
>>> (and if you have to drill a hole then a simple resistive sensor
>>> would be fine)
>>>
>>> Very happy to understand since I can't believe the price of these
>>> things!!
>>>
>>> David
>>>
>>>
>>> Chris Hunter wrote:
>>>> sounds good ... will take a look when it comes back up !!
>>>>
>>>> (BTW, the MaxBotix would be about half that amount)
>>>>
>>>> Chris
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 2 Jan 2008, at 17:52, David Greaves wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Chris Hunter wrote:
>>>>>> David -
>>>>>>
>>>>>> have a look at :
>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://www.maxbotix.com/
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 'tis what we have in-mind to use for this ...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Chris
>>>>> Try:
>>>>> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?
>>>>> method=getProduct&R=3395395
>>>>> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?
>>>>> method=getProduct&R=0218995
>>>>>
>>>>> Pricey (£42 for the sensor) but mountable under the bath (if it's
>>>>> plastic)
>>>>>
>>>>> (sorry about the delay RS website has been down for a few days)
>>>>>
>>>>> David
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick.Hughes@...
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

if capped, might have to be removable - might need an occasional
brushing-out ! ?

maybe the U-bend could be downstream ... we were thinking of using
Hep2Vo (if that's the right spelling), but ditto ...

quite liked the duck idea, though ....

Chris



On 2 Jan 2008, at 21:12, Nick Laurie wrote:

> I like it - best yet (IMHO).
> The standpipe could even be capped, the rise and fall would be
> different but
> would still be there and measurable (this because I have a sneaky
> feeling
> that BCO would not like an open pipe after the u-bend - nor would
> you!).
>
> Nick
>
> Nick Laurie PC Repairs
> 01458 250834 and 07941 731056
> skype: nicklaurie
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: UK_Selfbuild@...
> [mailto:UK_Selfbuild@...]
> On Behalf Of Tim Hawes
> Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 9:07 PM
> To: UK_Selfbuild@...
> Subject: Re: UK_Selfbuild Electric water valve for bath tap
>
> There's another way, by relocating the plug on the outlet and having
> the level sensor fitted to a hidden standpipe. The sensor then doesn't
> need to be pretty and it doesn't depend on having a suitable wall,
> ceiling, "transparent" bath etc.
>
> Excuse the ascii art, but something like this?
>
> |                   |  | |
> |    bath         |  | |  <-- sensor fitted here (to standpipe)
> |                   |  | |
> |                   |_| |__
> |________________   -->to new drain plug/valve
>
> HTH,
>
> Tim.
>
>
> On Jan 2, 2008 8:56 PM, Chris Hunter <cjhunter@...> wrote:
>> Wall was the room wall .... in our case the bath will stand away from
>> all the walls ... so splashing wouldn't be an issue ... the idea was
>> to detect when a duck (or battleship) floated up above the rim of the
>> bath ... or rather, when a flag it could carry did that - so could
>> choose how deep ! !
>>
>> But, yes, was thinking of ceiling mounting ...
>>
>> Chris
>>
>>
>>
>> On 2 Jan 2008, at 20:48, David Greaves wrote:
>>
>>> It's there now.
>>>
>>> The MaxBotix sounds like it uses direct ultrasonic reflections
>>> though.
>>> So you have to mount it above the bath looking down?
>>> I don't see how it works through the bath wall.
>>> (and if you have to drill a hole then a simple resistive sensor
>>> would be fine)
>>>
>>> Very happy to understand since I can't believe the price of these
>>> things!!
>>>
>>> David
>>>
>>>
>>> Chris Hunter wrote:
>>>> sounds good ... will take a look when it comes back up !!
>>>>
>>>> (BTW, the MaxBotix would be about half that amount)
>>>>
>>>> Chris
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 2 Jan 2008, at 17:52, David Greaves wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Chris Hunter wrote:
>>>>>> David -
>>>>>>
>>>>>> have a look at :
>>>>>>
>>>>>> http://www.maxbotix.com/
>>>>>>
>>>>>> 'tis what we have in-mind to use for this ...
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Chris
>>>>> Try:
>>>>> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?
>>>>> method=getProduct&R=3395395
>>>>> http://uk.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?
>>>>> method=getProduct&R=0218995
>>>>>
>>>>> Pricey (£42 for the sensor) but mountable under the bath (if it's
>>>>> plastic)
>>>>>
>>>>> (sorry about the delay RS website has been down for a few days)
>>>>>
>>>>> David
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick.Hughes@...
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
>
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick.Hughes@...
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Mapei One part flex is fine for this - its available in grey or white and I
think I pay about £7 for 10kg

BAL is overrated.... IMHO

Cheers

Pete


------ Original Message ------
Received: Wed, 02 Jan 2008 01:51:45 PM GMT
From: "mckde2001" <office@...>
To: UK_Selfbuild@...
Subject: UK_Selfbuild Re: Bal flex adhesive

--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "jeremy6844"
<jess.clarke6@...> wrote:
>
> I know nothing about floortiling, over wet underfloor heating in
> screed.What ive gathered so far is I need to use Bal rapidset flex
> adhesive, Its rapidly becoming clear to me this can be truly
> horrendously expensive.Does any one have an idear of what price i
> should be aiming for when i negotiate my tiles from topps, i think
it
> starts around the £47 mark? Cheers,Jess.
>
Hi Jess

I pay £27 inc vat for 20kg - locally arranged price so probably not
helpful unless you are near Edinburgh.

Trades direct http://www.trades-
direct.co.uk/modules/shop/products.asp?rangeid=104 seem to have a
deal at the moment for 2 bags of white at £46.40, not sure about VAT
& carriage. £25.33 each for grey.

You could also try a local Porcelenosa - their stuff seems to be
manufactured by BAL, and can be quite competitive.

Cheers
Colin

They aren't stupidly expensive to start with - try ebay. The shipping cost
will be your biggest cost - at about £100+VAT for about 60 miles.

I've got a contact for newish ones, based just north of Nottingham if you want
to go down that route

Cheers

Peter

------ Original Message ------
Received: Wed, 02 Jan 2008 03:33:28 PM GMT
From: "onionsabroad" <sendaw@...>
To: UK_Selfbuild@...
Subject: UK_Selfbuild Shipping Container

Hello, We are looking to begin a self build and tightly budgeted project mid
summer and are
gathering items that need securing on the property.  Does anyone have a
shipping container
they no longer need.  We will most probably need it for a year and are willing
to pass it on
once finished with our project!  Any leads would be greatly appreciated.   We
are located just
outside Stamford /Grantham in Lincolnshire. Thanks.

Evening

I've got a dilemma, and I'm looking for advice.

I have a single switch for our garage lights which was placed in the middle of
a wall run, which when we planned the garage was the best place...

However, I've now aquired some very nice racking for said wall, and the switch
is obscured by the stuff on the shelves..! I've looked at the remote switch
possibilities but most don't seem suitable for fluorescent loads.

Does anyone have any suggestions that don't require a rewire, and could be
used to simply replace the current switchplate, and provide an alternative
wireless location..?

Cheers

Peter

Hardly a rewire, surely. Even if you chase the wire into the wall (or run it
up and over, or whatever) it can't be more than a few hours work to Keep It
Simple. Remotes, batteries, etc - in a garage (clutter?) ... not for me!

Nick
To Keep It Simmple
Nick Laurie PC Repairs
01458 250834 and 07941 731056
skype: nicklaurie

-----Original Message-----
From: UK_Selfbuild@... [mailto:UK_Selfbuild@...]
On Behalf Of Peter Whitlam
Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 11:28 PM
To: UK_Selfbuild@...
Subject: UK_Selfbuild Remote Switching of Fluorescent Loads

Evening

I've got a dilemma, and I'm looking for advice.

I have a single switch for our garage lights which was placed in the middle
of
a wall run, which when we planned the garage was the best place...

However, I've now aquired some very nice racking for said wall, and the
switch
is obscured by the stuff on the shelves..! I've looked at the remote switch
possibilities but most don't seem suitable for fluorescent loads.

Does anyone have any suggestions that don't require a rewire, and could be
used to simply replace the current switchplate, and provide an alternative
wireless location..?

Cheers

Peter




To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
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The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
To contact the moderator eMail: Rick.Hughes@...

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