Thanks
Never use the stuff myself hence the ignorance!

What happens if one uses parquet or wood block then?
Perhaps because no one dimension is that long and it is all staggered
the expansion ceases to be a problem

Chris

Lee wrote:

> Hi Chris
>
> I think it's supposed to be laid as a floating floor, in fact they say
> the warranty will not be honoured if anything over a certain weight is
> placed on top of the flooring that could limit it's ability to move
> due to expansion/contraction.
> So I guess glue isn't an option.
>
> I did wonder about laying on a very fine layer of dry pavior sand to
> accommodate any tiny variations in floor level and eliminate air
> pockets, but think that might just get a bit too messy....
>
> Lee
>
> --- In UK_Selfbuild@...
> <mailto:UK_Selfbuild%40yahoogroups.co.uk>, Dr CJD George ATICS Ltd
> <mail@...> wrote:
> >
> > Agreed
> > You could even consider researching a heat conducting glue
> > Chris
> >
> > Lee wrote:
> >
> > > Evening all
> > >
> > > With the budget all but run out, we have bought some cheapish laminate
> > > flooring to do out our living room and study with.
> > >
> > > The instructions suggest that with UFH, one shouldn't use the thin
> > > foam underlay that would normally be used, but a damp proof membrane
> > > should be laid to prevent any damp coming up from the screed.
> > >
> > > However, our screed (flowing stuff) has been down for best part of a
> > > year and has had the UFH running for about 4 months now, so it should
> > > be perfectly dried out. There is a DPM below the screed.
> > >
> > > The screed is also perfectly flat.
> > >
> > > So I'm wondering whether I need to bother with a DPM at all, or just
> > > lay it straight onto the screed ?
> > > I like the idea of having as little as possible between the flooring
> > > and screed that could reduce heat transmission - including a DPM that
> > > could wrinkle up and create the odd airgap (albeit very small).
> > >
> > > Thoughts ?
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I need to put a 'pipe' hole that I missed through my vertical hanging clay
tiles. I can't exert too high a pressure so want to use my dremel using an
appropriate tip.
In B&Q I see they do a tungsten carbide drill bit @ £25.  Seems a bit steep
to drill a smal hole but if I knew it would do the job I'd get it.
Anyone have any experience of drilling through these hard materials, and any
other way
Cheers


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have seen a glass cutting drill for mirrors and the like at about
under a tenner but do not know how hard glass is relative to clay
It needs to be kept wet all the time
Chris

Raymond Kelly wrote:

> I need to put a 'pipe' hole that I missed through my vertical hanging clay
> tiles. I can't exert too high a pressure so want to use my dremel using an
> appropriate tip.
> In B&Q I see they do a tungsten carbide drill bit @ £25. Seems a bit steep
> to drill a smal hole but if I knew it would do the job I'd get it.
> Anyone have any experience of drilling through these hard materials,
> and any
> other way
> Cheers
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>



[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Had to do a few screwholes for doorstops through very hard ceramic
tiles. Used a tile bit (1/4" or thereabouts, cost about a fiver. It
had a 'spade' bit but I don't know what it was made of). Went through
the tile with some difficulty, plenty of water for lubrication.
Maybe you could get the shop to recommend it on the basis of you
returning it if it doesn't do the job?
Nick

Nick Laurie PC Repairs
nwlaurie@...
Skype: nicklaurie
01458 250834 and 07941 731056





On 2 Jan 2009, at 18:36, Raymond Kelly wrote:

> I need to put a 'pipe' hole that I missed through my vertical
> hanging clay
> tiles. I can't exert too high a pressure so want to use my dremel
> using an
> appropriate tip.
> In B&Q I see they do a tungsten carbide drill bit @ £25.  Seems a
> bit steep
> to drill a smal hole but if I knew it would do the job I'd get it.
> Anyone have any experience of drilling through these hard materials,
> and any
> other way
> Cheers
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick_Hughes@...
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Raymond
I have had a lot of success going through concrete, ceramic tiles, slates etc
using diamond coated or tungsten carbide grit coated hole saws.
Various available. Not expensive.
An example is
  http://tinyurl.com/9bnagb
but also look on Axminster tools website.
I have various diamond tools for a Dremel (some from Axminster I think) but
wouldnt use them for what you need. Too laborious and risky (breakage) IMHO.
Diamond hole drill, cordless drill on low torque screwdriver setting (so it
doesn't jam and break the tile. Slow speed. Should be ok. Good luck.
Rgds
Peter



   ----- Original Message -----
   From: Raymond Kelly
   To: UK_Selfbuild@...
   Sent: Friday, January 02, 2009 6:36 PM
   Subject: UK_Selfbuild Drilling through hard clay tiles


   I need to put a 'pipe' hole that I missed through my vertical hanging clay
   tiles. I can't exert too high a pressure so want to use my dremel using an
   appropriate tip.
   In B&Q I see they do a tungsten carbide drill bit @ £25. Seems a bit steep
   to drill a smal hole but if I knew it would do the job I'd get it.
   Anyone have any experience of drilling through these hard materials, and any
   other way
   Cheers

   [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Hi there,

Happy New Year and I hope that Santa brought all your worldly desires!

The timber framers will be back on site tomorrow, starting on the first floor. 
Of course,
I have been wandering around, looking closely at the work and finding areas that
will need
looking at.

There are some minor 'cracks' between the OSM panels.  Will not affect
the insulation at all, but can allow air leakage.  May be the Fermacell will
cover these
'cracks' but I would like to do something.  Is silicone the answer? Or a  high
bond
construction tape?

If so, which one is recommended?  ScrewFix have so many, I really don't know
which to
choose.  My feeling is the cheapest
for this particular task.

Rex

PS:  I posted this just before Christmas but any replies got lost in the Festive
Season.

Hi there,

Kind of a follow on from the last question.

Our studs are at 600 centres with one noggin.  The internal OSB panels are
nailed onto the
studs but not to the single noggin, so there is some flex in the panel if one
leans
against it.

I know that wall fixtures can be screwed directly onto Fermacell, but presumably
that
implies the Fermacell is well fixed to the studs / noggins.  Is it advisable to
glue and /
or nail both the internal OSB and Fermacell  panels to the noggins?

I am thinking of adding more noggins as I do want the inner panels and Fermacell
to be
well fixed and feel as solid as possible.

Many thanks,

Rex

In a message dated 04/01/2009 08:52:16 GMT Standard Time,
rex-butcher@... writes:

The  timber framers will be back on site tomorrow, starting on the first
floor.


Hi Rex,

Many years ago thetr was a proposal to build the top floor first. Once the
walls were up, and the roof on, they would jack it up, and build the next
storey  underneath.....while the plasterers etc got on with finishing the floor
above.  Then jack up the two storeys to get on with the next, ad infinitum. Sort
of  makes sense.

I wonder if it was the H&S bullies that stopped this.......or maybe it  was
reported in the April edition of the magazine.......

602


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

602,

Thanks for your reply.

In Japan, there is no (as far as i know)OSM panel manufacturing
although most houses are timber frame.  The timbers are all prepared
in the workshop and fit together beautifully with real mortise and
tenon joints.  The whole lot is bolted together and bolted to the
oversite.  They build the basic timber framework very quickly, put the
roof on and then on go the panels.

I have to admit to beign disappointed that the only bolts on our house
are those for the steel work.  Any two panels forming a corner, should
in my opinion, be bolted. However, I know the house will not fall down!

Rex

--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., W3526602@... wrote:
>
>
> In a message dated 04/01/2009 08:52:16 GMT Standard Time,
> rex-butcher@... writes:
>
> The  timber framers will be back on site tomorrow, starting on the
first
> floor.
>
>
> Hi Rex,
>
> Many years ago thetr was a proposal to build the top floor first.
Once the
> walls were up, and the roof on, they would jack it up, and build the
next
> storey  underneath.....while the plasterers etc got on with
finishing the floor
> above.  Then jack up the two storeys to get on with the next, ad
infinitum. Sort
> of  makes sense.
>
> I wonder if it was the H&S bullies that stopped this.......or maybe
it  was
> reported in the April edition of the magazine.......
>
> 602
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Ben,



Do you have a kitchen plan yet? As I base all my lighting designs around the
room layout and not just to give the same lights across the whole room.



Thanks



Ben Addison

  <http://www.clipsalcbus.co.uk/> www.clipsalcbus.co.uk

07889845712



   _____

From: UK_Selfbuild@... [mailto:UK_Selfbuild@...]
On Behalf Of Ben McCormack
Sent: 29 December 2008 10:05
To: UKHA Mailinglist; UK Selfbuild
Subject: UK_Selfbuild Lighting Design for Kitchen



All

I have started looking into the lighting design for the kitchen. The
space is quite large 4.5 * 5.5m and all of the lighting will be
controlled by cbus dimmers.

I have considered using a lighting designer but thought I would have a
go myself last night.

The plan is to have low voltage halogens in the ceiling and then task
lights under the cabinets.

So I started by finding that Aurora seem to produce nice fittings and
transformers at a reasonable price. (http://www.aurora-
<http://www.aurora-lighting.com/> lighting.com/)

I then found Relux which is a lighting design program. Aurora produce
the specifications for each and every one of their fittings that feeds
into Relux. (http://www.relux. <http://www.relux.biz/> biz/) The software is
free to download
and not too difficult to get your head around.

So I chose a standard Aurora fitting and put all of the room details
into Relux.

You can also add things like windows and different finished on the
floor and walls.

Fitting - http://www.aurora-
<http://www.aurora-lighting.com/ProductPages/LampProductDetails.aspx?g=2951&
c=6&b=71&oc=81>
lighting.com/ProductPages/LampProductDetails.aspx?g=2951&c=6&b=71&oc=81

There are a couple of factors that affect the calculation

Maintenance Factor - I assume this is used for commercial
installations where Maintenance and blown bulbs can be a major issue.
I set this to 1.

Illuminance Required - After digging around I left this set at 500 lx.
This seems to be a reasonable figure to use.

The end result of this is 25 Light fittings in this space. Spaced on a
1m grid.

So how does this compare with other people who have fitted low voltage
in the kitchen. It seems rather a lot of light fittings to me?

Regards
Ben



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.176 / Virus Database: 270.10.0/1863 - Release Date: 1/3/2009
2:14 PM




[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Fermacell is much tougher stuff than you might believe. Screwing (or
stapling) to  uprights and noggins is all that is needed. FC edges
should be glued together (but no need for the join to be backed by
studs) with the incredibly sticky (and strong) Jointstick.
I have a cupboard hanging off 4 screws (actually proper plasterboard
fixings with the droppy-flap behind) and i (18 stone) have stood on it
with no signs of creaking. Officially 25kg off an ordinary screw, but
tested to 50kg (IIRC). I put shelves straight into it as though I was
fixing to timbwer.
Yup, tough stuff - that's why we use it.
Nick

Nick Laurie PC Repairs
nwlaurie@...
Skype: nicklaurie
01458 250834 and 07941 731056





On 4 Jan 2009, at 08:41, Rex wrote:

> Hi there,
>
> Kind of a follow on from the last question.
>
> Our studs are at 600 centres with one noggin.  The internal OSB
> panels are nailed onto the
> studs but not to the single noggin, so there is some flex in the
> panel if one leans
> against it.
>
> I know that wall fixtures can be screwed directly onto Fermacell,
> but presumably that
> implies the Fermacell is well fixed to the studs / noggins.  Is it
> advisable to glue and /
> or nail both the internal OSB and Fermacell  panels to the noggins?
>
> I am thinking of adding more noggins as I do want the inner panels
> and Fermacell to be
> well fixed and feel as solid as possible.
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Rex
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick_Hughes@...
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

I guess the issue is that whatever you use needs to remain in place for many
years. If it hardens and becomes brittle, or and becomes less sticky and
fails to adhere (e.g. with oxidisation) it will cease to be airtight.

On Sun, Jan 4, 2009 at 8:51 AM, Rex <rex-butcher@...> wrote:

>   Hi there,
>
> Happy New Year and I hope that Santa brought all your worldly desires!
>
> The timber framers will be back on site tomorrow, starting on the first
> floor. Of course,
> I have been wandering around, looking closely at the work and finding areas
> that will need
> looking at.
>
> There are some minor 'cracks' between the OSM panels. Will not affect
> the insulation at all, but can allow air leakage. May be the Fermacell will
> cover these
> 'cracks' but I would like to do something. Is silicone the answer? Or a
> high bond
> construction tape?
>
> If so, which one is recommended? ScrewFix have so many, I really don't know
> which to
> choose. My feeling is the cheapest
> for this particular task.
>
> Rex
>
> PS: I posted this just before Christmas but any replies got lost in the
> Festive Season.
>
>
>



--
Peter English
Surrey, UK


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Peter,

Thanks for you reply.

Yes , of course it would be good if it remained sound for X years; I
was just wondering what others have done, or am I being paranoid about
minor potential leakage points.  I appreciate that the Fermacell will
cover most joints, so guess there is not really a problem.

Rex

--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "Peter English"
<petermbenglish@...> wrote:
>
> I guess the issue is that whatever you use needs to remain in place
for many
> years. If it hardens and becomes brittle, or and becomes less sticky and
> fails to adhere (e.g. with oxidisation) it will cease to be airtight.
>
> On Sun, Jan 4, 2009 at 8:51 AM, Rex <rex-butcher@...> wrote:
>
> >   Hi there,
> >
> > Happy New Year and I hope that Santa brought all your worldly desires!
> >
> > The timber framers will be back on site tomorrow, starting on the
first
> > floor. Of course,
> > I have been wandering around, looking closely at the work and
finding areas
> > that will need
> > looking at.
> >
> > There are some minor 'cracks' between the OSM panels. Will not affect
> > the insulation at all, but can allow air leakage. May be the
Fermacell will
> > cover these
> > 'cracks' but I would like to do something. Is silicone the answer?
Or a
> > high bond
> > construction tape?
> >
> > If so, which one is recommended? ScrewFix have so many, I really
don't know
> > which to
> > choose. My feeling is the cheapest
> > for this particular task.
> >
> > Rex
> >
> > PS: I posted this just before Christmas but any replies got lost
in the
> > Festive Season.
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Peter English
> Surrey, UK
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

Nick,

Thanks for you reply.

I know it is tough stuff, but if a cupboard or shelf is screwed
directly into Fermacell, but the Fermacell  is unsupported behind
(studs at 600 centres but only one noggin between ceiling and floor)
surely the Fermacell will bow outward under the weight?

And with only one noggin, will the wall sound more 'hollow' than if
there were additional noggins?

Rex

--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., Nick Laurie <nwlaurie@...> wrote:
>
> Fermacell is much tougher stuff than you might believe. Screwing (or
> stapling) to  uprights and noggins is all that is needed. FC edges
> should be glued together (but no need for the join to be backed by
> studs) with the incredibly sticky (and strong) Jointstick.
> I have a cupboard hanging off 4 screws (actually proper plasterboard
> fixings with the droppy-flap behind) and i (18 stone) have stood on it
> with no signs of creaking. Officially 25kg off an ordinary screw, but
> tested to 50kg (IIRC). I put shelves straight into it as though I was
> fixing to timbwer.
> Yup, tough stuff - that's why we use it.
> Nick
>
> Nick Laurie PC Repairs
> nwlaurie@...
> Skype: nicklaurie
> 01458 250834 and 07941 731056
>
>
>
>
>
> On 4 Jan 2009, at 08:41, Rex wrote:
>
> > Hi there,
> >
> > Kind of a follow on from the last question.
> >
> > Our studs are at 600 centres with one noggin.  The internal OSB
> > panels are nailed onto the
> > studs but not to the single noggin, so there is some flex in the
> > panel if one leans
> > against it.
> >
> > I know that wall fixtures can be screwed directly onto Fermacell,
> > but presumably that
> > implies the Fermacell is well fixed to the studs / noggins.  Is it
> > advisable to glue and /
> > or nail both the internal OSB and Fermacell  panels to the noggins?
> >
> > I am thinking of adding more noggins as I do want the inner panels
> > and Fermacell to be
> > well fixed and feel as solid as possible.
> >
> > Many thanks,
> >
> > Rex
> >
> >
> >
> > ------------------------------------
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> > The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> > To contact the moderator eMail: Rick_Hughes@...
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
>

IIRC the studs are the only thing actually specified in the
literature, in which case it would carry the loads described. You'd
need to look at the FC literature to check this. We only used two
noggins from floor to ceiling in most places.
As to the 'hollow' sound, yes, I'd expect it to be more pronounced the
greater the unsupported (noggin damping) area.
Nick

Nick Laurie PC Repairs
nwlaurie@...
Skype: nicklaurie
01458 250834 and 07941 731056





On 5 Jan 2009, at 19:29, Rex wrote:

> Nick,
>
> Thanks for you reply.
>
> I know it is tough stuff, but if a cupboard or shelf is screwed
> directly into Fermacell, but the Fermacell  is unsupported behind
> (studs at 600 centres but only one noggin between ceiling and floor)
> surely the Fermacell will bow outward under the weight?
>
> And with only one noggin, will the wall sound more 'hollow' than if
> there were additional noggins?
>
> Rex
>
> --- In UK_Selfbuild@..., Nick Laurie <nwlaurie@...>
> wrote:
>>
>> Fermacell is much tougher stuff than you might believe. Screwing (or
>> stapling) to  uprights and noggins is all that is needed. FC edges
>> should be glued together (but no need for the join to be backed by
>> studs) with the incredibly sticky (and strong) Jointstick.
>> I have a cupboard hanging off 4 screws (actually proper plasterboard
>> fixings with the droppy-flap behind) and i (18 stone) have stood on
>> it
>> with no signs of creaking. Officially 25kg off an ordinary screw, but
>> tested to 50kg (IIRC). I put shelves straight into it as though I was
>> fixing to timbwer.
>> Yup, tough stuff - that's why we use it.
>> Nick
>>
>> Nick Laurie PC Repairs
>> nwlaurie@...
>> Skype: nicklaurie
>> 01458 250834 and 07941 731056
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> On 4 Jan 2009, at 08:41, Rex wrote:
>>
>>> Hi there,
>>>
>>> Kind of a follow on from the last question.
>>>
>>> Our studs are at 600 centres with one noggin.  The internal OSB
>>> panels are nailed onto the
>>> studs but not to the single noggin, so there is some flex in the
>>> panel if one leans
>>> against it.
>>>
>>> I know that wall fixtures can be screwed directly onto Fermacell,
>>> but presumably that
>>> implies the Fermacell is well fixed to the studs / noggins.  Is it
>>> advisable to glue and /
>>> or nail both the internal OSB and Fermacell  panels to the noggins?
>>>
>>> I am thinking of adding more noggins as I do want the inner panels
>>> and Fermacell to be
>>> well fixed and feel as solid as possible.
>>>
>>> Many thanks,
>>>
>>> Rex
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ------------------------------------
>>>
>>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>>> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
>>> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
>>> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick_Hughes@...
>>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick_Hughes@...
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

|
|I know it is tough stuff, but if a cupboard or shelf is screwed
|directly into Fermacell, but the Fermacell  is unsupported behind
|(studs at 600 centres but only one noggin between ceiling and floor)
|surely the Fermacell will bow outward under the weight?
|
|And with only one noggin, will the wall sound more 'hollow' than if
|there were additional noggins?
|
|Rex

Hi Rex,

Our extension is a timber frame, built on 600mm centres. I created a service
void between the wall and the Fermacell by nailing 25mmx50mm battens
horizontally along the wall. I did this at 500mm centres to lower the number
of off battens joints (I use the one man, 1000mmx1500mm boards.)

Hung various things off the boards such as the kitchen cabinets. No signs on
bowing.

Don't know about relative hollowness of sound with and without noggins
because I haven't used any. I do know it sounds less hollow that the
plasterboard walls.

Hth,
    Richard

HNY all

It's been a while since I posted here; good to see things are going well :)

I have a dual-fuel cooker with 4 rings and a wok-ring.
I bought 2 big red propane tanks (about £70 IIRC) 3 years ago.
Still waiting to switch to the second tank - it's getting silly now!

Anyhow, one thing that came up during the pipe route question was that it was a
bad idea to route it under the suspended floor. If it did leak and 'pooled'
(propane being heavier than air) then that would potentially be "a bad thing".

ISTR testing for leaks with bubble solution (I only had 1 90 deg bend to solder
and that was outside).

When it is setup you should be able to turn the tank off and, after a while,
open the hob and not have lost pressure; something to try every year or so.

David

Rick wrote:
> Many Ovens will work on a 13A socket, mine certainly will. Electric hobs
> on the other hand use lots of leccie, so this is probably why we all run
> in huge great cables.
>
> When I do gas pipes, I always have a corgi guy come and do the final
> connection, primarily because his test kit is more expensive to buy,
> than hiring him for 1/2 a day. However is some years since I have done a
> gas pipe. If water leeks I get wet, if gas leeks I get blown up,
> somewhat different consequence of a minor soldering error.
>
> Rick
>
> On Sun, 2008-12-21 at 08:41 +0000, Peter and Jane wrote:
>> Hello
>> I am about to connect up a dual fuel range cooker (gas hob, electric
>> ovens).
>> I went into City Electrical to get a suitable flexible cable
>> (expecting butyl rubber, heat resistant or whatever like an uprated
>> version of an immersion heater cable) and was told that 6mm or 10mm
>> PVC t+e is fine and there is no special cable. What have others done?
>>
>> On the bottled propane side I intend to use 22mm copper (overkill)
>> through the outside garage wall, up and across the garage ceiling down
>> the wall on the house side and through the wall to the back of the
>> cooker. Total run 10 metres. Although all joints will be exposed so I
>> could use compression, I plan to use solder ring, and to sleeve with
>> 28mm through each of the walls, sealing with silicone to the pipe on
>> the inside and to the wall on the outside. As I understand it the
>> installer needs to be competent (which I believe I am) and aware of
>> the regulations (have I missed anything above?) but not Corgi (as it
>> is Calor gas). Comments appreciated!
>>
>> Rgds
>> Peter
>>
>> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick_Hughes@...
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

--
"Don't worry, you'll be fine; I saw it work in a cartoon once..."

What thickness of Fermacell are people using - 12.5mm?
 
Stuart

--- On Tue, 6/1/09, Richard Owen <richard_owen_mba@...> wrote:

From: Richard Owen <richard_owen_mba@...>
Subject: RE: UK_Selfbuild Fixing Fermacell
To: UK_Selfbuild@...
Date: Tuesday, 6 January, 2009, 9:44 AM







|
|I know it is tough stuff, but if a cupboard or shelf is screwed
|directly into Fermacell, but the Fermacell is unsupported behind
|(studs at 600 centres but only one noggin between ceiling and floor)
|surely the Fermacell will bow outward under the weight?
|
|And with only one noggin, will the wall sound more 'hollow' than if
|there were additional noggins?
|
|Rex

Hi Rex,

Our extension is a timber frame, built on 600mm centres. I created a service
void between the wall and the Fermacell by nailing 25mmx50mm battens
horizontally along the wall. I did this at 500mm centres to lower the number
of off battens joints (I use the one man, 1000mmx1500mm boards.)

Hung various things off the boards such as the kitchen cabinets. No signs on
bowing.

Don't know about relative hollowness of sound with and without noggins
because I haven't used any. I do know it sounds less hollow that the
plasterboard walls.

Hth,
Richard


















[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

I have been fitting some 110 solvent weld pipe and have obviously not
dome a good job.  One particular joint, for various reasons, the pipe
had to be slightly out of allignment to the socket and although it
looked OK, there is a very small seapage out of the joint.  I don't
want to dismantle what I have done, but I do need to ensure it is
properly sealed.

  Any suggestions on how to repair it?  Will running a load of solvent
around the join do the trick?

Simon

Silicone!!!
Then a bit more silicone to finish it off.
Nick

Nick Laurie PC Repairs
nwlaurie@...
Skype: nicklaurie
01458 250834 and 07941 731056





On 6 Jan 2009, at 23:19, sj_purser wrote:

> I have been fitting some 110 solvent weld pipe and have obviously not
> dome a good job.  One particular joint, for various reasons, the pipe
> had to be slightly out of allignment to the socket and although it
> looked OK, there is a very small seapage out of the joint.  I don't
> want to dismantle what I have done, but I do need to ensure it is
> properly sealed.
>
> Any suggestions on how to repair it?  Will running a load of solvent
> around the join do the trick?
>
> Simon
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick_Hughes@...
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

Did the whole house in 10mm. No problems.
Nick

Nick Laurie PC Repairs
nwlaurie@...
Skype: nicklaurie
01458 250834 and 07941 731056





On 6 Jan 2009, at 13:01, Stuart Frazer wrote:

> What thickness of Fermacell are people using - 12.5mm?
>
> Stuart
>
> --- On Tue, 6/1/09, Richard Owen <richard_owen_mba@...> wrote:
>
> From: Richard Owen <richard_owen_mba@...>
> Subject: RE: UK_Selfbuild Fixing Fermacell
> To: UK_Selfbuild@...
> Date: Tuesday, 6 January, 2009, 9:44 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> |
> |I know it is tough stuff, but if a cupboard or shelf is screwed
> |directly into Fermacell, but the Fermacell is unsupported behind
> |(studs at 600 centres but only one noggin between ceiling and floor)
> |surely the Fermacell will bow outward under the weight?
> |
> |And with only one noggin, will the wall sound more 'hollow' than if
> |there were additional noggins?
> |
> |Rex
>
> Hi Rex,
>
> Our extension is a timber frame, built on 600mm centres. I created a
> service
> void between the wall and the Fermacell by nailing 25mmx50mm battens
> horizontally along the wall. I did this at 500mm centres to lower
> the number
> of off battens joints (I use the one man, 1000mmx1500mm boards.)
>
> Hung various things off the boards such as the kitchen cabinets. No
> signs on
> bowing.
>
> Don't know about relative hollowness of sound with and without noggins
> because I haven't used any. I do know it sounds less hollow that the
> plasterboard walls.
>
> Hth,
> Richard
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick_Hughes@...
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>

I think I have managed to fix them up by carefully poking more solvent (I
use the type with a little brush inside the can) down into the joint gap.

Graham

-----Original Message-----
From: UK_Selfbuild@... [mailto:UK_Selfbuild@...]
On Behalf Of sj_purser

I have been fitting some 110 solvent weld pipe and have obviously not dome a
good job.  One particular joint, for various reasons, the pipe had to be
slightly out of allignment to the socket and although it looked OK, there is
a very small seapage out of the joint.  I don't want to dismantle what I
have done, but I do need to ensure it is properly sealed.

  Any suggestions on how to repair it?  Will running a load of solvent around
the join do the trick?

Hello all,
and a happy new year to you all.

I am back in a position whereby I can receive group emails again, so I
have my ears on once more :-)


So, quick update:
Bungalow is still not finished, but is a lot closer than it was last
time I posted (whenever that was).
Most of upstairs completed, needs the two loft hatches doing, some fresh
paint in the hall, and the bath connecting (we use the shower).
Downstairs, tackling the kitchen, and a bit of finishing off to do in
the annexe, which is to be the games room.

Anyway, looking forward to catching up with you all.
No I'm not going to read all the messages since I last looked in (6937
of them !)

All the best,
     John W (aka Webbo)

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You should be able to seal with more solvent glue at the join.

Incidentally, both male & female surfaces should have glue applied -
that way you have slightly longer to align, and less chance of a leak.

Regards
Colin

--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "sj_purser" <builder@...> wrote:
>
> I have been fitting some 110 solvent weld pipe and have obviously
not
> dome a good job.  One particular joint, for various reasons, the
pipe
> had to be slightly out of allignment to the socket and although it
> looked OK, there is a very small seapage out of the joint.  I don't
> want to dismantle what I have done, but I do need to ensure it is
> properly sealed.
>
>  Any suggestions on how to repair it?  Will running a load of
solvent
> around the join do the trick?
>
> Simon
>

Yes that's what I used.

Andrew

----- Original Message -----
From: "Stuart Frazer" <stuartfrazer@...>
To: <UK_Selfbuild@...>
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 1:01 PM
Subject: RE: UK_Selfbuild Fixing Fermacell



What thickness of Fermacell are people using - 12.5mm?

Stuart

Webbo -

Welcome back ... and ...  it's really quite refreshing to hear how far
you haven't got !   Of course, that also goes for rather a lot of us
!!

Chris

Thanks Chris.

I suspected a number of you might be finished, but also thought a fair
percentage
wouldn't. After all, its the fiddling about with things we enjoy the
most, right ?
Has Rick finished his house yet ? ;-)

We were making a push to complete upstairs, which is now pretty close,
Trouble is
some rooms downstairs haven't even been touched. Believe it or not we
still have
unplastered lintels 4 years after the roof was done in a couple of
rooms...

I've now resorted to paying a retired relative to come 1 day a week to
get some
of the odd jobs completed, so these will get sorted soon which means we
can paint
the rooms - yay !
Its made a difference getting him in as I have a revitalised enthusiasm
to get on
with some of the things again.

I was going to write a list of outstanding jobs, but gave up before I
started when
I realised just how much we still have to do :-|



|-> -----Original Message-----
|-> From: UK_Selfbuild@...
|-> [mailto:UK_Selfbuild@...] On Behalf Of Chris
|-> Hunter (home)
|-> Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 5:23 PM
|-> To: UK_Selfbuild@...
|-> Subject: Re: UK_Selfbuild I'm back !!!!
|->
|-> Webbo -
|->
|-> Welcome back ... and ...  it's really quite refreshing to
|-> hear how far
|-> you haven't got !   Of course, that also goes for rather a lot of us
|-> !!
|->
|-> Chris
|->
|-> ------------------------------------

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---------------------------------------------------------------------
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right then, techie question.

We have an 8 way loftbox for TV coax distribution.
The picture quality from our terestrial aerial is pants due to where we
are,
and the digital reception is fairly poor too, so we watch sky most of
the time.

Having just slapped a new flat screen tv in one of the rooms, I can now
see
clearly a great deal of interference on any of the analog channels,
including
the distributed sky output. It is visible on the other TVs too, just
they are
much smaller screens so much less noticable.

Everything is wired using twin screened coax. I've checked the F
connector
termination is okay, and am using non-isolated wall plates so the remote
magic
eye things work.

Anyone else experienced this sort of thing and have any ideas what I
might have
wrong or could try changing ?

Cheers,
     John.

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Plasma or LCD?

Tracey

> Having just slapped a new flat screen tv in one of the rooms, I can now
> see
> clearly a great deal of interference on any of the analog channels,
> including
> the distributed sky output. It is visible on the other TVs too, just
> they are
> much smaller screens so much less noticable.
>
>

>list of outstanding jobs ...

ditto ... too much !

>made a difference ...

good idea, have been thinking of doing something similar, to provide
the impetus, 'though maybe one of the guys we had on the job when we
started, or a relative ... with the current crisis, maybe other
options could be affordable ? !

Chris