Tracey Gardner wrote:
> What have people done when they have had carpets fitted over an anhydrite
> screed?
> Normally a carpet fitter would just nail gripper rod into wooden floors but
> I can't see them doing that around the edge of a screed?
> Do they glue it down?
> If they do, presumably that means a visit to glue the gripper rod down and
> then a second visit to fit the carpet?
>
In every place that I've lived, they've hammered nails through the
gripper into the floor - wooden floor or not.

Paul
> Thanks
>
> Tracey
>

Chris,

You'll find that most central vacs are very similar - the attachments
provided by CVC are exactly the same as Beam - and it does not solve the
VacPan issue as CVC sell it as well.

I can't remember exactly what the conclusions of my research were (my first
Central Vac was bought 5 years ago - and only turned on last week for the
first time!) but we opted for Beam for the build as well as retrofitting one
to the current house as they are backed by Electrolux (as are some of the
other "brands").  I think the CVC Millennium one wasn't around when we did
our research, so can't comment on that.

One thing for anyone buying a central vac - go to the homebuild show, get
the show offer price from a couple of competitors then start haggling and
play one off against the other.  Will pay for the trip to NEC or wherever
and a hotel for the night !

Cheers

Pete


-----Original Message-----
From: UK_Selfbuild@... [mailto:UK_Selfbuild@...]
On Behalf Of Chris Hunter (home)
Sent: 09 November 2009 19:52
To: UK_Selfbuild@...
Subject: Re: UK_Selfbuild Central Vac

if it's not to late to change, these guys seem to have set about addressing
the problems with built-in vacuums -  at any rate, their Millennium models
look to be the ones we'll go-for :

http://www.cvcdirect.co.uk/cvcdirect-millea.html

worth a look, maybe ?

Chris



On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 7:04 PM, rex-butcher@... <
rex-butcher@...> wrote:

>
>
> Pete,
>
> Thanks for your reply. Have to admit that you have probably hit the nail
on
> the head; the spring contact breaking was with the supplier said, but
> frankly, the VacSweep spring switch is the same.
>
> FYI, this is a link to the VacSweep (
>
http://www.thefind.com/appliances/browse-nutone-vacusweep-automatic-dust-pan
).
> I just don't like the way it looks; the Pan looks better.
>
> Probably not having tiles in the kitchen, lino or something similar.
>
> Rex
>
> --- In UK_Selfbuild@... <UK_Selfbuild%40yahoogroups.co.uk>,
> "Pete Church" <yahoo@...> wrote:
> >
> > Rex,
> >
> >
> >
> > I've put VacPans in two houses now and not had a problem with them
> breaking.
> > Have never come across a Vac Sweep.
> >
> >
> >
> > The Vac Pans are quite flimsy, and the mechanical "switch" is the sort
of
> > thing you would have created in a physics lesson out of a paperclip and
a
> > couple of nails - I'd see that as a weakness but would presume that the
> Vac
> > Sweep may be no better.
> >
> >
> >
> > Only thing I would say is that if you're installing in a tiled floor
make
> > sure it is not on a tile join as it leaves a little gap underneath that
> an
> > amazing amount of dirt disappears under.
> >
> >
> >
> > Pete
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: UK_Selfbuild@...
<UK_Selfbuild%40yahoogroups.co.uk>[mailto:
> UK_Selfbuild@... <UK_Selfbuild%40yahoogroups.co.uk>]
> > On Behalf Of Rex
> > Sent: 07 November 2009 20:07
> > To: SelfBuildHouse
> > Subject: UK_Selfbuild Central Vac
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi there,
> >
> > I have had all the bits and pieces for the central vac delivered and
most
> of
> > the first fix
> > is installed.
> >
> > One item that I expected was a kitchen VacPan but what I got is a
> VacSweep.
> > The
> > difference is that the Pan has a foot operated rocker switch while the
> Pan
> > has a toe flap
> > to raise and lower.
> >
> > I was told that the VacPan breaks quickly and the Sweep is better, but
> > frankly I think I
> > am being told what they are trying to sell.
> >
> > Anyone got experience of the Pan/Sweep issue, if it's an issue?
> >
> > Many thanks,
> >
> > Rex
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]



------------------------------------

To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
To contact the moderator eMail: Rick_Hughes@...
Yahoo! Groups Links

Don't gripper rods have masonry-strength nails in ?
They may just hammer it straight into the screed.

Although we have the same type of screed on our ground floor, we have got tiles
and laminate downstairs, so haven't seen it done.
Our last house (developer-built house in 2001) had a concrete/screed ground
floor and that was carpeted, I can't be 100% sure as it was a while ago - but I
don't remember them glueing anything.

Lee

--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "Tracey Gardner" <tracey.gardner@...>
wrote:
>
> What have people done when they have had carpets fitted over an anhydrite
> screed?
> Normally a carpet fitter would just nail gripper rod into wooden floors but
> I can't see them doing that around the edge of a screed?
> Do they glue it down?
> If they do, presumably that means a visit to glue the gripper rod down and
> then a second visit to fit the carpet?
>
> Thanks
>
> Tracey
>

In our last house which had a block and beam floor with screed covering (but not
sure what type) they cut the gripper into about foot long lengths and then they
glued it to the floor using industrial sized hot glue guns. We were there for 6
years and it never moved..  Glued a room and laid the carpet same day. Was done
in a number of rooms.
Cheers
Allan

--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "Tracey Gardner" <tracey.gardner@...>
wrote:
>
> What have people done when they have had carpets fitted over an anhydrite
> screed?
> Normally a carpet fitter would just nail gripper rod into wooden floors but
> I can't see them doing that around the edge of a screed?
> Do they glue it down?
> If they do, presumably that means a visit to glue the gripper rod down and
> then a second visit to fit the carpet?
>
> Thanks
>
> Tracey
>

Ouch. Nice though....

--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "sj_purser" <builder@...> wrote:
>
> Lee
>
> If you have deep pockets, Acorn Doors will make certified FD30 doors to
bespoke size with glazing, without wires in, (so normal looking glass).   Think
about over £1000 for a double set.
>
>
> http://www.acorndoors.co.uk/
>
> Simon
>
>
>
> --- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "leewild80" <muddyboots@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi all
> >
> > One of the doorways off our "protected" stairwell is a double door, and we'd
like if possible to have some glazing in it, to let some light through.
> >
> > Does anyone know if it's possible to glaze fire doors ?
> > I would imagine it requiring some stupidly expensive glass (preferably
without wires in).
> >
> > Also, I presume getting doors made by a joiner would mean they weren't
certified fire doors - so does that I'd have to find a certified, off-the shelf
pair ?
> >
> > Lee
> >
>

I have seen them use "Spray Mount", not what I would call a good
solution, so possibly best to ask the fitter before you hire him.

Rick

On Mon, 2009-11-09 at 19:26 +0000, Tracey Gardner wrote:
>
> What have people done when they have had carpets fitted over an
> anhydrite
> screed?
> Normally a carpet fitter would just nail gripper rod into wooden
> floors but
> I can't see them doing that around the edge of a screed?
> Do they glue it down?
> If they do, presumably that means a visit to glue the gripper rod down
> and
> then a second visit to fit the carpet?
>
> Thanks
>
> Tracey
>
>
>
>
>

Give the edges a couple of coats of a suitable primer after scraping away
any soft or loose material and laitance (use BAL APD or similar) then they
will probably use fast setting gripfix like they would on MDF stair treads.
Certainly no need to go away and come back as it sets in minutes (as I found
when used on my stairs and the rod was not quite in the right place but not
noticed until 2-3 minutes after it was placed and now remains forever in
place!).



Neil B.



From: UK_Selfbuild@... [mailto:UK_Selfbuild@...]
On Behalf Of Tracey Gardner
Sent: 09 November 2009 19:27
To: UK_Selfbuild@...
Subject: UK_Selfbuild Carpet Fitting - Gripper rod and Screed?





What have people done when they have had carpets fitted over an anhydrite
screed?
Normally a carpet fitter would just nail gripper rod into wooden floors but
I can't see them doing that around the edge of a screed?
Do they glue it down?
If they do, presumably that means a visit to glue the gripper rod down and
then a second visit to fit the carpet?

Thanks

Tracey





[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

if it's not to late to change, these guys seem to have set about addressing
the problems with built-in vacuums -  at any rate, their Millennium models
look to be the ones we'll go-for :

http://www.cvcdirect.co.uk/cvcdirect-millea.html

worth a look, maybe ?

Chris



On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 7:04 PM, rex-butcher@... <
rex-butcher@...> wrote:

>
>
> Pete,
>
> Thanks for your reply. Have to admit that you have probably hit the nail on
> the head; the spring contact breaking was with the supplier said, but
> frankly, the VacSweep spring switch is the same.
>
> FYI, this is a link to the VacSweep (
> http://www.thefind.com/appliances/browse-nutone-vacusweep-automatic-dust-pan).
> I just don't like the way it looks; the Pan looks better.
>
> Probably not having tiles in the kitchen, lino or something similar.
>
> Rex
>
> --- In UK_Selfbuild@... <UK_Selfbuild%40yahoogroups.co.uk>,
> "Pete Church" <yahoo@...> wrote:
> >
> > Rex,
> >
> >
> >
> > I've put VacPans in two houses now and not had a problem with them
> breaking.
> > Have never come across a Vac Sweep.
> >
> >
> >
> > The Vac Pans are quite flimsy, and the mechanical "switch" is the sort of
> > thing you would have created in a physics lesson out of a paperclip and a
> > couple of nails - I'd see that as a weakness but would presume that the
> Vac
> > Sweep may be no better.
> >
> >
> >
> > Only thing I would say is that if you're installing in a tiled floor make
> > sure it is not on a tile join as it leaves a little gap underneath that
> an
> > amazing amount of dirt disappears under.
> >
> >
> >
> > Pete
> >
> >
> >
> > _____
> >
> > From: UK_Selfbuild@...
<UK_Selfbuild%40yahoogroups.co.uk>[mailto:
> UK_Selfbuild@... <UK_Selfbuild%40yahoogroups.co.uk>]
> > On Behalf Of Rex
> > Sent: 07 November 2009 20:07
> > To: SelfBuildHouse
> > Subject: UK_Selfbuild Central Vac
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Hi there,
> >
> > I have had all the bits and pieces for the central vac delivered and most
> of
> > the first fix
> > is installed.
> >
> > One item that I expected was a kitchen VacPan but what I got is a
> VacSweep.
> > The
> > difference is that the Pan has a foot operated rocker switch while the
> Pan
> > has a toe flap
> > to raise and lower.
> >
> > I was told that the VacPan breaks quickly and the Sweep is better, but
> > frankly I think I
> > am being told what they are trying to sell.
> >
> > Anyone got experience of the Pan/Sweep issue, if it's an issue?
> >
> > Many thanks,
> >
> > Rex
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

What have people done when they have had carpets fitted over an anhydrite
screed?
Normally a carpet fitter would just nail gripper rod into wooden floors but
I can't see them doing that around the edge of a screed?
Do they glue it down?
If they do, presumably that means a visit to glue the gripper rod down and
then a second visit to fit the carpet?

Thanks

Tracey

can you not dig a deep trench alongside your tank
and put in a french drain holey pipe
lower than your tank,
and aim the surface rainwater and gutters into it
so that this will now be the easiest route
so water will go there not undermine your tank?

ish

~
~  [g]  ~  [george]  ~
--------------------------------------------------
From: <rex-butcher@...>
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 7:09 PM
To: <UK_Selfbuild@...>
Subject: Re: UK_Selfbuild If it ain't one thing, it's another!

> Getting older and forgetful.  Don't recall seeing the concrete being
> poured but it did not float as it was filled with water during the
> concrete pour.
>
> Unfortunately, I also don't have any photos of the tank surrounded by
> concrete, but one image taken during the ring beam pour, shows a line of
> concrete going to the tank location.  I know the concrete was poured at
> the same time, I just don't' recall seeing it.  But I must have!
>
> Have spoken with the build insurance company who are trying to be helpful,
> but since there is no damage (yet), the policy does not cover anything.
> If I split the tank or cause it to float out of the ground, that will be
> fine!
>
> Rex
>
> --- In UK_Selfbuild@..., Rick <rick@...> wrote:
>>
>> If you filled around the tank with concrete, and the tank was empty it
>> would have floated out of the concete. I tell you this, as maybe you can
>> remember if the tank was empty when the concrete was poured.
>>
>> Rick
>>
>> On Sun, 2009-11-08 at 20:11 +0000, rex-butcher@... wrote:
>> >
>> > Nick,
>> >
>> > Thanks for your reply.
>> >
>> > Our tank is 2.1m in diameter with a sort of ridge around its middle. I
>> > am having a hard time recalling how the concrete was filled, and of
>> > course, I don't have any photos, but I'm pretty sure that it was
>> > filled up to over half way, so as to lock it into the ground.
>> >
>> > At the front and the back of the tank now, I can drop a scaffold pole
>> > deeper than 1 meter, by which time I should be hitting the concrete.
>> > There seems to be nothing at the front and the back.
>> >
>> > When the tank was installed, it was not immediately filled with
>> > concrete. Rain came and the collapsed. When the fill happened, one
>> > side was therefore a large triangular wedge, the other three sides
>> > more or less, being OK. I wonder if this large 'triangle' has been
>> > under cut by running water and split away? If so, I don't know hwat to
>> > do?
>> >
>> > Am contacting the groundworker and see what he suggests. Whatever the
>> > solution, it will be more money into the black hole.
>> >
>> > Rex
>> >
>> > --- In UK_Selfbuild@..., Nick Laurie <nwlaurie@>
>> > wrote:
>> > >
>> > > With our (septic) tank the concrete only covers the feet, still a
>> > fair
>> > > old wodge but not half (or even a quarter) as bad as actually
>> > > surrounding the tank. Could his be the case with yours?
>> > > And, no, it would be unbelievably unlikely (though not 100%
>> > > impossible) for a concrete foot, collar, ring or jacket to split in
>> > > two - and it would have to do it in the first couple (?) of hours
>> > > after pouring.
>> > > Nick
>> > >
>> > > Nick Laurie PC Repairs
>> > > nwlaurie@
>> > > Skype: nicklaurie
>> > > 01458 250834 and 07941 731056
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > On 7 Nov 2009, at 18:05, rex-butcher@ wrote:
>> > >
>> > > > Nearest river is god knows where!
>> > > >
>> > > > Not really possible to run the water into the sewerage. Our land
>> > is
>> > > > on a slight slope running from the road, downhill.
>> > > >
>> > > > I was chatting with a neighbour and think I know where the water
>> > is
>> > > > coming from. We don't have gutters yet, so all rainwater is
>> > hitting
>> > > > the ground, finding the easiest route, which is to follow the
>> > pea-
>> > > > shingle surrounding the pipes leading to the rainwater tank and
>> > > > then, presumably, following the pea-shingle route to the soakaway.
>> > > >
>> > > > But how to fill the cavity once the gutters are up and running. I
>> > > > suggested rubble, but he feels this would not be a good idea as
>> > > > there is still plenty of room for water. Obviously compacted soil
>> > > > would be best, but that would not be easy with a cavity filled
>> > with
>> > > > water.
>> > > >
>> > > > Was prodding around the holes today (one at the front and one at
>> > the
>> > > > back of the tank) and it seems to me that there is no concrete
>> > > > surrounding it. I know there was concrete. Could it be possible
>> > > > for the concrete to split in half?
>> > > >
>> > > > Any suggestions would be most welcome.
>> > > >
>> > > > Rex (wishing I had never started!)
>> > > >
>> > > > --- In UK_Selfbuild@..., Rick <rick@> wrote:
>> > > >>
>> > > >> We ran out almost 300m of pipe to a river, this may be an option
>> > > >> for you
>> > > >> to consider.
>> > > >>
>> > > >> Rick
>> > > >>
>> > > >>
>> > > >> On Fri, 2009-11-06 at 19:20 +0000, Rex wrote:
>> > > >>>
>> > > >>> Hi there,
>> > > >>>
>> > > >>> Last year, as the groundworks were being done, we had a
>> > rainwater
>> > > >>> tank
>> > > >>> installed. Having
>> > > >>> put the tank in the ground, they decided to wait until the slab
>> > was
>> > > >>> being poured to
>> > > >>> back-fill the hole with concrete. During the time, it rained and
>> > the
>> > > >>> hole grew, consuming
>> > > >>> more concrete than was intended. then the soil was replaced.
>> > > >>>
>> > > >>> Recently, on the overflow side of the tank, I have notice a
>> > slight
>> > > >>> depression and cracking
>> > > >>> in the ground. Today, it stood on it, thinking that the soil
>> > > >>> needed a
>> > > >>> bit of compaction,
>> > > >>> but no. It collapsed into a soak hole.
>> > > >>>
>> > > >>> My builder says that as the area around the tank is unfinished,
>> > it
>> > > >>> is
>> > > >>> acting like a
>> > > >>> funnel, water then taking the easiest route via the pea shingle
>> > that
>> > > >>> surrounds the
>> > > >>> overflow, towards the soakaway. The water is much deeper than
>> > the
>> > > >>> overflow, as I can see
>> > > >>> the pipework.
>> > > >>>
>> > > >>> What is the solution? Fill with rubble and hope it does not re-
>> > > >>> occur?
>> > > >>>
>> > > >>> Which brings me to the soakaway itself. I never wanted one, but
>> > > >>> Building Regs require it.
>> > > >>> Since it is buried in clay soil, why would the water soak away,
>> > > >>> especially in winter? (I
>> > > >>> used this argument with the BCO in a head banging attempt not
>> > to
>> > > >>> have
>> > > >>> one.) Surely the
>> > > >>> soil above/around the soakaway will become a quagmire?
>> > > >>>
>> > > >>> SWMBO is really upset as she is looking forward to working in
>> > 'her'
>> > > >>> garden and now thinks
>> > > >>> it is all going to erode away underground!
>> > > >>>
>> > > >>> Many thanks,
>> > > >>>
>> > > >>> Rex
>> > > >>>
>> > > >>>
>> > > >>>
>> > > >>>
>> > > >>>
>> > > >>
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > > ------------------------------------
>> > > >
>> > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> > > > UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
>> > > > The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
>> > > > To contact the moderator eMail: Rick_Hughes@
>> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick_Hughes@...
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>

Lee

If you have deep pockets, Acorn Doors will make certified FD30 doors to bespoke
size with glazing, without wires in, (so normal looking glass).   Think about
over £1000 for a double set.


http://www.acorndoors.co.uk/

Simon



--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "leewild80" <muddyboots@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all
>
> One of the doorways off our "protected" stairwell is a double door, and we'd
like if possible to have some glazing in it, to let some light through.
>
> Does anyone know if it's possible to glaze fire doors ?
> I would imagine it requiring some stupidly expensive glass (preferably without
wires in).
>
> Also, I presume getting doors made by a joiner would mean they weren't
certified fire doors - so does that I'd have to find a certified, off-the shelf
pair ?
>
> Lee
>

Getting older and forgetful.  Don't recall seeing the concrete being poured but
it did not float as it was filled with water during the concrete pour.

Unfortunately, I also don't have any photos of the tank surrounded by concrete,
but one image taken during the ring beam pour, shows a line of concrete going to
the tank location.  I know the concrete was poured at the same time, I just
don't' recall seeing it.  But I must have!

Have spoken with the build insurance company who are trying to be helpful, but
since there is no damage (yet), the policy does not cover anything.  If I split
the tank or cause it to float out of the ground, that will be  fine!

Rex

--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., Rick <rick@...> wrote:
>
> If you filled around the tank with concrete, and the tank was empty it
> would have floated out of the concete. I tell you this, as maybe you can
> remember if the tank was empty when the concrete was poured.
>
> Rick
>
> On Sun, 2009-11-08 at 20:11 +0000, rex-butcher@... wrote:
> >
> > Nick,
> >
> > Thanks for your reply.
> >
> > Our tank is 2.1m in diameter with a sort of ridge around its middle. I
> > am having a hard time recalling how the concrete was filled, and of
> > course, I don't have any photos, but I'm pretty sure that it was
> > filled up to over half way, so as to lock it into the ground.
> >
> > At the front and the back of the tank now, I can drop a scaffold pole
> > deeper than 1 meter, by which time I should be hitting the concrete.
> > There seems to be nothing at the front and the back.
> >
> > When the tank was installed, it was not immediately filled with
> > concrete. Rain came and the collapsed. When the fill happened, one
> > side was therefore a large triangular wedge, the other three sides
> > more or less, being OK. I wonder if this large 'triangle' has been
> > under cut by running water and split away? If so, I don't know hwat to
> > do?
> >
> > Am contacting the groundworker and see what he suggests. Whatever the
> > solution, it will be more money into the black hole.
> >
> > Rex
> >
> > --- In UK_Selfbuild@..., Nick Laurie <nwlaurie@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > With our (septic) tank the concrete only covers the feet, still a
> > fair
> > > old wodge but not half (or even a quarter) as bad as actually
> > > surrounding the tank. Could his be the case with yours?
> > > And, no, it would be unbelievably unlikely (though not 100%
> > > impossible) for a concrete foot, collar, ring or jacket to split in
> > > two - and it would have to do it in the first couple (?) of hours
> > > after pouring.
> > > Nick
> > >
> > > Nick Laurie PC Repairs
> > > nwlaurie@
> > > Skype: nicklaurie
> > > 01458 250834 and 07941 731056
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > On 7 Nov 2009, at 18:05, rex-butcher@ wrote:
> > >
> > > > Nearest river is god knows where!
> > > >
> > > > Not really possible to run the water into the sewerage. Our land
> > is
> > > > on a slight slope running from the road, downhill.
> > > >
> > > > I was chatting with a neighbour and think I know where the water
> > is
> > > > coming from. We don't have gutters yet, so all rainwater is
> > hitting
> > > > the ground, finding the easiest route, which is to follow the
> > pea-
> > > > shingle surrounding the pipes leading to the rainwater tank and
> > > > then, presumably, following the pea-shingle route to the soakaway.
> > > >
> > > > But how to fill the cavity once the gutters are up and running. I
> > > > suggested rubble, but he feels this would not be a good idea as
> > > > there is still plenty of room for water. Obviously compacted soil
> > > > would be best, but that would not be easy with a cavity filled
> > with
> > > > water.
> > > >
> > > > Was prodding around the holes today (one at the front and one at
> > the
> > > > back of the tank) and it seems to me that there is no concrete
> > > > surrounding it. I know there was concrete. Could it be possible
> > > > for the concrete to split in half?
> > > >
> > > > Any suggestions would be most welcome.
> > > >
> > > > Rex (wishing I had never started!)
> > > >
> > > > --- In UK_Selfbuild@..., Rick <rick@> wrote:
> > > >>
> > > >> We ran out almost 300m of pipe to a river, this may be an option
> > > >> for you
> > > >> to consider.
> > > >>
> > > >> Rick
> > > >>
> > > >>
> > > >> On Fri, 2009-11-06 at 19:20 +0000, Rex wrote:
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Hi there,
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Last year, as the groundworks were being done, we had a
> > rainwater
> > > >>> tank
> > > >>> installed. Having
> > > >>> put the tank in the ground, they decided to wait until the slab
> > was
> > > >>> being poured to
> > > >>> back-fill the hole with concrete. During the time, it rained and
> > the
> > > >>> hole grew, consuming
> > > >>> more concrete than was intended. then the soil was replaced.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Recently, on the overflow side of the tank, I have notice a
> > slight
> > > >>> depression and cracking
> > > >>> in the ground. Today, it stood on it, thinking that the soil
> > > >>> needed a
> > > >>> bit of compaction,
> > > >>> but no. It collapsed into a soak hole.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> My builder says that as the area around the tank is unfinished,
> > it
> > > >>> is
> > > >>> acting like a
> > > >>> funnel, water then taking the easiest route via the pea shingle
> > that
> > > >>> surrounds the
> > > >>> overflow, towards the soakaway. The water is much deeper than
> > the
> > > >>> overflow, as I can see
> > > >>> the pipework.
> > > >>>
> > > >>> What is the solution? Fill with rubble and hope it does not re-
> > > >>> occur?
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Which brings me to the soakaway itself. I never wanted one, but
> > > >>> Building Regs require it.
> > > >>> Since it is buried in clay soil, why would the water soak away,
> > > >>> especially in winter? (I
> > > >>> used this argument with the BCO in a head banging attempt not
> > to
> > > >>> have
> > > >>> one.) Surely the
> > > >>> soil above/around the soakaway will become a quagmire?
> > > >>>
> > > >>> SWMBO is really upset as she is looking forward to working in
> > 'her'
> > > >>> garden and now thinks
> > > >>> it is all going to erode away underground!
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Many thanks,
> > > >>>
> > > >>> Rex
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>>
> > > >>
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > ------------------------------------
> > > >
> > > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > > UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> > > > The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> > > > To contact the moderator eMail: Rick_Hughes@
> > > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>

Pete,

Thanks for your reply.  Have to admit that you have probably hit the nail on the
head; the spring contact breaking was with the supplier said, but frankly, the
VacSweep spring switch is the same.

FYI, this is a link to the VacSweep (
http://www.thefind.com/appliances/browse-nutone-vacusweep-automatic-dust-pan). 
I just don't like the way it looks; the Pan looks better.

Probably not having tiles in the kitchen, lino or something similar.

Rex



--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "Pete Church" <yahoo@...> wrote:
>
> Rex,
>
>
>
> I've put VacPans in two houses now and not had a problem with them breaking.
> Have never come across a Vac Sweep.
>
>
>
> The Vac Pans are quite flimsy, and the mechanical "switch" is the sort of
> thing you would have created in a physics lesson out of a paperclip and a
> couple of nails - I'd see that as a weakness but would presume that the Vac
> Sweep may be no better.
>
>
>
> Only thing I would say is that if you're installing in a tiled floor make
> sure it is not on a tile join as it leaves a little gap underneath that an
> amazing amount of dirt disappears under.
>
>
>
> Pete
>
>
>
>   _____
>
> From: UK_Selfbuild@... [mailto:UK_Selfbuild@...]
> On Behalf Of Rex
> Sent: 07 November 2009 20:07
> To: SelfBuildHouse
> Subject: UK_Selfbuild Central Vac
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi there,
>
> I have had all the bits and pieces for the central vac delivered and most of
> the first fix
> is installed.
>
> One item that I expected was a kitchen VacPan but what I got is a VacSweep.
> The
> difference is that the Pan has a foot operated rocker switch while the Pan
> has a toe flap
> to raise and lower.
>
> I was told that the VacPan breaks quickly and the Sweep is better, but
> frankly I think I
> am being told what they are trying to sell.
>
> Anyone got experience of the Pan/Sweep issue, if it's an issue?
>
> Many thanks,
>
> Rex
>
>
>
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>

leewild80 wrote:
> I know fire doors are there for my own safety; but with so many interlinked
smoke & heat alarms, all mains powered & with battery backups...
>
.. none of which would actually hold back a fire or smoke.

Funny you say that; a little while ago the double fire doors on a lab at work
were being changed for something more secure, the thought process you've just
outlined also ran through my head, and they are now mine. Handles, decent
ball-race hinges, everything. Not sure the stainless steel kickplates,  warning
signs about anti-static precautions, and "no food/drink" signs are quite to my
taste but they can be pulled off... Not in perfect nick but I can always fill
any imperfections and paint if need be. Each door has a vertical column of 6"
square glazed areas, which lets a bit of light through (and you know you won't
whack anyone in the face when you open them...).
I would need to reduce the overall width by 1-2", and it can only be done on the
hinge edges (as there's an intumescent strip on the facing edges) but with a bit
of hacking I'm sure they'll go in. Might mean planing beyind the timber edges
into the chipboard core though. They would have gone in a skip if I hadn't
claimed them so I've nothing to lose.

Should meet the regs if I choose to put them in, but they look horrible, very
corporate and couldn't be a more different style to all the other doors we've
got.

I know fire doors are there for my own safety; but with so many interlinked
smoke & heat alarms, all mains powered & with battery backups...


--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "Tracey Gardner" <tracey.gardner@...>
wrote:
>
> I'm afraid that most people would fit a cheap solid fire door and then
> change it out for whatever they like after they have got their BR approval.
>
> Tracey
>
>
> > Hi all
> >
> > One of the doorways off our "protected" stairwell is a double door, and
> > we'd like if possible to have some glazing in it, to let some light
> > through.
> >
> > Does anyone know if it's possible to glaze fire doors ?
> > I would imagine it requiring some stupidly expensive glass (preferably
> > without wires in).
> >
> > Also, I presume getting doors made by a joiner would mean they weren't
> > certified fire doors - so does that I'd have to find a certified, off-the
> > shelf pair ?
> >
> > Lee
> >
>

I'm afraid that most people would fit a cheap solid fire door and then
change it out for whatever they like after they have got their BR approval.

Tracey


> Hi all
>
> One of the doorways off our "protected" stairwell is a double door, and
> we'd like if possible to have some glazing in it, to let some light
> through.
>
> Does anyone know if it's possible to glaze fire doors ?
> I would imagine it requiring some stupidly expensive glass (preferably
> without wires in).
>
> Also, I presume getting doors made by a joiner would mean they weren't
> certified fire doors - so does that I'd have to find a certified, off-the
> shelf pair ?
>
> Lee
>

I think (but could easily be wrong!) that to get certification a sample door has
to be destructively tested, so it's a bit of a no-no for a one-off, otherwise
you end up paying double - and that's IF the first set passes the test!  I guess
the test itself also has a cost involved...



To: UK_Selfbuild@...
From: muddyboots@...
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 12:25:13 +0000
Subject: UK_Selfbuild Double fire doors, with glazing ?





Hi all

One of the doorways off our "protected" stairwell is a double door, and we'd
like if possible to have some glazing in it, to let some light through.

Does anyone know if it's possible to glaze fire doors ?
I would imagine it requiring some stupidly expensive glass (preferably without
wires in).

Also, I presume getting doors made by a joiner would mean they weren't certified
fire doors - so does that I'd have to find a certified, off-the shelf pair ?

Lee





_________________________________________________________________
Chat to your friends for free on selected mobiles
http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/174426567/direct/01/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

"I sometimes wonder if I think about these things a little too much ;)"



Better than too little!



To: UK_Selfbuild@...
From: muddyboots@...
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 12:16:02 +0000
Subject: UK_Selfbuild Re: Drilling holes into concrete lintels ?





Morning all

Thanks for the various replies !

Fitting a piece of timber directly to the lintel would probably have been the
best solution, but it's all boarded/skimmed/painted now so I don't want to start
chopping anything out or making a mess.

Whether heavy duty fixings into the plasterboard (dot'n'dabbed) will suffice,
I'm not sure - guess it depends on what design of brackets come with the curtain
pole (seen one in the shop, but not bought yet). As it's going to have curtains
with metal rings in, I guess there can only possibly be three support brackets,
and as the overall length is 3 metres that's quite a lot of weight to hang off
just three brackets.

Anyway, my main concern was if there are any rules that state drilling lintels
is a big no-no, but as several of you have replied and nobody has mentioned
anything along those lines I'm not so concerned now :)

If I do end up using a timber strip, I'll of course have to fix that to the
plasterboard (previous experience suggests gripfill won't do, as it'll just pull
the paint off!) - but unlike directly fixing 3 pole brackets to the wall, I can
put plenty of fixings along the length of the timber into the plasterboard to
spread the load.

I sometimes wonder if I think about these things a little too much ;)

Lee

--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "Graham Pye" <Graham@...> wrote:
>
> It may or not be frowned on, but you will find that they are b*****y hard to
> drill into, and they contain steel wires in the most awkward places...
>
> Won't heavy duty plasterboard fixings (the ones that open out like
> umbrellas, not the spring toggle things) cut it?
>
> Graham
>
> -----Original Message-----
> I need to fit a few curtain rails, and above most windows where I want to
> fit the rail, is a concrete lintel behind the plasterboard. The rails will
> be holding fairly large, heavy curtains so I'd like to anchor them in well.
>
> Is it considered OK to drill into lintels (I'm only talking holes big enough
> for a wall plug) ?
> Or would this be frowned upon ?
>
> Cheers
> Lee
>





_________________________________________________________________
New Windows 7: Find the right PC for you. Learn more.
http://www.microsoft.com/uk/windows/buy/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

how about an alternative approach - how about a couple of verticals, fixed
to the wall & going up behind the curtains, and a stiff (to avoid need for
other supports) pole between the two ... or, how about doing it all within
the window opening, fixing the rail to the side-walls (curtains can be done
in many styles, or blinds maybe) ?

Chris


On Mon, Nov 9, 2009 at 12:16 PM, leewild80 <muddyboots@...> wrote:

>
>
> Morning all
>
> Thanks for the various replies !
>
> Fitting a piece of timber directly to the lintel would probably have been
> the best solution, but it's all boarded/skimmed/painted now so I don't want
> to start chopping anything out or making a mess.
>
> Whether heavy duty fixings into the plasterboard (dot'n'dabbed) will
> suffice, I'm not sure - guess it depends on what design of brackets come
> with the curtain pole (seen one in the shop, but not bought yet). As it's
> going to have curtains with metal rings in, I guess there can only possibly
> be three support brackets, and as the overall length is 3 metres that's
> quite a lot of weight to hang off just three brackets.
>
> Anyway, my main concern was if there are any rules that state drilling
> lintels is a big no-no, but as several of you have replied and nobody has
> mentioned anything along those lines I'm not so concerned now :)
>
> If I do end up using a timber strip, I'll of course have to fix that to the
> plasterboard (previous experience suggests gripfill won't do, as it'll just
> pull the paint off!) - but unlike directly fixing 3 pole brackets to the
> wall, I can put plenty of fixings along the length of the timber into the
> plasterboard to spread the load.
>
> I sometimes wonder if I think about these things a little too much ;)
>
> Lee
>
> --- In UK_Selfbuild@... <UK_Selfbuild%40yahoogroups.co.uk>,
> "Graham Pye" <Graham@...> wrote:
> >
> > It may or not be frowned on, but you will find that they are b*****y hard
> to
> > drill into, and they contain steel wires in the most awkward places...
> >
> > Won't heavy duty plasterboard fixings (the ones that open out like
> > umbrellas, not the spring toggle things) cut it?
> >
> > Graham
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > I need to fit a few curtain rails, and above most windows where I want to
> > fit the rail, is a concrete lintel behind the plasterboard. The rails
> will
> > be holding fairly large, heavy curtains so I'd like to anchor them in
> well.
> >
> > Is it considered OK to drill into lintels (I'm only talking holes big
> enough
> > for a wall plug) ?
> > Or would this be frowned upon ?
> >
> > Cheers
> > Lee
> >
>
>
>


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

You might not find it too difficult to remove a section of plasterboard so
that you can glue a piece of timber direct to the steel - which would be the
best solution IMO. Of course, it all depends how heavy your curtains will
be, and how solid the plasterboard. If you were using Fermacell it would be
easier.

2009/11/9 leewild80 <muddyboots@...>

>
>
> Morning all
>
> Thanks for the various replies !
>
> Fitting a piece of timber directly to the lintel would probably have been
> the best solution, but it's all boarded/skimmed/painted now so I don't want
> to start chopping anything out or making a mess.
>
> Whether heavy duty fixings into the plasterboard (dot'n'dabbed) will
> suffice, I'm not sure - guess it depends on what design of brackets come
> with the curtain pole (seen one in the shop, but not bought yet). As it's
> going to have curtains with metal rings in, I guess there can only possibly
> be three support brackets, and as the overall length is 3 metres that's
> quite a lot of weight to hang off just three brackets.
>
> Anyway, my main concern was if there are any rules that state drilling
> lintels is a big no-no, but as several of you have replied and nobody has
> mentioned anything along those lines I'm not so concerned now :)
>
> If I do end up using a timber strip, I'll of course have to fix that to the
> plasterboard (previous experience suggests gripfill won't do, as it'll just
> pull the paint off!) - but unlike directly fixing 3 pole brackets to the
> wall, I can put plenty of fixings along the length of the timber into the
> plasterboard to spread the load.
>
> I sometimes wonder if I think about these things a little too much ;)
>
> Lee
>
> --- In UK_Selfbuild@... <UK_Selfbuild%40yahoogroups.co.uk>,
> "Graham Pye" <Graham@...> wrote:
> >
> > It may or not be frowned on, but you will find that they are b*****y hard
> to
> > drill into, and they contain steel wires in the most awkward places...
> >
> > Won't heavy duty plasterboard fixings (the ones that open out like
> > umbrellas, not the spring toggle things) cut it?
> >
> > Graham
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > I need to fit a few curtain rails, and above most windows where I want to
> > fit the rail, is a concrete lintel behind the plasterboard. The rails
> will
> > be holding fairly large, heavy curtains so I'd like to anchor them in
> well.
> >
> > Is it considered OK to drill into lintels (I'm only talking holes big
> enough
> > for a wall plug) ?
> > Or would this be frowned upon ?
> >
> > Cheers
> > Lee
> >
>
>
>



--
Peter English
Surrey, UK


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Lee
I have done this in similar circumstances and recommend the following
drill  holes in the plasterboard at appropriate centres to aim to fill
the void behind the plasterboard and lintel in the area of the
prospective curtain rail board
fill with foam behind to act as support and glue between lintel and
plasterboard
cover the holes with the new board which is best of ply suitably
shaped and painted (primed etc ) so where it has been cut and worked
it is smooth as wood
put in plasterboard fixings at really close centres as well as grip
fill or some other adhesive between plasterboard and timber (if the
plaster board has already been skimmed consider removing skip if
easily chipped off but NOT if it makes a mess)
put on the timber and Bob's your Uncle

I would make the ply a decent thickness and additionally if you know
exactly where the three brackets are to be I would definitely use a
Fein multimaster to cut out a rectangle of plaster say about 6" by 4"
by 12.5mm  minimum and add that to the back of the board in the three
places with glue and insert it in the void instead of the plasterboard
thus giving much more depth of purchase for the screws
Chris
On 9 Nov 2009, at 12:21, leewild80 wrote:

> By the way, the lintel in question spans this entire window:
> http://tinyurl.com/yard8cd
> ...and supports this ruddy great oak beam - and therefore most of
> the floor above:
> http://tinyurl.com/yhs5j77
>
> Perhaps you can see why I wanted to check I wasn't doing something
> dangerous !
>
> Cheers
> Lee
>
> --- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "leewild80" <muddyboots@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > Morning all
> >
> > Thanks for the various replies !
> >
> > Fitting a piece of timber directly to the lintel would probably
> have been the best solution, but it's all boarded/skimmed/painted
> now so I don't want to start chopping anything out or making a mess.
> >
> > Whether heavy duty fixings into the plasterboard (dot'n'dabbed)
> will suffice, I'm not sure - guess it depends on what design of
> brackets come with the curtain pole (seen one in the shop, but not
> bought yet). As it's going to have curtains with metal rings in, I
> guess there can only possibly be three support brackets, and as the
> overall length is 3 metres that's quite a lot of weight to hang off
> just three brackets.
> >
> > Anyway, my main concern was if there are any rules that state
> drilling lintels is a big no-no, but as several of you have replied
> and nobody has mentioned anything along those lines I'm not so
> concerned now :)
> >
> > If I do end up using a timber strip, I'll of course have to fix
> that to the plasterboard (previous experience suggests gripfill
> won't do, as it'll just pull the paint off!) - but unlike directly
> fixing 3 pole brackets to the wall, I can put plenty of fixings
> along the length of the timber into the plasterboard to spread the
> load.
> >
> >
> > I sometimes wonder if I think about these things a little too
> much ;)
> >
> > Lee
> >
> >
> > --- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "Graham Pye" <Graham@> wrote:
> > >
> > > It may or not be frowned on, but you will find that they are
> b*****y hard to
> > > drill into, and they contain steel wires in the most awkward
> places...
> > >
> > > Won't heavy duty plasterboard fixings (the ones that open out like
> > > umbrellas, not the spring toggle things) cut it?
> > >
> > > Graham
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > I need to fit a few curtain rails, and above most windows where
> I want to
> > > fit the rail, is a concrete lintel behind the plasterboard. The
> rails will
> > > be holding fairly large, heavy curtains so I'd like to anchor
> them in well.
> > >
> > > Is it considered OK to drill into lintels (I'm only talking
> holes big enough
> > > for a wall plug) ?
> > > Or would this be frowned upon ?
> > >
> > > Cheers
> > > Lee
> > >
> >
>
>
>

Dr CJD George
Director
020 8874 2013 (Answer 'phone/office)
07804 801149 Mob (only for current contracts please)
mail@...






[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

hi
remove plaster back to lintel, epoxy in some 1" timber and secure rail to that.
you could glue wood to plaster but IMHO it will not last with heavy curtains.
yours James


--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., Eric MEARS <Eric.Mears@...> wrote:
>
> Better still (but perhaps too late for Lee - sorry !) to gripfix a bit of
> wood to the wall before you fix plaster board (or even apply real plaster).
>
> It can be difficult drilling into a lintel but can be done.  If you hit
> steel,  STOP then drill again an inch to one side.  I really wouldn't have
> thought a short, quarter inch hole (or even a pair) would weaken the lintel
> very much (but don't send me the bill when the wall collapses).
>  
> Regards
>  
> Eric Mears
> CHESTERFIELD
> Derbyshire
>  
> -----Original Message-----
> From: @yahoogroups.co.uk [mailto:UK_Selfbuild@...] On Behalf
> Of Nick Laurie
> Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 12:15 AM
>
>
> Yes!
>
> Nick Laurie PC Repairs
> (from iPhone)
>
> On 9 Nov 2009, at 12:10 AM, "dicegeorge" wrote:
>
> > wouldn't it be better to cut away the plasterboard
> > and the gripfix to the concrete lintel? [g]
>
>  [george
> > --------------------------------------------------
> > From: "David Wadge"
> > Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 11:31 PM
> >
> >> Gripfix a wooden batten on the plasterboard then fix the curtain
> >> rail to the wood...
> >>
> >> D
> >> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
> >> From: "Graham Pye"
> >> Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 22:54:47 -0000
> >>
> >> It may or not be frowned on, but you will find that they are
> >> b*****y hard to drill into, and they contain steel wires in the most
> awkward  places...
>
> Won't heavy duty plasterboard fixings (the ones that open out like
> umbrellas, not the spring toggle things) cut it?
> >>
> >> Graham
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> I need to fit a few curtain rails, and above most windows where I
> >> want to fit the rail, is a concrete lintel behind the plasterboard. The
> >>    rails will be holding fairly large, heavy curtains so I'd
> >>e to anchor them in well.
> >>
> >> Is it considered OK to drill into lintels (I'm only talking holes big
> >> enough  for a wall plug) ?
> >> Or would this be frowned upon ?
> >>
> >> Cheers
> >> Lee
>

Hi all

One of the doorways off our "protected" stairwell is a double door, and we'd
like if possible to have some glazing in it, to let some light through.

Does anyone know if it's possible to glaze fire doors ?
I would imagine it requiring some stupidly expensive glass (preferably without
wires in).

Also, I presume getting doors made by a joiner would mean they weren't certified
fire doors - so does that I'd have to find a certified, off-the shelf pair ?

Lee

By the way, the lintel in question spans this entire window:
http://tinyurl.com/yard8cd
...and supports this ruddy great oak beam - and therefore most of the floor
above:
http://tinyurl.com/yhs5j77

Perhaps you can see why I wanted to check I wasn't doing something dangerous !

Cheers
Lee


--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "leewild80" <muddyboots@...> wrote:
>
> Morning all
>
> Thanks for the various replies !
>
> Fitting a piece of timber directly to the lintel would probably have been the
best solution, but it's all boarded/skimmed/painted now so I don't want to start
chopping anything out or making a mess.
>
> Whether heavy duty fixings into the plasterboard (dot'n'dabbed) will suffice,
I'm not sure - guess it depends on what design of brackets come with the curtain
pole (seen one in the shop, but not bought yet). As it's going to have curtains
with metal rings in, I guess there can only possibly be three support brackets,
and as the overall length is 3 metres that's quite a lot of weight to hang off
just three brackets.
>
> Anyway, my main concern was if there are any rules that state drilling lintels
is a big no-no, but as several of you have replied and nobody has mentioned
anything along those lines I'm not so concerned now :)
>
> If I do end up using a timber strip, I'll of course have to fix that to the
plasterboard (previous experience suggests gripfill won't do, as it'll just pull
the paint off!) - but unlike directly fixing 3 pole brackets to the wall, I can
put plenty of fixings along the length of the timber into the plasterboard to
spread the load.
>
>
> I sometimes wonder if I think about these things a little too much ;)
>
> Lee
>
>
> --- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "Graham Pye" <Graham@> wrote:
> >
> > It may or not be frowned on, but you will find that they are b*****y hard to
> > drill into, and they contain steel wires in the most awkward places...
> >
> > Won't heavy duty plasterboard fixings (the ones that open out like
> > umbrellas, not the spring toggle things) cut it?
> >
> > Graham
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > I need to fit a few curtain rails, and above most windows where I want to
> > fit the rail, is a concrete lintel behind the plasterboard. The rails will
> > be holding fairly large, heavy curtains so I'd like to anchor them in well.
> >
> > Is it considered OK to drill into lintels (I'm only talking holes big enough
> > for a wall plug) ?
> > Or would this be frowned upon ?
> >
> > Cheers
> > Lee
> >
>

Morning all

Thanks for the various replies !

Fitting a piece of timber directly to the lintel would probably have been the
best solution, but it's all boarded/skimmed/painted now so I don't want to start
chopping anything out or making a mess.

Whether heavy duty fixings into the plasterboard (dot'n'dabbed) will suffice,
I'm not sure - guess it depends on what design of brackets come with the curtain
pole (seen one in the shop, but not bought yet). As it's going to have curtains
with metal rings in, I guess there can only possibly be three support brackets,
and as the overall length is 3 metres that's quite a lot of weight to hang off
just three brackets.

Anyway, my main concern was if there are any rules that state drilling lintels
is a big no-no, but as several of you have replied and nobody has mentioned
anything along those lines I'm not so concerned now :)

If I do end up using a timber strip, I'll of course have to fix that to the
plasterboard (previous experience suggests gripfill won't do, as it'll just pull
the paint off!) - but unlike directly fixing 3 pole brackets to the wall, I can
put plenty of fixings along the length of the timber into the plasterboard to
spread the load.


I sometimes wonder if I think about these things a little too much ;)

Lee


--- In UK_Selfbuild@..., "Graham Pye" <Graham@...> wrote:
>
> It may or not be frowned on, but you will find that they are b*****y hard to
> drill into, and they contain steel wires in the most awkward places...
>
> Won't heavy duty plasterboard fixings (the ones that open out like
> umbrellas, not the spring toggle things) cut it?
>
> Graham
>
> -----Original Message-----
> I need to fit a few curtain rails, and above most windows where I want to
> fit the rail, is a concrete lintel behind the plasterboard. The rails will
> be holding fairly large, heavy curtains so I'd like to anchor them in well.
>
> Is it considered OK to drill into lintels (I'm only talking holes big enough
> for a wall plug) ?
> Or would this be frowned upon ?
>
> Cheers
> Lee
>

If you filled around the tank with concrete, and the tank was empty it
would have floated out of the concete. I tell you this, as maybe you can
remember if the tank was empty when the concrete was poured.

Rick

On Sun, 2009-11-08 at 20:11 +0000, rex-butcher@... wrote:
>
> Nick,
>
> Thanks for your reply.
>
> Our tank is 2.1m in diameter with a sort of ridge around its middle. I
> am having a hard time recalling how the concrete was filled, and of
> course, I don't have any photos, but I'm pretty sure that it was
> filled up to over half way, so as to lock it into the ground.
>
> At the front and the back of the tank now, I can drop a scaffold pole
> deeper than 1 meter, by which time I should be hitting the concrete.
> There seems to be nothing at the front and the back.
>
> When the tank was installed, it was not immediately filled with
> concrete. Rain came and the collapsed. When the fill happened, one
> side was therefore a large triangular wedge, the other three sides
> more or less, being OK. I wonder if this large 'triangle' has been
> under cut by running water and split away? If so, I don't know hwat to
> do?
>
> Am contacting the groundworker and see what he suggests. Whatever the
> solution, it will be more money into the black hole.
>
> Rex
>
> --- In UK_Selfbuild@..., Nick Laurie <nwlaurie@...>
> wrote:
> >
> > With our (septic) tank the concrete only covers the feet, still a
> fair
> > old wodge but not half (or even a quarter) as bad as actually
> > surrounding the tank. Could his be the case with yours?
> > And, no, it would be unbelievably unlikely (though not 100%
> > impossible) for a concrete foot, collar, ring or jacket to split in
> > two - and it would have to do it in the first couple (?) of hours
> > after pouring.
> > Nick
> >
> > Nick Laurie PC Repairs
> > nwlaurie@...
> > Skype: nicklaurie
> > 01458 250834 and 07941 731056
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > On 7 Nov 2009, at 18:05, rex-butcher@... wrote:
> >
> > > Nearest river is god knows where!
> > >
> > > Not really possible to run the water into the sewerage. Our land
> is
> > > on a slight slope running from the road, downhill.
> > >
> > > I was chatting with a neighbour and think I know where the water
> is
> > > coming from. We don't have gutters yet, so all rainwater is
> hitting
> > > the ground, finding the easiest route, which is to follow the
> pea-
> > > shingle surrounding the pipes leading to the rainwater tank and
> > > then, presumably, following the pea-shingle route to the soakaway.
> > >
> > > But how to fill the cavity once the gutters are up and running. I
> > > suggested rubble, but he feels this would not be a good idea as
> > > there is still plenty of room for water. Obviously compacted soil
> > > would be best, but that would not be easy with a cavity filled
> with
> > > water.
> > >
> > > Was prodding around the holes today (one at the front and one at
> the
> > > back of the tank) and it seems to me that there is no concrete
> > > surrounding it. I know there was concrete. Could it be possible
> > > for the concrete to split in half?
> > >
> > > Any suggestions would be most welcome.
> > >
> > > Rex (wishing I had never started!)
> > >
> > > --- In UK_Selfbuild@..., Rick <rick@> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> We ran out almost 300m of pipe to a river, this may be an option
> > >> for you
> > >> to consider.
> > >>
> > >> Rick
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> On Fri, 2009-11-06 at 19:20 +0000, Rex wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> Hi there,
> > >>>
> > >>> Last year, as the groundworks were being done, we had a
> rainwater
> > >>> tank
> > >>> installed. Having
> > >>> put the tank in the ground, they decided to wait until the slab
> was
> > >>> being poured to
> > >>> back-fill the hole with concrete. During the time, it rained and
> the
> > >>> hole grew, consuming
> > >>> more concrete than was intended. then the soil was replaced.
> > >>>
> > >>> Recently, on the overflow side of the tank, I have notice a
> slight
> > >>> depression and cracking
> > >>> in the ground. Today, it stood on it, thinking that the soil
> > >>> needed a
> > >>> bit of compaction,
> > >>> but no. It collapsed into a soak hole.
> > >>>
> > >>> My builder says that as the area around the tank is unfinished,
> it
> > >>> is
> > >>> acting like a
> > >>> funnel, water then taking the easiest route via the pea shingle
> that
> > >>> surrounds the
> > >>> overflow, towards the soakaway. The water is much deeper than
> the
> > >>> overflow, as I can see
> > >>> the pipework.
> > >>>
> > >>> What is the solution? Fill with rubble and hope it does not re-
> > >>> occur?
> > >>>
> > >>> Which brings me to the soakaway itself. I never wanted one, but
> > >>> Building Regs require it.
> > >>> Since it is buried in clay soil, why would the water soak away,
> > >>> especially in winter? (I
> > >>> used this argument with the BCO in a head banging attempt not
> to
> > >>> have
> > >>> one.) Surely the
> > >>> soil above/around the soakaway will become a quagmire?
> > >>>
> > >>> SWMBO is really upset as she is looking forward to working in
> 'her'
> > >>> garden and now thinks
> > >>> it is all going to erode away underground!
> > >>>
> > >>> Many thanks,
> > >>>
> > >>> Rex
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > ------------------------------------
> > >
> > > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > > UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> > > The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> > > To contact the moderator eMail: Rick_Hughes@...
> > > Yahoo! Groups Links
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>

Good point !

In which case,  revise that to :-

If your ** first ** hole hits steel,  drill another an inch above or below
it.

If any other hole hits steel you've been very unlucky but moving up or down
is no longer an option (at least not for curtain rails - the SWMBOs of this
world take a dim view of bendy curtain rails <g>) so try moving sideways (or
re-drilling all the ones you’ve already done a bit higher or lower - & at
that point it starts to get more likely that you'll weaken the lintel !).

If you can convince SWMBO that a curtain track looks much nicer when it's on
a nicely finished wooden backing board then of course you can fix the wood
to the wall with gripfix &/or a couple of (larger) screws which don't need
to be in a straight line as you'll countersink them, fill heads & decorate
before hiding them further behind the rail.

 
 
Regards
 
Eric Mears
CHESTERFIELD
Derbyshire
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Jeffery Hardy
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 9:44 AM

In my experience the steel wires run along the length of the lintel, so
you'd have to move an inch up or down.

In my experience the steel wires run along the length of the lintel, so you'd
have to move an inch up or down.



To: UK_Selfbuild@...
From: Eric.Mears@...
Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 01:11:15 +0000
Subject: RE: UK_Selfbuild Drilling holes into concrete lintels ?





Better still (but perhaps too late for Lee - sorry !) to gripfix a bit of
wood to the wall before you fix plaster board (or even apply real plaster).

It can be difficult drilling into a lintel but can be done. If you hit
steel, STOP then drill again an inch to one side. I really wouldn't have
thought a short, quarter inch hole (or even a pair) would weaken the lintel
very much (but don't send me the bill when the wall collapses).

Regards

Eric Mears
CHESTERFIELD
Derbyshire

-----Original Message-----
From: @yahoogroups.co.uk [mailto:UK_Selfbuild@...] On Behalf
Of Nick Laurie
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 12:15 AM

Yes!

Nick Laurie PC Repairs
(from iPhone)

On 9 Nov 2009, at 12:10 AM, "dicegeorge" wrote:

> wouldn't it be better to cut away the plasterboard
> and the gripfix to the concrete lintel? [g]

[george
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "David Wadge"
> Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 11:31 PM
>
>> Gripfix a wooden batten on the plasterboard then fix the curtain
>> rail to the wood...
>>
>> D
>> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>> From: "Graham Pye"
>> Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 22:54:47 -0000
>>
>> It may or not be frowned on, but you will find that they are
>> b*****y hard to drill into, and they contain steel wires in the most
awkward places...

Won't heavy duty plasterboard fixings (the ones that open out like
umbrellas, not the spring toggle things) cut it?
>>
>> Graham
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> I need to fit a few curtain rails, and above most windows where I
>> want to fit the rail, is a concrete lintel behind the plasterboard. The
>> rails will be holding fairly large, heavy curtains so I'd
>>e to anchor them in well.
>>
>> Is it considered OK to drill into lintels (I'm only talking holes big
>> enough for a wall plug) ?
>> Or would this be frowned upon ?
>>
>> Cheers
>> Lee





_________________________________________________________________
New Windows 7: Simplify what you do everyday. Find the right PC for you.
http://www.microsoft.com/uk/windows/buy/

[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

Better still (but perhaps too late for Lee - sorry !) to gripfix a bit of
wood to the wall before you fix plaster board (or even apply real plaster).

It can be difficult drilling into a lintel but can be done.  If you hit
steel,  STOP then drill again an inch to one side.  I really wouldn't have
thought a short, quarter inch hole (or even a pair) would weaken the lintel
very much (but don't send me the bill when the wall collapses).
 
Regards
 
Eric Mears
CHESTERFIELD
Derbyshire
 
-----Original Message-----
From: @yahoogroups.co.uk [mailto:UK_Selfbuild@...] On Behalf
Of Nick Laurie
Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 12:15 AM


Yes!

Nick Laurie PC Repairs
(from iPhone)

On 9 Nov 2009, at 12:10 AM, "dicegeorge" wrote:

> wouldn't it be better to cut away the plasterboard
> and the gripfix to the concrete lintel? [g]

  [george
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "David Wadge"
> Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 11:31 PM
>
>> Gripfix a wooden batten on the plasterboard then fix the curtain
>> rail to the wood...
>>
>> D
>> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>> From: "Graham Pye"
>> Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 22:54:47 -0000
>>
>> It may or not be frowned on, but you will find that they are
>> b*****y hard to drill into, and they contain steel wires in the most
awkward  places...

Won't heavy duty plasterboard fixings (the ones that open out like
umbrellas, not the spring toggle things) cut it?
>>
>> Graham
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> I need to fit a few curtain rails, and above most windows where I
>> want to fit the rail, is a concrete lintel behind the plasterboard. The
>>    rails will be holding fairly large, heavy curtains so I'd
>>e to anchor them in well.
>>
>> Is it considered OK to drill into lintels (I'm only talking holes big
>> enough  for a wall plug) ?
>> Or would this be frowned upon ?
>>
>> Cheers
>> Lee

Yes!

Nick Laurie PC Repairs
(from iPhone)

On 9 Nov 2009, at 12:10 AM, "dicegeorge at hotmail dot com"
<dicegeorge@...
  > wrote:

> wouldnt it be better to cut away the plasterboard
> and the gripfix to the concrete lintel?
> ~
> ~  [g]  ~  [george]  ~  george@...   ~
> ~       07970 378 572    ~ ~   01568 760 333     ~
> ~                    www.dicegeorge.com   (c)2009.  ~
> ~
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "David Wadge" <david@...>
> Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 11:31 PM
> To: <UK_Selfbuild@...>
> Subject: RE: UK_Selfbuild Drilling holes into concrete lintels ?
>
>> Gripfix a wooden batten on the plasterboard then fix the curtain
>> rail to
>> the wood...
>>
>> D
>> ---------- Original Message ----------------------------------
>> From: "Graham Pye" <Graham@...>
>> Reply-To: UK_Selfbuild@...
>> Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 22:54:47 -0000
>>
>> It may or not be frowned on, but you will find that they are
>> b*****y hard
>> to
>> drill into, and they contain steel wires in the most awkward
>> places...
>>
>> Won't heavy duty plasterboard fixings (the ones that open out like
>> umbrellas, not the spring toggle things) cut it?
>>
>> Graham
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> I need to fit a few curtain rails, and above most windows where I
>> want to
>> fit the rail, is a concrete lintel behind the plasterboard. The
>> rails will
>> be holding fairly large, heavy curtains so I'd like to anchor them in
>> well.
>>
>> Is it considered OK to drill into lintels (I'm only talking holes big
>> enough
>> for a wall plug) ?
>> Or would this be frowned upon ?
>>
>> Cheers
>> Lee
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------
>>
>> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
>> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
>> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
>> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick_Hughes@...
>> Yahoo! Groups Links
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> ------------------------------------
>
> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> UK_Selfbuild-unsubscribe@...
> The FAQ is available at: http://www.borpin.co.uk
> To contact the moderator eMail: Rick_Hughes@...
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>