Energy efficient ceiling fans, whether indoors in an air conditioned
environment, in your home that lacks air conditioning or outdoors in the warm
summer air bring cost savings to your home and makes for a more energy efficient
house. In case of a home without air conditioning a whole house fan could be an
even better choice. This is due to a couple of unique factors and, this may
surprise you, but mainly it is due to how the human body cools itself.
Our body cools itself through evaporation from the surface of the skin. This
cooling effect can be increased by lowering the humidity in the
environment...why Arizona doesn't feel as hot as Louisiana at the same July
temperature. This comfort factor can also be increased by the movement of the
air over our skin or the air velocity. This is why a whole house fan or ceiling
fan "feels" so good. It is increasing the velocity of the air as it moves across
our skin and improving the evaporation effect. It is no different than the wind
chill factor in winter. We are just using the same physical phenomenon to
improve our summertime cooling and comfort.
Even if you have an energy efficient air conditioner you can still improve your
energy profile and cost savings by using ceiling fans. The air conditioner will
help control the humidity in the home and moving the air slowly will allow you
to raise your thermostat and still maintain the same comfort level. Sine it is
more expensive to condition the air than just move it, you will save on your
energy bill. Choose an Energy Star rated fan or not, you will still be more
comfortable while using less energy.
So, in summary, use your bodies own cooling mechanism to your advantage for home
energy efficiency by using ceiling fans or a whole house fan to increase the
air's velocity and lower your energy bill while improving your comfort. The same
principle works out on your deck or patio as well with an outdoor ceiling fan,
extending the days and hours you can spend outdoors in comfort whether by the
pool or barbecuing on the grill.

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If your windows are ancient and aren't doing a passable job of keeping the warm
air inside your house in cold weather (or keeping it out in warm weather), it
might be time to consider having new, energy saving windows put in. But new
windows, especially good quality energy saving ones, can be very expensive. As a
result, their payback period can be quite long. For the amount of cash you would
pay to redo the windows in a single big room, you can get almost the same energy
efficiency with some basic weather stripping and by using energy efficient
window coverings to eliminate heat transfer between your home and the out of
doors.
Let's first look at how windows help keep the cold out in winter, and the hot
air out in summer. Windows block heat transfer in three ways: convection,
conduction, and radiation.
Windows eliminate or reduce the convection airflow between the inside and
outside, blocking heat from passing through the window along with the airflow. A
leaky window, or one with cracked glass or broken putty, allows air through
these gaps, so heat gets out in winter, and heat leaks in during the summer.
Even a very thin sheet of glass has some insulating properties, but if the glass
is double-glazed and the space between the panes is an inert gas such as argon,
the panes provide extra insulating value, which reduces heat transfer through
conduction. Conduction is what causes the metal handles of a pot to heat up when
you boil water in the pot; so you can guess that a metal window frame, if not
properly built, can conduct a lot of heat. While you can't easily add extra
glass sheets to a window, there are other techniques to create additional still
air spaces between the window glass and the room, which will add insulation and
reduce conduction losses.
Radiation, the third type of heat transfer, usually occurs when light in the
infrared spectrum passes through windows, heating the air inside, or when heat
inside the room radiates out through the glass. Home energy auditors sometimes
take infrared photographs of a home to show where heat losses are most
significant, and windows are typically one of the largest sources of heat
escaping from houses in winter.
How does this knowledge about heat transfer through convection, conduction, and
radiation help you cut energy losses through your windows?
The first problem to address is convection. If your windows have cracked panes,
get them repaired. If you still have the old wood-framed windows with putty
holding the glass in, inspect the pane for any peeling or missing putty. It's
fairly easy to pull old putty out with a putty knife and put a fresh layer of
putty on in its place. If the wood of the window itself is broken, or if the
glass is hard to get out for replacing, you may not be able to put off getting
new windows, but if you can cut the small air leaks, you'll have gone a long way
towards minimizing energy losses and should feel some relief in your utility
bills.
You may be surprised to learn how much heat can travel out of a home in cold
weather through the wood trim around a window. Just wait for a really cold day,
put all the exhaust fans on in your house( kitchen range vent, bathroom exhaust
fans, etc.), and run your hand along the edges of window and exterior door trim
on the inside of rooms. Anywhere you feel cold air coming in, you have a draft
that should be sealed. It won't hurt to run a thin bead of clear or white
caulking around window and door frames to cut this convection heat transfer.
The last thing to try to reduce convection heat transfers is to use tape-on or
Zip-Loc type energy saving window kits to seal any windows that are particularly
drafty, or windows that really need replacing but that can't be replaced because
of your budget (or because you are renting the place). These kits are a great
way to rapidly reduce your heating losses in winter: the kits normally come with
several sheets of three by five foot transparent plastic, and a roll of double
sided tape. (If you have a large number of windows to cover you can purchase a
48" roll of the plastic and buy the tape separately.) You measure and cut
plastic rectangles slightly wider than the window, run the tape around the
window frame, peel off the protective tape from the double sided tape, then set
the cut plastic over the window, sealing along the tape line. Blow dry the
plastic for five minutes, and it shrinks to form a tight, flat extra pane of
'glass' that is hardly unnoticeable. This plastic can hold its taut shape for
months, although you may find it needs an occasional short blow dryer blast to
pull up the odd wrinkle in the plastic.
The next heat loss you'll want to address is conduction - heat being conducted
through the solid materials of the window. In terms of energy efficient window
coverings, your goal here isn't actually to avoid this conduction - you can't
usually change the materials the window was made of - but to add barrier layers
between the window and the room to slow the conduction down. The plastic window
insulation kits stop convection heat loss by eliminating drafts into the room,
but they also eliminate conduction, by providing a layer of trapped air between
the window and the room. A curtain can perform the same task: when closed, the
curtain traps a small amount of air between the curtain and the window, so that
on a cold day the air behind the curtain naturally gets cold but the room itself
stays cozy.
When you install curtains on windows to reduce conduction heat loss, it's
important to think about convection currents inside the living area. Hot air
rises, and cold air falls, so if you install curtains you should make sure the
air currents are stopped, preferably at both the top and bottom of the curtain.
Otherwise, in winter, the cold window will cool the air between the window and
the window covering, and that colder air will fall to the floor, pulling warm
air from above the window covering down in front of the window in a continuous
cycle. In summer, the flow runs the other way, with the air between the curtain
and the window warming from sunlight, rising out the top opening, and drawing
cool room air up towards the glass where it gets heated.
You should block these air flows by having the curtains flush against the wall
at the top and bottom, or by having the bottom touch the floor and by closing in
the curtain rod area at the top.
If you have cloth blinds that cover the window, you can use Velcro tabs along
the sides of the blinds that you then press into Velcro tape along the window
frame; this completely seals the air space between the window and the blind,
providing an above average insulation layer. Cloth blinds as well as curtains
can use a similar technique but with magnetic tape in the fabric, and metal on
the framing, so that the cloth sticks to the walls on either side of and below
the opening.
Another way you can try to add an insulation barrier to conduction through the
window is to buy cellular blinds, which are made in a cellular or honeycomb
cross section, or other blinds that incorporate a hollow space within the blind.
Cellular blinds when fully pulled up use almost no space and the cells fold
shut; when extended, they can add insulating value to a window from R-2 (for
single-cell thickness) to R-5 (for double-cell).
Window blinds can help address the final type of heat transfer, radiation, by
preventing heat from radiating through the glass (into the room from sunshine in
summer, and towards the outside from the indoor radiant heat in cold weather).
The most effective blinds use light, reflective colors on the outside, so that
sunlight in summer is more or less completely reflected away from the room. Good
window blinds can reflect sufficient solar energy away from a room to reduce
heat gain by as much as 45%, but they do very little to the R-value of the
window, so have little effect in winter.
Roller shades, which have a wind-up axle and can be pulled up or down (we used
to call these blinds when I was young) are a great radiation reflector, and also
provide superior insulating value to reduce convection air flows around the
window that lead to conduction losses through the glass or window frame. Roller
shades, because they are placed so close to the glass, do well at reducing
convection currents, especially if their side edges and bottom are attached to
the window frame (side tracks are used to accomplish this). Loose-sided shades
can reduce heat transfer by up to 28%, while attached-edge shades reduce it up
to 45%. Shades that can be reversed, with one side dark and the other light, are
even better, because you can use the light side to reflect the heat where you
want it (keep it out in hot weather, inside during winter).
Awnings and overhangs are a good way to cut direct light from entering a home
and heating it up in summer. Because the solar angle is lower in the winter,
such window coverings only block the sunlight you don't want, allowing the
lower-angled winter sun in to help heat your home.
Storm windows - which were added to many older homes - can be up to 50% more
energy efficient than single-pane windows, provided the storms are properly
sealed against air leakage. So if you have old wooden-framed storms sitting
around in your basement or garage, you should put them on each fall and take
them down once winter has passed. If you have aluminum framed storms you can
typically leave them up year round; just don't forget to slide the glass sash
shut when autumn comes.
Windows form such a small percentage of the surface area of a house, yet they
are one of the biggest potential sources of energy waste in a house being heated
or air conditioned. So you should strive to do anything you can to restrict heat
transfer through convection, conduction, and radiation. Just remember to set
aside a portion of the money you save on reduced utility bills, so you can
replace any old, energy wasting windows with brand new, energy efficient ones
when the time comes.

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You're sitting on the couch watching television and all of a sudden you feel a
draft that glides across your feet. You know your furnace is on because you hear
it running but you know there is draft in your room. You walk over to the window
and feel your hair move as you get closer. You have a drafty, inefficient
window. But does it end there? No, you discover a draft from your front door,
back door and even the electrical outlet next to your bed. You realize that you
are losing a lot of heat through poorly insulated areas of your home.
With rising energy prices, the time is here to think seriously about your home's
efficiency. The approach of spring makes it the perfect time to think about
optimizing your home's efficiency to lower your energy bills during the hot
summer and frigid winter months to come. Building or remodeling an
energy-efficient home takes some forethought and some initial up-front costs,
but the planning and the investment will pay off with healthier living
conditions and monetary savings in the future.
Here Are 4 Tips from AHA on How to Make Your Home Energy Efficient
1. Begin a preliminary search on-line
Websites such as the National Association of Home Builders site (www.NAHB.org)
can provide extensive information on recent developments in energy efficient
building and can also provide contact information for their local chapters.
These are often able to give specific information about maximizing energy
efficiency for situations unique to your area.
2. Look at your lights
If you're creating a new construction, position your home to take advantage of
the most daylight. Installing windows and skylights can decrease your electric
bills because you can take advantage of natural sunlight for longer hours during
the day.
3. Minimize air leaks
Installing good quality windows and doors is an important factor in saving
energy. Look for foam-insulated doors that are pre-hung at the factory in order
to provide a tight seal once they are installed. You can prevent heat-loss and
protect your home from moisture with double-, or even triple-hung windows. These
are expensive purchases, but the cost-benefit is well worth it during cold
winter months, or hot summer days.
In addition, protecting your home from moisture is a smart move because of the
damage moisture can do to wallboard and carpeting. Carpeting moisture promotes
the growth of mold. While mold can cause physical damage to your home, it can
also damage your delicate lungs and sinuses through daily exposure.
4. Insulate parts of your home that could leak air outside of the house
Electrical outlets, light switches and exhaust fans can have small gaps which
allow inside air to leak out. Combat this by filling the spaces around these
areas with spray foam insulation, which expands to fill those spaces. This
should be done in addition to installing high quality insulation in crawl
spaces, between walls and around venting ducts. You should also use mastic
sealing inside vent ducts when the ducts are installed. This is a sealant inside
of the duct can prevent air from escaping when traditional taping in the
ductwork begins to rot.
Building an energy efficient home is now more possible than ever. The market is
meeting the rising demand for energy efficient products which means a greater
variety for you. A well insulated home will keep dampness and outside air at
bay. So, to keep your family healthy and your utility bills down, try taking
some measures to make your home more energy efficient. The big pay-off will be
well worth a little bit of effort.

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Utility bills often consume a large sum of your household budget every month.
It's no fun when there are other, seemingly more important things to spend money
on. That's why it pays to know the strategies of lowering your utility bills.
Home insulation methods begin with inspecting the whole house. When you do this,
you will see that you have a lot of options for lowering your monthly utility
bills. Audit your household, taking special notice of the insulation. Modify
anything that you can to make energy use in your household more efficient. This
will definitely help your family in more ways than you can imagine.
Audit Insulation
You need to look at the different factors that contribute to energy loss when
auditing insulation. Ensuring that you have only the proper insulation installed
at home will boost your savings as you reduce your energy consumption. If you
own an older home, some walls may not be compatible to be insulated, but
remodeling them can make these areas accessible. Only make sure you utilize
appropriate insulation on the reconstructed area.
Windows and Doors
Windows and doors are usually the most problematic areas of your home. They
should be double checked for leaks. Leaks in these areas, if not immediately
mended, would lead to your heating or cooling system expending more energy than
needed. Check these leaks by feeling the temperature in the areas outside of
your home. Better yet, a contractor can conduct tests for other possible leaks
which you may not know about. Leaks can also be found in the basements and
crawlspaces, so you have to remember these areas as well.
Crevices and cracks around your windows and doors aren't very useful when you
are trying to maintain the air temperature inside your home. While holes and
small spaces where air can escape can't be avoided, filling in these cracks will
regulate temperature and airflow inside the house.
This is what weather stripping is for. Weather stripping fills in gaps between
windows and doors. Nowadays, you can install weather stripping on your own.
There are ready made ones that can be easily installed. You only need to attach
or paste it on the holes that need patching up.
You may also find air leaks elsewhere, such as around electrical switches,
outlets, pipes and bathtubs and shower stalls. Make sure not to overlook these
so you can be sure to have better installation and increase energy savings.
Attics
Attics play a big role in making sure your household is energy efficient.
Placing vents in this part of the house will maintain good circulation. However
if circulation is good enough, insulation may not be needed in this area. Holes
in the ceiling allow air to escape the attic, so make sure to seal them to save
on your energy consumption.
Fireplaces
Fireplaces may be useful to heat the household during cold seasons, but can also
be problematic when not in use. The fireplace may leak out the heat your heating
system produces and as a result, more energy will be required to heat your home.
To ensure that you are really lowering your utility bills, check that your flue
is always closed when not in use.
Window coverings
Windows easily let in the heat from the outside. Even if the cooling system is
operating and the windows are shut, heat can still come through the window as
radiation. This is why you need to make use of window coverings, which you can
buy or make. Curtains and blinds are good window coverings. They function well,
keeping the radiation flow minimized which will ensure the energy efficiency of
your cooling system.
Audit Insulation Needs
Home insulation methods can lower your monthly utility bills and save money if
you properly audit the insulation system in your home. Moreover the installed
heating or cooling system in your home should be optimized and not put to waste
as it operates to better make the family comfortable at home.
There are insulation products on the market that you could use to retain heat in
your home. These products can be purchased to seal areas where heat is likely to
escape. A professional contractor, however may be consulted to do the checking.
By doing this you will get professional advice on how much insulation your home
needs in order to lower your utility bills.
If you prefer to try some home insulation methods yourself, there are many
insulation books that you could use as a guide. There is also online information
on where to properly insulate and the recommended R-values for the specific area
of the household. The recommended R-value for the location of your home may vary
from a home in a different region. For this, your electric company or your gas
company can help you best. They can recommend according to your zip code and
your area which R-value is most appropriate.
Conclusion
It pays to ensure that your house has proper insulation. You can have a
professional audit your insulation or you can do it yourself. This is one
effective way to use energy efficiently, live comfortably at home and save a lot
for the needs of your family.

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Your household appliances are responsible for a large percentage of the energy
consumed in your home. As a matter of fact, the Environmental Protection Agency
(EPA) approximates that kitchen appliances account for almost half of the $2,000
that most average families spend on utilities each year. In addition, appliances
that are over 10 years old use more energy than their newer counterparts.
The Energy Star classification system was created by the EPA and the US Dept of
Energy (DOE). This system identifies home appliances that decrease energy
consumption, lower your utility bills and improve the air quality in your home.
Energy Star appliances are usually more expensive than traditional models but
the savings in daily energy usage will help them pay for themselves in the long
term. Some Energy Star appliances can even save you up to half of the energy you
use each day.
Understanding Your EnergyGuide Label:
All Energy Star appliances are required to have an EnergyGuide label. This label
displays the model number, features, size and capacity of the appliance. In
addition, the label estimates the average energy usage and operation costs of
the model per year.
Each label also displays a range of energy used per year by similar models so
that you can comparison shop and determine if this particular model meets your
needs.
Standard Features of Energy Star Appliances:
Refrigerators:
? Use up to 40% less electricity.
? Savings of up to $150 each year.
Dishwasher:
? Use 50% less water.
? Use over 40% less energy.
? Save $90 over the lifetime of your dishwasher.
Clothes Washer:
? Use 50% less water.
? Reduce drying time by extracting more water in the spin cycle.
? Less wear and tear on your clothing.
? Use up to 40% less electricity.
? Savings of up to $110 each year.
Dehumidifier:
? Use between 10 - 20% less electricity.
? Savings of approximately $30 each year.
Household Air Conditioner:
? Use 10% less energy.
? Save approximately $250 over the lifetime of your air conditioner.
Investing in Energy Star appliances will help you save on monthly utility costs
and reduce emissions in your home and the environment. It's an easy way to save
yourself some money plus do your part for the environment.

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Going green is the newest craze and everybody wants to be a part of it. Now you
can make your own windmill and harness the power of the wind to power your home.
How would you feel knowing that you are creating enough electricity to power
your home and keep you from paying the electric company. The best part about it
is that you can produce enough electricity that anything left over, you can sell
TO the power company.
Making your own windmill that can give you electricity isn't as hard as it
sounds. There are instructional kits available that will show you how you can do
this with parts you can find in your local hardware store. There are companies
that are selling windmill generator kits for $1000's but you can build your own
for a fraction of the price.
You will feel good about yourself knowing that you are helping the environment.
You will also be saving money by using less electricity from the power company.
But your life will continue as usual because you will be generating electricity
completely on your own.
Like I mentioned before, if you create more electricity then you actually need
you can sell that to the power company. People who have power generating
windmill's are making money for doing nothing. As long as the wind blows they
are making money and saving money. Nothing is easier then watching a windmill
spin around, power your house, and put money in your pocket.
So give it a try if you are trying to go green. It will be a good way to help
the environment and save money at the same time!

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>
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