In reply to simon, my 1695 is a very long term project. I bought it
as a rusty chassis, of dubious quality, the original had a major
flaw, the outside frames are really too weak, mine would distort. I
tried to relieve any stresses, it made no difference. I remade the
outside frames from a stainless type of 2.5mm I found lying about at
work.
This helped, but it still seemed too weak, so I made a full length
inside frame (out of 3mm x 25mm steel) now its a really stiff chassis.
With hind sight there is only 1/4" of frame above the cast horns, so
I reduced the gunmetal horn height,so I would recommend using 3mm
steel plate ones, (this would reduce overall work)
I also made stretchers and bolted these to the inside of the buffer
beams, ( easier alignment and stronger too)
The crank is simply Loctite glued together, the original had machined
different diameter crankpins. Silver soldering is so messy to clean
up. I will Loctite pin mine but that is really overkill.

Other projects now have more importance, so I may return when time
permits.

David.


--- In halfinchlivesteamforum@..., "Simon Thomas"
<spt001@f...> wrote:
> Looking through the archive photos for the group, I saw those for
LBSC's
> 1695 saddle tank. Has anyone any experience making this design ?
I like
> the look of the loco(described in English Mechanics), but would
like to hear
> of any errors/design flaws before comitting to metal.
> I understand a combination of Dyak wheels and Kingette inside
cylinders
> looks after the most significant castings. I'm not sure what else
is worth
> getting as a casting in this size of model.
> Any thoughts out there ?
>
>
> Simon.