My chassis had 3/32 frames of really soft steel. They would distort
in 2 planes and where the horns are is major weakness.
I thought about the running boards stiffening up the frames too, but
felt that this was not really their purpose. Reflecting, they would
do little to stop vertical distortion.
Go for laser cut frames of say 3mm as they are a complex shape and
forget the horns.

There is room for slip eccentrics, Stephenson gear should be just
possible. The thicker inner frames do not foul any inner workings as
the extra width is on the 'outside' of the frames.

Another reason for the full length inner frames, there is nothing to
support the boiler firebox. LBSC did'nt explain that one!

Follow boiler details for a cross between Rose and Southern Maid an
you will be on the right track.

I have not seen the blueprints, but I expect they will be the same
offering only full size. If anybody has some I would like to see them.

David



--- In halfinchlivesteamforum@..., "Simon Thomas"
<spt001@f...> wrote:
> I guess the frames will be much stiffened once the running boards
are in
> place. Looking at the drawing for the valve gear, it all looks
tightly
> packed in. Is there room for a pair of eccentrics or loose
eccentric and
> stop collar once the inner frames have been extended ?
> It takes some untangling the various (slip eccentric, full
Stephenson's &
> oscillating cylinder) valve gear set ups described in the
articles. I
> presume the 'blue print' drawings give no more detail than that
shown in the
> magazines though.
> I'm thinking of going down the laser cut route, so it would be good
to get a
> feel for the original vs modified frames before shelling out on
ordering
> them. Were your originals to the correct (3/32") thickness ?
> Regards,
>
> Simon.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: david_steam <no_reply@...>
> To: <halfinchlivesteamforum@...>
> Sent: Monday, February 28, 2005 6:18 PM
> Subject: [Half inch live steam forum] Re: GW Saddle tank 1695
>
>
> >
> >
> > In reply to simon, my 1695 is a very long term project. I bought
it
> > as a rusty chassis, of dubious quality, the original had a major
> > flaw, the outside frames are really too weak, mine would distort.
I
> > tried to relieve any stresses, it made no difference. I remade the
> > outside frames from a stainless type of 2.5mm I found lying about
at
> > work.
> > This helped, but it still seemed too weak, so I made a full length
> > inside frame (out of 3mm x 25mm steel) now its a really stiff
chassis.
> > With hind sight there is only 1/4" of frame above the cast horns,
so
> > I reduced the gunmetal horn height,so I would recommend using 3mm
> > steel plate ones, (this would reduce overall work)
> > I also made stretchers and bolted these to the inside of the
buffer
> > beams, ( easier alignment and stronger too)
> > The crank is simply Loctite glued together, the original had
machined
> > different diameter crankpins. Silver soldering is so messy to
clean
> > up. I will Loctite pin mine but that is really overkill.
> >
> > Other projects now have more importance, so I may return when time
> > permits.
> >
> > David.
> >
> >
> > --- In halfinchlivesteamforum@..., "Simon Thomas"
> > <spt001@f...> wrote:
> > > Looking through the archive photos for the group, I saw those
for
> > LBSC's
> > > 1695 saddle tank. Has anyone any experience making this
design ?
> > I like
> > > the look of the loco(described in English Mechanics), but would
> > like to hear
> > > of any errors/design flaws before comitting to metal.
> > > I understand a combination of Dyak wheels and Kingette inside
> > cylinders
> > > looks after the most significant castings. I'm not sure what
else
> > is worth
> > > getting as a casting in this size of model.
> > > Any thoughts out there ?
> > >
> > >
> > > Simon.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
> > halfinchlivesteamforum-unsubscribe@...
> >
> >
> > Yahoo! Groups Links
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >