Is it possible to have the axle ends 2mm rather than 1/8 so that the jig can be used for tenders/ bogies, etc.

Steve Hammond

----- Original Message -----

From: hhpja

To: masterchassis@...

Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 10:35 PM

Subject: [masterchassis] Re: Size of False axle ends

Hi Brian

In theory you are right. But 2 things:-

1) Stainless is very tough to cut and will quicly blunt your jewllers
saw. You could you an abrasive disk but the parts will be very small

2) Depending on how accurate the tube is it may be either a press or
loose fit. The former is great for accuacy but poor for changing back
to 1mm, the later may introduce a slop and hence inaccuracy.

Regards Phil

--- In masterchassis@yahoogroups.co.uk, "polybear2123" <polybear@...>
wrote:
>
> --- In masterchassis@yahoogroups.co.uk, "hhpja" <phil@> wrote:
>
> > About 90% of the 4mm jigs we have sold have been 1/8" axles with
1.5mm
> > ends, which is the size of the bush that fits over the 12BA screw
which
> > passes through the wheel to act as a crankpin. This is the
standard
> > size for Alan Gibson, Ultrascale and Mike Sharman. The old style
> > Romford, now Markits, where you solder a thick brass washer onto
the
> > crankpin is 1mm. The new Markits one is I believe 1.67mm (can
anyone
> > confirm?)
>
>
> Hi Phil/all,
>
> One suggestion for those using both sizes may be to use 1/8" axles
> with 1mm ends, and to sleeve the ends with tubing to bring the
> diameter upto 1.5mm as required. The following site sells hard
> Stainless Steel tubing with the following dimensions:
>
> O.D. 1.49mm
> I.D. 1.0mm
>
> http://finneyandsmith.co.uk/finneyandsmith/Brass.htm
>
> Does this sound a workable idea, or am I missing something basic?
>
> p.s. I'll try and contact Markits tomorrow to check the dimensions
of
> their crankpins and bushes and report back the findings.
>
> Best Regards,
> Brian Tulley
>