Hi Phil,

Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately, when I tried it there wasnt
sufficient clearance between the mock axles and the slider locking
screws to allow the frame to sit flush against the jig.

As I have the 4mm (EM) version my solution was to reverse the mock
axles and put the frame flush up against the back face of the jig
thereby preserving the wheelbases. This gives more room for the
soldering iron as there are no screws in the way. If I have to do
anything similar again I would put a false back between the jig and
frame to lend a bit more support. For each mock axle I'd drill unused
frame spacers from kits gone by to preserve the flexibility of the
masterchassis.

In case anyone is interested the chassis Im building is from the SE
Finecast Flatiron kit.

Regards (+thanks),

Frank

--- In masterchassis@..., "hhpja" <phil@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Frank
>
> Alan Gibson makes/made 2 types of 4mm hornblocks and I am guessing
you
> are talking about the etched variety. These are the only ones on
the
> market, I know about, without a flange. I have used some, and yes I
> found them difficult as well. Difficult and time consuming to make,
and
> to use on the Master Chassis. Your idea is a good one but you have
to
> make the plates and clean up the chassis after use. Could you clamp
a
> plate using those small pegs?, or possible push the chassis right
up to
> the face of the jig to solder one side, then turn the chassis
upside
> down (so you don't have to change the settings) and then solder the
> other side.
>
> Has anyone else any thoughts?
>
> Regards Phil
> --- In masterchassis@..., "lomas.frank"
<lomas.frank@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi, my Masterchassis is making its debut and I wondered if anyone
has
> > any experience of using Alan Gibson hornblocks? With there only
being
> > the fence and no hornguide as such has anyone any suggestions
apart
> > from tacking a false bearing plate to the outside of the chassis
> frames?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Frank
> >
>