I've just taken delivery of my Masterchassis and am verypleased with
my investment.  The one snag I've found is that the a couple of the
false axles are more or less an interference fit in the axle holes.  I
rang Phil and Jo and was advised to just ease the offending items with
a bit of wet-and-dry, which was my Plan A anyway.  Has anyone with
practical experience any warnings or comments or is it just a matter
of steady as you go?

Many thanks

Tony McSean

-----Original Message-----
From: masterchassis@... [mailto:masterchassis@...]On Behalf Of tmcsean
Sent: 07 May 2007 08:31
To: masterchassis@...
Subject: [masterchassis] Tightness on delivery

I've just taken delivery of my Masterchassis and am verypleased with
my investment. The one snag I've found is that the a couple of the
false axles are more or less an interference fit in the axle holes. I
rang Phil and Jo and was advised to just ease the offending items with
a bit of wet-and-dry, which was my Plan A anyway. Has anyone with
practical experience any warnings or comments or is it just a matter
of steady as you go?

Many thanks

Tony McSean

Hi Tony,

I too have recently received mine and have nothing but praise for it. Yes,
the Mock Axles are tight, but I'd rather that than loose. A little easing
with fine grade wet/dry would be OK, but check first that the Allen bolts
used to secure the axles are loose and that a little light oil has been
applied.

Incidentally, I have found that a spray with Remington shaver blade
cleaner/lubricant is good. Use this after each soldering session. If you do
get a build-up of gunge on the axles, spin them in  a chuck (I use my trusty
Black & Decker drill in a horizontal stand) and apply a track cleaning pad,
such as Garriflex.

I have already built a chassis on my Masterchassis and used it for test
running. What a boon! I will build a cradle for it, slightly based on that
in the group's Files section, but without the copper-clad PCB for current
pick-up. I prefer 'wander-leads', as thereby one may easily check for the
proper working of individual pickups. I wish I could have that facility on
then other side too. I will also have extensions either side with track
sections to carry bogie, pony and tender wheelsets. I will have to provide
dual-gauge track, as I have rolling roads for both 0-fine and 36.75mm
(5'3").

Another small but important point. Ensure that the setscrews holding the
roller bearings are tight - and stay tight. Mine were loose on arrival
(why?); a drop of Threadlock will keep them tight.

Regards

Dennis Mowatt



I've just taken delivery of my Masterchassis and am very pleased with
my investment.  The one snag I've found is that the a couple of the
false axles are more or less an interference fit in the axle holes.  I
rang Phil and Jo and was advised to just ease the offending items with
a bit of wet-and-dry, which was my Plan A anyway.  Has anyone with
practical experience any warnings or comments or is it just a matter
of steady as you go?

Hi all,

I'm looking to purchase a Master Chassis for 4mm.  Having read the
review in MRJ it seems there is an option for 1mm or 1.5mm ends to the
False Axles (presumably for the Con-Rods). Can anyone tell me what is
the choice to go for please?. I'm guessing at 1mm, simply because (for
example) Alan Gibson crank pins are 1mm diameter. Is it simply a case
that the 1.5mm option is for 7mm Locos?
Many thanks.

Best Regards,
Brian.

Please if anybody else would like to put in theie 10p worth then please
do so.

At Hobby Holidays, as a small company we try to do whatever we can to
help our customers. To that end we will make the spigot on the end of
the Mock (False) axles to any size possible.

About 90% of the 4mm jigs we have sold have been 1/8" axles with 1.5mm
ends, which is the size of the bush that fits over the 12BA screw which
passes through the wheel to act as a crankpin. This is the standard
size for Alan Gibson, Ultrascale and Mike Sharman. The old style
Romford, now Markits, where you solder a thick brass washer onto the
crankpin is 1mm. The new Markits one is I believe 1.67mm (can anyone
confirm?)

7mm is a little easier 3/16" with a 2.4mm end, as every crankpin I know
on the market is either 3/32" (2.38mm) or 2.40mm (Less than 1thou"
different.

I hope that Helps regards Phil

--- In masterchassis@..., "polybear2123" <polybear@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm looking to purchase a Master Chassis for 4mm.  Having read the
> review in MRJ it seems there is an option for 1mm or 1.5mm ends to
the
> False Axles (presumably for the Con-Rods). Can anyone tell me what is
> the choice to go for please?. I'm guessing at 1mm, simply because
(for
> example) Alan Gibson crank pins are 1mm diameter. Is it simply a case
> that the 1.5mm option is for 7mm Locos?
> Many thanks.
>
> Best Regards,
> Brian.
>

----- Original Message -----

From: hhpja

To: masterchassis@...

Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2007 9:33 PM

Subject: [SPAM] [masterchassis] Re: Size of False axle ends

Please if anybody else would like to put in theie 10p worth then please
do so.

At Hobby Holidays, as a small company we try to do whatever we can to
help our customers. To that end we will make the spigot on the end of
the Mock (False) axles to any size possible.

About 90% of the 4mm jigs we have sold have been 1/8" axles with 1.5mm
ends, which is the size of the bush that fits over the 12BA screw which
passes through the wheel to act as a crankpin. This is the standard
size for Alan Gibson, Ultrascale and Mike Sharman. The old style
Romford, now Markits, where you solder a thick brass washer onto the
crankpin is 1mm. The new Markits one is I believe 1.67mm (can anyone
confirm?)

7mm is a little easier 3/16" with a 2.4mm end, as every crankpin I know
on the market is either 3/32" (2.38mm) or 2.40mm (Less than 1thou"
different.

I hope that Helps regards Phil

--- In masterchassis@yahoogroups.co.uk, "polybear2123" <polybear@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I'm looking to purchase a Master Chassis for 4mm. Having read the
> review in MRJ it seems there is an option for 1mm or 1.5mm ends to
the
> False Axles (presumably for the Con-Rods). Can anyone tell me what is
> the choice to go for please?. I'm guessing at 1mm, simply because
(for
> example) Alan Gibson crank pins are 1mm diameter. Is it simply a case
> that the 1.5mm option is for 7mm Locos?
> Many thanks.
>
> Best Regards,
> Brian.
>

--- In masterchassis@..., "hhpja" <phil@...> wrote:

> About 90% of the 4mm jigs we have sold have been 1/8" axles with 1.5mm
> ends, which is the size of the bush that fits over the 12BA screw which
> passes through the wheel to act as a crankpin. This is the standard
> size for Alan Gibson, Ultrascale and Mike Sharman. The old style
> Romford, now Markits, where you solder a thick brass washer onto the
> crankpin is 1mm. The new Markits one is I believe 1.67mm (can anyone
> confirm?)


Hi Phil/all,

One suggestion for those using both sizes may be to use 1/8" axles
with 1mm ends, and to sleeve the ends with tubing to bring the
diameter upto 1.5mm as required. The following site sells hard
Stainless Steel tubing with the following dimensions:

O.D. 1.49mm
I.D. 1.0mm

http://finneyandsmith.co.uk/finneyandsmith/Brass.htm

Does this sound a workable idea, or am I missing something basic?

p.s. I'll try and contact Markits tomorrow to check the dimensions of
their crankpins and bushes and report back the findings.

Best Regards,
Brian Tulley

Hi Brian

In theory you are right. But 2 things:-

1) Stainless is very tough to cut and will quicly blunt your jewllers
saw. You could you an abrasive disk but the parts will be very small

2) Depending on how accurate the tube is it may be either a press or
loose fit. The former is great for accuacy but poor for changing back
to 1mm, the later may introduce a slop and hence inaccuracy.

Regards Phil

--- In masterchassis@..., "polybear2123" <polybear@...>
wrote:
>
> --- In masterchassis@..., "hhpja" <phil@> wrote:
>
> > About 90% of the 4mm jigs we have sold have been 1/8" axles with
1.5mm
> > ends, which is the size of the bush that fits over the 12BA screw
which
> > passes through the wheel to act as a crankpin. This is the
standard
> > size for Alan Gibson, Ultrascale and Mike Sharman. The old style
> > Romford, now Markits, where you solder a thick brass washer onto
the
> > crankpin is 1mm. The new Markits one is I believe 1.67mm (can
anyone
> > confirm?)
>
>
> Hi Phil/all,
>
> One suggestion for those using both sizes may be to use 1/8" axles
> with 1mm ends, and to sleeve the ends with tubing to bring the
> diameter upto 1.5mm as required. The following site sells hard
> Stainless Steel tubing with the following dimensions:
>
> O.D. 1.49mm
> I.D. 1.0mm
>
> http://finneyandsmith.co.uk/finneyandsmith/Brass.htm
>
> Does this sound a workable idea, or am I missing something basic?
>
> p.s. I'll try and contact Markits tomorrow to check the dimensions
of
> their crankpins and bushes and report back the findings.
>
> Best Regards,
> Brian Tulley
>

Is it possible to have the axle ends 2mm rather than 1/8 so that the jig can be used for tenders/ bogies, etc.

Steve Hammond

----- Original Message -----

From: hhpja

To: masterchassis@...

Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 10:35 PM

Subject: [masterchassis] Re: Size of False axle ends

Hi Brian

In theory you are right. But 2 things:-

1) Stainless is very tough to cut and will quicly blunt your jewllers
saw. You could you an abrasive disk but the parts will be very small

2) Depending on how accurate the tube is it may be either a press or
loose fit. The former is great for accuacy but poor for changing back
to 1mm, the later may introduce a slop and hence inaccuracy.

Regards Phil

--- In masterchassis@yahoogroups.co.uk, "polybear2123" <polybear@...>
wrote:
>
> --- In masterchassis@yahoogroups.co.uk, "hhpja" <phil@> wrote:
>
> > About 90% of the 4mm jigs we have sold have been 1/8" axles with
1.5mm
> > ends, which is the size of the bush that fits over the 12BA screw
which
> > passes through the wheel to act as a crankpin. This is the
standard
> > size for Alan Gibson, Ultrascale and Mike Sharman. The old style
> > Romford, now Markits, where you solder a thick brass washer onto
the
> > crankpin is 1mm. The new Markits one is I believe 1.67mm (can
anyone
> > confirm?)
>
>
> Hi Phil/all,
>
> One suggestion for those using both sizes may be to use 1/8" axles
> with 1mm ends, and to sleeve the ends with tubing to bring the
> diameter upto 1.5mm as required. The following site sells hard
> Stainless Steel tubing with the following dimensions:
>
> O.D. 1.49mm
> I.D. 1.0mm
>
> http://finneyandsmith.co.uk/finneyandsmith/Brass.htm
>
> Does this sound a workable idea, or am I missing something basic?
>
> p.s. I'll try and contact Markits tomorrow to check the dimensions
of
> their crankpins and bushes and report back the findings.
>
> Best Regards,
> Brian Tulley
>

--- In masterchassis@..., "hhpja" <phil@...> wrote:

> The old style
> Romford, now Markits, where you solder a thick brass washer onto the
> crankpin is 1mm. The new Markits one is I believe 1.67mm (can anyone
> confirm?)

Hi Phil/all,

I've just received an email from Mark Arscott on this issue, to the
following effect:

Markits "Superdeluxe Slotted Threaded Crankpins" (which now replace
their "Slotted Threaded Crankpins" with Plain [not threaded] Crankpin
Bush and 14 Ba nut) consist of a 1.0mm (14 Ba) Crankpin with a Slotted
Threaded Crankpin Bush to go with it; the latter having a 0.057"
(1.44mm) turned outside diameter.

Hope this is of interest.

Best Regards,
Brian Tulley.

Hi Steve

To date we have made axles in
2mm
3/32
3mm
1/8
5/32
3/16
1/4

If any one wants something different jusr ask

Regards Phil


--- In masterchassis@..., "stephenhammond"
<leescourtlodge@...> wrote:
>
>   Is it possible to have the axle ends 2mm rather than 1/8 so that
the jig can be used for tenders/ bogies, etc.
>   Steve Hammond
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     From: hhpja
>     To: masterchassis@...
>     Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2007 10:35 PM
>     Subject: [masterchassis] Re: Size of False axle ends
>
>
>     Hi Brian
>
>     In theory you are right. But 2 things:-
>
>     1) Stainless is very tough to cut and will quicly blunt your
jewllers
>     saw. You could you an abrasive disk but the parts will be very
small
>
>     2) Depending on how accurate the tube is it may be either a
press or
>     loose fit. The former is great for accuacy but poor for
changing back
>     to 1mm, the later may introduce a slop and hence inaccuracy.
>
>     Regards Phil
>
>     --- In masterchassis@..., "polybear2123"
<polybear@>
>     wrote:
>     >
>     > --- In masterchassis@..., "hhpja" <phil@> wrote:
>     >
>     > > About 90% of the 4mm jigs we have sold have been 1/8" axles
with
>     1.5mm
>     > > ends, which is the size of the bush that fits over the 12BA
screw
>     which
>     > > passes through the wheel to act as a crankpin. This is the
>     standard
>     > > size for Alan Gibson, Ultrascale and Mike Sharman. The old
style
>     > > Romford, now Markits, where you solder a thick brass washer
onto
>     the
>     > > crankpin is 1mm. The new Markits one is I believe 1.67mm
(can
>     anyone
>     > > confirm?)
>     >
>     >
>     > Hi Phil/all,
>     >
>     > One suggestion for those using both sizes may be to use 1/8"
axles
>     > with 1mm ends, and to sleeve the ends with tubing to bring the
>     > diameter upto 1.5mm as required. The following site sells hard
>     > Stainless Steel tubing with the following dimensions:
>     >
>     > O.D. 1.49mm
>     > I.D. 1.0mm
>     >
>     > http://finneyandsmith.co.uk/finneyandsmith/Brass.htm
>     >
>     > Does this sound a workable idea, or am I missing something
basic?
>     >
>     > p.s. I'll try and contact Markits tomorrow to check the
dimensions
>     of
>     > their crankpins and bushes and report back the findings.
>     >
>     > Best Regards,
>     > Brian Tulley
>     >
>

Hi Brian

The super, super, delux, GTI, ghia, blue chip, all singing all
dancing, crankpin.

I will make the ends 1.44 if you require but a suitable working
clearance (Next drill size up as stated in the instructions) would
probably be 1.5mm. Give me a ring if you want to discuss or I could
go into more detail here if anyone asks

Regards Phil
--- In masterchassis@..., "polybear2123" <polybear@...>
wrote:
>
> --- In masterchassis@..., "hhpja" <phil@> wrote:
>
> > The old style
> > Romford, now Markits, where you solder a thick brass washer onto
the
> > crankpin is 1mm. The new Markits one is I believe 1.67mm (can
anyone
> > confirm?)
>
> Hi Phil/all,
>
> I've just received an email from Mark Arscott on this issue, to the
> following effect:
>
> Markits "Superdeluxe Slotted Threaded Crankpins" (which now replace
> their "Slotted Threaded Crankpins" with Plain [not threaded]
Crankpin
> Bush and 14 Ba nut) consist of a 1.0mm (14 Ba) Crankpin with a
Slotted
> Threaded Crankpin Bush to go with it; the latter having a 0.057"
> (1.44mm) turned outside diameter.
>
> Hope this is of interest.
>
> Best Regards,
> Brian Tulley.
>

--- In masterchassis@..., "hhpja" <phil@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Brian
>
> The super, super, delux, GTI, ghia, blue chip, all singing all
> dancing, crankpin.
>
> I will make the ends 1.44 if you require but a suitable working
> clearance (Next drill size up as stated in the instructions) would
> probably be 1.5mm. Give me a ring if you want to discuss or I
could
> go into more detail here if anyone asks
>
> Regards Phil

Hi Phil,

I've specified 1/8" axles with 1.5mm ends on my order, to suit Alan
Gibson etc. - I'm quite happy to stick with this size.  The good
news is that following my previous posting it sounds as though this
size will now be fine for the latest generation of Markits Crankpins
also!

It sounds from Steve Hammond's posting that there could be an
opportunity for aftermarket axles with different size ends, to suit
tenders etc. also

Best Regards,
Brian Tulley

I purchased my Masterchassis last year but as yet haven't ued it in
anger. On Saturday at Watford I purchased the additions to set
wagon/coach wheels for 7mm scale. Having now set them up so I can
build some MR bogies for a Slaters MR Clayton Lavatory coach I am
building in S7.

I was looking at Phils instructions and he talks about moving the mock
axles out so that they protrude about 32mm in 7mm. If I do this only
the 1/8" ends are in the clamp and I cannot get them to clamp tight.

Please can somebody enlighten me as to what I am doing wrong?

Regards

Robin

Hi Robin

From your description I am guessing you are changing scales. The fact
you have 1/8* sections on your mock axles, means you have 4mm axles,
and you say you are making a 7mm coach.

All you need to do is have the 3/16" part of the axle protruding a
small amount, say 5mm, just enough to locate the "Wagon Master's". Use
the longer fixing screw to attach.

The 32mm is for when you are building a 7mm loco chassis using 7mm
axles, i.e 3/16" for the whole length.

I hope I have understood your problem if not please reply

Phil
--- In masterchassis@..., "robinelwyn" <Robin.Elwyn@...>
wrote:
>
> I purchased my Masterchassis last year but as yet haven't ued it in
> anger. On Saturday at Watford I purchased the additions to set
> wagon/coach wheels for 7mm scale. Having now set them up so I can
> build some MR bogies for a Slaters MR Clayton Lavatory coach I am
> building in S7.
>
> I was looking at Phils instructions and he talks about moving the mock
> axles out so that they protrude about 32mm in 7mm. If I do this only
> the 1/8" ends are in the clamp and I cannot get them to clamp tight.
>
> Please can somebody enlighten me as to what I am doing wrong?
>
> Regards
>
> Robin
>

Hi, my Masterchassis is making its debut and I wondered if anyone has
any experience of using Alan Gibson hornblocks? With there only being
the fence and no hornguide as such has anyone any suggestions apart
from tacking a false bearing plate to the outside of the chassis frames?

Thanks

Frank

Hi Frank

Alan Gibson makes/made 2 types of 4mm hornblocks and I am guessing you
are talking about the etched variety. These are the only ones on the
market, I know about, without a flange. I have used some, and yes I
found them difficult as well. Difficult and time consuming to make, and
to use on the Master Chassis. Your idea is a good one but you have to
make the plates and clean up the chassis after use. Could you clamp a
plate using those small pegs?, or possible push the chassis right up to
the face of the jig to solder one side, then turn the chassis upside
down (so you don't have to change the settings) and then solder the
other side.

Has anyone else any thoughts?

Regards Phil
--- In masterchassis@..., "lomas.frank" <lomas.frank@...>
wrote:
>
> Hi, my Masterchassis is making its debut and I wondered if anyone has
> any experience of using Alan Gibson hornblocks? With there only being
> the fence and no hornguide as such has anyone any suggestions apart
> from tacking a false bearing plate to the outside of the chassis
frames?
>
> Thanks
>
> Frank
>

Which are the best hornblocks?

Quick and easy to make
Easy to install
Accurate
Suitable for springing and compensation
Work well with the Master Chassis.

I have not used every type on the market yet, whats your thoughts?

Interested in all scales

Regards Phil

----- Original Message -----

From: hhpja

To: masterchassis@...

Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 9:23 AM

Subject: [masterchassis] Hornblocks

Which are the best hornblocks?

Quick and easy to make
Easy to install
Accurate
Suitable for springing and compensation
Work well with the Master Chassis.

I have not used every type on the market yet, whats your thoughts?

Interested in all scales

Regards Phil

Hi Phil,

In 7mm scale - and it is important that all communications should state the
scale in which the correspondent is working, otherwise I, for one, am
unlikely to contribute - I use Slater's plastic hornblocks, ref. 7960. They
come ready to use sprung, but may be used for beam suspension. They are easy
to fit - I simply use Araldite Rapid.

I find that they meet all your criteria as stated below.

When fitting, I cut out that portion of the chassis in which the hornblock
will sit for all but one axle, leaving that one 'solid' to act as a datum
point. When the remaining axles' hornblocks are fitted I cut out for, and
fit, this last axle's hornblocks. I believe that doing it thusly ensures
that the wheelsets will be in their correct relationship to the rest of the
chassis. And doing it is a lot easier than describing it!

Regards

Dennis
----------------------------------------------------


Which are the best hornblocks?

Quick and easy to make
Easy to install
Accurate
Suitable for springing and compensation
Work well with the Master Chassis.

I have not used every type on the market yet, whats your thoughts?

Interested in all scales

Regards Phil




--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


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Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.4/1277 - Release Date: 13/02/2008
20:00

I have had good success with the High Level fold-up hornblocks. If you also getthe (free) additional etches you can use these with piano wire for springing.

Any news on the masterchassis version?

Steve Hammond

----- Original Message -----

From: lomas.frank

To: masterchassis@...

Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 2:07 PM

Subject: [masterchassis] Alan Gibson Hornblocks

Hi, my Masterchassis is making its debut and I wondered if anyone has
any experience of using Alan Gibson hornblocks? With there only being
the fence and no hornguide as such has anyone any suggestions apart
from tacking a false bearing plate to the outside of the chassis frames?

Thanks

Frank

I must admit that I like the High level ones. Not seen these extras
yet. I found the first attempt not quite perfect, but then they were
very quick and easy to use.

I hope to have the Hobby Holidays Ball bearing ones as samples for
Glasgow and available for S4-north.
--- In masterchassis@..., "stephenhammond"
<leescourtlodge@...> wrote:
>
>   I have had good success with the High Level fold-up hornblocks.
If you also getthe (free) additional etches you can use these with
piano wire for springing.
>   Any news on the masterchassis version?
>   Steve Hammond
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     From: lomas.frank
>     To: masterchassis@...
>     Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 2:07 PM
>     Subject: [masterchassis] Alan Gibson Hornblocks
>
>
>     Hi, my Masterchassis is making its debut and I wondered if
anyone has
>     any experience of using Alan Gibson hornblocks? With there only
being
>     the fence and no hornguide as such has anyone any suggestions
apart
>     from tacking a false bearing plate to the outside of the
chassis frames?
>
>     Thanks
>
>     Frank
>

-----Original Message-----
From: masterchassis@... [mailto:masterchassis@...]On Behalf Of stephenhammond
Sent: 14 February 2008 11:09
To: masterchassis@...
Subject: Re: [masterchassis] Alan Gibson Hornblocks

I have had good success with the High Level fold-up hornblocks. If you also getthe (free) additional etches you can use these with piano wire for springing.

Any news on the masterchassis version?

Steve Hammond

----- Original Message -----

From: lomas.frank

To: masterchassis@yahoogroups.co.uk

Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 2:07 PM

Subject: [masterchassis] Alan Gibson Hornblocks

Hi, my Masterchassis is making its debut and I wondered if anyone has
any experience of using Alan Gibson hornblocks? With there only being
the fence and no hornguide as such has anyone any suggestions apart
from tacking a false bearing plate to the outside of the chassis frames?

Thanks

Frank

Hi Phil,

Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately, when I tried it there wasnt
sufficient clearance between the mock axles and the slider locking
screws to allow the frame to sit flush against the jig.

As I have the 4mm (EM) version my solution was to reverse the mock
axles and put the frame flush up against the back face of the jig
thereby preserving the wheelbases. This gives more room for the
soldering iron as there are no screws in the way. If I have to do
anything similar again I would put a false back between the jig and
frame to lend a bit more support. For each mock axle I'd drill unused
frame spacers from kits gone by to preserve the flexibility of the
masterchassis.

In case anyone is interested the chassis Im building is from the SE
Finecast Flatiron kit.

Regards (+thanks),

Frank

--- In masterchassis@..., "hhpja" <phil@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Frank
>
> Alan Gibson makes/made 2 types of 4mm hornblocks and I am guessing
you
> are talking about the etched variety. These are the only ones on
the
> market, I know about, without a flange. I have used some, and yes I
> found them difficult as well. Difficult and time consuming to make,
and
> to use on the Master Chassis. Your idea is a good one but you have
to
> make the plates and clean up the chassis after use. Could you clamp
a
> plate using those small pegs?, or possible push the chassis right
up to
> the face of the jig to solder one side, then turn the chassis
upside
> down (so you don't have to change the settings) and then solder the
> other side.
>
> Has anyone else any thoughts?
>
> Regards Phil
> --- In masterchassis@..., "lomas.frank"
<lomas.frank@>
> wrote:
> >
> > Hi, my Masterchassis is making its debut and I wondered if anyone
has
> > any experience of using Alan Gibson hornblocks? With there only
being
> > the fence and no hornguide as such has anyone any suggestions
apart
> > from tacking a false bearing plate to the outside of the chassis
> frames?
> >
> > Thanks
> >
> > Frank
> >
>

Hi Frank

The screws you talk about that are used to A) lock the sliders in
position while setting up the chassis, and B) fix the Rolling roads
in place. They can be replaced while in situation 'A' with M4 x 6 lg
socket grub screws. This will leave a flush face. The old ones will
of course need replacing when fitting the Rolling Roads. You will
also need a smaller Allen key. I have the screws at 20p each if you
are interested.

Regards Phil
--- In masterchassis@..., "lomas.frank"
<lomas.frank@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Phil,
>
> Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately, when I tried it there
wasnt
> sufficient clearance between the mock axles and the slider locking
> screws to allow the frame to sit flush against the jig.
>
> As I have the 4mm (EM) version my solution was to reverse the mock
> axles and put the frame flush up against the back face of the jig
> thereby preserving the wheelbases. This gives more room for the
> soldering iron as there are no screws in the way. If I have to do
> anything similar again I would put a false back between the jig and
> frame to lend a bit more support. For each mock axle I'd drill
unused
> frame spacers from kits gone by to preserve the flexibility of the
> masterchassis.
>
> In case anyone is interested the chassis Im building is from the SE
> Finecast Flatiron kit.
>
> Regards (+thanks),
>
> Frank
>
> --- In masterchassis@..., "hhpja" <phil@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Frank
> >
> > Alan Gibson makes/made 2 types of 4mm hornblocks and I am
guessing
> you
> > are talking about the etched variety. These are the only ones on
> the
> > market, I know about, without a flange. I have used some, and yes
I
> > found them difficult as well. Difficult and time consuming to
make,
> and
> > to use on the Master Chassis. Your idea is a good one but you
have
> to
> > make the plates and clean up the chassis after use. Could you
clamp
> a
> > plate using those small pegs?, or possible push the chassis right
> up to
> > the face of the jig to solder one side, then turn the chassis
> upside
> > down (so you don't have to change the settings) and then solder
the
> > other side.
> >
> > Has anyone else any thoughts?
> >
> > Regards Phil
> > --- In masterchassis@..., "lomas.frank"
> <lomas.frank@>
> > wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi, my Masterchassis is making its debut and I wondered if
anyone
> has
> > > any experience of using Alan Gibson hornblocks? With there only
> being
> > > the fence and no hornguide as such has anyone any suggestions
> apart
> > > from tacking a false bearing plate to the outside of the
chassis
> > frames?
> > >
> > > Thanks
> > >
> > > Frank
> > >
> >
>

Hi Phil.
Thanks for inventing this jig.
I,v just built my first chassis (gwr 28xx ) runs as sweet as a nut.
Regards.      Alan.

Hello there

I am going to be getting one of these at scaleforum (i have managed to
get a friend to pay for half in exchange for me building a chassis for
him!)

I do have a question though. i am going to want to use it for both OO
and O gauge. and also when building 4mm loco's i like to use the
cheaper crankpins for the front and rear axle and use the posh ones for
the centre axle when i am doing 3 axle loco's (there is a bit more to
area to work with when doing the valvegear.) so i am going to need at
lease one dummy axle that will have the 1.5mm stub.

My problem is what exactly do i ask for? can i have OO and O parts to
fit the same rig or is it just going to be cheaper to buy 2 rigs?

Peter

Hi Peter

Firstly lets cover your crankpins. As standard ,in 4mm, we make mock
axles with both 1.00mm spigots and 1.50mm, and if you buy a jig you
will get either 5 or 3 mock axles, (depending on the size of jig you
buy) of any size, or combination of size, you want. or you can buy
extra mock axles in any size you want.

If you buy a 4mm jig you can do 7mm on it with an extra set of 7mm
axles, and if required you can also buy the 7mm Rolling Road units.

Please e-mail me direct for prices as if I put them in here someone
will assume those prices still stand in 10 years from now.

phil@...

Regards Phil

--- In masterchassis@..., "pedromorgan"
<pedromorgan@...> wrote:
>
> Hello there
>
> I am going to be getting one of these at scaleforum (i have managed
to
> get a friend to pay for half in exchange for me building a chassis
for
> him!)
>
> I do have a question though. i am going to want to use it for both
OO
> and O gauge. and also when building 4mm loco's i like to use the
> cheaper crankpins for the front and rear axle and use the posh ones
for
> the centre axle when i am doing 3 axle loco's (there is a bit more
to
> area to work with when doing the valvegear.) so i am going to need
at
> lease one dummy axle that will have the 1.5mm stub.
>
> My problem is what exactly do i ask for? can i have OO and O parts
to
> fit the same rig or is it just going to be cheaper to buy 2 rigs?
>
> Peter
>

hello there

I was wondering what the minimum wheelbase was?

How close can the axles get?
The reason i ask is that i also have a darjeeling B class sitting in a
box somewhere!

Peter

P.S. thankyou for the quote you sent me. i havent ignored it. but i
must get the wedding out the way first! my target for the masterchassis
jig is still scaleforum.