Hi Phil.
Thanks for inventing this jig.
I,v just built my first chassis (gwr 28xx ) runs as sweet as a nut.
Regards.      Alan.

Hello there

I am going to be getting one of these at scaleforum (i have managed to
get a friend to pay for half in exchange for me building a chassis for
him!)

I do have a question though. i am going to want to use it for both OO
and O gauge. and also when building 4mm loco's i like to use the
cheaper crankpins for the front and rear axle and use the posh ones for
the centre axle when i am doing 3 axle loco's (there is a bit more to
area to work with when doing the valvegear.) so i am going to need at
lease one dummy axle that will have the 1.5mm stub.

My problem is what exactly do i ask for? can i have OO and O parts to
fit the same rig or is it just going to be cheaper to buy 2 rigs?

Peter

Hi Peter

Firstly lets cover your crankpins. As standard ,in 4mm, we make mock
axles with both 1.00mm spigots and 1.50mm, and if you buy a jig you
will get either 5 or 3 mock axles, (depending on the size of jig you
buy) of any size, or combination of size, you want. or you can buy
extra mock axles in any size you want.

If you buy a 4mm jig you can do 7mm on it with an extra set of 7mm
axles, and if required you can also buy the 7mm Rolling Road units.

Please e-mail me direct for prices as if I put them in here someone
will assume those prices still stand in 10 years from now.

phil@...

Regards Phil

--- In masterchassis@..., "pedromorgan"
<pedromorgan@...> wrote:
>
> Hello there
>
> I am going to be getting one of these at scaleforum (i have managed
to
> get a friend to pay for half in exchange for me building a chassis
for
> him!)
>
> I do have a question though. i am going to want to use it for both
OO
> and O gauge. and also when building 4mm loco's i like to use the
> cheaper crankpins for the front and rear axle and use the posh ones
for
> the centre axle when i am doing 3 axle loco's (there is a bit more
to
> area to work with when doing the valvegear.) so i am going to need
at
> lease one dummy axle that will have the 1.5mm stub.
>
> My problem is what exactly do i ask for? can i have OO and O parts
to
> fit the same rig or is it just going to be cheaper to buy 2 rigs?
>
> Peter
>

hello there

I was wondering what the minimum wheelbase was?

How close can the axles get?
The reason i ask is that i also have a darjeeling B class sitting in a
box somewhere!

Peter

P.S. thankyou for the quote you sent me. i havent ignored it. but i
must get the wedding out the way first! my target for the masterchassis
jig is still scaleforum.

Hi Peter

The Standard 4mm Master Chassis will get down to slightly less than
16mm (4Ft). During the origional design work I looked through all the
loco drawings I could find for the smallest and the biggest within
certain limmits.
The LMS 2F Dock tank comes in at 4ft 9inchs
The LNER Director stretches the boundry at 10Ft

I have plans for 2mm jig but due to pressure of other work inc
designing a wagon kit for 7mm at first its on the back burner. I
spent the day at NRM doing reserach yesterday.

Regards Phil

--- In masterchassis@..., "pedromorgan"
<pedromorgan@...> wrote:
>
> hello there
>
> I was wondering what the minimum wheelbase was?
>
> How close can the axles get?
> The reason i ask is that i also have a darjeeling B class sitting
in a
> box somewhere!
>
> Peter
>
> P.S. thankyou for the quote you sent me. i havent ignored it. but i
> must get the wedding out the way first! my target for the
masterchassis
> jig is still scaleforum.
>

I've just built my first cjassis using the jig in 7mm it ran sweetly
the first time I put the rods on which is a first for me, I also used
it to assemble the front bogie of the claughton thatI'm building.  A
lovely bit of kit to work with

Hi everyone,
I've just watched a chassis I've rebuilt sail down my sidings
completely free from tight-spots. I wish I'd had the jig when I built
the loco originally.

For the record, the loco is a 7mm SDJR Bagnall 0-6-0T [OK - what
modellers call a "Jinty"] from a JM kit. I'd worn the nickle-silver
laminated coupling rods bearings`oval, so have replaced with milled
steel ones. Naturally, that meant resetting the axles to suit the rods.
The JM hornblocks had also worn, so I replaced with Fourtrack cast ones
on the first 2 axles, which have equalising beams acting on the
bearings.

I'd recommend the jig to anyone. Money well spent.
Terry

-----Original Message-----
From: masterchassis@... [mailto:masterchassis@...]On Behalf Of Terry Dumbrell
Sent: 31 August 2008 10:30
To: masterchassis@...
Subject: [masterchassis] Chassis rebuild

Hi everyone,
I've just watched a chassis I've rebuilt sail down my sidings
completely free from tight-spots. I wish I'd had the jig when I built
the loco originally.

For the record, the loco is a 7mm SDJR Bagnall 0-6-0T [OK - what
modellers call a "Jinty"] from a JM kit. I'd worn the nickle-silver
laminated coupling rods bearings`oval, so have replaced with milled
steel ones. Naturally, that meant resetting the axles to suit the rods.
The JM hornblocks had also worn, so I replaced with Fourtrack cast ones
on the first 2 axles, which have equalising beams acting on the
bearings.

I'd recommend the jig to anyone. Money well spent.
Terry

I purchased my new jig over the weekend and I was playing with it
untill the wee hours of this morning!

I got he jig on saturday and rushed home to try it out. The only
model for which I had a "complete" kit for was an old K's german cab
forward! As I was unpacking it the wheels fell apart. The tires were
falling off and the plastic was so brittle the spokes were breaking
by the dozen!

On sunday I bought a new set of wheels for the cab forward so I can
make some progreaa on that. I also had a LNER W1 hush hush which I
made about 4 years ago. It never ran properly and i thought I would
take a look now I have the benifit of the master chassis jig. It had
a tendancy to hunt from side to side as it was going along the track
and generally looked very drunk! (much to the amusement of the
members of the MRC! I took the wheels off and dropped the axles out.
alligned the jig to the con rods and tried to put the chassis onto
the jig. 5 of the bearings were fine but the 5th was out by over a
mm. I dropped that bearing out and enlarged the hole in the chassis
with a grinding bit in the dremel, put the chassis on the jig with
the 5 bearings and then slid the 6th bearing along the shaft and
soldered it in place. In theory I now had 6 axles alligned and spaced
correctly with the conrods. I removed the middle axle from the jig
and put the centre axle and wheels back on the chassis and gave it an
hours running in on the jig to bed in the branchlines gearbox. After
that I popped on the other 4 wheels and the con rods and gave it a go
on the rolling road.

That was the first time in my life I have ever had a chassis running
properly. Then came the moment of truth. I popped it on my little
test track and it worked!! I have built about a dozen loco's but they
all ran like complete pigs. I just took a few minutes to sit and
watch it. For the first time I was proud of one of my loco creations.

Peter

I want to replace the axleguards on some 4-wheel coaches with spring
units - their present ones are arranged for compensation.

It occurs to me that if I used mock axles with 2 mm ends these would fit
the bearing holes in the W-iron units and I could use them in the Master
Chassis to get the new W-iron units aligned correctly.

I do not know if this has been discussed before, or indeed if it would
be a viable option.

Has anyone tried this, please? Would it be a viable option?

John

- jlewis@...  -
  18/11/2008

Hi John

This has never been discussed before, and I also would be grateful
for further input.

What you say sounds perfectly feasable, but I have to make an
assumption here that the hole in the bearing, in the W-Iron actually
goes all the way through, so that you can set up the bearings on both
sides at once. If that is the case then it seems a perfect solution.
Hence the axleguards are dummy, and glued on after

What make of spring suspension units are you using?

Regards Phil


--- In masterchassis@..., John Lewis <jlewis@...> wrote:
>
> I want to replace the axleguards on some 4-wheel coaches with
spring
> units - their present ones are arranged for compensation.
>
> It occurs to me that if I used mock axles with 2 mm ends these
would fit
> the bearing holes in the W-iron units and I could use them in the
Master
> Chassis to get the new W-iron units aligned correctly.
>
> I do not know if this has been discussed before, or indeed if it
would
> be a viable option.
>
> Has anyone tried this, please? Would it be a viable option?
>
> John
>
> - jlewis@...  -
>  18/11/2008
>

hhpja on Tue, 18 Nov 2008 22:40:42 -0000 wrote:

> This has never been discussed before, and I also would be grateful for
further input.

> What you say sounds perfectly feasable, but I have to make an
assumption here that the hole in the bearing, in the W-Iron actually
goes all the way through, so that you can set up the bearings on both
sides at once. If that is the case then it seems a perfect solution.
Hence the axleguards are dummy, and glued on after

> What make of spring suspension units are you using?


Hi Phil

I am using Bill Bedford's etched brass units. The bearings go in a
carrier each side of the W iron unit and the carrier is sprung by means
of a wire. The hole in the carriers are 2 mm diameter which seems to be
a standard outside diameter for bearings.

At the moment I have an old Mallard GWR CCT ("Python") etched brass kit
which has a wheel base of 72 mm (18ft) and although Bill Bedford does a
wheelbase setting jig, the longest wheelbase it caters for is, needless
to say, 17ft 6in. This consists of a fold up etch which when folded has
two parallel arms with holes in them, and a couple of lengths of 2 mm
rod, so you thread the rods through the bearing holes and the
appropriate holes in the jig, and this will apparently hold the W iron
units the correct distance apart lengthwise so you can solder or glue
them to the vehicle floor. What I was looking for was a way of dealing
with longer wheelbase coaches/wagons.

Using this system, as you surmised, the axleboxes are cosmetic and glued
on afterwards. You have to enlarge the holes in the axleboxes a little
to allow for the sprung movement..

I hope this is reasonably clear!

With best wishes
John

- jlewis@...  -
  18/11/2008

Hi Phil, I purchased a 4mm jig and a couple of wagonmasters at the back end of
March, having been suitably impressed by the example shown at Glasgow. I've been
itching to use it since although work and various other modelling commitments
have held things up until now. Tonight I made a start on my first project - a
Eastfield models J37 chassis in OO. All I've done tonight is prepare the rods
for soldering in the morning, but I'm impressed with the adjustable axle
spacing. Years ago, I attempted to build a couple of kit chassis, but they
generally ran like 3-legged dogs. The jig looks like changing all that for good.
I'm impressed too by the positive feedback on these pages. Even for a simple act
like fabricating the rods, the jig looks like providing the two extra hands you
generally need on jobs like that.
Thanks again, the signs are very encouraging!

Dave Smith.

Hi Dave thanks for the kind comments

Let us all know how you get on, with pictures if possible.


Regards Phil
--- In masterchassis@..., "Dave Smith" <brindlesmith@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Phil, I purchased a 4mm jig and a couple of wagonmasters at the back end of
March, having been suitably impressed by the example shown at Glasgow. I've been
itching to use it since although work and various other modelling commitments
have held things up until now. Tonight I made a start on my first project - a
Eastfield models J37 chassis in OO. All I've done tonight is prepare the rods
for soldering in the morning, but I'm impressed with the adjustable axle
spacing. Years ago, I attempted to build a couple of kit chassis, but they
generally ran like 3-legged dogs. The jig looks like changing all that for good.
I'm impressed too by the positive feedback on these pages. Even for a simple act
like fabricating the rods, the jig looks like providing the two extra hands you
generally need on jobs like that.
> Thanks again, the signs are very encouraging!
>
> Dave Smith.
>

Thanks Phil, I'll do that! On Sunday night I fitted the axle bearings (rigid for
00) and yesterday morning, I assembled the frames themselves. For the first time
in my experience, it was a thoroughly enjoyable job and everything appears
square and true. Later today I shall fit the wheels and test the rods for free
running. I'm on a real learning curve here as the last of my early experiments
was 10-15 years ago, so I've treated this as 'year zero'. I'm taking small,
careful steps all along the way, which means I'm taking a good deal more time
over each stage than all you experienced boys probably do! Having the correct
equipment such as temperature controlled soldering kit and an etched part folder
makes a huge difference too, but the jig is the clincher!

Cheers,

Dave.



--- In masterchassis@..., "hhpja" <phil@...> wrote:
>
> Hi Dave thanks for the kind comments
>
> Let us all know how you get on, with pictures if possible.
>
>
> Regards Phil

Sounds all good Dave.  Best wishes for a successful outcome in the very near
future.

I am also a "returnee" and got hold of my masterchassis at Bracknell a couple of
weeks ago.  Looking forward to using it.

I am very interested in the etched part folder you mention.  Could you provide
details please?

Many thanks

Steve

--- In masterchassis@..., "Dave Smith" <brindlesmith@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks Phil, I'll do that! On Sunday night I fitted the axle bearings (rigid
for 00) and yesterday morning, I assembled the frames themselves. For the first
time in my experience, it was a thoroughly enjoyable job and everything appears
square and true. Later today I shall fit the wheels and test the rods for free
running. I'm on a real learning curve here as the last of my early experiments
was 10-15 years ago, so I've treated this as 'year zero'. I'm taking small,
careful steps all along the way, which means I'm taking a good deal more time
over each stage than all you experienced boys probably do! Having the correct
equipment such as temperature controlled soldering kit and an etched part folder
makes a huge difference too, but the jig is the clincher!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dave.
>
>
>
> --- In masterchassis@..., "hhpja" <phil@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Dave thanks for the kind comments
> >
> > Let us all know how you get on, with pictures if possible.
> >
> >
> > Regards Phil
>

Good luck Dave

I'm in a simular position to you having come back to the hobby after 18
years away.  I brought a Masterchassis at ExpoEM and am looking forward
to building a chassis that runs smoothly!

I would like to know more about your etched part folder please?  Could
you let me have some details?

Thanks

Steve


--- In masterchassis@..., "Dave Smith" <brindlesmith@...>
wrote:
>
> Thanks Phil, I'll do that! On Sunday night I fitted the axle bearings
(rigid for 00) and yesterday morning, I assembled the frames themselves.
For the first time in my experience, it was a thoroughly enjoyable job
and everything appears square and true. Later today I shall fit the
wheels and test the rods for free running. I'm on a real learning curve
here as the last of my early experiments was 10-15 years ago, so I've
treated this as 'year zero'. I'm taking small, careful steps all along
the way, which means I'm taking a good deal more time over each stage
than all you experienced boys probably do! Having the correct equipment
such as temperature controlled soldering kit and an etched part folder
makes a huge difference too, but the jig is the clincher!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dave.
>
>
>
> --- In masterchassis@..., "hhpja" phil@ wrote:
> >
> > Hi Dave thanks for the kind comments
> >
> > Let us all know how you get on, with pictures if possible.
> >
> >
> > Regards Phil
>

Many thanks for the infomation Tony.  I'll have a look at it on the website you
gave.
Steve


--- In masterchassis@..., Tony McSean <hollarmodels@...> wrote:
>
>
> I don't know if this is the exact thiing that Dave was talking about but I've
had the larger version of this:
>
> http://finneyandsmith.co.uk/finneyandsmith/hold_and_fold.htm
>
> for a while.  It's expensive for what it is, but it is great timesaver and
quality-guarantee and I would be sorry to lose it.  Correction: I am sorry not
to have it because I am working away from home and this is one of the things I
didn't bring with me and wish I had.
>
> Tony McSean
>
>
>
> To: masterchassis@...
> From: steve_carter@...
> Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 17:39:01 +0000
> Subject: [masterchassis] Re: First steps.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Good luck Dave
>
>
>
> I'm in a simular position to you having come back to the hobby after 18
>
> years away.  I brought a Masterchassis at ExpoEM and am looking forward
>
> to building a chassis that runs smoothly!
>
>
>
> I would like to know more about your etched part folder please?  Could
>
> you let me have some details?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Steve
>
>
>
> --- In masterchassis@..., "Dave Smith" <brindlesmith@>
>
> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Thanks Phil, I'll do that! On Sunday night I fitted the axle bearings
>
> (rigid for 00) and yesterday morning, I assembled the frames themselves.
>
> For the first time in my experience, it was a thoroughly enjoyable job
>
> and everything appears square and true. Later today I shall fit the
>
> wheels and test the rods for free running. I'm on a real learning curve
>
> here as the last of my early experiments was 10-15 years ago, so I've
>
> treated this as 'year zero'. I'm taking small, careful steps all along
>
> the way, which means I'm taking a good deal more time over each stage
>
> than all you experienced boys probably do! Having the correct equipment
>
> such as temperature controlled soldering kit and an etched part folder
>
> makes a huge difference too, but the jig is the clincher!
>
> >
>
> > Cheers,
>
> >
>
> > Dave.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > --- In masterchassis@..., "hhpja" phil@ wrote:
>
> > >
>
> > > Hi Dave thanks for the kind comments
>
> > >
>
> > > Let us all know how you get on, with pictures if possible.
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > > Regards Phil
>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> View your Twitter and Flickr updates from one place – Learn more!
> http://clk.atdmt.com/UKM/go/137984870/direct/01/
>

-----Original Message-----
From: masterchassis@... [mailto:masterchassis@...]On Behalf Of brindlesmith@...
Sent: 28 May 2009 11:18
To: masterchassis@...
Subject: Re: [masterchassis] Re: First steps.

I'm off to work now Steve, but I'll look for the supplier of my folder, it was an American outfit called Mission models, but I'll give you the full gen later.

It's a hard plastic superstructure, but so far it's been up to any task I've given it.

Cheers,

Dave.


-----Original Message-----
From: waterloosl <steve_carter@blueyonder.co.uk>
To: masterchassis@yahoogroups.co.uk
Sent: Wed, 27 May 2009 18:39
Subject: [masterchassis] Re: First steps.

Good luck Dave

I'm in a simular position to you having come back to the hobby after 18
years away. I brought a Masterchassis at ExpoEM and am looking forward
to building a chassis that runs smoothly!

I would like to know more about your etched part folder please? Could
you let me have some details?

Thanks

Steve

--- In masterchassis@yahoogroups.co.uk, "Dave Smith" <brindlesmith@...>
wrote:
>
> Thanks Phil, I'll do that! On Sunday night I fitted the=2 0axle bearings
(rigid for 00) and yesterday morning, I assembled the frames themselves.
For the first time in my experience, it was a thoroughly enjoyable job
and everything appears square and true. Later today I shall fit the
wheels and test the rods for free running. I'm on a real learning curve
here as the last of my early experiments was 10-15 years ago, so I've
treated this as 'year zero'. I'm taking small, careful steps all along
the way, which means I'm taking a good deal more time over each stage
than all you experienced boys probably do! Having the correct equipment
such as temperature controlled soldering kit and an etched part folder
makes a huge difference too, but the jig is the clincher!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dave.
>
>
>
> --- In masterchassis@yahoogroups.co.uk, "hhpja" phil@ wrote:
> >
> > Hi Dave thanks for the kind comments
> >
> > Let us all know how you get on, with pictures if possible.
> >
> >
> > Regards Phil
>

---

Click here to get the very best of AOL, including news, sport, gossip, lifestyles updates and email.

Thanks Dave

I've found Mission models website and it looks a neat bit of kit.

I have also found a supplier in the UK, Relish Models in Selby, North Yorkshire,
but the folder is currently out of stock.  I've emailed them for an update as to
when it is likely to be available in the UK again.

No more info yet.

Steve

--- In masterchassis@..., brindlesmith@... wrote:
>
> I'm off to work now Steve, but I'll look for the supplier of my folder, it was
an American outfit called Mission models, but I'll give you the full gen later.
> It's a hard plastic superstructure, but so far it's been up to any task I've
given it.
>
> Cheers,
>
>
>
>
> Dave.
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: waterloosl <steve_carter@...>
> To: masterchassis@...
> Sent: Wed, 27 May 2009 18:39
> Subject: [masterchassis] Re: First steps.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Good luck Dave
>
>
>
> I'm in a simular position to you having come back to the hobby after 18
>
> years away.  I brought a Masterchassis at ExpoEM and am looking forward
>
> to building a chassis that runs smoothly!
>
>
>
> I would like to know more about your etched part folder please?  Could
>
> you let me have some details?
>
>
>
> Thanks
>
>
>
> Steve
>
>
>
> --- In masterchassis@..., "Dave Smith" <brindlesmith@>
>
> wrote:
>
> >
>
> > Thanks Phil, I'll do that! On Sunday night I fitted the axle bearings
>
> (rigid for 00) and yesterday morning, I assembled the frames themselves.
>
> For the first time in my experience, it was a thoroughly enjoyable job
>
> and everything appears square and true. Later today I shall fit the
>
> wheels and test the rods for free running. I'm on a real learning curve
>
> here as the last of my early experiments was 10-15 years ago, so I've
>
> treated this as 'y
> ear zero'. I'm taking small, careful steps all along
>
> the way, which means I'm taking a good deal more time over each stage
>
> than all you experienced boys probably do! Having the correct equipment
>
> such as temperature controlled soldering kit and an etched part folder
>
> makes a huge difference too, but the jig is the clincher!
>
> >
>
> > Cheers,
>
> >
>
> > Dave.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > --- In masterchassis@..., "hhpja" phil@ wrote:
>
> > >
>
> > > Hi Dave thanks for the kind comments
>
> > >
>
> > > Let us all know how you get on, with pictures if possible.
>
> > >
>
> > >
>
> > > Regards Phil
>
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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>
>
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>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> AOL Email goes Mobile! You can now read your AOL Emails whilst on the move.
Sign up for a free AOL Email account with unlimited storage today.
>

Hi Dave
Without seeing the chassis to confirm things my guess is 1 of 3 things regarding
your wheels that is:-
1 The fixing points in the chassis sides for the spacers were out
2 the holes in the chassis for the wheel bearings were out, or you have made
them out by opening them up.
3 the heat put in during soldering of the spacers has caused some stress build
up.

As you say it will look a little weird but may run OK the only time it may cause
you a problem is at points going in a certain direction, where the flange will
slightly closer to one side than the other.

The solution if you want to bother is to take the wheels out, put it back on the
jig and un-solder the spacers on one side and then re-solder, checking they are
paralell to the axles as you go.

I hope that helps

Regards
Phil
--- In masterchassis@..., brindlesmith@... wrote:
>
> I got mine from the States in about a week which wasn't so bad.
> Now, back to my project and a couple of things have caught my attention. While
the chassis is square and free-running - very nicely so- I notice that my
wheelsets all seem to be at a very slight tangent to the frames. It doesn't seem
to cause any problems as the axles and rods still all seem to be aligned with
each other and run smoothly, it just looks slightly odd when viewed from above,
which I suppose won't be a serious issue when the body's on.
>
>
>
>
> Secondly, what methods do you other fellows use when attaching detail parts to
the frame?  I'm very aware of the risk of dislodging parts that you have
previously soldered on and it's happened once or twice already, to my
embarrasment!
>
>
>
>
> Thanks again!
>
>
>
>
> Dave. 
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: waterloosl <steve_carter@...>
> To: masterchassis@...
> Sent: Fri, 29 May 2009 22:43
> Subject: [masterchassis] Re: First steps.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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> Thanks Dave
>
>
>
> I've found Mission models website and it looks a neat bit of kit.
>
>
>
> I have also found a supplier in the UK, Relish Models in Selby, North
Yorkshire, but the folder is currently out of stock.  I've emailed them for an
update as to when it is likely to be available in the UK again.
>
>
>
> No more info yet.
>
>
>
> Steve
>
>
>
>
> --- In masterchassis@..., brindlesmith@ wrote:
>
> >
>
> > I'm off to work now Steve, but I'll look for the supplier of my folder, it
was an American outfit called Mission models, but I'll give you the full gen
later.
>
> > It's a hard plastic superstructure, but so far it's been up to any task I've
given it.
>
> >
>
> > Cheers,
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Dave.
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > -----Original Message-----
>
> > From: waterloosl <steve_carter@>
>
> > To: masterchassis@...
>
> > Sent: Wed, 27 May 2009 18:39
>
> > Subject: [masterchassis] Re: First steps.
>
> >
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> >
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> >
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> > Good luck Dave
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > I'm in a simular position to you having come back to the hobby after 18
>
> >
>
> > years away.  I brought a Masterchassis at ExpoEM and am looking forward
>
> >
>
> > to building a chassis that runs smoothly!
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > I would like to know more about your etched part folder please?  Could
>
> >
>
> > you let me have some details?
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Thanks
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > Steve
>
> >
>
> >
>
> >
>
> > --- In masterchassis@..., "Dave Smith" <brindlesmith@>
>
> >
>
> > wrote:
> =0
> A>
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Thanks Phil, I'll do that! On Sunday night I fitted the axle bearings
>
> >
>
> > (rigid for 00) and yesterday morning, I assembled the frames themselves.
>
> >
>
> > For the first time in my experience, it was a thoroughly enjoyable job
>
> >
>
> > and everything appears square and true. Later today I shall fit the
>
> >
>
> > wheels and test the rods for free running. I'm on a real learning curve
>
> >
>
> > here as the last of my early experiments was 10-15 years ago, so I've
>
> >
>
> > treated this as 'y
>
> > ear zero'. I'm taking small, careful steps all along
>
> >
>
> > the way, which means I'm taking a good deal more time over each stage
>
> >
>
> > than all you experienced boys probably do! Having the correct equipment
>
> >
>
> > such as temperature controlled soldering kit and an etched part folder
>
> >
>
> > makes a huge difference too, but the jig is the clincher!
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Cheers,
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > Dave.
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > >
>
> >
>
> > > --- In masterchassis@..., "hhpja" phil@ wrote:
>
> >
>
> > > >
>
> >
>
> > > > Hi Dave thanks for the kind comments
>
> >
>
> > > >
>
> >
>
> > > > Let us all know how you get on, with pictures if possible.
>
> >
>
> > > >
>
> >
>
> > > >
>
> >
>
> > > > Regards Phil
>
> >
>
> > >
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> >
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> > 0A
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> >
>
> >
>
> > __________________________________________________________
>
> > AOL Email goes Mobile! You can now read your AOL Emails whilst on the move.
Sign up for a free AOL Email account with unlimited storage today.
>
> >
>
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> ________________________________________________________________________
> AOL Email goes Mobile! You can now read your AOL Emails whilst on the move.
Sign up for a free AOL Email account with unlimited storage today.
>

Hi Dave,

exactly what I have seen as well. The problem is that, while all the mechanism
of the tool is precision-engineered to keep the axles parallel to each other,
the master-chassis provides no means to check  and hold the frames orthogonal to
the axles. This may effectively stretch the wheelbase or let you solder up both
half frames in a way the axles are parallel but non-orthogonal to the frames. In
fact my masterchassis' baseplate itself is to a slight angle to the axles, which
deceived my eyes many times. Since with non-orthogonal axles the wheelbase is
always distorted, the rods become too short and running will be compromised. The
chassis needs to be redone, especially when its compensated.

I kind of helped myself out by creating a jig consisting of a length of 1/8" ID
brass tube, soldered as square as any possible to a (fairly large) piece of 2mm
PCB, long enough to rest on the adjacent axles.
(PCB is not ideal, as it has a tendency to warp depending on temperature or
humidity, but thats what I had).

Now, to solder both frames together, the first half frame with spacers already
soldered on, is clamped onto that jig, and both together are set onto the
masterchassis (with out that hornblock where the jig's tube is). Then the second
frame (also without that respective hornblock) is inserted. After checking super
carefully that all is reasonably square, both halfs are soldered up.
Its still super fiddly, but by now I'm getting it right first time.

Now, I think, it'd really be desirable for the masterchassis to have something
like a ruler, or a slotted (non-metal heat resistant) plate at the tool's front,
the frames can butt against and be clamped to. Big enough to rest an engineer's
square to check the tops of the frames are level. Especially considering the
precision the rest of the tool has built in...

All the best,

C,-w



> --- In masterchassis@..., brindlesmith@ wrote:
> >
> > I got mine from the States in about a week which wasn't so bad.
> > Now, back to my project and a couple of things have caught my attention.
While the chassis is square and free-running - very nicely so- I notice that my
wheelsets all seem to be at a very slight tangent to the frames. It doesn't seem
to cause any problems as the axles and rods still all seem to be aligned with
each other and run smoothly, it just looks slightly odd when viewed from above,
which I suppose won't be a serious issue when the body's on.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Secondly, what methods do you other fellows use when attaching detail parts
to the frame? Â I'm very aware of the risk of dislodging parts that you have
previously soldered on and it's happened once or twice already, to my
embarrasment!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks again!
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Dave.Â
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: waterloosl <steve_carter@>
> > To: masterchassis@...
> > Sent: Fri, 29 May 2009 22:43
> > Subject: [masterchassis] Re: First steps.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Thanks Dave
> >
> >
> >
> > I've found Mission models website and it looks a neat bit of kit.
> >
> >
> >
> > I have also found a supplier in the UK, Relish Models in Selby, North
Yorkshire, but the folder is currently out of stock.  I've emailed them for an
update as to when it is likely to be available in the UK again.
> >
> >
> >
> > No more info yet.
> >
> >
> >
> > Steve
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > --- In masterchassis@..., brindlesmith@ wrote:
> >
> > >
> >
> > > I'm off to work now Steve, but I'll look for the supplier of my folder, it
was an American outfit called Mission models, but I'll give you the full gen
later.
> >
> > > It's a hard plastic superstructure, but so far it's been up to any task
I've given it.
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Cheers,
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Dave.
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> >
> > > From: waterloosl <steve_carter@>
> >
> > > To: masterchassis@...
> >
> > > Sent: Wed, 27 May 2009 18:39
> >
> > > Subject: [masterchassis] Re: First steps.
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
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> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Good luck Dave
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > I'm in a simular position to you having come back to the hobby after 18
> >
> > >
> >
> > > years away.  I brought a Masterchassis at ExpoEM and am looking forward
> >
> > >
> >
> > > to building a chassis that runs smoothly!
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > I would like to know more about your etched part folder please?  Could
> >
> > >
> >
> > > you let me have some details?
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Thanks
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > Steve
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > --- In masterchassis@..., "Dave Smith" <brindlesmith@>
> >
> > >
> >
> > > wrote:
> > =0
> > A>
> >
> > > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > > Thanks Phil, I'll do that! On Sunday night I fitted the axle bearings
> >
> > >
> >
> > > (rigid for 00) and yesterday morning, I assembled the frames themselves.
> >
> > >
> >
> > > For the first time in my experience, it was a thoroughly enjoyable job
> >
> > >
> >
> > > and everything appears square and true. Later today I shall fit the
> >
> > >
> >
> > > wheels and test the rods for free running. I'm on a real learning curve
> >
> > >
> >
> > > here as the last of my early experiments was 10-15 years ago, so I've
> >
> > >
> >
> > > treated this as 'y
> >
> > > ear zero'. I'm taking small, careful steps all along
> >
> > >
> >
> > > the way, which means I'm taking a good deal more time over each stage
> >
> > >
> >
> > > than all you experienced boys probably do! Having the correct equipment
> >
> > >
> >
> > > such as temperature controlled soldering kit and an etched part folder
> >
> > >
> >
> > > makes a huge difference too, but the jig is the clincher!
> >
> > >
> >
> > > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > > Cheers,
> >
> > >
> >
> > > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > > Dave.
> >
> > >
> >
> > > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > > --- In masterchassis@..., "hhpja" phil@ wrote:
> >
> > >
> >
> > > > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > > > Hi Dave thanks for the kind comments
> >
> > >
> >
> > > > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > > > Let us all know how you get on, with pictures if possible.
> >
> > >
> >
> > > > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > > > Regards Phil
> >
> > >
> >
> > > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > 0A
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
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> > >
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> > >
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> > >
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> > >
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> > >
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> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > >
> >
> > > __________________________________________________________
> >
> > > AOL Email goes Mobile! You can now read your AOL Emails whilst on the
move. Sign up for a free AOL Email account with unlimited storage today.
> >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > ________________________________________________________________________
> > AOL Email goes Mobile! You can now read your AOL Emails whilst on the move.
Sign up for a free AOL Email account with unlimited storage today.
> >
>