Hi all,
Squirted cleaner in the connectors and plugged together a few times, re-set
ECU and went for a drive, all ok. Parked 10mins, came back and ----"no
tickover"------ resorted to tie-wrap throttle stop again!
Mechanic [definately not a specialist] had recently replaced front section
of exhaust [bit with sensor in], this now has a tiny air leak and whistles
ever so slightly on acceleration, he is replacing it under guarantee later
this week but feels that it's not enough to upset the ECU etc! But would he
know??? But then the car was ok beforehand!
He has offered to clean out the MAF unit and do a reset when fitting the
exhaust.
So it's hope for the best time now.
Out of interest I did a code check after the reset and after the latest
fault, guess what ------no codes!
Question: should the radiator fan come on when checking codes? wiggling of
the link and readout led wires will trip a relay and put it off for a while,
further movement will bring it back on!!
And I thought I had problems working out how my 20year old Volvo Estate
worked!
Will report back later, Regards, Bob Green.

----- Original Message -----
From: "John" <einst@...>
To: <mazda626uk@...>
Sent: Sunday, November 12, 2006 9:02 PM
Subject: [mazda626uk] Re: 626 No Tickover


> Hi guys... been on holiday :-)
>
> Bob, the codes should flash low numbers first, then higher ones..
> although you may have a 10 and 8 both of which are connected to the
> maf. and this could be the cause of your problem... which is probably
> down to the electrical connection, so give it a good clean...
>
> as said, reset the ECU by disconnecting the battery.. pressing the
> brake pedal will discharge the residual current stored in it.
>
> The idle speed is controlled by the ECU, using the ISC valve...
> there are no settings to be touched, as it is factory set.. any
> adjustments are done automatically by the ECU.
>
>
> John
>
>
>
>
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