Subject: [pip_squeak_and_wilfred] James 1946 122cc
I have a James 1946 which needs the electrics done as it has a very weak spark and was wondering where i could either buy new parts or have rebuilt by someone reliable. I am in NZ but will send anywhere to have done if i have to. Graeme.
I have a James 1946 which needs the electrics done as it has a very weak spark
and was wondering where i could either buy new parts or have rebuilt by someone
reliable. I am in NZ but will send anywhere to have done if i have to.
Graeme.
Can any kind person in the group send me a picture of the locking trigger on an
Autocycle clutch lever? My machine has the clutch lever, but minus that all
important trigger piece. I need a picture to enable me to manufacture a
replacement.
Gordon.
Thanks Ian, I will certainly follow this lead when I've got the registration
sorted.
Gordon.
--- In pip_squeak_and_wilfred@..., "Ian Soady" <iansoady@...>
wrote:
>
> --- In pip_squeak_and_wilfred@..., "Gordon" <gh018a8213@> wrote:
> >
> > Does any one know a source for white stick-on numbers for our black rear
numberplate?
> > Gordon.
> >
>
> Roger Worton, who does NSU Quickly spares, stocks them (of the correct size -
many of the ebay ones are too big).
>
> http://www.nsuquicklyspares.co.uk/index.html
>
> Ian
> 1958 Quickly
> 1955 Velo Venom
> 2004 Triummph Tiger 955i
>
--- In pip_squeak_and_wilfred@..., "Gordon" <gh018a8213@...>
wrote:
>
> Does any one know a source for white stick-on numbers for our black rear
numberplate?
> Gordon.
>
Roger Worton, who does NSU Quickly spares, stocks them (of the correct size -
many of the ebay ones are too big).
http://www.nsuquicklyspares.co.uk/index.html
Ian
1958 Quickly
1955 Velo Venom
2004 Triummph Tiger 955i
I agree with all Alan's comments but I think that the 1942 James had 26x1.75x2 tyres which aren't such a problem to find.
2.25 x 21" tyres are made out of solid unobtanium.
Check the tyre size and if they're 26" ones, you can relax a little.
Andrew
--- On Thu, 7/5/09, Alan Hummerstone <alan@...> wrote:
From: Alan Hummerstone <alan@...> Subject: Re: [pip_squeak_and_wilfred] Newby To: pip_squeak_and_wilfred@... Date: Thursday, 7 May, 2009, 5:14 PM
Hello Gordon,
There are several clubs who can help with information: the Vintage Motor Cycle Club, British Two Stroke Club, National Autocycle, and Cyclemotor Club, East Anglian Autocycle, and Cyclemotor Club, and I believe there is a James register, but my personal advice is to get yourself a new set of tyres before you start spending money on the bike. I believe lack of suitable tyres for these machines may well be a problem in the future for those of us with Auto Cycles. . Tony Etheridge 01923 231699 sometimes has them, and Bitzforbikes.co. uk might be able to help.
Hi All, My name is Gordon I live in Plymouth and have been into motorcycle since 1947. I've just bought a 1942 James Autocycle which is a new type for me. I'm looking for any one with a similar machine as I intend a bare metal restoration. Any help in sourcing parts, tyres, literature etc. will be most welcome.
Thanks Alan, all duly noted for action.
Gordon.
--- In pip_squeak_and_wilfred@..., "Alan Hummerstone" <alan@...>
wrote:
>
> Hello Gordon,
>
> There are several clubs who can help with information: the Vintage Motor
Cycle Club, British Two Stroke Club, National Autocycle, and Cyclemotor Club,
East Anglian Autocycle, and Cyclemotor Club, and I believe there is a James
register, but my personal advice is to get yourself a new set of tyres before
you start spending money on the bike. I believe lack of suitable tyres for these
machines may well be a problem in the future for those of us with Auto Cycles. .
Tony Etheridge 01923 231699 sometimes has them, and Bitzforbikes.co.uk might be
able to help.
>
> Alan
>
>
> -- Original Message -----
> From: Gordon
> To: pip_squeak_and_wilfred@...
> Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 9:17 AM
> Subject: [pip_squeak_and_wilfred] Newby
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi All,
> My name is Gordon I live in Plymouth and have been into motorcycle since
1947. I've just bought a 1942 James Autocycle which is a new type for me. I'm
looking for any one with a similar machine as I intend a bare metal restoration.
Any help in sourcing parts, tyres, literature etc. will be most welcome.
>
There are several clubs who can help with information: the Vintage Motor Cycle Club, British Two Stroke Club, National Autocycle, and Cyclemotor Club, East Anglian Autocycle, and Cyclemotor Club, and I believe there is a James register, but my personal advice is to get yourself a new set of tyres before you start spending money on the bike. I believe lack of suitable tyres for these machines may well be a problem in the future for those of us with Auto Cycles. . Tony Etheridge 01923 231699 sometimes has them, and Bitzforbikes.co.uk might be able to help.
Hi All, My name is Gordon I live in Plymouth and have been into motorcycle since 1947. I've just bought a 1942 James Autocycle which is a new type for me. I'm looking for any one with a similar machine as I intend a bare metal restoration. Any help in sourcing parts, tyres, literature etc. will be most welcome.
Hi All,
My name is Gordon I live in Plymouth and have been into motorcycle since 1947.
I've just bought a 1942 James Autocycle which is a new type for me. I'm looking
for any one with a similar machine as I intend a bare metal restoration. Any
help in sourcing parts, tyres, literature etc. will be most welcome.
--- In pip_squeak_and_wilfred@..., "Peter Etherington"
<peter.etherington@...> wrote:
>
> Thanks Robert, but it`s the arm on the rear wheel i`m after. Many thanks Pete
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Robert Hummerstone
> To: pip_squeak_and_wilfred@...
> Sent: Sunday, April 05, 2009 11:34 AM
> Subject: RE: [pip_squeak_and_wilfred] rear brake on Powerbike 56
>
>
> Hi I Have uploaded a couple of scans to the powerbike album one from the
NACC library not shore they will help but worth a look
>
>
>
> Robert
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> From: pip_squeak_and_wilfred@...
[mailto:pip_squeak_and_wilfred@...] On Behalf Of ether823
> Sent: 04 April 2009 18:16
> To: pip_squeak_and_wilfred@...
> Subject: [pip_squeak_and_wilfred] rear brake on Powerbike 56
>
>
>
> I wonder if anyone can help me. On my powerbike 56, to operate the rear
brake you pedal backwards, and in doing so today the arm of the brake has come
off. For the life of me I cant find how it was fastened on. There is a slot on
the arm which mates up to the male piece on the hub but there is no way of
keeping the arm on the hub. The only way I can think of keeping the arm on the
hub would be to drill and tap the slot then put a bolt in to secure the arm. Any
help would be grateful. Pete.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.41/2041 - Release Date: 04/04/09
16:53:00
>
I`ve sorted out the problem. The arm was swaged on. I`ve put a washer on and
tack welded. Pete
I wonder if anyone can help me. On my powerbike 56, to operate the rear brake you pedal backwards, and in doing so today the arm of the brake has come off. For the life of me I cant find how it was fastened on. There is a slot on the arm which mates up to the male piece on the hub but there is no way of keeping the arm on the hub. The only way I can think of keeping the arm on the hub would be to drill and tap the slot then put a bolt in to secure the arm. Any help would be grateful. Pete.
No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.0.238 / Virus Database: 270.11.41/2041 - Release Date: 04/04/09 16:53:00
Hi I Have uploaded a couple of scans to
the powerbike album one from the NACC library not shore they will help but worth
a look
Robert
From:
pip_squeak_and_wilfred@...
[mailto:pip_squeak_and_wilfred@...] On Behalf Of ether823 Sent: 04 April 2009 18:16 To:
pip_squeak_and_wilfred@... Subject: [pip_squeak_and_wilfred]
rear brake on Powerbike 56
I wonder if anyone can help me. On my powerbike 56, to
operate the rear brake you pedal backwards, and in doing so today the arm of
the brake has come off. For the life of me I cant find how it was fastened on.
There is a slot on the arm which mates up to the male piece on the hub but
there is no way of keeping the arm on the hub. The only way I can think of
keeping the arm on the hub would be to drill and tap the slot then put a bolt
in to secure the arm. Any help would be grateful. Pete.
I wonder if anyone can help me. On my powerbike 56, to operate the rear brake
you pedal backwards, and in doing so today the arm of the brake has come off.
For the life of me I cant find how it was fastened on. There is a slot on the
arm which mates up to the male piece on the hub but there is no way of keeping
the arm on the hub. The only way I can think of keeping the arm on the hub would
be to drill and tap the slot then put a bolt in to secure the arm. Any help
would be grateful. Pete.
I am fortunate enough, or perhaps sad enough to own a number of Power Paks. I have found that the most important thing concerning tyre wear is to set up the engine so that it is square with the tyre, and adjusted for tension so there is no slip. Pumping the tyre up hard seems to help. Too much roller pressure will reduce performance, but I have found that the Power Pak has the best engagemment mechanism of the tyre rubbers, and has a really good adjusting arrangement. Power Pak supplied a guage with three feelers, one for plug, one for points, and one for tyre clearance. I have looked without success for one of these guages for years..
I have seen other cyclemotorists in trouble with wet weather tyre slip, whilst the faithful Power Paks have sailed serenly by. The tread pattern doesn't seem to matter much, and although modern tyres seem to be much softer than the were in the day, I have managed several hundred miles on the same tyre without a problem. I wish I could say the same for some of my other machines.
I have always used a product call welseal discovered it being used by
motor cycle race teams years ago and was converted straight away.
A tube last a life time as you only smear on each side of the gasket
also when dismantling gasket does not stick to the metal surfaces.
--- In pip_squeak_and_wilfred@..., "coadmil" <coad@...>
wrote:
>
> And what about between the cylinder and the head? Is there really no
> gasket there? Again, would a bit of Permatex be a good idea?
>
>
> Thanks for any help or advice.
>
>
> Coad Miller
> Grand Island, Nebraska USA
>
I've used Wellseal, which is a shellac-based sealant, on the head of
my NSU Quickly - no gasket - (as well as my Velo Venom) with success.
Don't know if it's available in the States though.
Ian
1958 NSU Quickly
1955 Velo Viper/Venom
2004 Triumph Tiger 955i
Thank you. I appreciate the information.
Cyclemasters are a bit thin on the ground in this country, so this
group is a fantastic help. The condenser is replaced and the spark is
a dream.
Coad
On Jan 21, 2009, at 8:33 PM, ANDREW RODDHAM wrote:
>
> Coad,
>
> There should be a paper gasket between the cylinder & block. I
> usually make my own out of cartridge (drawing) paper. I also tend to
> use a very thin smear of silicon sealant on the gasket just to be
> sure although this isn't really necessary.
>
> The head to cylinder is supposed to be sealed with a thin coating of
> hard setting sealant. If I remember the manual correctly, it
> suggests "gold size" which is the glue used to set gold leaf.
>
> I use "Hermatite Green" sealant although this isn't so easy to find
> nowadays in the UK and may not be available at all in the USA. I
> have also used a thin coating of silicon sealant and that seemed to
> be quite effective. What you should not do is use a gasket. Provided
> that the faces of the head & cylinder are flat, none is necessary.
>
> Regards,
> Andrew
>
> --- On Wed, 21/1/09, coadmil <coad@...> wrote:
> From: coadmil <coad@...>
> Subject: [pip_squeak_and_wilfred] Another Cyclemaster Question
> To: pip_squeak_and_wilfred@...
> Date: Wednesday, 21 January, 2009, 10:06 PM
>
> I'm wondering what everyone is doing about sealing the cylinder and
> the head? Is the paper gasket between the case and the cylinder
> adequate, or should a person use a product like Permatex to make a
> gasket there?
>
> And what about between the cylinder and the head? Is there really no
> gasket there? Again, would a bit of Permatex be a good idea?
>
> Thanks for any help or advice.
>
> Coad Miller
> Grand Island, Nebraska USA
>
>
>
There should be a paper gasket between the cylinder & block. I usually make my own out of cartridge (drawing) paper. I also tend to use a very thin smear of silicon sealant on the gasket just to be sure although this isn't really necessary.
The head to cylinder is supposed to be sealed with a thin coating of hard setting sealant. If I remember the manual correctly, it suggests "gold size" which is the glue used to set gold leaf.
I use "Hermatite Green" sealant although this isn't so easy to find nowadays in the UK and may not be available at all in the USA. I have also used a thin coating of silicon sealant and that seemed to be quite effective. What you should not do is use a gasket. Provided that the faces of the head & cylinder are flat, none is necessary.
Regards,
Andrew
--- On Wed, 21/1/09, coadmil <coad@...> wrote:
From: coadmil <coad@...> Subject: [pip_squeak_and_wilfred] Another Cyclemaster Question To: pip_squeak_and_wilfred@... Date: Wednesday, 21 January, 2009, 10:06 PM
I'm wondering what everyone is doing about sealing the cylinder and the head? Is the paper gasket between the case and the cylinder adequate, or should a person use a product like Permatex to make a gasket there?
And what about between the cylinder and the head? Is there really no gasket there? Again, would a bit of Permatex be a good idea?
I'm wondering what everyone is doing about sealing the cylinder and
the head? Is the paper gasket between the case and the cylinder
adequate, or should a person use a product like Permatex to make a
gasket there?
And what about between the cylinder and the head? Is there really no
gasket there? Again, would a bit of Permatex be a good idea?
Thanks for any help or advice.
Coad Miller
Grand Island, Nebraska USA
Thank you. Just what I was looking for. Off to Radio Shack.
Will keep you posted.
Coad Miller
On Jan 8, 2009, at 3:16 AM, <donw1@...> <donw1@...> wrote:
>
> Sorry i replied before but didnt read the question properly
>
> Mine is a power Pac
>
> However you can still do the same --find somewhere to mount the
> condenser and run a wire to the points--it can be anywhere as long
> as it is earthed to the motor
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: ANDREW RODDHAM
> To: pip_squeak_and_wilfred@...
> Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 6:31 PM
> Subject: Re: [pip_squeak_and_wilfred] Cyclemaster Condenser?
>
>
> Coad,
>
> The original condenser's are no longer available and any old stock
> you might find will be pretty useless by now. These old foil /
> paper / wax filled components deteriorate with age rather than with
> use. They actually weren't that good when they were new.....
>
> Most of the replacements that you can buy are either too big & won't
> fit under the flywheel (and are of too high a capacity) or are
> simply radio components that you might buy from an electronics store
> anywhere in the world for a few pennies.
>
> I recommend that you visit a local electronics store (Radio Shack ?)
> and buy a radio capacitor to the following specification:
>
> Voltage: >65v
> Capacitance: 0.1 microfarad
> Type: Polystyrene or Polyester, cylindrical style with a flylead at
> each end.
>
> You should be able to find one physically small enough to actually
> fit inside the original brass casing. The ones I use are about 3/16"
> diameter x 1/2" long.
>
> I fix them into the casing by:
> Drilling a hole in the bottom, pulling out the original contents &
> cleaning it out,
> Fit a new connecting wire to one of the flyleads of the capacitor &
> feed it into the casing (this is the end that will connect to the
> breakers),
> Fix the capacitor into the casing with epoxy glue (note it is not
> necessaty to completely fill the casing, use just enough to stop the
> capacitor from rattling around)
> Cut a small piece of thin brass or use a small brass washer to close
> the drilling
> Solder the brass / washer onto the casing, ensuring that you solder
> the other capacitor flylead onto the casing at the same time.
>
> If it is done neatly, it is almost impossible to tell a condensor
> that has been remanufactured from an original - except that it will
> work much better !
>
> Good luck,
>
> Andrew
>
> From: coadmil <coad@...>
> To: pip_squeak_and_wilfred@...
> Sent: Thursday, 8 January, 2009 12:29:02 PM
> Subject: [pip_squeak_and_wilfred] Cyclemaster Condenser?
>
> Hello
>
> I'm trying to get a Cyclemaster running, and I think I need a
> condenser. Since I'm in the USA it would be much easier if there was a
> substitute I could find locally instead of dealing with ordering from
> the UK.
>
> Does anyone have a suitable substitute that might be readily available
> here?
>
> Thanks
>
> Coad Miller
>
>
>
>
>
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