Thank you. Just what I was looking for. Off to Radio Shack.
Will keep you posted.
Coad Miller
On Jan 8, 2009, at 3:16 AM, <donw1@...> <donw1@...> wrote:
>
> Sorry i replied before but didnt read the question properly
>
> Mine is a power Pac
>
> However you can still do the same --find somewhere to mount the
> condenser and run a wire to the points--it can be anywhere as long
> as it is earthed to the motor
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: ANDREW RODDHAM
> To: pip_squeak_and_wilfred@...
> Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 6:31 PM
> Subject: Re: [pip_squeak_and_wilfred] Cyclemaster Condenser?
>
>
> Coad,
>
> The original condenser's are no longer available and any old stock
> you might find will be pretty useless by now. These old foil /
> paper / wax filled components deteriorate with age rather than with
> use. They actually weren't that good when they were new.....
>
> Most of the replacements that you can buy are either too big & won't
> fit under the flywheel (and are of too high a capacity) or are
> simply radio components that you might buy from an electronics store
> anywhere in the world for a few pennies.
>
> I recommend that you visit a local electronics store (Radio Shack ?)
> and buy a radio capacitor to the following specification:
>
> Voltage: >65v
> Capacitance: 0.1 microfarad
> Type: Polystyrene or Polyester, cylindrical style with a flylead at
> each end.
>
> You should be able to find one physically small enough to actually
> fit inside the original brass casing. The ones I use are about 3/16"
> diameter x 1/2" long.
>
> I fix them into the casing by:
> Drilling a hole in the bottom, pulling out the original contents &
> cleaning it out,
> Fit a new connecting wire to one of the flyleads of the capacitor &
> feed it into the casing (this is the end that will connect to the
> breakers),
> Fix the capacitor into the casing with epoxy glue (note it is not
> necessaty to completely fill the casing, use just enough to stop the
> capacitor from rattling around)
> Cut a small piece of thin brass or use a small brass washer to close
> the drilling
> Solder the brass / washer onto the casing, ensuring that you solder
> the other capacitor flylead onto the casing at the same time.
>
> If it is done neatly, it is almost impossible to tell a condensor
> that has been remanufactured from an original - except that it will
> work much better !
>
> Good luck,
>
> Andrew
>
> From: coadmil <coad@...>
> To: pip_squeak_and_wilfred@...
> Sent: Thursday, 8 January, 2009 12:29:02 PM
> Subject: [pip_squeak_and_wilfred] Cyclemaster Condenser?
>
> Hello
>
> I'm trying to get a Cyclemaster running, and I think I need a
> condenser. Since I'm in the USA it would be much easier if there was a
> substitute I could find locally instead of dealing with ordering from
> the UK.
>
> Does anyone have a suitable substitute that might be readily available
> here?
>
> Thanks
>
> Coad Miller
>
>
>
>
>
Sorry i replied before but didnt read the question properly
Mine is a power Pac
However you can still do the same --find somewhere to mount the condenser and run a wire to the points--it can be anywhere as long as it is earthed to the motor
The original condenser's are no longer available and any old stock you might find will be pretty useless by now. These old foil / paper / wax filled components deteriorate with age rather than with use. They actually weren't that good when they were new.....
Most of the replacements that you can buy are either too big & won't fit under the flywheel (and are of too high a capacity) or are simply radio components that you might buy from an electronics store anywhere in the world for a few pennies.
I recommend that you visit a local electronics store (Radio Shack ?) and buy a radio capacitor to the following specification:
Voltage: >65v
Capacitance: 0.1 microfarad
Type: Polystyrene or Polyester, cylindrical style with a flylead at each end.
You should be able to find one physically small enough to actually fit inside the original brass casing. The ones I use are about 3/16" diameter x 1/2" long.
I fix them into the casing by:
Drilling a hole in the bottom, pulling out the original contents & cleaning it out,
Fit a new connecting wire to one of the flyleads of the capacitor & feed it into the casing (this is the end that will connect to the breakers),
Fix the capacitor into the casing with epoxy glue (note it is not necessaty to completely fill the casing, use just enough to stop the capacitor from rattling around)
Cut a small piece of thin brass or use a small brass washer to close the drilling
Solder the brass / washer onto the casing, ensuring that you solder the other capacitor flylead onto the casing at the same time.
If it is done neatly, it is almost impossible to tell a condensor that has been remanufactured from an original - except that it will work much better !
I'm trying to get a Cyclemaster running, and I think I need a condenser. Since I'm in the USA it would be much easier if there was a substitute I could find locally instead of dealing with ordering from the UK.
Does anyone have a suitable substitute that might be readily available here?
Hi Im in NZ but had same problem all i did was use a lawnmower condenser, run a wir to the back of breaker plate and mount it there --- works a dream--it was a briggs or iron horse one i think is right out of the way
The original condenser's are no longer available and any old stock you might find will be pretty useless by now. These old foil / paper / wax filled components deteriorate with age rather than with use. They actually weren't that good when they were new.....
Most of the replacements that you can buy are either too big & won't fit under the flywheel (and are of too high a capacity) or are simply radio components that you might buy from an electronics store anywhere in the world for a few pennies.
I recommend that you visit a local electronics store (Radio Shack ?) and buy a radio capacitor to the following specification:
Voltage: >65v
Capacitance: 0.1 microfarad
Type: Polystyrene or Polyester, cylindrical style with a flylead at each end.
You should be able to find one physically small enough to actually fit inside the original brass casing. The ones I use are about 3/16" diameter x 1/2" long.
I fix them into the casing by:
Drilling a hole in the bottom, pulling out the original contents & cleaning it out,
Fit a new connecting wire to one of the flyleads of the capacitor & feed it into the casing (this is the end that will connect to the breakers),
Fix the capacitor into the casing with epoxy glue (note it is not necessaty to completely fill the casing, use just enough to stop the capacitor from rattling around)
Cut a small piece of thin brass or use a small brass washer to close the drilling
Solder the brass / washer onto the casing, ensuring that you solder the other capacitor flylead onto the casing at the same time.
If it is done neatly, it is almost impossible to tell a condensor that has been remanufactured from an original - except that it will work much better !
I'm trying to get a Cyclemaster running, and I think I need a condenser. Since I'm in the USA it would be much easier if there was a substitute I could find locally instead of dealing with ordering from the UK.
Does anyone have a suitable substitute that might be readily available here?
The original condenser's are no longer available and any old stock you might find will be pretty useless by now. These old foil / paper / wax filled components deteriorate with age rather than with use. They actually weren't that good when they were new.....
Most of the replacements that you can buy are either too big & won't fit under the flywheel (and are of too high a capacity) or are simply radio components that you might buy from an electronics store anywhere in the world for a few pennies.
I recommend that you visit a local electronics store (Radio Shack ?) and buy a radio capacitor to the following specification:
Voltage: >65v
Capacitance: 0.1 microfarad
Type: Polystyrene or Polyester, cylindrical style with a flylead at each end.
You should be able to find one physically small enough to actually fit inside the original brass casing. The ones I use are about 3/16" diameter x 1/2" long.
I fix them into the casing by:
Drilling a hole in the bottom, pulling out the original contents & cleaning it out,
Fit a new connecting wire to one of the flyleads of the capacitor & feed it into the casing (this is the end that will connect to the breakers),
Fix the capacitor into the casing with epoxy glue (note it is not necessaty to completely fill the casing, use just enough to stop the capacitor from rattling around)
Cut a small piece of thin brass or use a small brass washer to close the drilling
Solder the brass / washer onto the casing, ensuring that you solder the other capacitor flylead onto the casing at the same time.
If it is done neatly, it is almost impossible to tell a condensor that has been remanufactured from an original - except that it will work much better !
I'm trying to get a Cyclemaster running, and I think I need a condenser. Since I'm in the USA it would be much easier if there was a substitute I could find locally instead of dealing with ordering from the UK.
Does anyone have a suitable substitute that might be readily available here?
Hello
I'm trying to get a Cyclemaster running, and I think I need a
condenser. Since I'm in the USA it would be much easier if there was a
substitute I could find locally instead of dealing with ordering from
the UK.
Does anyone have a suitable substitute that might be readily available
here?
Thanks
Coad Miller
Just posted some photos of collection of English Dayton motors as used
on Dayton cyclette before the villiers motor was used. Just thought
might be interesting as am doing a deal at the moment as i will never
get them mobile.
Graeme.
--- In pip_squeak_and_wilfred@..., "Ian Soady"
<iansoady@...> wrote:
>
> --- In pip_squeak_and_wilfred@..., "ether823"
> <peter.etherington@> wrote:
> >
> > Hi all, If I were to show my autocycle at a country show or a steam
> > rally would I need some sort of insurance, wether it be pubic
> > liability or otherwise? Pete
> >
>
> I'd check with the organisers but they should have public liability
> insurance for the whole event. I must say I'd be uncomfortable if I
> didn't have my own RTA standard insurance as well, although I can't see
> my Quickly causing too much damage......
>
> Ian
> 1958 NSU Quickly
> 1955 Velo Viper
> 2004 Triumph Tiger 955i
>
Thanks Ian. Pete
--- In pip_squeak_and_wilfred@..., "ether823"
<peter.etherington@...> wrote:
>
> Hi all, If I were to show my autocycle at a country show or a steam
> rally would I need some sort of insurance, wether it be pubic
> liability or otherwise? Pete
>
I'd check with the organisers but they should have public liability
insurance for the whole event. I must say I'd be uncomfortable if I
didn't have my own RTA standard insurance as well, although I can't see
my Quickly causing too much damage......
Ian
1958 NSU Quickly
1955 Velo Viper
2004 Triumph Tiger 955i
Hi all, If I were to show my autocycle at a country show or a steam
rally would I need some sort of insurance, wether it be pubic
liability or otherwise? Pete
Hi all, I`ve aquired a francis barnett autocycle and i`m trying to
find out its age. The stamping on the left side below the saddle
states M and what looks like a B but if it has an M it must be an H.
(These two letters are not very clear.) This makes it a 1946/7
powerbike 50. I`ve never seen a picture of a powerbike 50 but only a
powerbike 56 and my machine looks like a 56. What were the differences
between the two? What mixture does it take? Can you use unleaded with
oil? Many thanks Pete
For motorcycles The number system is simply chronological, the letter designates the engine size. I don't know the industrial engine system.
So, "F" designates a (nominal) 100cc engine, the 1F was designed/released before the 2F which was released before the 4F etc. I suppose that they sold the 1F for a while as a motorcycle unit alongside the JDL autocycle engine, only releasing the 2F when the JDL ceased production.
There are often gaps in the numbering which probably shows an engine that was designed but not sold e.g. 3F & 5F.
Andrew
----- Original Message ---- From: Alan Hummerstone <alan@...> To: pip_squeak_and_wilfred@... Sent: Friday, 17 October, 2008 3:49:23 AM Subject: Re: [pip_squeak_and_wilfred] Villers type 28 engine
Hello Don,
According to Jack Sizer's Villiers book, the 1955 type 28B was an industrial engine of 353cc, and a two stroke. In 1974, Villiers produced type C28 which was again an industrial unit, a four stroke of 256cc.
Villiers' numbering system is an enigma to me. We do have a couple of New Hudson Autocycles with Villiers 2F engines, and I just love the sweet way they run. The 2F is single speed, but the 1F is 2speed. It must have made sense to someone at the time.
Christmas before last, Dearly beloved bought me a 'Project' to keep me
quiet of an evening. It was a New Hudson autocycle of about 1955
vintage (not the 're-styled'), missing several major parts, (like the
flywheel magneto for one), and looking as if it had been dunked in a
vat of maroon paint, and given a quick once over with a lavatory brush
(tyres and all). What was left of the engine was in good condition,
having a new un-run piston in a newly rebored cylinder. I suspect that
as whoever it was could not get it going, he then started pulling it
apart, and over the passing of several decades, lost the parts. It
became obvious why it would not run when I lifted the barrel, as the
cylinder base gasket had been fitted backwards, and had neatly sealed
the transfer ports. Although there is still quite a bit to do on it,
having today made up a clutch cable, I thought there is no reason why
it wouldn't run, so I mixed up a 1/2 litre of 2 stroke, pedalled off,
and what joy! It goes! I now have a re-newed impetus to finish it. If
anyone can help with a chainguard for the drive side, I have one for an
older (probably pre-war) one I could swap.
Cheers, Bob
--- In pip_squeak_and_wilfred@..., Remo Ruta
<remo.ruta@...> wrote:
>
> http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Honda-P50-
1967_W0QQitemZ250309466391QQcmdZViewItem?
>
> --- On Thu, 10/16/08, Don Wilcox <donw1@...> wrote:
>
> From: Don Wilcox <donw1@...>
> Re Honda P50 --Anyone know where there is one--had one as a kid now
> want one again--thanks
>
One here but may be a little far for you......
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/1975-HONDA-
RED_W0QQitemZ220299964491QQcmdZViewItem?
hash=item220299964491&_trkparms=39%3A1%7C66%3A4%7C65%3A10%7C240%
3A1318&_trksid=p3286.c0.m14
Ian
1958 NSU Quickly
1955 Velo Viper
2004 Triumph Tiger 955i
--- On Thu, 10/16/08, Don Wilcox <donw1@...> wrote:
From: Don Wilcox <donw1@...> Subject: [pip_squeak_and_wilfred] Honda P50/ Power Pac To: pip_squeak_and_wilfred@... Date: Thursday, October 16, 2008, 7:46 AM
Two questions folks
Im in NZ and want to get my power Pac flywheel re magenitized --saw something on my net searches a while ago but lost it - can anyone advise me please who can do it--the magnets are not removalable
Re Honda P50 --Anyone know where there is one--had one as a kid now want one again--thanks
According to Jack Sizer's Villiers book, the 1955 type 28B was an industrial engine of 353cc, and a two stroke. In 1974, Villiers produced type C28 which was again an industrial unit, a four stroke of 256cc.
Villiers' numbering system is an enigma to me. We do have a couple of New Hudson Autocycles with Villiers 2F engines, and I just love the sweet way they run. The 2F is single speed, but the 1F is 2speed. It must have made sense to someone at the time.
A question on behalf of a friend
He has a type 28 ??? Villers engine and would love any help on it
Year unknown cc unknown but is old in his terms--Any info out there
Thanks
Two questions folks
Im in NZ and want to get my power Pac flywheel re magenitized --saw
something on my net searches a while ago but lost it - can anyone
advise me please who can do it--the magnets are not removalable
Re Honda P50 --Anyone know where there is one--had one as a kid now
want one again--thanks
I apologise for the last mesage I do not what to have to resticte
membership to this group and I am afraid doing so leaves it open to
that sort of thing
And Good luck to anyone taking part in the 100 mile run tomorrow
Robert Hummerstone
Just to say hello - I'm a long-term member of the VMCC with a Velo
Viper and a modern Hinckley Triumph Tiger but am dipping a toe into
this new (to me) area with an NSU Quickly S (with the lovely art deco
mudguards) which I'm restoring with the aim of slinging it on the back
of the car for the morning baguette and croissant run when caravanning
in France.
Ian
1958 NSU Quickly
1955 Velo Viper
2004 Triumph Tiger 955i
Thanks for that Alan--you information is appreciated,,just a couple of questions---does 45 relate to 45thou hole size, and as I am in NZ would you know Surrey Cycles email address. Thanks again
If you have the Amal carb, the correct main jet is a 45 availlable from Surrey Cycles 01483 272328. I run several Power Paks, and they all run a little rich flat out downhill. I guess it's no bad thing.
Has anyone got a spare main jet for my power pac or can give me details of its bore size..Mine is not the correct one and is running lean. I have filled it with solder and gradually opening it out but the exact size or a correct one would be a great help....Thanks folks
Thanks for that Alan--you information is appreciated,,just a couple of questions---does 45 relate to 45thou hole size, and as I am in NZ would you know Surrey Cycles email address. Thanks again
If you have the Amal carb, the correct main jet is a 45 availlable from Surrey Cycles 01483 272328. I run several Power Paks, and they all run a little rich flat out downhill. I guess it's no bad thing.
Has anyone got a spare main jet for my power pac or can give me details of its bore size..Mine is not the correct one and is running lean. I have filled it with solder and gradually opening it out but the exact size or a correct one would be a great help....Thanks folks
If you have the Amal carb, the correct main jet is a 45 availlable from Surrey Cycles 01483 272328. I run several Power Paks, and they all run a little rich flat out downhill. I guess it's no bad thing.
Has anyone got a spare main jet for my power pac or can give me details of its bore size..Mine is not the correct one and is running lean. I have filled it with solder and gradually opening it out but the exact size or a correct one would be a great help....Thanks folks
Has anyone got a spare main jet for my power pac or can give me details
of its bore size..Mine is not the correct one and is running lean. I
have filled it with solder and gradually opening it out but the exact
size or a correct one would be a great help....Thanks folks
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