Hello pals, I just finnished a Web page dedicated to the Mexican
modelmaker Necomisa, who in the seventies and eighties manufactured
under licence the whole Lindberg line, in this first version there are
several boxart, with time more boxart, instructions sheets and decal
will appear, bye, best regards from Mexico.

Hello pals, I just finnished a Web page dedicated to the Mexican
modelmaker Necomisa, who in the seventies and eighties manufactured
under licence the whole Lindberg line, in this first version there are
several boxart, with time more boxart, instructions sheets and decal
will appear, bye, best regards from Mexico.

Hello pals, I just finnished a Web page dedicated to the Mexican
modelmaker Necomisa, who in the seventies and eighties manufactured
under licence the whole Lindberg line, in this first version there are
several boxart, with time more boxart, instructions sheets and decal
will appear, bye, best regards from Mexico.

-----Original Message-----
From: themodelcatalogue@... [mailto:themodelcatalogue@...]On Behalf Of Eddie Cottington
Sent: 05 September 2006 11:41
To: themodelcatalogue@...
Subject: [themodelcatalogue] Re: Apologies are in order!

Did wonder what all that was about!! Not to worry, been having similar
problems with someone on eBay...

Did wonder what all that was about!! Not to worry, been having similar
problems with someone on eBay...

-----Original Message-----
From: themodelcatalogue@... [mailto:themodelcatalogue@...]On Behalf Of Elliott Saunders
Sent: 01 August 2006 14:38
To: themodelcatalogue@...
Subject: Re: [themodelcatalogue] Digest Number 38

Tom I think that was a perfectly honest and respectful reply you gave the
gentleman.  I would have done the same.  Sometimes, the Internet can make
people act less perfectly than in regular society because there is the
element of no face-to-face contact; they can remain anon with one-use emails
and IP blockers.  Most chat or boards get their fare share, thankfully, you
got rid of him before he made any further problems.

Elliott

----- Original Message -----
From: <themodelcatalogue@...>
To: <themodelcatalogue@...>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 10:13 AM
Subject: [themodelcatalogue] Digest Number 38


There are 3 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

   1.  Re: Model shops in Essex
         From: "redhandmanc" paddy@...
   2.  Apologies are in order!
         From: "Tom Jolly" tom.jolly@...
   3.  Re: Apologies are in order!
         From: "Jim Brokaw" jabrokaw2@...

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 1
   Date: Mon Jul 31, 2006 11:07 am
   From: "redhandmanc" paddy@...
Subject: Re: Model shops in Essex


Tell you what - go to hell

I am a 45 year old - and do not need your patronizing bloody
attitude - shove your answer and your forum up your bloody rectum---

Whats more its no wonder no-one ever uses the forums if hats your
attitude

Yes remove me from the members -


> Hi,
>
> Before I reply to your post I need to make a couple of points as
moderator
> of this group.
>
> 1. Please sign off your post with your full name. This is an
important part
> of discussion group protocol which I like to encourage. Would you
go to an
> IPMS meeting with a balaclava on to conceal your identity?
> 2. I find it Interesting what you say about the quality of Revell
mouldings
> however I would prefer that if you are going write any negative
comments
> about third parties you be more specific about your frustrations.
This is so
> that it is of some use to the readers of this group and perhaps to
the
> manufacturer as well.
>
> My moderator hat is off now so I will continue with my response to
your
> post.
>
> I know that Revell will be the first to admit they have some old /
classsic
> moulds in their stable (from Matchbox and the like), which are not
very
> strong on detail compared to the quality seen today in new moulds
and I
> agree that some of them are losing their crispness but the story
is not
> unique to Revell. They continue to roll out these kits simply
because there
> is a demand for them, not because they want to frustrate their
customers.
>
> What is more the new kits that Revell are producing are largely
accepted to
> be top notch when it comes of mould quality and detail. I am always
> stumbling on articles in the press and on discussion boards about
the high
> quality of the work they do. Good examples are the Antonov An-124
or the new
> range of 1:144 kits.
>
> If you want to try other manufacturers (which I would personally
recommend
> for variety anyway) and you want top notch mould quality, go for
Trumpeter,
> Tamiya, Hasegawa or Academy.
>
> I am not familiar with Essex so I cannot recommend any stores I'm
afraid.
>
> Kindest regards,
> Tom Jolly.
>   -----Original Message-----
>   From: themodelcatalogue@...
> [mailto:themodelcatalogue@...]On Behalf Of
redhandmanc
>   Sent: 29 July 2006 16:57
>   To: themodelcatalogue@...
>   Subject: [themodelcatalogue] Model shops in Essex
>
>
>   Hi - Can anyone recommend any good stockists of plastic model
kits in
>   South Essex.
>
>   IN addition - I am fedup with the bad mouldings I get with
Revell -
>   anyone suggest the best manufacturer at reasonable prices -
mouldings
>   that are good quality please
>
>   thanks
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 2
   Date: Mon Jul 31, 2006 7:30 pm
   From: "Tom Jolly" tom.jolly@...
Subject: Apologies are in order!


Dear Members,

For those of you who received an email containing some crude language
from an ex-member of this discussion group I apologise. All the
related messages have been deleted from the post history so as not to
offend anyone else (it certainly shocked and offended me).

For the record I have an onerous responsibility as moderator of the
group to ensure that the content of the group is open, polite,
responsible, balanced, non-confrontational and constructive. In
addition, if anyone has an opinion it goes without saying that it must
be backed up with logical reasoning, particularly if it is negative in
nature. If someone has an opinion that a kit is rubbish, that is fine
but do explain why it is considered a pile of junk!

Why? Quite simply because it is the right thing to do, but also
because I don't want to be sued: as moderator and owner of the group
it is me they will come after if anyone writes anything defamatory or
libellous, not the author of the post.

Clearly the content of the gentleman's initial email was lacking
openness (it had no name) and it was mildly confrontational
(propositioning a negative opinion about a reputable name in the
business without backing it up with reasoning).

I tried to craft a response that communicated this message in a polite
and respectful manner. Clearly it was not interpreted in that way and
for that I am truly sorry: it is not in my nature to seek out
confrontation.

I don't think I wrote anything condescending and certainly nothing was
written to justify such an aggressive response. However if I did
perhaps someone will be kind enough to let me know.

You can either post direct to the group or email me directly
(tom<atsign>themodelcatalogue.com)

We never stop learning and if I need to adjust my approach in these
matters I will do so.

Kindest regards,

Tom Jolly.





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 3
   Date: Mon Jul 31, 2006 9:29 pm
   From: "Jim Brokaw" jabrokaw2@...
Subject: Re: Apologies are in order!


Apologies may be in order, Tom, but certainly not from
you.  Having shouldered a similar burden, it seems to
me you're doing a fine job.
Carry on,
Jim Brokaw

--- Tom Jolly <tom.jolly@...> wrote:

> Dear Members,
>
> For those of you who received an email containing
> some crude language
> from an ex-member of this discussion group I
> apologise. All the
> related messages have been deleted from the post
> history so as not to
> offend anyone else (it certainly shocked and
> offended me).
>
> For the record I have an onerous responsibility as
> moderator of the
> group to ensure that the content of the group is
> open, polite,
> responsible, balanced, non-confrontational and
> constructive. In
> addition, if anyone has an opinion it goes without
> saying that it must
> be backed up with logical reasoning, particularly if
> it is negative in
> nature. If someone has an opinion that a kit is
> rubbish, that is fine
> but do explain why it is considered a pile of junk!
>
> Why? Quite simply because it is the right thing to
> do, but also
> because I don't want to be sued: as moderator and
> owner of the group
> it is me they will come after if anyone writes
> anything defamatory or
> libellous, not the author of the post.
>
> Clearly the content of the gentleman's initial email
> was lacking
> openness (it had no name) and it was mildly
> confrontational
> (propositioning a negative opinion about a reputable
> name in the
> business without backing it up with reasoning).
>
> I tried to craft a response that communicated this
> message in a polite
> and respectful manner. Clearly it was not
> interpreted in that way and
> for that I am truly sorry: it is not in my nature to
> seek out
> confrontation.
>
> I don't think I wrote anything condescending and
> certainly nothing was
> written to justify such an aggressive response.
> However if I did
> perhaps someone will be kind enough to let me know.
>
> You can either post direct to the group or email me
> directly
> (tom<atsign>themodelcatalogue.com)
>
> We never stop learning and if I need to adjust my
> approach in these
> matters I will do so.
>
> Kindest regards,
>
> Tom Jolly.
>
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links




------------------------------------------------------------------------

Tom I think that was a perfectly honest and respectful reply you gave the
gentleman.  I would have done the same.  Sometimes, the Internet can make
people act less perfectly than in regular society because there is the
element of no face-to-face contact; they can remain anon with one-use emails
and IP blockers.  Most chat or boards get their fare share, thankfully, you
got rid of him before he made any further problems.

Elliott

----- Original Message -----
From: <themodelcatalogue@...>
To: <themodelcatalogue@...>
Sent: Tuesday, August 01, 2006 10:13 AM
Subject: [themodelcatalogue] Digest Number 38


There are 3 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

    1.  Re: Model shops in Essex
          From: "redhandmanc" paddy@...
    2.  Apologies are in order!
          From: "Tom Jolly" tom.jolly@...
    3.  Re: Apologies are in order!
          From: "Jim Brokaw" jabrokaw2@...

________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 1
    Date: Mon Jul 31, 2006 11:07 am
    From: "redhandmanc" paddy@...
Subject: Re: Model shops in Essex


  Tell you what - go to hell

I am a 45 year old - and do not need your patronizing bloody
attitude - shove your answer and your forum up your bloody rectum---

Whats more its no wonder no-one ever uses the forums if hats your
attitude

Yes remove me from the members -


> Hi,
>
> Before I reply to your post I need to make a couple of points as
moderator
> of this group.
>
> 1. Please sign off your post with your full name. This is an
important part
> of discussion group protocol which I like to encourage. Would you
go to an
> IPMS meeting with a balaclava on to conceal your identity?
> 2. I find it Interesting what you say about the quality of Revell
mouldings
> however I would prefer that if you are going write any negative
comments
> about third parties you be more specific about your frustrations.
This is so
> that it is of some use to the readers of this group and perhaps to
the
> manufacturer as well.
>
> My moderator hat is off now so I will continue with my response to
your
> post.
>
> I know that Revell will be the first to admit they have some old /
classsic
> moulds in their stable (from Matchbox and the like), which are not
very
> strong on detail compared to the quality seen today in new moulds
and I
> agree that some of them are losing their crispness but the story
is not
> unique to Revell. They continue to roll out these kits simply
because there
> is a demand for them, not because they want to frustrate their
customers.
>
> What is more the new kits that Revell are producing are largely
accepted to
> be top notch when it comes of mould quality and detail. I am always
> stumbling on articles in the press and on discussion boards about
the high
> quality of the work they do. Good examples are the Antonov An-124
or the new
> range of 1:144 kits.
>
> If you want to try other manufacturers (which I would personally
recommend
> for variety anyway) and you want top notch mould quality, go for
Trumpeter,
> Tamiya, Hasegawa or Academy.
>
> I am not familiar with Essex so I cannot recommend any stores I'm
afraid.
>
> Kindest regards,
> Tom Jolly.
>   -----Original Message-----
>   From: themodelcatalogue@...
> [mailto:themodelcatalogue@...]On Behalf Of
redhandmanc
>   Sent: 29 July 2006 16:57
>   To: themodelcatalogue@...
>   Subject: [themodelcatalogue] Model shops in Essex
>
>
>   Hi - Can anyone recommend any good stockists of plastic model
kits in
>   South Essex.
>
>   IN addition - I am fedup with the bad mouldings I get with
Revell -
>   anyone suggest the best manufacturer at reasonable prices -
mouldings
>   that are good quality please
>
>   thanks
>






________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 2
    Date: Mon Jul 31, 2006 7:30 pm
    From: "Tom Jolly" tom.jolly@...
Subject: Apologies are in order!


Dear Members,

For those of you who received an email containing some crude language
from an ex-member of this discussion group I apologise. All the
related messages have been deleted from the post history so as not to
offend anyone else (it certainly shocked and offended me).

For the record I have an onerous responsibility as moderator of the
group to ensure that the content of the group is open, polite,
responsible, balanced, non-confrontational and constructive. In
addition, if anyone has an opinion it goes without saying that it must
be backed up with logical reasoning, particularly if it is negative in
nature. If someone has an opinion that a kit is rubbish, that is fine
but do explain why it is considered a pile of junk!

Why? Quite simply because it is the right thing to do, but also
because I don't want to be sued: as moderator and owner of the group
it is me they will come after if anyone writes anything defamatory or
libellous, not the author of the post.

Clearly the content of the gentleman's initial email was lacking
openness (it had no name) and it was mildly confrontational
(propositioning a negative opinion about a reputable name in the
business without backing it up with reasoning).

I tried to craft a response that communicated this message in a polite
and respectful manner. Clearly it was not interpreted in that way and
for that I am truly sorry: it is not in my nature to seek out
confrontation.

I don't think I wrote anything condescending and certainly nothing was
written to justify such an aggressive response. However if I did
perhaps someone will be kind enough to let me know.

You can either post direct to the group or email me directly
(tom<atsign>themodelcatalogue.com)

We never stop learning and if I need to adjust my approach in these
matters I will do so.

Kindest regards,

Tom Jolly.





________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________

Message: 3
    Date: Mon Jul 31, 2006 9:29 pm
    From: "Jim Brokaw" jabrokaw2@...
Subject: Re: Apologies are in order!


Apologies may be in order, Tom, but certainly not from
you.  Having shouldered a similar burden, it seems to
me you're doing a fine job.
Carry on,
Jim Brokaw

--- Tom Jolly <tom.jolly@...> wrote:

> Dear Members,
>
> For those of you who received an email containing
> some crude language
> from an ex-member of this discussion group I
> apologise. All the
> related messages have been deleted from the post
> history so as not to
> offend anyone else (it certainly shocked and
> offended me).
>
> For the record I have an onerous responsibility as
> moderator of the
> group to ensure that the content of the group is
> open, polite,
> responsible, balanced, non-confrontational and
> constructive. In
> addition, if anyone has an opinion it goes without
> saying that it must
> be backed up with logical reasoning, particularly if
> it is negative in
> nature. If someone has an opinion that a kit is
> rubbish, that is fine
> but do explain why it is considered a pile of junk!
>
> Why? Quite simply because it is the right thing to
> do, but also
> because I don't want to be sued: as moderator and
> owner of the group
> it is me they will come after if anyone writes
> anything defamatory or
> libellous, not the author of the post.
>
> Clearly the content of the gentleman's initial email
> was lacking
> openness (it had no name) and it was mildly
> confrontational
> (propositioning a negative opinion about a reputable
> name in the
> business without backing it up with reasoning).
>
> I tried to craft a response that communicated this
> message in a polite
> and respectful manner. Clearly it was not
> interpreted in that way and
> for that I am truly sorry: it is not in my nature to
> seek out
> confrontation.
>
> I don't think I wrote anything condescending and
> certainly nothing was
> written to justify such an aggressive response.
> However if I did
> perhaps someone will be kind enough to let me know.
>
> You can either post direct to the group or email me
> directly
> (tom<atsign>themodelcatalogue.com)
>
> We never stop learning and if I need to adjust my
> approach in these
> matters I will do so.
>
> Kindest regards,
>
> Tom Jolly.
>
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com


________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________



------------------------------------------------------------------------
Yahoo! Groups Links




------------------------------------------------------------------------

Apologies may be in order, Tom, but certainly not from
you.  Having shouldered a similar burden, it seems to
me you're doing a fine job.
Carry on,
Jim Brokaw

--- Tom Jolly <tom.jolly@...> wrote:

> Dear Members,
>
> For those of you who received an email containing
> some crude language
> from an ex-member of this discussion group I
> apologise. All the
> related messages have been deleted from the post
> history so as not to
> offend anyone else (it certainly shocked and
> offended me).
>
> For the record I have an onerous responsibility as
> moderator of the
> group to ensure that the content of the group is
> open, polite,
> responsible, balanced, non-confrontational and
> constructive. In
> addition, if anyone has an opinion it goes without
> saying that it must
> be backed up with logical reasoning, particularly if
> it is negative in
> nature. If someone has an opinion that a kit is
> rubbish, that is fine
> but do explain why it is considered a pile of junk!
>
> Why? Quite simply because it is the right thing to
> do, but also
> because I don't want to be sued: as moderator and
> owner of the group
> it is me they will come after if anyone writes
> anything defamatory or
> libellous, not the author of the post.
>
> Clearly the content of the gentleman's initial email
> was lacking
> openness (it had no name) and it was mildly
> confrontational
> (propositioning a negative opinion about a reputable
> name in the
> business without backing it up with reasoning).
>
> I tried to craft a response that communicated this
> message in a polite
> and respectful manner. Clearly it was not
> interpreted in that way and
> for that I am truly sorry: it is not in my nature to
> seek out
> confrontation.
>
> I don't think I wrote anything condescending and
> certainly nothing was
> written to justify such an aggressive response.
> However if I did
> perhaps someone will be kind enough to let me know.
>
> You can either post direct to the group or email me
> directly
> (tom<atsign>themodelcatalogue.com)
>
> We never stop learning and if I need to adjust my
> approach in these
> matters I will do so.
>
> Kindest regards,
>
> Tom Jolly.
>
>
>
>


__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

Dear Members,

For those of you who received an email containing some crude language
from an ex-member of this discussion group I apologise. All the
related messages have been deleted from the post history so as not to
offend anyone else (it certainly shocked and offended me).

For the record I have an onerous responsibility as moderator of the
group to ensure that the content of the group is open, polite,
responsible, balanced, non-confrontational and constructive. In
addition, if anyone has an opinion it goes without saying that it must
be backed up with logical reasoning, particularly if it is negative in
nature. If someone has an opinion that a kit is rubbish, that is fine
but do explain why it is considered a pile of junk!

Why? Quite simply because it is the right thing to do, but also
because I don't want to be sued: as moderator and owner of the group
it is me they will come after if anyone writes anything defamatory or
libellous, not the author of the post.

Clearly the content of the gentleman's initial email was lacking
openness (it had no name) and it was mildly confrontational
(propositioning a negative opinion about a reputable name in the
business without backing it up with reasoning).

I tried to craft a response that communicated this message in a polite
and respectful manner. Clearly it was not interpreted in that way and
for that I am truly sorry: it is not in my nature to seek out
confrontation.

I don't think I wrote anything condescending and certainly nothing was
written to justify such an aggressive response. However if I did
perhaps someone will be kind enough to let me know.

You can either post direct to the group or email me directly
(tom<atsign>themodelcatalogue.com)

We never stop learning and if I need to adjust my approach in these
matters I will do so.

Kindest regards,

Tom Jolly.

-----Original Message-----
From: themodelcatalogue@... [mailto:themodelcatalogue@...]On Behalf Of Eddie Cottington
Sent: 25 June 2006 17:15
To: themodelcatalogue@...
Subject: [themodelcatalogue] Re: Quick tip.

  I have found that, now stuff has settled down, there is a slight
differenc in finish, which as I discovered can be, quite
literally "Glossed over"!! No effects on the subtrate (Vac-form,
resin and high density poly), very soft, so any sanding/filing has
to be done with care, can only realy say leave for 24 hours to go
off, as I used recomended time (20 mins!!) before hitting it with
the sandpaper, primer etc. The aircraft in question is a 1/96th Frog
Comet 4, being converted to Canopus. BTW, Elliot, where, in the UK
could I get some of that structural gel? I'm always keen to
experiment with my models......



--- In themodelcatalogue@..., "Elliott" <elliott@e...>
wrote:
>
> I personally use any of the structural gels intended for making
oil
> like marks on canvas or as its more known, Impasto.
>
> My favorites have to be Golden's High Solid Gel, Extra Heavy Gel,
> Liquitex Light Modelling Paste and Lascaux Structura.  I use these
as
> fillers for large pieces (such as resin or vinyl models) where an
> epoxy putty would either be a waste of time and effort (and more
> importantly, money), or where it may be unlikely to stick (i.e.
> vinyl).
>
> It helps to roughen the surface a little for these types of things
> because they are much wetter than epoxy.  I have also had great
fun
> mixing my own putties when necessary out of things like Marble
> Powder, Whiting, Wall Fillers (Spackle to those in the US) and
have
> even made out out of hair gel!  Artist's Gesso is very similar but
> finer and not as thick.  All can be suitably sanded to smooth with
> various W/D paper or a Dremel.
>
> Kindest regards
>
> Elliott
>
>
> --- In themodelcatalogue@..., "Tom Jolly"
> <tom.jolly@t...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Eddie,
> > I agree, Milliput is too good a product to use on large areas. I
> think I'll
> > get some myself and give it a test. How does the Polyfilla react
to
> sanding?
> > Is there enough resistance to avoid over-sanding? What scale and
> model did
> > you use the polyfilla on? How did it look when you painted over?
> Could you
> > see a seam between the plastic and the Polyfilla? Questions,
> > questions...sorry!
> > Tom.
> >   -----Original Message-----
> >   From: themodelcatalogue@...
> > [mailto:themodelcatalogue@...]On Behalf Of Eddie
> Cottington
> >   Sent: 19 June 2006 20:04
> >   To: themodelcatalogue@...
> >   Subject: [themodelcatalogue] Quick tip.
> >
> >
> >        For large jobs, or those who dont like Miliput, Polyfila
> quick
> >   drying is fantastic!!
> >
>

-----Original Message-----
From: themodelcatalogue@... [mailto:themodelcatalogue@...]On Behalf Of Elliott
Sent: 20 June 2006 12:33
To: themodelcatalogue@...
Subject: [themodelcatalogue] Re: Welcome...

Hi Brian, welcome to the group.  I feel I've been a bit tardy with my
reply, but although I'm signed up for emails, I never received this one
for some reason, so I'll blame the computer and write something now :)

I have honestly never tried that many airbrushes outside the Badger
range, of which I have about 10 (1 x 2020, 1x 155, 1x360, 1x175, 2x350,
2x200-3, 2x250) and a couple of others, noteably an Aztek A4709, a
Passche mini spray gun, a larger spray gun (HVLP) from unknown manf.
and a couple of testors 350 variants which made me buy the Badger
version.

If there is something in particular you're looking for, please drop a
message in the group, I'm sure we can point you to somewhere or answer
it ourselves.  I like a couple of the airbrushing guide books (I have a
little library of miniature painting books that I use, which include
some airbrush ones too) probably the best of which are (these are for
UK Amazon because that's where I live and ordered from, but search for
the # or name in any other Amazon and it'll come up usually anyway, in
fact, many older books that you can't get in other countries are still
available in the US for some reason [some Verlinden stuff for example]:

Airbrush: The Complete Studio Handbook: Bk. 1 -
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0823001695/qid=1150802121/sr=8-
2/ref=pd_ka_2/202-9243420-4083853

(easiest to read and follow) Air Brush Painting Techniques (Compendium
Modelling Manuals)  -
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/1902579224/qid=1150802121/sr=8-
5/ref=pd_ka_5/202-9243420-4083853

The Big Book of Airbrush: Basic Techniques and Materials -
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0823001644/qid=1150802121/sr=8-
3/ref=pd_ka_3/202-9243420-4083853

Most of them aren't strictly for models, but there are some good ones
for models out there if you can get hold of them, I'll see if I can
round some up.  Also consider checking those sites that deal with
vinyl, resin and in particular Gundam models; these people usually
always paint with an airbrush (I like Codys Coop and Heavy Armour
Studio's tutorials for showing friends who have never used an airbrush).

The best advice I can probably give you is if you haven't, buy a
compressor; these are the key to the whole thing.  The air cans only
last so long before they start to really suck with their flow (pressure
drops off dramatically near the end of the can), or try something like
a diving bottle and a big compressor (which you can also use for the
house but they are waaay to noisy to use in a hobby room).  I have a
few myself (back when I had no idea what I was doing and so ordered the
cheapest, then tried a dear one with HUGE tank, then a tankless, then
eventually, actually decided to read some of the stuff on the 'net and
buy a good one) but I only use a CP400 Silent Compressor now (because
it can take two brushes easily) which is sort of like the Badger
Million-Air 480-1 in appearance.

Then, if you aren't really going to use if for anything terribly
intricate or say only for undercoating (to save money on spraycans) I'd
get an external mix brush, like the 350 because they are easier to
clean and sometimes the 250 (all Brushes are 'Badger' if I drop names
because thats where my experience lies; I'm sure Tom can recommend a
Revell that is of similar or better quality) clogs up easily or doesn't
spray well with thicker liquids (I undercoat in Daler Rowney System3,
one of THE thickest acrylics ever known to man).  The 350 sprays
without problem, as does the Passche mini gun (I bought off Ebay
because no one seemed to sell mini spray guns and I wanted a wider
spray for coating resin and vinyl 1:6 models).

On a sidenote - I'll tell you one thing Tom, if you started stocking
attachments for Badger brushes, I bet people would be very glad.  I can
only ever find Passche (I had to mix and match in the end to get a dual
brush setup going)

I hope that ramble is of some use; but as I say, if you have any
specific questions, please let us know on the group and I'm sure we can
find something or direct you to a book or website or even recreate it
with an airbrush and video camera and upload it somewhere.

Kindest regards

Elliott


--- In themodelcatalogue@..., "Tom Jolly"
<tom.jolly@t...> wrote:
>
> We have a new member! A hearty welcome to 'brian6190', a modeller who
> is particularly interested in learning more about airbrushing. Can
> anyone provide some good web sites or books where good techniques can
> be learnt?
> Tom.
>

 -----Original Message-----
From: themodelcatalogue@... [mailto:themodelcatalogue@...]On Behalf Of Elliott Saunders
Sent: 20 June 2006 12:01
To: themodelcatalogue@...
Subject: Re: [themodelcatalogue] I need your opinions...

Hi Tom

I found the site to be well designed, easy to navigate (because of the new
structural feel that what you see is everything available at the time of the
order), the cart is easier to see too on the top right and all the menu's
are very simple, which not only makes it more comfortable to me personally,
but gives the site a form of unique ellegance IMO.  I was a professional web
designer and IT professional before my illness made me stop working, if that
counts for anything.

Elliott


----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Jolly" <tom.jolly@...>
To: <themodelcatalogue@...>
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 7:53 AM
Subject: [themodelcatalogue] I need your opinions...


Hello all,

If you are regular visitor to the store (www.themodelcatalogue.com)
you will notice that quite a few changes have taken place on the
design-side recently. Although the actual content has not changed much
(yet) the look and feel of the home page and catalog pages has changed
quite a lot.
Whenever one makes changes there is always this nagging doubt that
even though I think it is an improvement, my customers & visitors
won't agree!
Therefore can you all do me a fantastic favour and have a look at the
new store if you haven't already done so and let me know what you
think? I have put a few questions below to guide you in your responses:

1. Is the site easy to navigate: can you find the right pages and
products easily?
2. Is the home page initially welcoming, informative and give a
professional trustworthy image to you as a visitor?
3. What would you like to see improved?

I look forward to hearing from you all. If you want to post your
feedback outside of the discussion group, please feel free to use the
store's 'Contact Us' form: http://www.themodelcatalogue.com/cgi-
bin/mf000001.pl?ACTION=SHOWFORM

Many thanks in advance,

Tom.

Hi Eddie

I tend to order mine from any of the 'good' online art stores; such as
Greatart http://www.greatart.co.uk, Jacksons http://www.jacksonsart.com/ or
the Society for All Artists http://www.saa.co.uk who all do good prices on
paints, and more importantly the texture gels (Greatart definitely and maybe
Jacksons probably have the most in terms of choice).  Once dry it is easily
sanded down and can be painted over with any paint.

I also tried Mr Colour's Mr Filler the other day and was impressed.  Its
slightly firmer than Squadron/Testors/Humbrol polyester putties (the ones
that smell rank and are in a little one-part tube).  Also, if you have a
vast area to fill I find polyester body putty intended for cars is a good
bet since it doesn't shrink when drying, but it is more expensive than
others if bought from local car stores, so I tend to buy mine from CPC
www.cpc.co.uk.

I have a variety of filler powders, used for when I cast with Hirst Arts for
making wargaming terrain (www.hirstarts.com) so I tend to make substitute
putties out of the filler powders and liquid epoxy for very large filling
requirements (such as perhaps filling out a 1:6 vinyl model if I've run out
of plaster).  CFS (http://www.cfsnet.co.uk/acatalog/) do very cheap 'water
thin' epoxies intended for covering surfboards and boats (which can also be
used for making water effects if you make terrain or gaming tables or
diorama/vignette bases for your finished pieces).

Acrylic sealant is also a good filler.  I tend to use 151 because its cheap
at CPC, but so long as its acrylic sealant (and NOT silicone, which is cured
by acetic acid [vinegar essentially] and makes the model stink to high
Heaven) it works fine on any plastic, vinyl or resin.

HTH

Elliott

----- Original Message -----
From: <themodelcatalogue@...>
To: <themodelcatalogue@...>
Sent: Monday, June 26, 2006 12:08 PM
Subject: [themodelcatalogue] Digest Number 34


> There is 1 message in this issue.
>
> Topics in this digest:
>
>    1.  Re: Quick tip.
>          From: "Eddie Cottington" big_yello2002@...
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
> Message: 1
>    Date: Sun Jun 25, 2006 5:15 pm
>    From: "Eddie Cottington" big_yello2002@...
> Subject: Re: Quick tip.
>
>
>   I have found that, now stuff has settled down, there is a slight
> differenc in finish, which as I discovered can be, quite
> literally "Glossed over"!! No effects on the subtrate (Vac-form,
> resin and high density poly), very soft, so any sanding/filing has
> to be done with care, can only realy say leave for 24 hours to go
> off, as I used recomended time (20 mins!!) before hitting it with
> the sandpaper, primer etc. The aircraft in question is a 1/96th Frog
> Comet 4, being converted to Canopus. BTW, Elliot, where, in the UK
> could I get some of that structural gel? I'm always keen to
> experiment with my models......
>
>
>
> --- In themodelcatalogue@..., "Elliott" <elliott@e...>
> wrote:
> >
> > I personally use any of the structural gels intended for making
> oil
> > like marks on canvas or as its more known, Impasto.
> >
> > My favorites have to be Golden's High Solid Gel, Extra Heavy Gel,
> > Liquitex Light Modelling Paste and Lascaux Structura.  I use these
> as
> > fillers for large pieces (such as resin or vinyl models) where an
> > epoxy putty would either be a waste of time and effort (and more
> > importantly, money), or where it may be unlikely to stick (i.e.
> > vinyl).
> >
> > It helps to roughen the surface a little for these types of things
> > because they are much wetter than epoxy.  I have also had great
> fun
> > mixing my own putties when necessary out of things like Marble
> > Powder, Whiting, Wall Fillers (Spackle to those in the US) and
> have
> > even made out out of hair gel!  Artist's Gesso is very similar but
> > finer and not as thick.  All can be suitably sanded to smooth with
> > various W/D paper or a Dremel.
> >
> > Kindest regards
> >
> > Elliott
> >
> >
> > --- In themodelcatalogue@..., "Tom Jolly"
> > <tom.jolly@t...> wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Eddie,
> > > I agree, Milliput is too good a product to use on large areas. I
> > think I'll
> > > get some myself and give it a test. How does the Polyfilla react
> to
> > sanding?
> > > Is there enough resistance to avoid over-sanding? What scale and
> > model did
> > > you use the polyfilla on? How did it look when you painted over?
> > Could you
> > > see a seam between the plastic and the Polyfilla? Questions,
> > > questions...sorry!
> > > Tom.
> > >   -----Original Message-----
> > >   From: themodelcatalogue@...
> > > [mailto:themodelcatalogue@...]On Behalf Of Eddie
> > Cottington
> > >   Sent: 19 June 2006 20:04
> > >   To: themodelcatalogue@...
> > >   Subject: [themodelcatalogue] Quick tip.
> > >
> > >
> > >        For large jobs, or those who dont like Miliput, Polyfila
> > quick
> > >   drying is fantastic!!
> > >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> ________________________________________________________________________
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>

I have found that, now stuff has settled down, there is a slight
differenc in finish, which as I discovered can be, quite
literally "Glossed over"!! No effects on the subtrate (Vac-form,
resin and high density poly), very soft, so any sanding/filing has
to be done with care, can only realy say leave for 24 hours to go
off, as I used recomended time (20 mins!!) before hitting it with
the sandpaper, primer etc. The aircraft in question is a 1/96th Frog
Comet 4, being converted to Canopus. BTW, Elliot, where, in the UK
could I get some of that structural gel? I'm always keen to
experiment with my models......



--- In themodelcatalogue@..., "Elliott" <elliott@e...>
wrote:
>
> I personally use any of the structural gels intended for making
oil
> like marks on canvas or as its more known, Impasto.
>
> My favorites have to be Golden's High Solid Gel, Extra Heavy Gel,
> Liquitex Light Modelling Paste and Lascaux Structura.  I use these
as
> fillers for large pieces (such as resin or vinyl models) where an
> epoxy putty would either be a waste of time and effort (and more
> importantly, money), or where it may be unlikely to stick (i.e.
> vinyl).
>
> It helps to roughen the surface a little for these types of things
> because they are much wetter than epoxy.  I have also had great
fun
> mixing my own putties when necessary out of things like Marble
> Powder, Whiting, Wall Fillers (Spackle to those in the US) and
have
> even made out out of hair gel!  Artist's Gesso is very similar but
> finer and not as thick.  All can be suitably sanded to smooth with
> various W/D paper or a Dremel.
>
> Kindest regards
>
> Elliott
>
>
> --- In themodelcatalogue@..., "Tom Jolly"
> <tom.jolly@t...> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Eddie,
> > I agree, Milliput is too good a product to use on large areas. I
> think I'll
> > get some myself and give it a test. How does the Polyfilla react
to
> sanding?
> > Is there enough resistance to avoid over-sanding? What scale and
> model did
> > you use the polyfilla on? How did it look when you painted over?
> Could you
> > see a seam between the plastic and the Polyfilla? Questions,
> > questions...sorry!
> > Tom.
> >   -----Original Message-----
> >   From: themodelcatalogue@...
> > [mailto:themodelcatalogue@...]On Behalf Of Eddie
> Cottington
> >   Sent: 19 June 2006 20:04
> >   To: themodelcatalogue@...
> >   Subject: [themodelcatalogue] Quick tip.
> >
> >
> >        For large jobs, or those who dont like Miliput, Polyfila
> quick
> >   drying is fantastic!!
> >
>

I personally use any of the structural gels intended for making oil
like marks on canvas or as its more known, Impasto.

My favorites have to be Golden's High Solid Gel, Extra Heavy Gel,
Liquitex Light Modelling Paste and Lascaux Structura.  I use these as
fillers for large pieces (such as resin or vinyl models) where an
epoxy putty would either be a waste of time and effort (and more
importantly, money), or where it may be unlikely to stick (i.e.
vinyl).

It helps to roughen the surface a little for these types of things
because they are much wetter than epoxy.  I have also had great fun
mixing my own putties when necessary out of things like Marble
Powder, Whiting, Wall Fillers (Spackle to those in the US) and have
even made out out of hair gel!  Artist's Gesso is very similar but
finer and not as thick.  All can be suitably sanded to smooth with
various W/D paper or a Dremel.

Kindest regards

Elliott


--- In themodelcatalogue@..., "Tom Jolly"
<tom.jolly@t...> wrote:
>
> Hi Eddie,
> I agree, Milliput is too good a product to use on large areas. I
think I'll
> get some myself and give it a test. How does the Polyfilla react to
sanding?
> Is there enough resistance to avoid over-sanding? What scale and
model did
> you use the polyfilla on? How did it look when you painted over?
Could you
> see a seam between the plastic and the Polyfilla? Questions,
> questions...sorry!
> Tom.
>   -----Original Message-----
>   From: themodelcatalogue@...
> [mailto:themodelcatalogue@...]On Behalf Of Eddie
Cottington
>   Sent: 19 June 2006 20:04
>   To: themodelcatalogue@...
>   Subject: [themodelcatalogue] Quick tip.
>
>
>        For large jobs, or those who dont like Miliput, Polyfila
quick
>   drying is fantastic!!
>

Hi Brian, welcome to the group.  I feel I've been a bit tardy with my
reply, but although I'm signed up for emails, I never received this one
for some reason, so I'll blame the computer and write something now :)

I have honestly never tried that many airbrushes outside the Badger
range, of which I have about 10 (1 x 2020, 1x 155, 1x360, 1x175, 2x350,
2x200-3, 2x250) and a couple of others, noteably an Aztek A4709, a
Passche mini spray gun, a larger spray gun (HVLP) from unknown manf.
and a couple of testors 350 variants which made me buy the Badger
version.

If there is something in particular you're looking for, please drop a
message in the group, I'm sure we can point you to somewhere or answer
it ourselves.  I like a couple of the airbrushing guide books (I have a
little library of miniature painting books that I use, which include
some airbrush ones too) probably the best of which are (these are for
UK Amazon because that's where I live and ordered from, but search for
the # or name in any other Amazon and it'll come up usually anyway, in
fact, many older books that you can't get in other countries are still
available in the US for some reason [some Verlinden stuff for example]:

Airbrush: The Complete Studio Handbook: Bk. 1 -
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0823001695/qid=1150802121/sr=8-
2/ref=pd_ka_2/202-9243420-4083853

(easiest to read and follow) Air Brush Painting Techniques (Compendium
Modelling Manuals)  -
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/1902579224/qid=1150802121/sr=8-
5/ref=pd_ka_5/202-9243420-4083853

The Big Book of Airbrush: Basic Techniques and Materials -
http://www.amazon.co.uk/exec/obidos/ASIN/0823001644/qid=1150802121/sr=8-
3/ref=pd_ka_3/202-9243420-4083853

Most of them aren't strictly for models, but there are some good ones
for models out there if you can get hold of them, I'll see if I can
round some up.  Also consider checking those sites that deal with
vinyl, resin and in particular Gundam models; these people usually
always paint with an airbrush (I like Codys Coop and Heavy Armour
Studio's tutorials for showing friends who have never used an airbrush).

The best advice I can probably give you is if you haven't, buy a
compressor; these are the key to the whole thing.  The air cans only
last so long before they start to really suck with their flow (pressure
drops off dramatically near the end of the can), or try something like
a diving bottle and a big compressor (which you can also use for the
house but they are waaay to noisy to use in a hobby room).  I have a
few myself (back when I had no idea what I was doing and so ordered the
cheapest, then tried a dear one with HUGE tank, then a tankless, then
eventually, actually decided to read some of the stuff on the 'net and
buy a good one) but I only use a CP400 Silent Compressor now (because
it can take two brushes easily) which is sort of like the Badger
Million-Air 480-1 in appearance.

Then, if you aren't really going to use if for anything terribly
intricate or say only for undercoating (to save money on spraycans) I'd
get an external mix brush, like the 350 because they are easier to
clean and sometimes the 250 (all Brushes are 'Badger' if I drop names
because thats where my experience lies; I'm sure Tom can recommend a
Revell that is of similar or better quality) clogs up easily or doesn't
spray well with thicker liquids (I undercoat in Daler Rowney System3,
one of THE thickest acrylics ever known to man).  The 350 sprays
without problem, as does the Passche mini gun (I bought off Ebay
because no one seemed to sell mini spray guns and I wanted a wider
spray for coating resin and vinyl 1:6 models).

On a sidenote - I'll tell you one thing Tom, if you started stocking
attachments for Badger brushes, I bet people would be very glad.  I can
only ever find Passche (I had to mix and match in the end to get a dual
brush setup going)

I hope that ramble is of some use; but as I say, if you have any
specific questions, please let us know on the group and I'm sure we can
find something or direct you to a book or website or even recreate it
with an airbrush and video camera and upload it somewhere.

Kindest regards

Elliott


--- In themodelcatalogue@..., "Tom Jolly"
<tom.jolly@t...> wrote:
>
> We have a new member! A hearty welcome to 'brian6190', a modeller who
> is particularly interested in learning more about airbrushing. Can
> anyone provide some good web sites or books where good techniques can
> be learnt?
> Tom.
>

Hi Tom

I found the site to be well designed, easy to navigate (because of the new
structural feel that what you see is everything available at the time of the
order), the cart is easier to see too on the top right and all the menu's
are very simple, which not only makes it more comfortable to me personally,
but gives the site a form of unique ellegance IMO.  I was a professional web
designer and IT professional before my illness made me stop working, if that
counts for anything.

Elliott


----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Jolly" <tom.jolly@...>
To: <themodelcatalogue@...>
Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2006 7:53 AM
Subject: [themodelcatalogue] I need your opinions...


Hello all,

If you are regular visitor to the store (www.themodelcatalogue.com)
you will notice that quite a few changes have taken place on the
design-side recently. Although the actual content has not changed much
(yet) the look and feel of the home page and catalog pages has changed
quite a lot.
Whenever one makes changes there is always this nagging doubt that
even though I think it is an improvement, my customers & visitors
won't agree!
Therefore can you all do me a fantastic favour and have a look at the
new store if you haven't already done so and let me know what you
think? I have put a few questions below to guide you in your responses:

1. Is the site easy to navigate: can you find the right pages and
products easily?
2. Is the home page initially welcoming, informative and give a
professional trustworthy image to you as a visitor?
3. What would you like to see improved?

I look forward to hearing from you all. If you want to post your
feedback outside of the discussion group, please feel free to use the
store's 'Contact Us' form: http://www.themodelcatalogue.com/cgi-
bin/mf000001.pl?ACTION=SHOWFORM

Many thanks in advance,

Tom.

Hello all,

If you are regular visitor to the store (www.themodelcatalogue.com)
you will notice that quite a few changes have taken place on the
design-side recently. Although the actual content has not changed much
(yet) the look and feel of the home page and catalog pages has changed
quite a lot.
Whenever one makes changes there is always this nagging doubt that
even though I think it is an improvement, my customers & visitors
won't agree!
Therefore can you all do me a fantastic favour and have a look at the
new store if you haven't already done so and let me know what you
think? I have put a few questions below to guide you in your responses:

1. Is the site easy to navigate: can you find the right pages and
products easily?
2. Is the home page initially welcoming, informative and give a
professional trustworthy image to you as a visitor?
3. What would you like to see improved?

I look forward to hearing from you all. If you want to post your
feedback outside of the discussion group, please feel free to use the
store's 'Contact Us' form: http://www.themodelcatalogue.com/cgi-
bin/mf000001.pl?ACTION=SHOWFORM

Many thanks in advance,

Tom.

-----Original Message-----
From: themodelcatalogue@... [mailto:themodelcatalogue@...]On Behalf Of Eddie Cottington
Sent: 19 June 2006 20:04
To: themodelcatalogue@...
Subject: [themodelcatalogue] Quick tip.

     For large jobs, or those who dont like Miliput, Polyfila quick
drying is fantastic!!

For large jobs, or those who dont like Miliput, Polyfila quick
drying is fantastic!!

Hi all,
Details of Airfix and Revell new releases and links to them in the
catalogue have been posted on the Blog site.
Click on the link below to find out more...
http://www.themodelcatalogue.com/blog/blogger.html
Regards,
Tom.

Sorry, digital camera is not a lot of cop, decided to stop
functioning all together, and yes, the batteries are new and in the
right way round..... Hope the old analogue still works.....





--- In themodelcatalogue@..., "Tom Jolly"
<tom.jolly@t...> wrote:
>
> Eddie,
> have you figured out how to use your camera yet?
> I'm sure we'd all love to see some pics of the TSR2.
> I have some shamefully bad photos of the actual aircraft, so I'll
post them
> in a folder in the photo gallery.
> Tom.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: themodelcatalogue@...
> [mailto:themodelcatalogue@...]On Behalf Of Eddie
> Cottington
> Sent: 08 March 2006 11:23
> To: themodelcatalogue@...
> Subject: [themodelcatalogue] The worlds most eagerly awaited kit
> arrives! Hurrah, or so it may seem....
>
>
> Hello all, havent posted for a while, been V busy..
>     Picture the scene, been waiting for 17 months for an order to
> arrive, the posty has dropped a little red card through the letter
> box, with trepidation head to the post office and retrieve the
> precious package, home again. As the package is opened, HOORAY!!
> TSR.2!! Initial impression, WOW, AT LAST! Open box, white plastic,
> no more 3 gallon paint jobs (You know the ones, dark grey plastic
> showing through until the umpteenth coat), detail is fantastic
> (Except the obligatory airfix dining chair ejector seats..) Now for
> building. Fairly good start, 164 gone solid, new can has no
pigment,
> 3rd time lucky, all goes smoothly until the first bits start going
> together, erm, is this made of plastic or bakelite, liquid poly and
> poly cement wont touch the b****y stuff! Another small problem is
> THE WINGS DONT FIT!! never mind, out with the emery paper, hmmm,
> waited best part of a year and a half for this , they could have
got
> the bugger right... something missing from the painting
instructions
> is the flap detail, should have a dark finish for XR219, where they
> were not painted due to the blown flaps, and 27003 polished steel
> looks a lot better on the exhaust shroud than silver fox as the
> shroud is a steel/titanium alloy. If any one want photos (comedy or
> otherwise) of the build please feel free to e-mail me and I shall
> endevour to work out how the digital camera works!!
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yahoo! Groups Links
>