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3573Re: [bmw e28] Need assistance with Overheating

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  • david patterson
    May 3, 2005
      Hello Scott,

      One other thing on bleeding air out of the cooling system is run the engine at 2000RPM while
      opening the bleeder screw. You may just have a bad gauge possibly!


      scott Newe <newellsb@...> wrote:
      Hey Chris

      Right now it#8217;s just the gauge is saying it#8217;s over
      heating. It#8217;s always in the red. I am not losing any
      Coolant. I installed a new sensor and that didn#8217;t fix
      the problem. So I installed an aftermarket sensor and
      gauge and removed my thermostat and if I let the car
      idel for 5 minutes it says it puts the gauge in the
      red. I have opened the bleeder screw for 5 minutes
      and let the car run while putting more coolant in and
      all that comes out of there is liquid.

      When I did the spark plugs for my tune up they were in
      normal condition.

      I have a brand new cap on my coolant tank from bmw
      because that was the first thing I notice. When I
      squeeze the radiator hose when the car is cool to hot
      I can see the fluid spill back into the coolant tank.
      I know when the gauge says it is over heating you can
      grab the radiator hose and its hot but not know 120
      degree C.

      I was going to change the switches on my radiator for
      my aux fan but I am having a hard time finding the 2 I
      need. All the parts stores around here say I only
      have one. So I have to call the dealer up and see
      what they might be able to do for me.

      I am also going to try and flush the engine and
      radiator to make sure there is no build up. However I
      did that last year when I had the water pump changed.

      Its really strange.


      --- chris insalaco wrote:
      > Scott,
      > You say your car is overheating but
      > what are the symptoms? Is it just hot on the gauge
      > or is the coolant disappearing? On the coolant tank
      > make sure the screw on cap has its seal and the
      > pressure valve in it is working. If you get some
      > 5/16" or 8mm fuel line, two 5/16" by 1/4"npt hose
      > barbs, 1/4"npt T-fitting and a Schrader tire valve
      > with 1/4" npt to fit in line betwen the radiator and
      > the coolant tank. This way you can pressurize the
      > cooling system and check the coolant cap valve and
      > leak down of system pressure in general. A tire pump
      > and pencil pressure gauge work for this but you can
      > go deluxe and get a four way fitting instead of the
      > "T" and add a 30psi clock gauge.
      > EVEN EASIER. Pull your spark
      > plugs and check for that pretty, clean one (or two)
      > that have been steam cleaned by coolant. Some cars
      > with poor cooling system maintinence get rust scale
      > and corrosion stuck in the passages between the head
      > and the deck. New radiator could have rust scale
      > from old engine.CHECK your fan belt.
      > Squeeze the radiator upper hose with car
      > running and not. The difference should be obvious,
      > use a rag if hot.
      > Open bleed screw on thermostat housing.
      > Especially before hose squeeze test. If coolant only
      > comes out, rejoice. If air, steam and foam come out
      > try topping off the system and bleeding it again. I
      > did this for nine months on my bavaria and there was
      > more coolant (H2O) missing until one night it
      > expelled its liquid in three miles. The temp gauge
      > would flicker but that time it went full hot. Nine
      > miles, three fill ups. Good luck!
      > Chris 277k 83' 528e
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