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4051Re: [bmw e28] heat inquiry #2

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  • dave ruiz
    Dec 13, 2005
      I agree Ed. I think you are right! -Dave Ruiz



      If you plant poison ivy, you won't harvest strawberries. - William Stephens
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      >From: Ed MacVaugh <macvaugh@...>
      >Reply-To: bmwe28@...
      >To: bmwe28@...
      >Subject: Re: [bmw e28] heat inquiry #2
      >Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 23:04:26 -0500
      >
      >I don't agree.
      >
      >The hot at idle and none while underway are classic symptoms of the
      >heater valve on the firewall having a split in its diaphragm.
      >
      >Ed
      >
      >Blake Nancarrow wrote:
      >
      > >On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 19:35:49 -0800 (PST)
      > >Guy DiCesare <guydicesare2000@...> wrote:
      > >
      > > > My 88 535is has HOT heat while sitting still
      > > > which cools within seconds when I start driving. The
      > > > blower motor has made intermittent noise for years but
      > > > now the noise gets worse as I accelerate (but doesn't
      > > > seem to have any decrease in output though).
      > >
      > >Sounds like you have 2 problems!
      > >
      > >1. Thermostat? If the motor gets hot while you idle, then probably the
      > >thermostat is not opening or closing (whatever the case may be) properly.
      > >It should automatically regulate the flow of coolant through the
      > >radiator as needed. These little units are completely mechanical with
      > >bimetallic pieces. They "wear out" or the metal gets tired over time.
      > >It's a fairly easy DIY repair, but messy.
      > >
      > >You also need to check the main engine fan. As the clutch within the fan
      > >may not be working properly. But usually it's the opposite problem with
      > >the fan though: that the clutch seizes, so the fan always runs full
      > >blast, which makes the engine sound like a jet turbine! You can test
      > >this (with the engine OFF, of course) by spinning the main fan blades
      > >with your hand. It should not be very tight; neither, should the viscous
      > >coupling be completely free.
      > >
      > >Finally, you need to check the auxiliary fan and temperature sensors.
      > >But they usually only come into play in extremely hot situations, i.e.
      > >hot summer day, long highway drive, and then you slow down in
      > >stop-and-go traffic suddenly. Engines do not like that! All the heat is
      > >trapped in the motor. So the main fan with the assistance of the
      > >auxiliary are supposed to get rid of the excess heat. There are little
      > >electrical short circuit tests you can do, although I forget them off
      > >the top of my head.
      > >
      > >That the temp drops quickly suggests the water pump is OK and the flow
      > >through the cooling system is uninhibited and the radiator is not
      > >clogged.
      > >
      > >2. The cabin heater blower motor bushings or bearings wear out over time.
      > >It sounds like a squeaky hamster wheel for a while. Sooner or later the
      > >bearings will get so sloppy that the motor will shift and cage fans will
      > >start to rub against the shrouds. The extra friction may cause the motor
      > >to burn out.
      > >
      > >This is an awkward repair. But still definitely DIY. If you're inclined.
      > >
      > >cheers,
      > >Blake
      > >--
      > >Blake Nancarrow <blaken@...>
      > >(sent via Becky!)
      > >
      > >
      > >
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      > >
      > >
      > >
      > >
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      >

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