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528e acting up on start ups and on the expressway...

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  • purplehead2002
    Hi guys!, I just wanted to thank all of you for lending your insight on the matter. Here is some information for of you as it might help you later on. The
    Message 1 of 18 , Dec 5, 2005
      Hi guys!,

      I just wanted to thank all of you for lending your insight on
      the matter. Here is some information for of you as it might help
      you later on. The fuel filter was not the problem along with the
      fine mesh filter in the tank as I verified them. I looked for vacume
      (?) leaks on the intake rubber bellow and none. Hmmhhhhh, I
      thought???????
      Well come to find out, I took off the distributor cap and found
      that the contact towers were very dirty and pitted. The rotor on
      its tip was dirty too. I ended up cleaning the contact towers with
      a fine file along with the rotor. I put it all back together and
      the car did not start, actually it was now worse!
      My logic leads me to think that the spacing between the tip of
      the rotor and the 6 contact towers is now making the spark having to
      jump greater now after not having and carbon matter which did help
      either.
      The car does not start now but I know for sure that I have to
      buy a cap and rotor as what is currently on is very jaded and most
      likely the root of the problems that I was having.

      Sincerely and Thank you all,

      Joel T. Gonzalez
      San Antonio, TX.
    • graham_e28
      ... Hi Joel, I have a 1985 520i in the UK that seems to be playing similar games to your 528, although I have always had a delay when starting and was told by
      Message 2 of 18 , Dec 6, 2005
        --- In bmwe28@..., "purplehead2002"
        <purplehead2002@y...> wrote:
        > Hi guys!,
        >
        > I just wanted to thank all of you for lending your insight on
        > the matter. Here is some information for of you as it might help
        > you later on. The fuel filter was not the problem along with the
        > fine mesh filter in the tank as I verified them. I looked for vacume
        > (?) leaks on the intake rubber bellow and none. Hmmhhhhh, I
        > thought???????
        > Well come to find out, I took off the distributor cap and found
        > that the contact towers were very dirty and pitted. The rotor on
        > its tip was dirty too. I ended up cleaning the contact towers with
        > a fine file along with the rotor. I put it all back together and
        > the car did not start, actually it was now worse!
        > My logic leads me to think that the spacing between the tip of
        > the rotor and the 6 contact towers is now making the spark having to
        > jump greater now after not having and carbon matter which did help
        > either.
        > The car does not start now but I know for sure that I have to
        > buy a cap and rotor as what is currently on is very jaded and most
        > likely the root of the problems that I was having.
        >
        > Sincerely and Thank you all,
        >
        > Joel T. Gonzalez
        > San Antonio, TX.

        Hi Joel,
        I have a 1985 520i in the UK that seems to be playing similar games to
        your 528, although I have always had a delay when starting and was
        told by the main agent this was supposed to happen to allow the oil to
        be circulated around the bearings before the engine fired.... never
        thought any more about it.
        Can't get over the power loss problem though.... mine sticks at 2500
        rpm but seems fine below that. Have changed the distributor cap
        (thought it might be cracked and the vibrations at 2500 rpm were
        throwing the timing out) but couldn't get a rotor arm at the time. I
        shall now replace that as well and see if it makes any difference.
        Like you I have checked for vacuum leaks and all seems ok, and fuel
        pumps appear to check out. If all else fails the airflow meter is next
        .... but they are pricey. The 1985 520i has the early J Tronic ECU and
        I understand the number of sensors is limited and it was suggested
        that a sensor had gone down and the ECU was using mean figures , but
        had also gone into 'LOS' or 'Limp-Home' mode which stops you harming
        the engine by over-revving. It's so confusing, there seems to be a
        number of causes that could give the same symptoms. The diagnostic on
        the ECU said everything was fine...... goes to show how much they know!
        Let you know how I get on

        Best regards
        Graham Holland
      • Ron Kall
        Joel, Do you want my old cap and rotor, 1993 325iC, E30 with M20 engine. She ran fine before the new ones I installed when I did the water pump and t-belt. See
        Message 3 of 18 , Dec 11, 2005
          Joel,

          Do you want my old cap and rotor,
          1993 325iC, E30 with M20 engine.
          She ran fine before the new ones
          I installed when I did the water
          pump and t-belt. See if they will
          work by going to the sites and seeing
          the OEM part numbers?

          Ron

          --- purplehead2002 <purplehead2002@...> wrote:

          > Hi guys!,
          >
          > I just wanted to thank all of you for lending your insight on
          > the matter. Here is some information for of you as it might help
          > you later on. The fuel filter was not the problem along with the
          > fine mesh filter in the tank as I verified them. I looked for vacume
          > (?) leaks on the intake rubber bellow and none. Hmmhhhhh, I
          > thought???????
          > Well come to find out, I took off the distributor cap and found
          > that the contact towers were very dirty and pitted. The rotor on
          > its tip was dirty too. I ended up cleaning the contact towers with
          > a fine file along with the rotor. I put it all back together and
          > the car did not start, actually it was now worse!
          > My logic leads me to think that the spacing between the tip of
          > the rotor and the 6 contact towers is now making the spark having to
          > jump greater now after not having and carbon matter which did help
          > either.
          > The car does not start now but I know for sure that I have to
          > buy a cap and rotor as what is currently on is very jaded and most
          > likely the root of the problems that I was having.
          >
          > Sincerely and Thank you all,
          >
          > Joel T. Gonzalez
          > San Antonio, TX.
          >
          >
          >
          >


          Ron Kall
          Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730


          1986 528e
          1985 535i

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        • Guy DiCesare
          Hi all. My 88 535is has HOT heat while sitting still which cools within seconds when I start driving. The blower motor has made intermittent noise for years
          Message 4 of 18 , Dec 11, 2005
            Hi all. My 88 535is has HOT heat while sitting still
            which cools within seconds when I start driving. The
            blower motor has made intermittent noise for years but
            now the noise gets worse as I accelerate (but doesn't
            seem to have any decrease in output though). Weird
            problem, I know. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
            Thanks Guy

            --- Ron Kall <ronjkall@...> wrote:

            > Joel,
            >
            > Do you want my old cap and rotor,
            > 1993 325iC, E30 with M20 engine.
            > She ran fine before the new ones
            > I installed when I did the water
            > pump and t-belt. See if they will
            > work by going to the sites and seeing
            > the OEM part numbers?
            >
            > Ron
            >
            > --- purplehead2002 <purplehead2002@...> wrote:
            >
            > > Hi guys!,
            > >
            > > I just wanted to thank all of you for
            > lending your insight on
            > > the matter. Here is some information for of you
            > as it might help
            > > you later on. The fuel filter was not the problem
            > along with the
            > > fine mesh filter in the tank as I verified them.
            > I looked for vacume
            > > (?) leaks on the intake rubber bellow and none.
            > Hmmhhhhh, I
            > > thought???????
            > > Well come to find out, I took off the
            > distributor cap and found
            > > that the contact towers were very dirty and
            > pitted. The rotor on
            > > its tip was dirty too. I ended up cleaning the
            > contact towers with
            > > a fine file along with the rotor. I put it all
            > back together and
            > > the car did not start, actually it was now worse!
            >
            > > My logic leads me to think that the spacing
            > between the tip of
            > > the rotor and the 6 contact towers is now making
            > the spark having to
            > > jump greater now after not having and carbon
            > matter which did help
            > > either.
            > > The car does not start now but I know for
            > sure that I have to
            > > buy a cap and rotor as what is currently on is
            > very jaded and most
            > > likely the root of the problems that I was having.
            > >
            > > Sincerely and Thank you
            > all,
            > >
            > > Joel T. Gonzalez
            > > San Antonio, TX.
            > >
            > >
            > >
            > >
            >
            >
            > Ron Kall
            > Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730
            >
            >
            > 1986 528e
            > 1985 535i
            >
            > __________________________________________________
            > Do You Yahoo!?
            > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam
            > protection around
            > http://mail.yahoo.com
            >


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          • Blake Nancarrow
            On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 19:35:49 -0800 (PST) ... Sounds like you have 2 problems! 1. Thermostat? If the motor gets hot while you idle, then probably the thermostat
            Message 5 of 18 , Dec 11, 2005
              On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 19:35:49 -0800 (PST)
              Guy DiCesare <guydicesare2000@...> wrote:

              > My 88 535is has HOT heat while sitting still
              > which cools within seconds when I start driving. The
              > blower motor has made intermittent noise for years but
              > now the noise gets worse as I accelerate (but doesn't
              > seem to have any decrease in output though).

              Sounds like you have 2 problems!

              1. Thermostat? If the motor gets hot while you idle, then probably the
              thermostat is not opening or closing (whatever the case may be) properly.
              It should automatically regulate the flow of coolant through the
              radiator as needed. These little units are completely mechanical with
              bimetallic pieces. They "wear out" or the metal gets tired over time.
              It's a fairly easy DIY repair, but messy.

              You also need to check the main engine fan. As the clutch within the fan
              may not be working properly. But usually it's the opposite problem with
              the fan though: that the clutch seizes, so the fan always runs full
              blast, which makes the engine sound like a jet turbine! You can test
              this (with the engine OFF, of course) by spinning the main fan blades
              with your hand. It should not be very tight; neither, should the viscous
              coupling be completely free.

              Finally, you need to check the auxiliary fan and temperature sensors.
              But they usually only come into play in extremely hot situations, i.e.
              hot summer day, long highway drive, and then you slow down in
              stop-and-go traffic suddenly. Engines do not like that! All the heat is
              trapped in the motor. So the main fan with the assistance of the
              auxiliary are supposed to get rid of the excess heat. There are little
              electrical short circuit tests you can do, although I forget them off
              the top of my head.

              That the temp drops quickly suggests the water pump is OK and the flow
              through the cooling system is uninhibited and the radiator is not
              clogged.

              2. The cabin heater blower motor bushings or bearings wear out over time.
              It sounds like a squeaky hamster wheel for a while. Sooner or later the
              bearings will get so sloppy that the motor will shift and cage fans will
              start to rub against the shrouds. The extra friction may cause the motor
              to burn out.

              This is an awkward repair. But still definitely DIY. If you're inclined.

              cheers,
              Blake
              --
              Blake Nancarrow <blaken@...>
              (sent via Becky!)
            • Ed MacVaugh
              I don t agree. The hot at idle and none while underway are classic symptoms of the heater valve on the firewall having a split in its diaphragm. Ed ...
              Message 6 of 18 , Dec 11, 2005
                I don't agree.

                The hot at idle and none while underway are classic symptoms of the
                heater valve on the firewall having a split in its diaphragm.

                Ed

                Blake Nancarrow wrote:

                >On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 19:35:49 -0800 (PST)
                >Guy DiCesare <guydicesare2000@...> wrote:
                >
                > > My 88 535is has HOT heat while sitting still
                > > which cools within seconds when I start driving. The
                > > blower motor has made intermittent noise for years but
                > > now the noise gets worse as I accelerate (but doesn't
                > > seem to have any decrease in output though).
                >
                >Sounds like you have 2 problems!
                >
                >1. Thermostat? If the motor gets hot while you idle, then probably the
                >thermostat is not opening or closing (whatever the case may be) properly.
                >It should automatically regulate the flow of coolant through the
                >radiator as needed. These little units are completely mechanical with
                >bimetallic pieces. They "wear out" or the metal gets tired over time.
                >It's a fairly easy DIY repair, but messy.
                >
                >You also need to check the main engine fan. As the clutch within the fan
                >may not be working properly. But usually it's the opposite problem with
                >the fan though: that the clutch seizes, so the fan always runs full
                >blast, which makes the engine sound like a jet turbine! You can test
                >this (with the engine OFF, of course) by spinning the main fan blades
                >with your hand. It should not be very tight; neither, should the viscous
                >coupling be completely free.
                >
                >Finally, you need to check the auxiliary fan and temperature sensors.
                >But they usually only come into play in extremely hot situations, i.e.
                >hot summer day, long highway drive, and then you slow down in
                >stop-and-go traffic suddenly. Engines do not like that! All the heat is
                >trapped in the motor. So the main fan with the assistance of the
                >auxiliary are supposed to get rid of the excess heat. There are little
                >electrical short circuit tests you can do, although I forget them off
                >the top of my head.
                >
                >That the temp drops quickly suggests the water pump is OK and the flow
                >through the cooling system is uninhibited and the radiator is not
                >clogged.
                >
                >2. The cabin heater blower motor bushings or bearings wear out over time.
                >It sounds like a squeaky hamster wheel for a while. Sooner or later the
                >bearings will get so sloppy that the motor will shift and cage fans will
                >start to rub against the shrouds. The extra friction may cause the motor
                >to burn out.
                >
                >This is an awkward repair. But still definitely DIY. If you're inclined.
                >
                >cheers,
                >Blake
                >--
                >Blake Nancarrow <blaken@...>
                >(sent via Becky!)
                >
                >
                >
                >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                >bmwe28-unsubscribe@...
                >
                >
                >
                >
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                [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
              • Blake Nancarrow
                ... Ed, What does the heater value do exactly? Does it control coolant flow through the motor? Into the cabin transfer unit? Cheers, Blake Blake Nancarrow
                Message 7 of 18 , Dec 12, 2005
                  Quoting Ed MacVaugh <macvaugh@...>:

                  > I don't agree.
                  >
                  > The hot at idle and none while underway are classic symptoms of the
                  > heater valve on the firewall having a split in its diaphragm.

                  Ed,

                  What does the heater value do exactly? Does it control coolant flow
                  through the motor? Into the cabin transfer unit?

                  Cheers,
                  Blake

                  Blake Nancarrow blaken@...
                  Computer Ease http://computer-ease.com/

                  (sent via webmail while at Polar Bear/King St)
                • Joel T. Gonzalez
                  Hi Ron, That is kind of you and I will keep your offer in mind as currently I am waiting patiently by the mail box for a cap and rotor that I won on E-bay. If
                  Message 8 of 18 , Dec 12, 2005
                    Hi Ron,

                    That is kind of you and I will keep your offer in mind as currently I am waiting patiently by the mail box for a cap and rotor that I won on E-bay. If it turns out to be in the condition that it was stated to be and too the appropriate one for my car then all said and done. If not I will source through you.


                    Thank you,

                    Joel T. Gonzalez
                    San Antonio, TX.

                    Ron Kall <ronjkall@...> wrote:
                    Joel,

                    Do you want my old cap and rotor,
                    1993 325iC, E30 with M20 engine.
                    She ran fine before the new ones
                    I installed when I did the water
                    pump and t-belt. See if they will
                    work by going to the sites and seeing
                    the OEM part numbers?

                    Ron

                    --- purplehead2002 <purplehead2002@...> wrote:

                    > Hi guys!,
                    >
                    > I just wanted to thank all of you for lending your insight on
                    > the matter. Here is some information for of you as it might help
                    > you later on. The fuel filter was not the problem along with the
                    > fine mesh filter in the tank as I verified them. I looked for vacume
                    > (?) leaks on the intake rubber bellow and none. Hmmhhhhh, I
                    > thought???????
                    > Well come to find out, I took off the distributor cap and found
                    > that the contact towers were very dirty and pitted. The rotor on
                    > its tip was dirty too. I ended up cleaning the contact towers with
                    > a fine file along with the rotor. I put it all back together and
                    > the car did not start, actually it was now worse!
                    > My logic leads me to think that the spacing between the tip of
                    > the rotor and the 6 contact towers is now making the spark having to
                    > jump greater now after not having and carbon matter which did help
                    > either.
                    > The car does not start now but I know for sure that I have to
                    > buy a cap and rotor as what is currently on is very jaded and most
                    > likely the root of the problems that I was having.
                    >
                    > Sincerely and Thank you all,
                    >
                    > Joel T. Gonzalez
                    > San Antonio, TX.
                    >
                    >
                    >
                    >


                    Ron Kall
                    Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730


                    1986 528e
                    1985 535i

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                  • David Rodriguez
                    I have an 88 535is. One window (front passenger) has stopped working and all of the others are very slow. I checked on the price of new replacement motors and
                    Message 9 of 18 , Dec 12, 2005
                      I have an 88 535is. One window (front passenger) has
                      stopped working and all of the others are very slow.
                      I checked on the price of new replacement motors and
                      it is really high. Can you modify or replace the
                      motors with cheaper motors easily? Has anyone done
                      this or seen it done?

                      Thanks everyone,

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                    • Tom Ferretti
                      Hey, If I am not mistaken the same power window motors are on the 84 533i, I have a couple extra laying around, you pay the shipping and they are yours.
                      Message 10 of 18 , Dec 12, 2005
                        Hey, If I am not mistaken the same power window motors are on the 84 533i, I have a couple extra laying around, you pay the shipping and they are yours. Contact me at Tomfer1@...

                        David Rodriguez <daverodus@...> wrote: I have an 88 535is. One window (front passenger) has
                        stopped working and all of the others are very slow.
                        I checked on the price of new replacement motors and
                        it is really high. Can you modify or replace the
                        motors with cheaper motors easily? Has anyone done
                        this or seen it done?

                        Thanks everyone,

                        __________________________________________________
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                        [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                      • Ed MacVaugh
                        Coolant flow through the motor is a product of the water pump speed on BMW engines. Nothing else changes that flow. The thermostat controls that portion which
                        Message 11 of 18 , Dec 12, 2005
                          Coolant flow through the motor is a product of the water pump speed on
                          BMW engines. Nothing else changes that flow. The thermostat controls
                          that portion which is allowed to also flow through the radiator, and the
                          heater control valve controls that portion that is also allowed to flow
                          through the heater core inside the car.

                          The original post concerned the heat in the cabin being high at rest,
                          diminishing as the car speed increased. While the car speed was
                          increasing, engine speed was also, thus the conclusion that the heater
                          control valve had failed. More heat is transferred from slow moving
                          coolant than fast moving coolant.

                          Ed

                          Blake Nancarrow wrote:

                          >Quoting Ed MacVaugh <macvaugh@...>:
                          >
                          > > I don't agree.
                          > >
                          > > The hot at idle and none while underway are classic symptoms of the
                          > > heater valve on the firewall having a split in its diaphragm.
                          >
                          >Ed,
                          >
                          >What does the heater value do exactly? Does it control coolant flow
                          >through the motor? Into the cabin transfer unit?
                          >
                          >Cheers,
                          >Blake
                          >
                          >Blake Nancarrow blaken@...
                          >Computer Ease http://computer-ease.com/
                          >
                          >(sent via webmail while at Polar Bear/King St)
                          >
                          >
                          >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                          >bmwe28-unsubscribe@...
                          >
                          >
                          >
                          >
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                        • john Gieringer
                          Chances are your tracks could need new lubricating grease for the rear windows. This improved the speed of my rear windows in my 85 535i. It s possible the
                          Message 12 of 18 , Dec 12, 2005
                            Chances are your tracks could need new lubricating grease for the rear
                            windows. This improved the speed of my rear windows in my '85 535i. It's
                            possible the switch is defective, or wiring is no longer connected, in the
                            front door. I'd check that first! These motors can be costly.

                            -----Original Message-----
                            From: bmwe28@... [mailto:bmwe28@...] On Behalf
                            Of David Rodriguez
                            Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 11:32 AM
                            To: bmwe28@...
                            Subject: [bmw e28] power window motors

                            I have an 88 535is. One window (front passenger) has stopped working and
                            all of the others are very slow.
                            I checked on the price of new replacement motors and it is really high. Can
                            you modify or replace the motors with cheaper motors easily? Has anyone
                            done this or seen it done?

                            Thanks everyone,

                            __________________________________________________
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                          • Agent Midnight
                            I know the ones in my 1986 528e got slow to and I pull the door panels off(slowly) and covered the gear teeth with grease and they ran a LOT better. Over the
                            Message 13 of 18 , Dec 13, 2005
                              I know the ones in my 1986 528e got slow to and I pull the door panels
                              off(slowly) and covered the gear teeth with grease and they ran a LOT
                              better. Over the years every thing dried up in there and the gears became
                              more dark and dirty then lubricated.
                              -Dana

                              ----- Original Message -----
                              From: "john Gieringer" <jcgieri@...>
                              To: <bmwe28@...>
                              Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 23:44
                              Subject: RE: [bmw e28] power window motors


                              > Chances are your tracks could need new lubricating grease for the rear
                              > windows. This improved the speed of my rear windows in my '85 535i. It's
                              > possible the switch is defective, or wiring is no longer connected, in the
                              > front door. I'd check that first! These motors can be costly.
                              >
                              > -----Original Message-----
                              > From: bmwe28@... [mailto:bmwe28@...] On Behalf
                              > Of David Rodriguez
                              > Sent: Monday, December 12, 2005 11:32 AM
                              > To: bmwe28@...
                              > Subject: [bmw e28] power window motors
                              >
                              > I have an 88 535is. One window (front passenger) has stopped working and
                              > all of the others are very slow.
                              > I checked on the price of new replacement motors and it is really high.
                              > Can
                              > you modify or replace the motors with cheaper motors easily? Has anyone
                              > done this or seen it done?
                              >
                              > Thanks everyone,
                              >
                              > __________________________________________________
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                              > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
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                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
                              >
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                            • dave ruiz
                              I agree Ed. I think you are right! -Dave Ruiz If you plant poison ivy, you won t harvest strawberries. - William Stephens When I die, I want to die like my
                              Message 14 of 18 , Dec 13, 2005
                                I agree Ed. I think you are right! -Dave Ruiz



                                If you plant poison ivy, you won't harvest strawberries. - William Stephens
                                When I die, I want to die like my grandfather-- who died peacefully in
                                his sleep.
                                Not screaming like all the passengers in his car."
                                --Author Unknown





                                >From: Ed MacVaugh <macvaugh@...>
                                >Reply-To: bmwe28@...
                                >To: bmwe28@...
                                >Subject: Re: [bmw e28] heat inquiry #2
                                >Date: Sun, 11 Dec 2005 23:04:26 -0500
                                >
                                >I don't agree.
                                >
                                >The hot at idle and none while underway are classic symptoms of the
                                >heater valve on the firewall having a split in its diaphragm.
                                >
                                >Ed
                                >
                                >Blake Nancarrow wrote:
                                >
                                > >On Sun, 11 Dec 2005 19:35:49 -0800 (PST)
                                > >Guy DiCesare <guydicesare2000@...> wrote:
                                > >
                                > > > My 88 535is has HOT heat while sitting still
                                > > > which cools within seconds when I start driving. The
                                > > > blower motor has made intermittent noise for years but
                                > > > now the noise gets worse as I accelerate (but doesn't
                                > > > seem to have any decrease in output though).
                                > >
                                > >Sounds like you have 2 problems!
                                > >
                                > >1. Thermostat? If the motor gets hot while you idle, then probably the
                                > >thermostat is not opening or closing (whatever the case may be) properly.
                                > >It should automatically regulate the flow of coolant through the
                                > >radiator as needed. These little units are completely mechanical with
                                > >bimetallic pieces. They "wear out" or the metal gets tired over time.
                                > >It's a fairly easy DIY repair, but messy.
                                > >
                                > >You also need to check the main engine fan. As the clutch within the fan
                                > >may not be working properly. But usually it's the opposite problem with
                                > >the fan though: that the clutch seizes, so the fan always runs full
                                > >blast, which makes the engine sound like a jet turbine! You can test
                                > >this (with the engine OFF, of course) by spinning the main fan blades
                                > >with your hand. It should not be very tight; neither, should the viscous
                                > >coupling be completely free.
                                > >
                                > >Finally, you need to check the auxiliary fan and temperature sensors.
                                > >But they usually only come into play in extremely hot situations, i.e.
                                > >hot summer day, long highway drive, and then you slow down in
                                > >stop-and-go traffic suddenly. Engines do not like that! All the heat is
                                > >trapped in the motor. So the main fan with the assistance of the
                                > >auxiliary are supposed to get rid of the excess heat. There are little
                                > >electrical short circuit tests you can do, although I forget them off
                                > >the top of my head.
                                > >
                                > >That the temp drops quickly suggests the water pump is OK and the flow
                                > >through the cooling system is uninhibited and the radiator is not
                                > >clogged.
                                > >
                                > >2. The cabin heater blower motor bushings or bearings wear out over time.
                                > >It sounds like a squeaky hamster wheel for a while. Sooner or later the
                                > >bearings will get so sloppy that the motor will shift and cage fans will
                                > >start to rub against the shrouds. The extra friction may cause the motor
                                > >to burn out.
                                > >
                                > >This is an awkward repair. But still definitely DIY. If you're inclined.
                                > >
                                > >cheers,
                                > >Blake
                                > >--
                                > >Blake Nancarrow <blaken@...>
                                > >(sent via Becky!)
                                > >
                                > >
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                              • Guy DiCesare
                                Right! I revved the car at a standstill this morning and felt the heat fade away. this discounts the possibility of an improperly closing air vent. Thanks
                                Message 15 of 18 , Dec 15, 2005
                                  Right! I revved the car at a standstill this morning
                                  and felt the heat fade away. this discounts the
                                  possibility of an improperly closing air vent. Thanks
                                  much. Guy
                                  --- Ed MacVaugh <macvaugh@...> wrote:

                                  > Coolant flow through the motor is a product of the
                                  > water pump speed on
                                  > BMW engines. Nothing else changes that flow. The
                                  > thermostat controls
                                  > that portion which is allowed to also flow through
                                  > the radiator, and the
                                  > heater control valve controls that portion that is
                                  > also allowed to flow
                                  > through the heater core inside the car.
                                  >
                                  > The original post concerned the heat in the cabin
                                  > being high at rest,
                                  > diminishing as the car speed increased. While the
                                  > car speed was
                                  > increasing, engine speed was also, thus the
                                  > conclusion that the heater
                                  > control valve had failed. More heat is transferred
                                  > from slow moving
                                  > coolant than fast moving coolant.
                                  >
                                  > Ed
                                  >
                                  > Blake Nancarrow wrote:
                                  >
                                  > >Quoting Ed MacVaugh <macvaugh@...>:
                                  > >
                                  > > > I don't agree.
                                  > > >
                                  > > > The hot at idle and none while underway are
                                  > classic symptoms of the
                                  > > > heater valve on the firewall having a split in
                                  > its diaphragm.
                                  > >
                                  > >Ed,
                                  > >
                                  > >What does the heater value do exactly? Does it
                                  > control coolant flow
                                  > >through the motor? Into the cabin transfer unit?
                                  > >
                                  > >Cheers,
                                  > >Blake
                                  > >
                                  > >Blake Nancarrow blaken@...
                                  > >Computer Ease http://computer-ease.com/
                                  > >
                                  > >(sent via webmail while at Polar Bear/King St)
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                                  > >bmwe28-unsubscribe@...
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  > >
                                  >
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                                • Guy DiCesare
                                  re: heater valve with torn diaphragm: A repair kit is available on Ebay-it appears to contain a solenoid and a very tiny rubber gasket. Is the diaphragm an
                                  Message 16 of 18 , Dec 16, 2005
                                    re: heater valve with torn diaphragm: A repair kit is
                                    available on Ebay-it appears to contain a solenoid and
                                    a very tiny rubber gasket. Is the diaphragm an
                                    integral part of the solenoid? Thanks again for
                                    everything, Guy
                                    --- Guy DiCesare <guydicesare2000@...> wrote:

                                    > Right! I revved the car at a standstill this morning
                                    > and felt the heat fade away. this discounts the
                                    > possibility of an improperly closing air vent.
                                    > Thanks
                                    > much. Guy
                                    > --- Ed MacVaugh <macvaugh@...> wrote:
                                    >
                                    > > Coolant flow through the motor is a product of the
                                    > > water pump speed on
                                    > > BMW engines. Nothing else changes that flow. The
                                    > > thermostat controls
                                    > > that portion which is allowed to also flow through
                                    > > the radiator, and the
                                    > > heater control valve controls that portion that is
                                    > > also allowed to flow
                                    > > through the heater core inside the car.
                                    > >
                                    > > The original post concerned the heat in the cabin
                                    > > being high at rest,
                                    > > diminishing as the car speed increased. While the
                                    > > car speed was
                                    > > increasing, engine speed was also, thus the
                                    > > conclusion that the heater
                                    > > control valve had failed. More heat is transferred
                                    > > from slow moving
                                    > > coolant than fast moving coolant.
                                    > >
                                    > > Ed
                                    > >
                                    > > Blake Nancarrow wrote:
                                    > >
                                    > > >Quoting Ed MacVaugh <macvaugh@...>:
                                    > > >
                                    > > > > I don't agree.
                                    > > > >
                                    > > > > The hot at idle and none while underway are
                                    > > classic symptoms of the
                                    > > > > heater valve on the firewall having a split in
                                    > > its diaphragm.
                                    > > >
                                    > > >Ed,
                                    > > >
                                    > > >What does the heater value do exactly? Does it
                                    > > control coolant flow
                                    > > >through the motor? Into the cabin transfer unit?
                                    > > >
                                    > > >Cheers,
                                    > > >Blake
                                    > > >
                                    > > >Blake Nancarrow blaken@...
                                    > > >Computer Ease http://computer-ease.com/
                                    > > >
                                    > > >(sent via webmail while at Polar Bear/King St)
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                                    > > >bmwe28-unsubscribe@...
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > > >
                                    > >
                                    >
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                                    > -
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                                  • Ed MacVaugh
                                    This is the part here in the states. I have used the cheaper one successfully, but no one ever got fired for buying Bosch replacement parts.
                                    Message 17 of 18 , Dec 17, 2005
                                      This is the part here in the states. I have used the cheaper one
                                      successfully, but no one ever got fired for buying Bosch replacement parts.

                                      <http://catalog.eautopartscatalog.com/zygmunt/wizard.jsp?partner=zygmunt&clientid=www.bimmerparts.com&baseurl=http://www.bimmerparts.com/&cookieid=1OQ0KMD5Y1OQ0KMJKD&year=1988&make=BM&model=M5--001&category=R&part=Mono+Valve+Repair+Kit>

                                      Ed

                                      Guy DiCesare wrote:

                                      > re: heater valve with torn diaphragm: A repair kit is
                                      >available on Ebay-it appears to contain a solenoid and
                                      >a very tiny rubber gasket. Is the diaphragm an
                                      >integral part of the solenoid? Thanks again for
                                      >everything, Guy
                                      >--- Guy DiCesare <guydicesare2000@...> wrote:
                                      >
                                      > > Right! I revved the car at a standstill this morning
                                      > > and felt the heat fade away. this discounts the
                                      > > possibility of an improperly closing air vent.
                                      > > Thanks
                                      > > much. Guy
                                      > > --- Ed MacVaugh <macvaugh@...> wrote:
                                      > >
                                      > > > Coolant flow through the motor is a product of the
                                      > > > water pump speed on
                                      > > > BMW engines. Nothing else changes that flow. The
                                      > > > thermostat controls
                                      > > > that portion which is allowed to also flow through
                                      > > > the radiator, and the
                                      > > > heater control valve controls that portion that is
                                      > > > also allowed to flow
                                      > > > through the heater core inside the car.
                                      > > >
                                      > > > The original post concerned the heat in the cabin
                                      > > > being high at rest,
                                      > > > diminishing as the car speed increased. While the
                                      > > > car speed was
                                      > > > increasing, engine speed was also, thus the
                                      > > > conclusion that the heater
                                      > > > control valve had failed. More heat is transferred
                                      > > > from slow moving
                                      > > > coolant than fast moving coolant.
                                      > > >
                                      > > > Ed
                                      > > >
                                      > > > Blake Nancarrow wrote:
                                      > > >
                                      > > > >Quoting Ed MacVaugh <macvaugh@...>:
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > > > I don't agree.
                                      > > > > >
                                      > > > > > The hot at idle and none while underway are
                                      > > > classic symptoms of the
                                      > > > > > heater valve on the firewall having a split in
                                      > > > its diaphragm.
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >Ed,
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >What does the heater value do exactly? Does it
                                      > > > control coolant flow
                                      > > > >through the motor? Into the cabin transfer unit?
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >Cheers,
                                      > > > >Blake
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >Blake Nancarrow blaken@...
                                      > > > >Computer Ease http://computer-ease.com/
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >(sent via webmail while at Polar Bear/King St)
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:
                                      > > > >bmwe28-unsubscribe@...
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > > >
                                      > > >
                                      > >
                                      > >--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
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                                      > > > >
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                                      > > > >Checked by AVG Free Edition.
                                      > > > >Version: 7.1.371 / Virus Database: 267.13.13/198
                                      > > -
                                      > > > Release Date: 12/12/2005
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                                      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
                                    • Ed MacVaugh
                                      Here is a little on the procedure: these sites are
                                      Message 18 of 18 , Dec 17, 2005
                                        Here is a little on the procedure:

                                        <http://forums.mye28.com/e28/messages/170345.html>

                                        <http://bimmer.roadfly.com/bmw/forums/e28/7259676-1.html>

                                        these sites are also great additional resources. . . .

                                        Ed

                                        Guy DiCesare wrote:

                                        > re: heater valve with torn diaphragm: A repair kit is
                                        >available on Ebay-it appears to contain a solenoid and
                                        >a very tiny rubber gasket. Is the diaphragm an
                                        >integral part of the solenoid? Thanks again for
                                        >everything, Guy
                                        >
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