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RE: [bmw e28] Re: 533i Overheating problems

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  • Blake Nancarrow
    ... to figure it out..thanks harvey, I think he s talking about the clutch fan on the motor. The centre of the engine fan is a viscous coupling. It is
    Message 1 of 5 , Jun 19, 2006
      On Monday 19 June 2006 8:36 AM, bimmernutjob wrote:
      > I'm not quite sure what that is.....but I will try
      to figure it out..thanks harvey,

      I think he's talking about the "clutch fan" on the
      motor. The centre of the engine fan is a viscous
      coupling. It is designed to "lock" when heated up and
      "unlock" when cool.

      They tend to seize with age in which case it runs
      continuously. You can tell because the car sounds
      like a jet! In that situation though, I would think
      the engine would not get overly hot since the fan is
      running 100% of the time.

      I suppose if the viscous coupling does the opposite,
      fails to spin the fan ever, then that would contribute
      to overheating.

      So, if you say you have a parts car, try swapping the
      main engine fan (and its coupling).

      regards
      Blake
    • bimmernutjob
      coupling on clutch fan, yes that makes sense. No, there is no problems with the clutch fan assembly...... I m leaning towards new coolant, radiator life,
      Message 2 of 5 , Jun 19, 2006
        coupling on clutch fan, yes that makes sense. No, there is no problems with the clutch
        fan assembly...... I'm leaning towards new coolant, radiator life, etc....short of replacing
        radiator, I plan to install either the 71, or 75 degree thermostat...it's a fix until the real
        culprit is revealed. much thanks "otto"


        --- In bmwe28@..., Blake Nancarrow <blaken@c...> wrote:
        >
        > On Monday 19 June 2006 8:36 AM, bimmernutjob wrote:
        > > I'm not quite sure what that is.....but I will try
        > to figure it out..thanks harvey,
        >
        > I think he's talking about the "clutch fan" on the
        > motor. The centre of the engine fan is a viscous
        > coupling. It is designed to "lock" when heated up and
        > "unlock" when cool.
        >
        > They tend to seize with age in which case it runs
        > continuously. You can tell because the car sounds
        > like a jet! In that situation though, I would think
        > the engine would not get overly hot since the fan is
        > running 100% of the time.
        >
        > I suppose if the viscous coupling does the opposite,
        > fails to spin the fan ever, then that would contribute
        > to overheating.
        >
        > So, if you say you have a parts car, try swapping the
        > main engine fan (and its coupling).
        >
        > regards
        > Blake
        >
      • Ed MacVaugh
        Otto, I don t see why the solution of a different temperature thermostat keeps showing up as an alternative. All that thermostat does is determine at what
        Message 3 of 5 , Jun 19, 2006
          Otto,

          I don't see why the "solution" of a different temperature thermostat
          keeps showing up as an alternative.

          All that thermostat does is determine at what coolant temperature water
          begins flowing through the radiator.

          On hot days, any working thermostat will open shortly after start-up and
          remain open until long after shutdown, without regard to its rating.

          Find another place to spend your money, unless yours is stuck partially
          or fully closed, leave it be.

          Ed

          bimmernutjob wrote:

          I plan to install either the 71, or 75 degree
          > thermostat...it's a fix until the real
          > culprit is revealed.
        • bimmernutjob
          Ed, Yes, you are right, changing the thermostat will not solve the problem. (A) Larry from TX mentioned using correct BMW coolant ( non corrosive ). My car
          Message 4 of 5 , Jun 19, 2006
            Ed,

            Yes, you are right, changing the thermostat will not solve the problem.

            (A) Larry from TX mentioned using correct BMW coolant ( non corrosive ). My car has the
            "green" coolent, and so phosphate damage may already be present. I know many new
            vehicles use either red or yellow coolant ( Lincoln town cars have yellow ).

            (B) thermostat is new, clutch fan is working fine.

            (C) Water pump appears to be pumping normal.

            (D) Radiator ?? Pull off upper sensor and inspect for corrosion, eh? preasure test ?

            I appreciate your input. I am glad to have joined this chat group. This is some brief
            history: Two years ago, I bought an 83' 533i with 160k+ miles, (blk,brown leather)
            rebuilt 5spd transmission, top end rebuild, new timing chain, new injection module(correct
            name?), and many other goodies. Runs great, the car is a keeper. ( previous owner had to
            sell because of financial situation).

            I also own two 528e's.
            (1) The Saphire 528 is most likely a parts car at this point, the fuel tank leaks, and won't
            stay in 5th gear, did I mention the suspension ? It was my first 5 series, and what a
            difference from driving a 320i !!
            (2) Then my Bahama Beige 528e (auto), has some great qualities, mint leather interior,
            new front struts/rotors, new drag link, new tie rod ends, new alternator, new starter,
            alignment, it purrs...but then the transmission went out..yikes. Anyone around
            Minneapolis-St.Paul looking for a nice deal ?? Last I checked, rebuilt ZF 4 HP-22 trans was
            only $1,500.00 from SEARS IMPORTS.

            best regards , Otto



            --- In bmwe28@..., Ed MacVaugh <macvaugh@c...> wrote:
            >
            > Otto,
            >
            > I don't see why the "solution" of a different temperature thermostat
            > keeps showing up as an alternative.
            >
            > All that thermostat does is determine at what coolant temperature water
            > begins flowing through the radiator.
            >
            > On hot days, any working thermostat will open shortly after start-up and
            > remain open until long after shutdown, without regard to its rating.
            >
            > Find another place to spend your money, unless yours is stuck partially
            > or fully closed, leave it be.
            >
            > Ed
            >
            > bimmernutjob wrote:
            >
            > I plan to install either the 71, or 75 degree
            > > thermostat...it's a fix until the real
            > > culprit is revealed.
            >
          • bimmernutjob
            I found a replacement radiator for $189.26 from a parts house in california www2.maximumautoparts.com but first, I will try to determine quality of my
            Message 5 of 5 , Jun 20, 2006
              I found a replacement radiator for $189.26 from a parts house in california

              www2.maximumautoparts.com

              but first, I will try to determine quality of my radiator. (a) flow test ? (b) look for
              corrosion, eh ??

              otto





              --- In bmwe28@..., Ed MacVaugh <macvaugh@c...> wrote:
              >
              > Otto,
              >
              > I don't see why the "solution" of a different temperature thermostat
              > keeps showing up as an alternative.
              >
              > All that thermostat does is determine at what coolant temperature water
              > begins flowing through the radiator.
              >
              > On hot days, any working thermostat will open shortly after start-up and
              > remain open until long after shutdown, without regard to its rating.
              >
              > Find another place to spend your money, unless yours is stuck partially
              > or fully closed, leave it be.
              >
              > Ed
              >
              > bimmernutjob wrote:
              >
              > I plan to install either the 71, or 75 degree
              > > thermostat...it's a fix until the real
              > > culprit is revealed.
              >
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