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Re: [bmw e28] Re: 1986 528(e) ; m20 will not start

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  • Rick Mullaly
    nutty, I am trying to do what you suggest. I took off the plate held by 3 screws. I see 2 wires w/ plugs and 2 hoses. The larger hose, which I think comes
    Message 1 of 3 , Aug 23, 2007
      nutty,

      I am trying to do what you suggest. I took off the plate held by 3 screws. I see 2 wires w/ "plugs" and 2 hoses. The larger hose, which I think comes from the tank, is hooked to a pipe off the pump with a screw clamp. There is minimal rust on that pipe (10%). The smaller hose is clamped to a smaller pipe off the pump. That pipe has moderate rust on it (about 50% of it has rust on it), and so does the screw clamp attaching it to the hose (70%). One of the receptors for a "plug" is held down with 4 nuts. These nuts have moderate rust too (60%).
      I have had a reoccurring problem with this car where it turns over but won't "catch" to start, just keeps cranking. Already had a whole tune up.
      Do you think the rust I described on the pre-pump is enough corrosion to cause the starting problem?
      P.S. I removed the 6 bolts holding down the pre-pump as I wanted to check the bottom side. Although it was entirely disconnected, I was not able to lift it straight up and out. Is there a secret to getting it out? Is it this entire part that should be replaced? Thanks a lot. Rick


      ----- Original Message ----
      From: bimmernutjob <bimmernutjob@...>
      To: bmwe28@...
      Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 1:23:44 AM
      Subject: [bmw e28] Re: 1986 528(e) ; m20 will not start

      sachida

      I am on my 5th bmw, in my years of owning 320's, 528's, 533.....on two occassions I have
      had mechanics mis-diagnos fuel pump problems, claiming the in-line (preasure) pump
      was bad. In each case, it was the pre-pump (in tank) pump and not the in-line pump.
      If the pre-pump is going bad then the in-line pump must work harder, and might make
      more noise as a result. I suggest a diagnos of both pumps.
      The in-tank pump is easy enough to get at:

      1. in trunk (boot) under carpet locate access plate
      2. remove 3 plate screws
      3. inspect for rust on connections

      replacing this pump is not difficult ( if rust is minimal )
      shop around for a good price, autohausaz.com, steve haygood ( chat member ), etc...

      regards nutty

      --- In bmwe28@yahoogroups. co.uk, "Sachida Raman" <sraman@...> wrote:
      >
      > The manual says the transfer fuel pump is inside the fuel tank. Not sure
      > which one you are referring to?
      >
      >
      >
      > ____________ _________ _________ __
      >
      > From: bmwe28@yahoogroups. co.uk [mailto:bmwe28@yahoogroups. co.uk] On
      > Behalf Of Markie markd
      > Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 6:42 PM
      > To: bmwe28@yahoogroups. co.uk
      > Subject: Re: [bmw e28] 1986 528(e) ; m20 will not start
      >
      >
      >
      > its a joke, its just two hose clamps, take off the hoses, and a sensor
      > if i recall.
      > its right in front of the gas tank, dont confuse it for the fuel filter
      > however.
      > make sure just to put jackstands under the car and thats pretty much it.
      >
      > sachida_raman <sraman@... <mailto:sraman% 40la-law. org> > wrote:
      > Took the car on a 300 mile trip and "aired" it out on the highway. Got
      > back safetly but the next day, the car would not start. Had the dealer
      > run the diagnostics in case is was the main relay or sensors. They say
      > it is the external fuel pump. Where is the external pump and how
      > diffciult is it to repair yourself?
      >
      > Many thanks.
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > ------------ --------- --------- ---
      > Got a little couch potato?
      > Check out fun summer activities for kids.
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >
      >
      >
      >
      >
      > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
      >




      [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
    • bimmernutjob
      I may not have been clear enough: 1. there should be 6 or 8 (?) small stud protruding up from metal edging ( circular cut away where in-tank pump rests )
      Message 2 of 3 , Aug 25, 2007
        I may not have been clear enough:

        1. there should be 6 or 8 (?) small stud protruding up from metal
        edging ( circular cut away where in-tank pump rests ) these studs may
        get very rusty causing a difficult removal of pump.

        2. check electrical connectors, if you're lucky that might be the
        real culprit, and minimize your repair (?)

        3. In MY experience, the "in-tank" (pre-pump) either works or not,
        where as the "in-line" (BOSCH) pump may gradually create less and less
        preasure

        * finally, I am not an expert- good luck nutty




        --- In bmwe28@..., Rick Mullaly <ricmullaly@...> wrote:
        >
        > nutty,
        >
        > I am trying to do what you suggest. I took off the plate held by 3
        screws. I see 2 wires w/ "plugs" and 2 hoses. The larger hose, which
        I think comes from the tank, is hooked to a pipe off the pump with a
        screw clamp. There is minimal rust on that pipe (10%). The smaller
        hose is clamped to a smaller pipe off the pump. That pipe has
        moderate rust on it (about 50% of it has rust on it), and so does the
        screw clamp attaching it to the hose (70%). One of the receptors for
        a "plug" is held down with 4 nuts. These nuts have moderate rust too
        (60%).
        > I have had a reoccurring problem with this car where it turns over
        but won't "catch" to start, just keeps cranking. Already had a whole
        tune up.
        > Do you think the rust I described on the pre-pump is enough
        corrosion to cause the starting problem?
        > P.S. I removed the 6 bolts holding down the pre-pump as I wanted to
        check the bottom side. Although it was entirely disconnected, I was
        not able to lift it straight up and out. Is there a secret to getting
        it out? Is it this entire part that should be replaced? Thanks a
        lot. Rick
        >
        >
        > ----- Original Message ----
        > From: bimmernutjob <bimmernutjob@...>
        > To: bmwe28@...
        > Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 1:23:44 AM
        > Subject: [bmw e28] Re: 1986 528(e) ; m20 will not start
        >
        > sachida
        >
        > I am on my 5th bmw, in my years of owning 320's, 528's, 533.....on
        two occassions I have
        > had mechanics mis-diagnos fuel pump problems, claiming the in-line
        (preasure) pump
        > was bad. In each case, it was the pre-pump (in tank) pump and not
        the in-line pump.
        > If the pre-pump is going bad then the in-line pump must work harder,
        and might make
        > more noise as a result. I suggest a diagnos of both pumps.
        > The in-tank pump is easy enough to get at:
        >
        > 1. in trunk (boot) under carpet locate access plate
        > 2. remove 3 plate screws
        > 3. inspect for rust on connections
        >
        > replacing this pump is not difficult ( if rust is minimal )
        > shop around for a good price, autohausaz.com, steve haygood ( chat
        member ), etc...
        >
        > regards nutty
        >
        > --- In bmwe28@yahoogroups. co.uk, "Sachida Raman" <sraman@> wrote:
        > >
        > > The manual says the transfer fuel pump is inside the fuel tank.
        Not sure
        > > which one you are referring to?
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > ____________ _________ _________ __
        > >
        > > From: bmwe28@yahoogroups. co.uk [mailto:bmwe28@yahoogroups. co.uk] On
        > > Behalf Of Markie markd
        > > Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 6:42 PM
        > > To: bmwe28@yahoogroups. co.uk
        > > Subject: Re: [bmw e28] 1986 528(e) ; m20 will not start
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > its a joke, its just two hose clamps, take off the hoses, and a sensor
        > > if i recall.
        > > its right in front of the gas tank, dont confuse it for the fuel
        filter
        > > however.
        > > make sure just to put jackstands under the car and thats pretty
        much it.
        > >
        > > sachida_raman <sraman@ <mailto:sraman% 40la-law. org> > wrote:
        > > Took the car on a 300 mile trip and "aired" it out on the highway.
        Got
        > > back safetly but the next day, the car would not start. Had the
        dealer
        > > run the diagnostics in case is was the main relay or sensors. They
        say
        > > it is the external fuel pump. Where is the external pump and how
        > > diffciult is it to repair yourself?
        > >
        > > Many thanks.
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > ------------ --------- --------- ---
        > > Got a little couch potato?
        > > Check out fun summer activities for kids.
        > >
        > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > >
        > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        > >
        >
        >
        >
        >
        > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
        >
      • Sachida Raman
        Had mine done recently but now notice a constant whine from the pre-pump. Is this ominous? Does it mean that the screen is clogged? Thanks.
        Message 3 of 3 , Aug 27, 2007
          Had mine done recently but now notice a constant whine from the
          pre-pump. Is this ominous?

          Does it mean that the screen is clogged?



          Thanks.



          ________________________________

          From: bmwe28@... [mailto:bmwe28@...] On
          Behalf Of bimmernutjob
          Sent: Saturday, August 25, 2007 1:55 PM
          To: bmwe28@...
          Subject: [bmw e28] Re: 1986 528(e) ; m20 will not start



          I may not have been clear enough:

          1. there should be 6 or 8 (?) small stud protruding up from metal
          edging ( circular cut away where in-tank pump rests ) these studs may
          get very rusty causing a difficult removal of pump.

          2. check electrical connectors, if you're lucky that might be the
          real culprit, and minimize your repair (?)

          3. In MY experience, the "in-tank" (pre-pump) either works or not,
          where as the "in-line" (BOSCH) pump may gradually create less and less
          preasure

          * finally, I am not an expert- good luck nutty

          --- In bmwe28@... <mailto:bmwe28%40yahoogroups.co.uk> ,
          Rick Mullaly <ricmullaly@...> wrote:
          >
          > nutty,
          >
          > I am trying to do what you suggest. I took off the plate held by 3
          screws. I see 2 wires w/ "plugs" and 2 hoses. The larger hose, which
          I think comes from the tank, is hooked to a pipe off the pump with a
          screw clamp. There is minimal rust on that pipe (10%). The smaller
          hose is clamped to a smaller pipe off the pump. That pipe has
          moderate rust on it (about 50% of it has rust on it), and so does the
          screw clamp attaching it to the hose (70%). One of the receptors for
          a "plug" is held down with 4 nuts. These nuts have moderate rust too
          (60%).
          > I have had a reoccurring problem with this car where it turns over
          but won't "catch" to start, just keeps cranking. Already had a whole
          tune up.
          > Do you think the rust I described on the pre-pump is enough
          corrosion to cause the starting problem?
          > P.S. I removed the 6 bolts holding down the pre-pump as I wanted to
          check the bottom side. Although it was entirely disconnected, I was
          not able to lift it straight up and out. Is there a secret to getting
          it out? Is it this entire part that should be replaced? Thanks a
          lot. Rick
          >
          >
          > ----- Original Message ----
          > From: bimmernutjob <bimmernutjob@...>
          > To: bmwe28@... <mailto:bmwe28%40yahoogroups.co.uk>
          > Sent: Saturday, August 18, 2007 1:23:44 AM
          > Subject: [bmw e28] Re: 1986 528(e) ; m20 will not start
          >
          > sachida
          >
          > I am on my 5th bmw, in my years of owning 320's, 528's, 533.....on
          two occassions I have
          > had mechanics mis-diagnos fuel pump problems, claiming the in-line
          (preasure) pump
          > was bad. In each case, it was the pre-pump (in tank) pump and not
          the in-line pump.
          > If the pre-pump is going bad then the in-line pump must work harder,
          and might make
          > more noise as a result. I suggest a diagnos of both pumps.
          > The in-tank pump is easy enough to get at:
          >
          > 1. in trunk (boot) under carpet locate access plate
          > 2. remove 3 plate screws
          > 3. inspect for rust on connections
          >
          > replacing this pump is not difficult ( if rust is minimal )
          > shop around for a good price, autohausaz.com, steve haygood ( chat
          member ), etc...
          >
          > regards nutty
          >
          > --- In bmwe28@yahoogroups. co.uk, "Sachida Raman" <sraman@> wrote:
          > >
          > > The manual says the transfer fuel pump is inside the fuel tank.
          Not sure
          > > which one you are referring to?
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > ____________ _________ _________ __
          > >
          > > From: bmwe28@yahoogroups. co.uk [mailto:bmwe28@yahoogroups. co.uk]
          On
          > > Behalf Of Markie markd
          > > Sent: Thursday, August 16, 2007 6:42 PM
          > > To: bmwe28@yahoogroups. co.uk
          > > Subject: Re: [bmw e28] 1986 528(e) ; m20 will not start
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > its a joke, its just two hose clamps, take off the hoses, and a
          sensor
          > > if i recall.
          > > its right in front of the gas tank, dont confuse it for the fuel
          filter
          > > however.
          > > make sure just to put jackstands under the car and thats pretty
          much it.
          > >
          > > sachida_raman <sraman@ <mailto:sraman% 40la-law. org> > wrote:
          > > Took the car on a 300 mile trip and "aired" it out on the highway.
          Got
          > > back safetly but the next day, the car would not start. Had the
          dealer
          > > run the diagnostics in case is was the main relay or sensors. They
          say
          > > it is the external fuel pump. Where is the external pump and how
          > > diffciult is it to repair yourself?
          > >
          > > Many thanks.
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > ------------ --------- --------- ---
          > > Got a little couch potato?
          > > Check out fun summer activities for kids.
          > >
          > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > >
          > > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          > >
          >
          >
          >
          >
          > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
          >





          [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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