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Re: Alan Gibson Hornblocks

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  • hhpja
    Hi Frank The screws you talk about that are used to A) lock the sliders in position while setting up the chassis, and B) fix the Rolling roads in place. They
    Message 1 of 7 , Feb 14, 2008
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      Hi Frank

      The screws you talk about that are used to A) lock the sliders in
      position while setting up the chassis, and B) fix the Rolling roads
      in place. They can be replaced while in situation 'A' with M4 x 6 lg
      socket grub screws. This will leave a flush face. The old ones will
      of course need replacing when fitting the Rolling Roads. You will
      also need a smaller Allen key. I have the screws at 20p each if you
      are interested.

      Regards Phil
      --- In masterchassis@..., "lomas.frank"
      <lomas.frank@...> wrote:
      >
      > Hi Phil,
      >
      > Thanks for the suggestion. Unfortunately, when I tried it there
      wasnt
      > sufficient clearance between the mock axles and the slider locking
      > screws to allow the frame to sit flush against the jig.
      >
      > As I have the 4mm (EM) version my solution was to reverse the mock
      > axles and put the frame flush up against the back face of the jig
      > thereby preserving the wheelbases. This gives more room for the
      > soldering iron as there are no screws in the way. If I have to do
      > anything similar again I would put a false back between the jig and
      > frame to lend a bit more support. For each mock axle I'd drill
      unused
      > frame spacers from kits gone by to preserve the flexibility of the
      > masterchassis.
      >
      > In case anyone is interested the chassis Im building is from the SE
      > Finecast Flatiron kit.
      >
      > Regards (+thanks),
      >
      > Frank
      >
      > --- In masterchassis@..., "hhpja" <phil@> wrote:
      > >
      > > Hi Frank
      > >
      > > Alan Gibson makes/made 2 types of 4mm hornblocks and I am
      guessing
      > you
      > > are talking about the etched variety. These are the only ones on
      > the
      > > market, I know about, without a flange. I have used some, and yes
      I
      > > found them difficult as well. Difficult and time consuming to
      make,
      > and
      > > to use on the Master Chassis. Your idea is a good one but you
      have
      > to
      > > make the plates and clean up the chassis after use. Could you
      clamp
      > a
      > > plate using those small pegs?, or possible push the chassis right
      > up to
      > > the face of the jig to solder one side, then turn the chassis
      > upside
      > > down (so you don't have to change the settings) and then solder
      the
      > > other side.
      > >
      > > Has anyone else any thoughts?
      > >
      > > Regards Phil
      > > --- In masterchassis@..., "lomas.frank"
      > <lomas.frank@>
      > > wrote:
      > > >
      > > > Hi, my Masterchassis is making its debut and I wondered if
      anyone
      > has
      > > > any experience of using Alan Gibson hornblocks? With there only
      > being
      > > > the fence and no hornguide as such has anyone any suggestions
      > apart
      > > > from tacking a false bearing plate to the outside of the
      chassis
      > > frames?
      > > >
      > > > Thanks
      > > >
      > > > Frank
      > > >
      > >
      >
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