1322Re: [privateer20] Re:: New owner. Old boat.
- 7 Jan 13:36Hi OliverThanks for all the info.Just what I'm looking for.The hull has come up well using 80 grade orbital sander although most of the work was with a standard scraper.I think I'll smooth it all down with 240 grade and then go for the International Perfection with roller and tipping off.However, I may have to wait till the temperature rises sufficiently!Will start on the inside now (with the help of a heater).Best regards
TonyOn 7 January 2017 at 19:56, acapella13934@... [privateer20] <privateer20@...> wrote:
> Anyway, the self eroding type will come off on the trailer rollers and I doubt if I'll be going fast enough to do the hard type justice!For what it is worth, if you do decide to go for antifouling, my pattern of sailing is similar to yours except for a single prolonged cruise (four to six weeks) each summer.I applied white International Trilux in 2013, straight on top of largely unprepared previous unknown coatings. The only preparation was to remove what was actually flaking. This coating very gradually eroded over three seasons (and also became slightly discoloured), and I lightly touched up a handful of patches once during that period. There was still a significant thickness coating the whole of the area concerned when I removed it (together with all the previous coatings) this autumn..> I've been recommended two pack International Perfection paint but it looks a little tricky to apply properlyI have routinely used this on suitable substrates (which include GRP) for many years, and have never had any special difficulty in applying it by brush. However I have not (yet) tried the recommended technique for large areas, of applying it by roller and then "tipping it off" by brush; if one can enrol an assistant this may be a very quick and efficient means of getting a beautiful surface, and I intend to try this when I repaint the hull topsides for next season.The manufacturers do however caution that it should not be sprayed by amateurs, because of the carcinogenic(?) fumes; spraying it requires a proper spray booth, and the appropriate ventilation and breathing apparatus.Like any paint, its ability to flow out to hide brush marks and also its drying time are very dependent on temperature. The data sheet (obtainable from the manufacturer's website) advises that the product temperature should be not less than 15 deg C, and not more than 35 deg C, with the substrate not below 5 deg C, and not over 30 deg. C; also avoid applying in direct sunlight.Likewise wind will speed up drying time.I have occasionally found that a combination of a warm sunny day and a light wind can cause the paint to dry so rapidly that it becomes very difficult to maintain a wet edge, and thus it becomes difficult to eliminate all brushmarks,But all that is fairly mainstream for most paints. The combination of roller to apply the paint and brush to "tip off" the newly applied wet paint may be an effective solution to the difficulty of applying it to a large area in fast drying conditions.Also, like any two-pot paint it is important to adequately mix the two parts, and in the correct quantities, but in practice this is not onerous.I did experiment with one-pot polyurethanes back in the sixties and early seventies, but found them disappointing, and an unfortunate half-way house. They did not have the durability or hardness of the corresponding two-pot products, nor the flexibility of conventional products, and in consequence I abandoned using them. However that was several decades ago, and they may well have improved since then, but it should be noted that manufacturers who make all three types (such as International) are very clear about the respective benefits of each type; and for surfaces such as GRP they seem to still recommend their two-pot polyurethanes in preference to their other products.Hope this helps,Oliver
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