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1386Re:: Welcome Aboard

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  • olivershaw4229
    Mar 26, 2017
      >  I'm a bit worried, if I'll manage to deal with her, though. She's more of a hand full compared the my tiny yawl.
      > Especially if I'll be able to rigg her, as I've only had to deal with one foresail before, now I'm dealing with two.




      There is guidance on rigging her in then instructions already referenced in my earlier reply.     You will probably find that there is more rigging than you are used to,  particularly if you have the gaff rig version,  and even more so if you fit lazy jacks and if you also set up reefing lines and lead them back to the cockpit.    Personally I wouldn't be without those features,  because they are so immensely useful,   but most Privateers don't have them.   It may be good advice to start with your rig as simple as possible,  until you are fully familiar with it,  and fully understand what each item does;    then add the refinements at your leisure.

      As with any boat,  do be aware of the need for plenty of luff tension on the two headsails;   her performance to windward is one of her weak points at the best of times,  but luff tension in the headsails makes a significant difference.

      Your reference to sanding and varnishing "all the wooden parts" is not totally clear,  but if that refers to wooden spars this would imply that you have the gaff rig version (traditional four-sided mainsail,  with wooden mast and boom and gaff).   That is an immensely flexible rig,  and looks superb,  and can be a great joy to sail,  but there are one or two tips to rigging it correctly.

      When you bend the sail onto the boom and also the gaff apply sufficient tension (along the length of the boom or gaff) to keep the sail nice and taut;   you don't not need to use any special techniques,  and as tight as you can pull it by hand is plenty,  but don't allow any visible slackness,  or any visible wrinkles in the sail perpendicular to the boom or gaff.    Then,  separately,  taking a lashing through the cringle of the sail and right around  the boom or gaff,  for a few turns,  to prevent that corner of the sail pulling outwards away from the spar.

      When you hoist the sail,   keep the gaff horizontal or slightly above horizontal as you hoist,  and haul on the throat halliard to hoist it until the luff of the sail is absolutely as tight as you can get it,  then cleat off that halliard in such a way that it won't slip,  even slightly.    My boat has the benefit of rope clutches,  but these are expensive,  and jam cleats or even ordinary horn cleats are fine.

      Then raise the gaff by hauling on the peak halliard until the sail sets just nicely.   With the topping lift eased off and the sail sheeted and drawing it should set without creases.    If you have diagonal creases from the throat (upper corner by the mast,  where the sail makes a V with the mast) to the clew (at the outer end of the boom) the peak halliard needs to be sweated up tighter until the crease disappears.    If you have creases along the other diagonal,  from the tack (the corner near the gooseneck) to the peak (the highest corner of the sail) the peak halliard is slightly too tight,  so ease it until the creases disappear;   however don't worry if a crease in this direction is only mild and appears only in very light wind,  as you can then expect the crease to disappear when the wind strengthens.

      Don't regard the peak halliard as set for all time once the sail is up and drawing;    I usually find that I want to make very slight adjustments as I move from one point of sailing to another,  in order to get the sail setting at its best,  and indeed that is part of the fun of gaff rig.

      You may find (I certainly did) that you want to replace the original "single whip" throat and peak halliards with a 2:1 purchase in both cases.




      Oliver

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