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1401Re:: New owner. Old boat.

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  • olivershaw4229
    May 8, 2017
      Agreed you may well not need antifouling.   I have the impression that neither do I,  so for the first time since I bought the boat I am trying without this year,  and we will see how we get on.    I am cautiously optimistic.



      > I was thinking of using International Perfection but at nearly £60 a litre, I started looking around at other similar products.

      Surely more than that;   the gloss is over £51 for a 750 mL tin,  although the undercoat is around £41 and the varnish £45.   (Priced online at Force 4,  but I presume that other outlets are similar.)

      But are these in fact similar products?    They appear not to be  ...

      The forum to which the link takes us is somewhat confusing,  as there is a reference to (optionally?) using a hardener,  but when I do a search on the names of the two products they both appear from their respective manufacturers' websites to be one-pot products,  not two-pot,  and neither manufacturer makes any mention of a hardener in the product details.

      Additionally the Rustoleum product is specifically recommended for use above the waterline.    And the tractor paint makes no mention of being suitable for marine use;   it may perhaps be suitable,  but the manufacturer doesn't make that claim.

      Thus neither product appears to be similar to Perfection.

      However bear in mind that on a previously painted surface you must not apply a two-pot paint on top of an existing one-pot finish.   If you don't know what the existing finish is,  either it has to all come off or you are restricted to using one-pot products;   so this may well limit your choice anyway.

      Having said that,  I went for Perfection on the hull of my own boat because I felt that a two-pot polyurethane was the best possible paint for the job,   and I accepted the lengthy and back-breaking job of removing all the existing coatings.   Although the cost of materials is very significant it is nothing like the value of my time,  and it is also nothing like either the value of the boat or the (somewhat larger) sum that I have already spent on the boat in other ways by way of getting her as I want her.   So I decided not to spoil the ship for a ha'pworth of tar,  so to speak.

      I did the job above the waterline a few years ago,  and this year I did part of the job below the waterline (leaving the inboard region below the waterline for another major effort next year).   At the same time,  I also sanded down the Perfection above the waterline and recoated it.  

      However I am far from pleased with the surface that I have achieved above the waterline.    The difficulty seems to be that when working outdoors it proved impossible to find a day (at the time of year when I was doing the job,  April) when there was the right combination of a suitable temperature and little wind.   For the first attempt at a top coat the temperature wasn't high enough,  so it didn't flow out satisfactorily.   Knowing that I had found this problem when I did the job previously some years ago,  this time I tried the method recommended by the manufacturer,  of using a roller to apply the paint and a brush just to tip the paint off.  That may be a good method,  but it didn't work for me,  perhaps due to unfamiliarity;   I found it too difficult to control the thickness of the paint film.

      So I reluctantly sanded it down flat and tried again,  only to find on the second occasion (better temperature,  but too much wind) that it was drying too rapidly for me to be able to maintain a wet edge.  

      The end result will have to do for this time round,  but I found myself wondering whether it was just unfortunate environmental conditions or whether I am losing my touch!    When I next do the job I shall consider either hiring indoor space or contenting myself with merely doing the preparation myself,  and then taking the boat to a professional who can spray the final coat.

      For the topsides I did not want the enormous labour of stripping off all the previous owners' paints,  so I simply sanded everything smooth,  but as a result I couldn't safely use a two-pot product on this surface.    I had intended using Toplac,  but the colour I wanted wasn't listed,  so in the end I went for Epifanes Mono-urethane.   Ironically,  the colour does not accurately match their colour card,   and for the colour that it actually turns out to be I could possibly have used Toplac;   but apart from that detail I am very pleased with the result,  at least thus far.    It is easy to apply,  and flows out beautifully easily.   

      The Epifanes Mono-urethane appears to be much easier to apply than is Perfection,  and much less sensitive to the environmental conditions;    but I am aware that this may be misleading,  as I am not applying it to anything like the same area,  so the difficulty in maintaining a wet edge is inherently not as great because of the different job,  so it might be a mistake to associate the difference in application with the different types of paint.   Certainly I have in the past used Perfection very happily on dinghies,  but there again the area involved was much smaller.   

      But,  like all one-pot polyurethanes,  the Epifanes product is a halfway house in terms of its properties;  I would expect it to be harder and more durable than conventional yacht paints (e.g. Toplac or Epifanes Yacht Enamel),  but not quite as hard or as durable as two-pot polyurethanes (such as Perfection).   The price also falls somewhat the two types.



      Oliver



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